cabrales

franklanguage -- Did you carry your own chopsticks because you liked them, or because they were easier to use? When I visited the Japanese store "Sanrio" (with Hello Kitty, etc.; e.g., NY and SF), it usually had bright-colored little plastic chopsticks with cartoon characters on them. Sometimes, they were packaged with a matching spoon in a case featuring the same character. If you wanted to replace your chopsticks, that might be a good place to start looking. http://www.sanrio.com/ (store locator; online store merchandise does not include chopsticks)

stellabella -- When you have a chance, please consider discussing how you tried to cook before your husband aided you. If you did not rely on recipes, how would you go about formulating and preparing a dish? For example, did products inspire you, so that you built your dishes around them and added "reasonable" seasoning and accompaniments? On reading about food, I found it quite revelatory at key points in my relationship with food. My interest is particularly strong for French cuisine, and that made it easier to delve into all sorts of books in that area. I started buying out-of-print books in French on French cuisine and the history of restaurants in France. If I approach learning to cook using recipes, I'd have plenty with which to work. However, classical French techniques appear difficult to learn.

Steve Klc -- Thanks for the update. If you can recollect, what Herme pastries (and approximately how many pastries) were available? On the macarons, some of the flavors sound different from at least what is currently available at Herme's in Paris. For example, there is no straight vanilla offering in Paris -- just olive oil coupled with vanilla. Also, no rasberry macaron there. On how the Wegmans chocolates are being produced and marketed, see the following article excerpts: -- "Recently [the Wegmans Herme chocolate ] were heralded in a Smart Money magazine segment 'What Chocolate Makes The Perfect Valentine's Day Gift?' Gramercy Tavern Pastry Chef Claudia Fleming hailed them as 'the greatest chocolates I have ever tasted.' Priced at $36 a pound, they are **handmade in Rochester, N.Y., by one of Herme's assistants who moved from France to make them.**" (The Morning Call, Allentown, February 6, 2002). -- "Wegmans Food Market, 6789 East Genesee St., DeWitt. (315) 446-7490. . . . Plus, they have an upscale bakery done by a man as a consultant, Pierre Herme, a famous Frenchman who makes magnificent tarts. Our two favorites are lemon and chocolate bombe." (The Times Union, Albany, NY, March 28, 2001; describing one of the favorite food shops of Chef George Schroeter of the River Street Cafe, Troy). Steve Klc -- Could this be another branch with Herme pastries? -- "Pierre Herme, the renowned Paris patissier, uses French butter for the brioche, croissants and puff pastry he created for Wegman's Supermarkets in *Bridgewater* and Princeton, N.J." (NYT, January 17, 2001) Note that, in a blind taste test of four luxury chocolates, Wegmans' Herme line was ranked second to Martine's, NY. (Consumer Reports' February 2002 report had also placed Martine's first in the boxed chocolates category). The other chocolates evaluated were la Maison du Chocolat and Godiva's. Here's the testing procedure used, including the "melting on the tongue" step you discussed: "Between the categories of aroma, appearance and flavor, they cleansed their palates with water. . . . First, they eyed the chocolates . . . Time for some water. Next, the tasters carefully sniffed their chocolates . . . . More water. Finally, they painstakingly allowed little bits of the chocolates to *melt and work their magic on their tongues*, enrobing their senses with a blast of flavor, then leaving them with the lingering memory of the chocolatiers' artistry and the need for more." (The Morning Call, Allentown, February 6, 2002).

franklanguage -- I, and surely other members, appreciate what you just shared with us. I'm gratified you felt comfortable enough with our community to have done so. I'd have to say that I've never thought about the prospect of a brain injury to me (who would, before it unhappily materialized?). I'm sure you know (and I don't say this because I feel I am in a position to say anything in particular) that, from your activity on the board, I would not have imagined that you had had any difficulties to overcome. Perhaps, in the beginning, you tried simple recipes and success with them helped bolster confidence? When you have a chance, please consider discussing what it was like to move from recipes where the steps were sequential, to those where different things had to be done to different ingredients around the same time. Also, which TV shows did you find helpful, and did you record them to aid execution of dishes?

As groups of eGulleteers get together for meals, I am finding interesting the descriptions of the same meal as experienced by different members. Recent examples inhere not only in this thread, but also in "La Trompette" under "United Kingdom & Ireland" and "Unofficial New York Dinner" under "New York". (The threads might also speak a bit to the posting styles of participating members.)

I'd be interested in knowing how members learned to cook basic items. Was knowledge gained through watching relatives in the kitchen, receiving instruction from professionals or friends, reviewing cookbooks (if so, which primary ones), and/or other avenues? As I have mentioned elsewhere, I have no cooking capabilities -- sad, but true. When I have more time later this year, I *may* initiate attempts to prepare very simple items.

Wilfrid -- I put some thought to your question, in the context of London-area restaurants and could not come up with any candidates. I reviewed the indicative online menus for The Connaught (post-M. Bourdain, sic), The Ritz, London (mentioned "classical French", but menu did not have unduly strong Escoffier overtones to me) and Waterside Inn (thinking that the Cecile Rothschild connection to Roux might have left some vestiges of traditional cuisine), but was not satisfied the menus were sufficiently traditional. I have not taken in an Escoffier-type French meal in London or France that I can remember. If you are interested in Tour d'Argent or Taillevent, I could post menus over the weekend and/or describe the two-service blood duck at the former. Let me know.

I would be interested in the responses to Wilfrid's questions as well, as I have never visited that restaurant. If a room is unavailable in the hotel portion, what other hotel options are there close by?

Simon & Tony -- I had dinner at Viet Ho tonight. The meal was quick (intentionally so), and reasonably priced. Simon was on point with respect to his mixed assessment. (1) Chicken "Bun" Rice vermicelli with spicy soup (Pounds 3.50 for small, 4.50 for large; alternatively available with beef, prawns or tofu) -- The chicken pieces in this soup were nicely prepared; smooth, not in any way overcooked (including by reason of immersion in the soup) and with a bit of skin in the case of some pieces. I liked the coriander and spring onion in the soup. However, the noodles were average and the soup component of the dish was weak. The soup base was a bit undeveloped, and the only reason that it could be called "spicy" (as indicated on the menu) was the utilization of chilli oil as a film on top of the clear bouillon. Perhaps without the oil, the dish would have been a "pho". (2) "Chao Tom" -- Prawns with sugar cane, noodles with rice vermicelli (5.75) -- This dish was prepared as one would expect it to be, and there were stretches of shrimp along two sugar cane rods. I had Vietnamese iced coffee, which contained a lot of condensed milk and was quite dense (even with the effects of melting ice). I had wanted to order the banana fritters with ice cream (2.50), but didn't have room. The place was full, with seating (particularly for groups of less than 4) likely to be along almost "communal" tables without necessarily space between tables. While inexpensively furnished, this restaurant appeared cleaner than most Vietnamese restaurants I have visited. Note there was background music. Selected, more unusual (for me) menu items included: -- Tilapia Fish (available stewed; with pancake and a salad containing pineapple ?; fried in fish sauce with mango; fried in tomato sauce with vegetables) Pounds 5.50-7.70 (I am generally reluctant to order fish at Vietnamese restaurants, though) -- Drunken fish (unspecified fish prepared in white wine sauce with Asian "cloud ear" mushrooms) 6.70

I received some input from a friend who lives in Hong Kong. He indicated Alibi is a "pick up" place, and does not appear to offer good food. He recommended TECA, which apparently imports chicken from France (unclear whether of Bresse origin). I have no knowledge about that restaurant.

It's hard to make an educated guess without having been there, but let me try with a steamed or baked custard on top of which the eggs are place. Was this is a cup or bowl capable of standing some heat. Bux -- Apologies my initial description was not sufficiently accurate. The egg "layer" at the bottom appeared to be the same color and general flavor (although not the same texture) as the scrambled eggs, and was actually linked to the top "normal" part of the eggs. An uninformed guess, given my lack of any cooking skills: The cooking technique used somehow permitted the egg mixture used for both to first "set" or "settle" into the bottom layer. Perhaps the general scrambled egg parts were cooked separately and simultaneously, to be placed directly onto the bottom layer when both were hot so that they bound to each other? It's highly unclear to me. Perhaps Robert or Steve might have more informed guesses.

Steve -- Despite the loss of its only Michelin star this year, La Mere Brazier hasn't stumbled with respect to its chicken in half-mourning dish. Admittedly, dishes other than chicken did not taste particularly good, but I appreciated the poularde there very much. Click here.

Wilfrid -- If you'd like, please consider discussing why old-fashioned dishes appeal to you. On being hungry, the portions were substantial. Even the egg appetizer felt quite substantial, even though it looked relatively small in the cocotte. The entree was filling too. (This could be the most direct example of my assessments potentially affecting another member's choice of restaurant, in the event you do decide to go to Embassy. I'm not sure how I feel about it, given your valuable, limited time in London.) :confused: I'm off to Viet Hoa for dinner, and will report back in the thread in which Simon and Tony mentioned this restaurant.

An August 10, 2000 article in the NYT indicates that *Taruichi*, a restaurant in Tokyo (Shinjuku district) also serves whale meat. http://www2.gol.com/users/coynerhm/japan_f...ng_on_whale.htm ("There were 36 choices in all, including fried whale, raw whale, whale bacon, whale heart, whale testicle, whale kidney, and even ice cream made from the whale's fat.")

Wilfrid -- It's here under the "Go to Embassy" thread in this forum. You know I'd try not to be delinquent with respect to the most important part -- the cuisine, especially since you are deciding among restaurants.

That's my favorite food film as well, because of the sumptuousness of the colors and the depiction of the repeated visits to the same restaurant.

Mark -- If you recollect, can you provide some background on Xaviers' lunch offering?

A related, but distinct, question is whether members "save the best parts of the dish 'till last", which has historically been my general practice (not without exceptions, though). This "saving" mentality can sometimes be a point of sensitivity for a slow-eater because the best parts of the dish might be sensitive to temperature changes over time. For example, for turbot, I have previously mentioned on the board my liking for the gelatinous, tender meat between the bones in certain pieces. If I see that, I now take it early on so as to avoid it getting cold. Same thing for the fattiest areas bordering certain steak cuts or pork chops. (Note I do not eat that slowly, just slightly more slowly than what I perceive to be the norm.) I often have a problem with certain sauces kind of "gel-ing" up by the time I'm approaching finishing a dish. Or there might be a veneer of something beginning to emerge near the top of the sauce. I dislike this, and I also utilize a lot of sauce and generally need all the sauce placed on the plate. I don't think there's any way to avoid the described effect, though.

Jinmyo -- If you are uncertain whether a particular restaurant would have acceptable chopsticks, would you have to carry around your own pair a lot of the time? Do you have a case, or do you use a Ziploc or other plastic bag to house them?

Are members aware of where the described foie gras and salmon lollipops might be available in Manhattan?

Lack of familiarity with chopsticks might account for some differences in speed among diners. Also, the type of chopstick offered might not be irrelevant. Some of my dining companions who are comfortable with "traditional", long chopsticks might have difficulties with the disposable wood versions furnished by certain Japanese restaurants, and vice versa. I also notice varying levels of utilization of sauce spoons when they are set on the table. The sauce spoon tends to help with dining speed because (1) unlike a fork, it doesn't have open areas where small bits of food might fall through, (2) it is appropriate for gathering sauce, and (3) its typically larger surface area relative to a fork helps scoop up more food. I wonder whether manual dexterity, with respect to the hand that is not dominant for a diner, might also be relevant. I am comfortable holding all sorts of utensils in my left hand (I'm right-handed). Sometimes I notice people first cutting up meat with the knife in the right hand and the fork in the left, and then switching the fork to the right hand to bring portions into their mouth. While switching utensils between hands does not seem to be time-consuming each time, one could imagine it affecting dining speed a bit in the aggregate. The cutting up of many pieces before eating any of them might also affect the temperature at which food is taken in (?). I often hold the knife and fork (or at least one of them) in my hands while I am chewing (in a lowered position close to the plate, so the utensils remain inconspicuous). Otherwise, I would have to criss-cross them in the manner previously described on the board, and that would be time-consuming if repeatedly done for one dish.

Andy -- The restaurant was less than 50% full last night, although the bar area adjacent to the restaurant (not those in the club area) was more packed. Perhaps the fact that it was a Wednesday night helped the service. There were indeed a lot of people dressed in black greeting guests, in addition to the bouncer-types outside. The atmospherics of the place would ordinarily suggest a certain lack of seriousness gastronomically (e.g., ropes to presumably control the non-existent crowds outside the restaurant/club shared entryway), although the food was quite good.

Adam -- Here are tidbits of information on the historical role of whale consumpation in Japan, consistent with BON's helpful input: "Whale meat was an important source of protein in an impoverished Japan after World War Two . . . ." (Global News Wire, Business Recorder, April 3, 2002) "'Whale meat has been part of the Japanese diet for centuries as the gift from the sea,' Japan Whaling Association President Keiichi Nakajima said. 'I would like many young people to taste it and learn more about our cultural heritage.'" (AP Online, April 9, 2002) "After the ravages of the Second World War, many impoverished Japanese ate whale meat and munched on whale bacon sold by street vendors because it was cheap and nourishing. The Japanese ate 220,000 tons of whale meat in 1962, but under the IWC ban the total fell to less than 3,000 tons last year." (Edmonton Journal, September 2, 2000) "While Japan's whaling history may not be as long as Norway's, it is no less culturally significant to the current residents of coastal villages who have been affected by the moratorium on whaling. Japan's whaling culture has been in existence for centuries." (Georgetown International Environmental Law Review, Fall 2000) Advocacy piece: "Many of the arguments used to support a return to commercial whaling are specious or unsubstantiated, much of the cultural importance concocted. While there is strong evidence whale hunting has played a part in Japanese culture for centuries, it was during times of scarcity in the run-up to and during World War II that whale eating became widespread. For most Japanese who have eaten it regularly, it was as a school lunch during the war. Equally, the whaling industry played a significant part in Australia's history, but that in itself is not an argument for continued hunting when a resource has been virtually eliminated." (Australian Financial Review, August 27, 2001) "At least part of Japan's wish to go whaling is cultural, reflecting a general aversion to change, acknowledges [Cassandra] Phillips [of the World Wide Fund for Nature] . . . . Japan must also fear that if it gives in on whaling it could be setting itself up for an endless list of similar demands on one of the world's biggest fish-eating nations. Tuna, without which no sushi dinner is complete, has already become a target." Toronto Star, September 2, 2000. The excerpts below relate to certain existing culture-based justifications for allowing select groups to engage in whaling: -- "One of the most controversial exceptions to the whaling moratorium was granted to the Inuit people in the Arctic Circle. While few doubted that the Inuits are aboriginal, the exception is unpopular because the Inuit are allowed to hunt bowhead whales, a species that is more endangered than most. . . . This exception, made upon the United States' urging . . . . More recently, the Makah Indians in Washington state have resumed hunting gray whales. Like the Inuits, the Makah's whaling practices date back hundreds and even thousands of years by some accounts. . . . Whaling was so important to the Makah that they are the only Native American group to reserve the right to whale in a treaty [with the US]." (Georgetown International Environmental Law Review, Fall 2000) Other Information: -- Another restaurant famous for whale meat is Tomoko Takahashi's *Gonso Kujiraya in Tokyo*. The April 7, 2002 edition of the Sunday Times (London) indicates that whale dishes offered there include: sashimi, deep frying in batter, steak (typically accompanied by tomato and lettuce), soup, and skin. -- Since 1986, the International Whaling Commission has imposed a ban on commercial whaling, although exceptions for "scientific research"-motivated whaling (which Japan does conduct) are in place. Norway does not attempt to cloak its whale hunting under this exception. The upcoming annual IWC meeting at the Japanese town of Shimonoseki on May 20-24 is expected to be the venue for Japan and Norway to continue their push for the lifting of the commercial whaling ban. The IWF's scientific committe meets April 27-May 9. -- Japan recently started hauling in "sei whales", which are an endangered species, for "scientific research" purposes. -- Ironically, Japan has at times argued that whales are responsible for depletion of fish stock. In a recent statement, the World Wildlife Foundation indicated that "human overfishing and poor fisheries management, in addition to climate change and other environmental factors, are the reason for fish shortages . . . ." Other arguments made by Japan (no evaluations of validity by me, of course) include: (1) Minke whales have substantial populations. (2) The ban is an expression of "cultural imperialism" by various Western nations. (3) Improvements in harpoon technology are reducing the concerns with respect to animal welfare.

It's not just the pricing though. If Bouley is cooking to the extent of his demonstrated capabilities from Duane St, his cuisine has lyricism and moderation that I subjectively have not found anywhere else in NY. (Note I have not eaten at the restaurant since the chef's reimmersion into his work).

Simon & Tony -- I unsuccessfully sought to obtain the address of The Viet Ho through directory assistance. Where is this restaurant located?