cabrales

Robert -- Below is a rough translation of the G-M commentary on the restaurant last year: "The layout does not change: elegant tables framing the edge of salads and herbs inside a soup; a solemn team (which softens according to its perception of the client); the pass with porcelain [items underneath the bell?]. This almost robotic sequence could prove to be tiresome. It isn't that way, simply because Jacques Thorel's [culinary] display is much more distracting than a music class -- an appropriate compote of chorizo with red mullet; bass with very thin skin supported by the rustic flavor of an eel marinade; perfect lobster almost overshadowed by the accompanying passionate association of arichokes and rhubarb; pigonneau (more at ease on the apricot marmelade than the langoustines that overlap with it); marvellously tender lamb from Languiole. And we don't forget the calvary of amuse-bouche (special mention for the "bernique"? tartare), nor the wisely assembled desserts (blanc-manger made from milk and oats, with vanilla creme, wild strawberries and a hibiscus gelee; beaten milk (?) with elder tree wine). All of this capital kitchen merits one extra point. Our only reseration is that, ironically, the immense wine list (vertical and breathtaking, spanning France and the world . . .): one is intoxicated before being able to choose, seized by a form of the Stendhal syndrome, and one appreciates less the efforts of a slightly strict female sommeliere. Excellent menu at 210 FF [not euros] which renders rare pleasure accessible." stephen wall -- Do you have any recollections relating to the wine list?

Here's how the sorrel sauce is described in Jean and Pierre Troisgros' book "The Nouvelle Cuisine" (Papermac, first published 1982). For four people, the ingredients are listed to be: 80 g fresh sorrel, 2 shallots (not included in the current Troisgros website's recipe), 500 ml "fish fumet" (there is a separate recipe for this stock that I will not include), 4 tablespoons dry white wine (e.g., Sancerre), 2 tablespoons white Vermouth, 400 ml double cream, 40 g butter, lemon juice (from 1/2 lemon), salt and pepper. Paraphrasing the instructions: The sorrel should first be trimmed and washed. Large leaves should be rendered smaller. The shallots should be finely chopped. Utilize a saute pan for the fish stock, white wine, Vermouth and shallots. Put the pan over the heat until there results an almost glaze-like "glistening syrup". Then, following the addition of the cream, allow the mixture to boil until there is a slight thickening. Incorporate the sorrel and, after about 25 seconds, remove the pan from the heat and include small pieces of butter. During this stage, the pan should be shaken about to allow the sauce to emulsify (no whisk). Finally, add lemon juice, salt and pepper. The book lists indicative simple menus, and suggested "advanced menus", for readers. The advanced menus section includes the following: Salad of Hen Pheasants Troisgros Salmon Escalopes with Sorrel Peaches and Almonds in Beaujolais

In very rare circumstances, a chef could have a "philosophy" (used in a less stringent sense of the term) that could be articulated without words. As an example, the philosophy could be that vegetables are to be respected as a primary, if not the primary, ingredient in a meal.

Tony -- You're right that the caviar at Pounds 98 is expensive, but it's beluga and it depends on how much of it one receives. (Not that I would order it, of course) I wonder about the turnover of an item like that, though, at many restaurants. On lobster, I might have considered ordering the entrees, had the preparation methods been a bit more up to date. I did ask about how much of a lobster was generally utilized in the lobster thermidor appetizer -- 1/4 -- and pondered about ordering it before succumbing to the egg appetizer. Part of the reason Embassy may be underrated is that one gets the impression many of its customers go there for the atmosphere, the proximity to the club downstairs, the well-dressed people, etc. That tends to detract from a restaurant being viewed as "serious", although in Embassy's case the food that I chose at least was quite good.

Robert's assessment of Maximin is comparable to my own. Below is supplemental detail on the meal: -- The amuse described by Robert was unconventionally heavy to begin the meal. It was also an unusual, almost black color on the outside, and sat amidst a dark gelee. -- Very thin stalks of asparagus were laced into the scrambled eggs in a nice way. It had been a while since I last had had asparagus with stems this thin, and their taste was, to me, somewhere between "regular"-sized green asparagus and certain types of tender haricots or stalky beans. As Steve and Susan observed, the scrambled eggs were made more interesting by the bottom thereof, which consisted of a smoother layer of egg instead of having the expected texture of scrambled egg. The group speculated about how this effect had been achieved. -- Next, the scallops dish, which, despite its name, was not presented with a salad in the commonly-understood sense. The texture of the scallops was not as firm as it should have been, and a bit of freshness was indeed missing. In addition, the attached pieces of "coraile" had a certain unnaturalness to them. Diced tomatoes were utilized in the dish, as were small sections of orange which did not match the remainder of the dish. However, the use of thyme and little purple flowers (likely thyme blossoms) was helpful to the dish. Steve P noted that a review of the menus suggested Maximin was utilizing the same ingredient in multiple dishes and otherwise taking steps to run his business. (It was hard to gauge how quiet the restaurant tends to be on other than a Saturday night. The capacity of the place was likely under 40 persons, and it was full on the Saturday night we visited.) -- The duckling (it was fairly large) was presented in two services. The aiguillettes were noticeably overcooked, as Robert noted. There was a large portion for each of us, given Mde Maximin's insistence that we order two ducklings. The second service of duck (the thighs, accompanied by a side salad) was fattier and better. -- We declined cheese because the cheese plate looked literally very dreary. It was evident that the aging and quality of the 3-5 challenged specimens were wanting. A table adjacent to us suffered the fate of apparently receiving pieces of cheese placed before them, and not having even been asked for the diners' choices. The large apple tart I had tasted fine. We were offered mandarin or clementine sorbet, which did not taste home-made or particularly refined. Robert's sable came with some hot little pastry packets containing whole rasberries inside. The mignardises included sugared kumquat and a candied green grape. -- As Robert described, the wine service was poor. Robert and Steve agreed that the wine list was very thin, and also overpriced. The "best" wine the sommelier could offer were some young Batard-Montrachets and Corton Charlemagnes at inflated prices. When Steve asked why a better selection was lacking, the sommelier proffered the excuse that most French wine is exported and it is difficult to secure allocations in France! -- Mde Maximin was inflexible and non-client-oriented. She had a way of making her dissatisfaction with many of our suggestions clear -- her facial expressions didn't require much interpretation! Admittedly, we did have a few questions, but her responses were rather abrupt and dismissive. -- At Maximin, the degustation menu prices appeared more reasonable than the a la carte prices. For example, the brouillade was in the price range Robert described, but a multiple-course tasting menu could begin ar around 60 euros or less, depending on the number of dishes included. -- The decor is mixed. The main dining room contained various artworks and sculptures, and seemed quite "busy" decor-wise. Prominent were two large metallic expanses sculpted by Arman (sic). One features hundreds of metallic spoons amassed; the other hundreds of forks. These sculptures are recognizable because Arman's much more 3D and taller sculpture in Roanne opposite the Troisgros facility also features utensils. The relatively modern works of Arman were combined with more traditional decorations. Part of dining out is acceptance that a restaurant's performance on any given night may not be what one would have hoped, and that many factors can affect the quality offered to diners. Our party did enjoy the evening, albeit for reasons other than Maximin's cuisine. In the end, this meal put in a little reminder that, notwithstanding my emphasis on cuisine in evaluating a restaurant meal, it is dining companions that are key at times. And it was through eGullet that our group came together.

FriedaL -- Thanks for your reply. You mentioned marrons; does your village also have chateigne trees, and which chestnut do you prefer? (I like, among other things, marrons glacees, including the mass produced ones one can find at Fauchon, and chestnuts in some game dishes.)

Following discussion between Wilfrid and magnolia regarding Embassy in the "New London Restaurants" thread in this forum, I made my way to Garry Hollihead's Embassy. The food there is good, despite the distraction of arguably bouncers at the entryway and a fashion-conscious crowd (not surprising, given the club downstairs). Diners and persons at the large bar area "dressed to impress". Embassy is a place Wilfrid could consider, although the prices are not as appealing as La Trompette's. The food was at the level of Corrigan the night before, in my mind, and more consistent (although also heavier -- but that may have been attributable to the dishes I chose at Embassy). As mentioned in certain published reviews, the menu has its idiosyncracies and includes many Escoffier-era or "aged" dishes (e.g., Wellington preparation, albeit offered with venison instead of beef; Rossini style preparations; Lobster thermidor), although I would imagine they would be relatively well-executed. Note that the pork entree I had was fairly thorough in including many different preparations of the item. Cocotte eggs Chasseur, corn-fed chicken livers, mushrooms, madeira jus (7.75) Roast and confit pork, boudin, red cabbage choucroute (17.25) Frosted champagne, pear, blackcurrant sorbet (6.50) Glass of Duval-Leroy, Fleur de Champagne Brut (7.00) Glass of White Burgundy, Domaine de Brully 2000 (5.50) The dinner began well with a rich appetizer served in a little white cocotte. The first sensation is one of the medium-consistency, cream-based, rich sauce (Madeira elements are there as well). Replete with diced chives, this sauce was good, and stood beside nice mushrooms (chanterelles and others). Near the bottom of the cocotte container and suspended in the rich sauce were wisps of egg white, cooked but not unduly so. The egg white elements really permitted the taste of the white to be sampled, amidst the sauce. There was a limited amount of yolk, separate from the white. The chicken liver was appropriate to this appetizer too. The pork entree provided a meaningful sampling of that meat in its different forms. Even though I generally dislike complexity in a dish, this dish was good. First, a tasty stubby small sauage, pan-fried. The body of the sausage was made from chicken (a nice touch), pork, foie gras and little apple elements. It was bolstered by generous pockets of boudin noir (blood sausage) included inside the white-colored overall sausage. Second, 3 strips of crackling -- a bit dry, but not bad. Third, a small piece of pork belly that was appropriately flavorful. It had somewhat crispy, but emolient, skin and was a helpful part of the overall dish. It sat on top of a circular-shaped bit of potato that was undercooked (deliberately) and a bit salty (helpful, as the dish was slightly sweet due to saucing). Fourth, a small medallion of pork that was appropriately executed and that had pan-fried apple accompaniments. The texture of this part of the pork was a bit "dense" (not in a good way), but that aspect not particularly prominent. The sauce for all of these pork items was an appropriately intense, slightly sweet, reduction. It contained a slight hint of lemon peel. The choucroute (cabbage) tempered the sweetness. A small square of walnut chocolate brownie was served before dessert. The dessert was good. A circular-shaped block of crushed champagne ice was surrounded by a gentle pear puree. The alcohol content and refreshing aspects of champagne lent themselves to a light, appealing dessert. Hidden inside the crushed ice was a small piece of poached pear. Further pear features were the folding of very thin small slices of non-ripe pear into a flower-like structure atop the crushed ice. The spring-green skin along the edges of these slices became curled as the slices were folded one into another. Two long triangular biscuits were unnecessary, but the small round scoop of blackcurrant sorbet on top of the sliced pears was nice. The sorbet was stunning visually -- a dark maroon, that, as it touched the ice and as it melted, created evocative color effects in interacting with the quasi-translucent crevices of the crushed ice. A refreshing, cool-tasting dessert. The decor in the restaurant area was quite modern. Grey suede for partitions and for the angular chairs, which had rectangular cut-outs on the regular-shaped backs of chairs. Appropriate use of brown in the decor, although I'm not a fan of grey/beige/brown color "washed out" scheme variations. The food service was appropriate, although the wine service left something to be desired and the wine list was overpriced. (There was even a very small "fine wine list", the distinguishing feature of which was even higher prices.) The remainder of the menu: Appetizers Lobster thermidor (Pounds 11.95) Veal ravioli Piedmontese (9.95) Salad of sauteed pigs' trotter fermiere (8.95) Roast foie gras and peach toasted brioche (12.95) Salad of roast sea scallops, orange vinaigrette (11.25) Boudin blanc, creamed cabbage and bacon (7.95) Artichoke and salsify soup, fricasse of morels (5.95) Terrine of foie gras, scallops and leek (14.75) Salmon tartare, peashoot salad (8.50) Beluga caviar (98.00) Main Courses Fillet of venison Wellington (19.95) Braised daube of beef Bourguignonne (16.95) Roast guinea fowl, cabbage and carrots, raisen (?) jus gras (17.95) Chicken Rossini, foie gras and braised celery (18.75) Lobster Americaine, tomato butter (24.95) Lobster Croustillant (in pastry), crustace sauce (24.95) Fillet of John Dory, Moucalade of mussels (18.25) Steamed hake, Chorizo sausage, curly kale, cherry vine tomatoes (16.95) Roast monkfish, Bayonne ham, creamed spinach, oxtail jus (17.95) Pea and morel risotto, deep fried pea shoots (12.95) Millefeuille of asparagus and potato, wild mushrooms (12.95)

jordyn -- If you don't tend to feel full from a restaurant meal, what do you do (e.g., eat less interesting things at home afterwards)? Coincidentally, the "Le Bernardin" thread under NYC addresses some aspects of whether members need to feel full after a meal. Very generally, I tend to feel fairly full after restaurant meals, but could readily stretch (and do so with some frequency) to take in more.

FriedaL -- While I don't have too much experience with bouillabaisse, I believe the one served at Bacon was of the authentic type you describe. I suspect that the broth and fish would likely have been served separately, had we not ordered the "degustation" version of the bouillabaisse within the context of a prix fixe menu (price was likely approx. 75 euros (?) for what Robert and I ordered, with the cigale de mer being a la carte of course). Given the meal was lunch and our plans to visit Maximin that very night, the a la carte version of the bouillabaisse appeared inappropriate to us. If it's not too burdensome for you, could you describe the utilization of chestnut bark and how that might augment taste? On regional specialties, do you have insight into "pieds et paquets"? I saw it on the menu at Samut's Auberge de la Feniere at Lourmarin, but did not order it.

ckbklady -- You mention your husband may take second helpings. One thing not previously mentioned in this thread is whether eating slowly might aid digestion and therefore permit greater quantities of food to be consumed. Is the variation in eating speed likely to be significant enough that a slow-eater might be able to take in more over the course of a meal? Or perhaps, conversely, could it be the case that a fast-eater's body has not yet absorbed the initial food taken by the time he is eating more? Is it then conceivable that fast-eaters might be able to take in more food because there is not enough time for them to "feel full"? Also, some diners take a long time to decide on which dishes to order, and not just a long time to eat. I choose dishes relatively quickly, because I have a good sense of my own preferences. (I might continue to review the menu, even after an order has been placed.) Some of my dining companions "dilly-dally" (no negative connotations) and like confirmation from others of their menu choices.

Wilfrid & magnolia -- Another sign of my being influenced by things eGullet is that I am going to Embassy tonight in view of the discussion on this thread. I'll report back in a couple of hours, after an early dinner. Later update: I had a good meal, reported under the pre-existing "Go to Embassy" thread.

Below is how I experienced Bacon: It was raining a tad, when I got off the train. I had gotten up around 5:30-6:00 am that Saturday, after restauranting in Paris on Friday night, to catch the 7:20 TGV to Marseilles. I had been able to get a good amount of sleep on that train and the train to which I switched. Alas, soon, around 1:10 pm, I realized I had gotten off the train too early -- in Cannes, and not Antibes! I stood in the rain, waiting for a cab. My sense of urgency was considerable, as Steve P had reminded me, when I alerted him by phone to this unhappy mistake, that Bacon did not accept orders after 1:30 pm. When I arrived at the restaurant, I settled in, receiving a warm welcome from the Browns. I was to enjoy talking with Robert's wife Susan as much as I did Robert and Steve P during this and the ensuing meal at Maximin. The expanse of ocean and the sky were grey, with emerging hints of blue, and the view offered from the restaurant was a long, uninterrupted stretch. I appreciated the rain and the washed grey tones that day. Just outside the restaurant and close to where we were sitting, a medium-sized lemon tree with fruit bearing appealingly uneven skin beamed at us. The decor of the restaurant was nice and simple -- with white hues predominating -- and glass sculptures of fish adorned the tables. (The fish are made by a local artist, and can also be seen next to the hammocks at Bastide de Moustiers, Moustiers Saint-Marie.) I was happy with the raw fish salad and bouillabaisse that had been chosen for me, and proceeded to inquire about "cigales de la mer". After some back-and-forth (and attempts by the restaurant to sell us two of the item, which, due to the size of one, we fortunately resisted), the kitchen agreed to prepare a single cigale for the table. The victim of our foodie thoughts was promptly brought to us live on a platter for inspection. I had never seen one in its natural state. The cigale resembled a very plump, rounddish (in terms of thickness of the cross-section of the body), squat-looking lobster; its color was a matte coppery orange-brown. One distinctive feature is that the head is of a different shape than a typical lobster's, and is much larger. Also, there seemed to be more pronounced little spiked "bumps" along the shell of the cigales than on the typical lobster. The service was not rapid, but that was fine in enabling our dining party to continue discussions. My seafood salad was good, with the freshness of the fish being evident and the dish integrated by a very rich olive oil (perhaps slightly too rich for me, but that is a personal quirk). The diced pile of string beans in the center of the dish was attractive. Vinegar had been utilized to marinate the bean pieces, and the resulting limited amount of acidity pleased. I was not able to identify the fish species utilized in this dish. Robert seemed to be enjoying this dish considerably as well, as Susan and Steve busied themselves with a foie gras terrine salad. The cigale, spit lengthwise into halves, was brought to our table before being deshelled and apportioned at a serving table. The crustacean's body is more "substantial" (and the shell containing meat "deeper" when viewed) than a lobster's. The dining room staff member seemed to be scooping yet more meat out of the shell every time we looked. One cigale was abundant for four diners. Chunks of cigales flesh were presented, accompanied by a cream and butter-based, herbed emulsion-type sauce (nage). I didn't rely very much on the sauce because the meat was sufficiently interesting to sample on its own. The flesh was more "muscular", dense (in a very good sense) and crisp than Brittany lobster. Its texture was noteworthy, and in parts, there almost seemed to be distinct "plates" or "ridges" of white flesh. In some areas where the flesh had been taken from next to the shell, there remained tiny peaked effects; these did not noticeably affect the taste. I wholeheartedly enjoyed the cigale dish. The texture was closer to langouste. There was a strong "crisp" feel in the mouth, and the flesh expressed itself convincingly without the sweet-like aftertaste one sometimes finds in lobster. Robert and I agreed that the flesh in the claw area of the cigale resembled lobster more, including with respect to limited sweet-like aftertastes. The bouillabaisse Robert and I chose, for which Bacon is known, was appealing as well. The broth was rich in flavor. The significant amounts of fish pieces (white fish) inside the broth were cooked just right. While I could not identify most of the species included, I believe the restaurant included scorpionfish (rascasse in French), an essential element in traditional bouillabaisse recipes. The croutons used for the Bacon bouillabaisse were soft, consisting of a yellow-colored bread. Steve demonstrated to me the utilization of the raw garlic segments offered up next to the rouille. The idea was to rub the garlic onto the croutons so as to transfer the aroma and intensity of the garlic. The rouille was yummy -- just the right creamy, yet somewhat dense, consistency when heaped onto croutons that became immersed in broth. The meal ended with fair desserts, including my iced nougat. A special meal, particularly as it marked my meeting the Browns in person.

Following up on the squirrel posts in the original St John thread, below are excerpts from articles on the item: -- The Financial Gazette, March 14, 2002: "Fergus Henderson . . . offers grey squirrel . . . . He said the dish was popular . . . 'The (squirrels') flesh is rather like wild rabbit but slightly oilier and it cooks very well,' Henderson told the Daily Mail. The chef pointed out he would not cook Britain's native, endangered, red squirrel . . ." -- Daily Mail, March 13, 2002: "There, squirrels . . . served with shallots and bacon. . . . A butcher in Wiltshire who knew Mr Henderson's mother had asked if he would be interested in squirrel meat. 'I was thrilled and intrigued,' Mr Henderson said. 'Straight away I had the notion of creating something like the forest floor and the foliage and the muskiness of the damp woods.' The squirrels are only available for three to four weeks each year . . . ."

Simon -- I'm not sure from reading the below linked thread whether Steve P went to Claridge's or RHR. I know your response to his initial post mentioned his experience was unrecognisable from yours at Claridge's. Perhaps Steve can clarify. http://forums.egullet.org/ikonboa....;t=4836 I acknowledge that Claridge's has not approached the culinary standards at RHR (nor the service standards); The Square would be preferable to Claridge's for me. Petrus, which is also open on Saturday nights and for which I secured a reservation for this Friday only yesterday, would be a closer call relative to Claridge's.

I would recommend against the Orrery, when the alternatives are as you have them. I no longer go to Conran restaurants, but have taken lunch (more reasonably priced) at Orrery before.

circeplum -- In case you might have missed the thread because of its title, please see "TimeOut Vouchers" in this forum for further discussion on Eyre Brothers and the prawns.

wingding & Jinmyo -- Thanks for the input. I was curious because, in Chinese cuisine, there is a dish involving the wrapping of fried rice in lotus leaves. The resulting bundle is steamed with the lotus leaves both adding special flavor to the rice, and protecting the moisture of it. While this dish has to be properly executed to offer something different from "normal" fried rice, when it is done well (e.g., at Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong), it is delicious.

The weekend was special not just because our group visited two recognized restaurants, but because it was meaningful to have met Robert and his wife in person. Below are the items we chose: BACON (Items Robert and I each chose are indicated first) Salade de Poisson Cru aux Herbes (Salad of raw fish with herbs) or Foie Gras Frais de Canard "Maison" (House fresh duck foie gras) Cigales de La Mer (Crustacean most closely resembling langouste and literally translated as crickets of the sea) Bouillabaisse "Degustation" (Tasting portion of bouillabaisse) or Medaillon de Langouste a la Nage (Langouste medallion with a nage) Nougat Glace au Coulis de Framboises (Iced Nougat with a Coulis of Rasberries), or Millefeuille Chaud (Hot Millefeuille) MAXIMIN (All diners received each dish, except for the desserts) Brouillade aux asperges sauvages (Scrambled eggs with wild asparagus) Salade de Saint Jacques fraiches a la catalane (Fresh scallops salad, Catalan style) Canette de Lauragain rotie a l'ail doux en poivrade 2 persons (Roasted duckling from Lauragain with garlic and pepper) Tres fine tarte aux pommes vertes, sirop cidre-vanille-citron, sorbet (Fine green apple tart, with a cider-vanilla-lemon syrup, sorbet), Petite nage de fraises (Nage of strawberries), or Sable pur beurre aux fraises et ravioles rissolees de framboises fraiches, sorbet (Butter "sable" with strawberries and browned raviolis containing fresh rasberries, sorbet)

Robert -- L'Auberge Bretonne not only has a 19/20, it also has the little G-M arrow pointing upwards (i.e., "Tendency -- up")! For members' convenience, below is a very rough translation of G-M's gushing commentary on the restaurant: "'The a la carte is for the regular patrons of Relais & Chateaux establishments who seek something standard. For creativity and new dishes, there is the [degustation] menu.' Let's acknowledge that the reasoning of Solange Thorel holds together pretty well, and perhaps explain the disappointment experienced by certain readers who await a flamboyance that never materializes. This menu, which changes regularly, always has *marvels*. To begin with, a swirl of amuses, including beetroot and cherry mousse with vinegar, left us flabberghasted [in a good way]. This was followed by hake which, from the combined effect of a cream of artichoke and of beluga caviar, became the best fish in the world, surpassing, through an *unknown magic*, the finesse of bass. And then lobster, in its jus with herb and a dense and smooth orange-mango sauce, for which **one could grant a 20 out of 20** because everything about it was perfect -- creative without being [disconcerting], masterful without being [solely] a demonstration of technique. Regular clients try, with the pigeonneau or with the veal kidney (____ in their fat, onctuous and strong), to save room for the burst of desserts -- seven jars and glasses of winning mousses; a phenomenal beaten milk (?) flavored with elder tree (?); a moving sliced rhubarb with macerated grapes. Sometimes a [pompous/blistering?] atmosphere weighs upon this restaurant, at times even a bit of anxiety. With the service of remarkable young persons and a new assistant female sommelier who shows that one can remain user-friendly in the context of such an impressive [wine list], Jacques and Solange Thorel appear to have come upon a **perfect [blossoming/debut]**. As for my visiting L'Auberge Bretonne, I'm going to defer and await a report from another member.

indiagirl -- If you are comfortable responding, is there anything members can presently assist on with respect to your decision on potentially sampling non-vegetarian items? Could it be the case that you have already taken some baby steps?

Yes, although Steve P noted that the 1985 Lynch-Bages we took in at La Trompette was very well-priced as far as restaurant offerings go. (The Lynch-Bages at LH was exactly the same year.) Here are sample prices from WineSearcher, which I do not know are indicative (in view of my very limited wine knowledge): http://www.wine-searcher.com/wine-se....KRN00HV (note USD quoting)

Malawry -- Speaking of your kitchen, do you try to eat more rapidly when you are cooking the meal? I imagine that eating speed would be particularly important then. Do some members cooking at home offer to somehow "reheat" for certain guests items rendered cold by slow eating? What quick methods could be used for reheating that generaly do less damage to the quality of dishes? On cold fish, Troisgros' salmon with sorrel dish tends to be presented in two services, when it is served as a full-fledged a la carte entree. The temperature effects are apparently one of the principal reasons for this method of presentation. (Note the dish may change slightly from year to year, as acknowledged on the Troisgros website. "For the past three years we have adapted this dish annually, creating 'vintage' recipes...")

Andy -- On the prices, I think the pre-theater price is still good, despite the limitation of selection to two alternatives for each course. I prefer both Petrus and The Square to Lindsay House, but used to go to LH prior to Royal Opera performances (e.g., when Kirov ballet and opera troupes visited last summer). LH is close to the Leicester Square Tube stop, and a manageable walk to the opera house even with heels. I preferred my meal at La Trompette to tonight's meal. Note that last night's meal at Smith of Smithfields, Second Floor, cost only Pounds 15 less than LH's pre-theater (taking into account in each case wine consumed). Subjectively, I like LH's interior. It's a mix of styles, because the house itself is a bit run-down (in an arguably charming way) and has old-style touches with respect to the fireplace area, the staircases, etc. I liked the yellow roses placed on top of the fireplace area on the Ground Floor (the only area at LH in which I have dined). I found the lighting slightly too dark, but only by a small margin. What was odd (and I hadn't noticed this, for some reason, on prior visits) was that the walls (about waist-height) of the Ground Floor dining area had small gold-colored squares painted on them (albeit in a "spaced out" manner). Overall, the decor of LH was fine. Continuing with decor, my favorite color is burgundy, so I like Petrus' entryway and sitting area. I will provide an updated report on Petrus after my meal there (work permitting) this Friday night. (My favorite restaurant in London is, by a wide margin, Gordon Ramsay RHR and I do not believe Petrus approximates that.) Also, a note on the LH wine list. It can be on the expensive side for some bottles, although there were various bottles under Pounds 40. For example, the Lynch-Bages Steve P picked out for the La Trompette Meal (click previous words for link) meal was priced at Pounds 275, almost double the La Trompette price of approximately 140. blind lemon higgins -- I am attempting another late meal (10:30 pm). Interestingly, Petrus asked me to provide a credit card guarantee of the reservation. This had not been requested on prior visits.

I had dinner at Richard Corrigan at the Lindsay House tonight. As Wilfrid suggested, while Corrigan is a chef with some promise, the restaurant has gone a bit downhill since prior visits (in my case, two in 2001). The food is still based on combinations that are interesting to me, with flavors that are appealing, but execution and balance on the plate were lacking and there were obvious service and other flaws. I ordered the pre-theater menu, at Pounds 24 for two courses and 29.50 for three (items not chosen in square brackets): -- Rare roast rump of veal, aubergine marmalade and soy [Wild smoked salmon, green olives, saffron braised fennel] -- Panfried fillet of green cod, fresh water prawns, langoustines veloute [braised ox tongue, artichoke barigoule, ribbon of leeks] -- Chocolate creme brulee, orange sorbet [irish style Brie, spinach salad] Glass of champagne, Nicolas Feuillatte, Reserve Particuliere (Pounds 10) Glass of White Burgundy, Amiot 1998 (7.00) The meal began on a sour service note. The young woman who appeared to be directing the dining room did not give me the pre-theater menu insert, even though I had specifically mentioned such menu upon making the reservation. (It is available for seating between 6:00 pm and 7:30 pm, and, at Pounds 29.50 for three courses, is considerably less expensive than the 48.00 prix fixe for the same number of courses.) What surprised me was that, when I asked this woman for the pre-theater menu insert, she harshly said that such menu is only available for those who mention it upon making the reservation. I retorted that I had mentioned it at that time, only to be met with the response that it had not been noted. (Gee -- I wonder whose fault that was?!) Interestingly, I may not have chosen to order the pre-theater menu, had this eposide not occured. However, I was so irked that I decided to order the pre-theater, even though I would have liked something else as an appetizer (the lobster ravioli, for comparison against Gordon Ramsay RHR and Petrus; see a la carte menu noted below). As a general matter, the service appeared a bit strained, but it was not unduly off the mark for a Michelin one-star. One of the dining room staff members was a Russian woman, and she spoke very loudly in Russian to a group of businessmen at the adjacent table who were celebrating the consummation of a Russian securities offering. The amuse was a small amount of chicken bouillon in a cappucino cup, with even smaller bits of shrimp and slices of mushroom. The weakness in this dish was the taste of the bouillon itself -- not particularly chicken-flavored and with a oddly, slightly sour aftertaste. The veal appetizer was bordering on very good. Small pieces of tender, pinkish veal, aided by a mild soy-based sauce that was appropriately limited in quantity. A good amount of chanterelles, and several small pieces of extremely fatty veal that had crispy edges and that were satisfying. The aubergine marmelade accompanying this dish was refreshing (as far as aubergine goes). A dish I enjoyed quite a bit. However, the green cod entree re-anchored the meal at an average level. Although not noted on the menu as such, the fish was pollack (one I do not particularly like). The fish was ever-so-slightly overcooked, but not poor. A detracting factor was the significant oversalting of the zucchini spaghetti which accompanied the fish. The prawns, in segments encirculing the pollack, were nice, as were the circular dots of a medium-consistency langoustines veloute lining the plate. Also nice were small pools of parsley puree, and a bit of flavored oil. Overall, the entree was at most average. A pre-dessert was served -- a shotglass of decent apple pudding, with plentiful vanilla liquid cream. The dessert was so-so, being a dense dark chocolate creme brulee in a circular dish. Icing sugar speckled the top of the creme brulee. Atop this item were candied orange peels and a run-of-the-mill orange sorbet. The best part of the mignardises was the mini warm lemon tart, with its thin bottom and creme-brulee-like top. I felt disappointed after this meal, in part because I know Corrigan is capable of better. :confused: My 2001 meals at the Lindsay House had been better, including with respect to service aspects. Here is additional information for interested members: A LA CARTE (at Pounds 48, including dessert) Other appetizers: Salad of Cornish crab with globe artichoke Terrine of salmon, marinated courgette and basil, baby beetroot Sardines with shellfish souffle and tomato salad Roast quail, foie gras quiche, Muscat grape jelly Ravioli of lobster, braised fennel, langoustine veloute Sweet sherry marinated foie gras with fig compote Pithivier of chicken, goats cheese, prunes, pickled mushrooms Other entrees: Cornmeal croquettes, warm salad of leek and tomato Native scallops, tagliatelle, carrot and parsley veloute Ballottine of sea bass, cabbage, oyster cream Fillet of beef, ratatouille of snail, garlic and parsley butter sauce Roast saddle of rabbit, black pudding, polenta and confit garlic Breast of wood pigeon, foie gras and pumpkin chutney Assiette (Plate) of lamb, homous, rosemary oil and pousse TASTING MENU (at Pounds 65) Sweet sherry marinated foie gras with fig compote Sardines with shellfish souffle and tomato salad Rare roast rump fo veal, aubergine marmalade and soy Native scallops, tagliatelle, carrot and parsley veloute Breast of wood pigeon, foie gras and pumpkin chutney Poached pear and Sauternes jelly, blue cheese Bavarois Warm steamed apple pudding, vanilla cream Rhubarb millefeuille with grenadine syrup

Helena -- When you have a chance, please consider discussing whether you have sampled Wegmans' Herme-line chocolates. Are they available by the piece, or is there a minimum purchase quantity like on the Internet site? I will sample the Herme chocolates in Paris within the next month or so, and report back. Here is Steve Klc's response to a similar post I placed on the NY board: Click here.