Explorer

Lesley- Could you throw some of them our way in Toronto? I know Gascogne, Lorraine and definitely Pain Dore. That Passe-Partout sounds enticing enough to make a trip there. Here, Ace Bakery has a monopoly and it's sour dough based, unfortunately.

From Arab.net web site,-- a neutral web site: "Lebanese contributions have been the greatest influence on modern Middle Eastern cuisine, in no small part due to the entrepreneurship of the Lebanese that has helped to spread Arabic cuisine throughout the world from its centre in the Levant in such areas as Aleppo, Damascus, Beirut and Nablus. Lebanese culinary influence and business skills provide the framework for the exotic cuisine recognised internationally as Arabic. " Source: http://www.arab.net/cuisine Saying that Lebanese cuisine is a flagship for Arab cuisine is no different than saying that French cuisine is a flagship of European influences. Yes, there are regional variations in many dishes, but the predominance of the Lebanese label is probably the result of hard work and the other reasons mentioned in this post already.

And the best thing about this kind of system would be its real-time dynamic nature. But would we allow new input to immediately influence new rankings, or would we "hold" new input and release it simultaneoulsy after a given period like a month or 2 months, etc.?

I don't think it's on the www. What they seem to have is viamichelin.com which is European focused.

As far as I know, I have only seen Green Guide Michelin (Le Guide Vert) for outside Europe. It exists for NY and other major cities, but they are not very discriminating in their choice of restaurants which are lumped with tourist attractions. You will find more of a pot-pourri of restaurant suggestions from all over the spectrum.

Random thoughts: 1- One of the reasons I was first attracted to eGullet was that I hoping to find some ranking/rating list somewhere. Fetching the threads can be dreadful sometimes. 2- I favor categorizing restaurants; i.e. listing them inside 3-4 well defined categories. It would be like splitting hair if you try to rank 10 restaurants in a "A" category for e.g. as it would be tough to rank the 20 3-star Michelin restaurants in France. They all are great but also very different at the same time. Descriptive info about them becomes more important than a number. 3- Universality is tough to achieve; for e.g. the way restaurants are reviewed in France is different from North America. That's why Zagat's ratings in France are even more meaningless than the ones in North America and vice-versa Michelin touches only a few restaurants in North America. 4- Finally, what's more important to me is the real-time aspect of the review; i.e. its combined accuracy and recency. Only the Internet can provide that unless you print a guide every month. This is more of an issue for North America as consistency can change often whereas in Europe, there is a bit more of a sense of continuity and slower change. To illustrate subjectivity and diversity, I just finished watching 2 episodes of the Iron Chef does France with a French Chef vs. a Japanese Chef and they had 2 French judges (Robuchon and Troisgros) and 2 Japanese ones. In each case, the French judges gave more points to the French Chef and less to the Japanese one whereas the Japanese judges did the opposite. Some of the comments were telling: The French judges said they liked the vegetables more cooked when the Japanese Chef made them crunchy [i thought it is a known fact that the French like vegetables well cooked; but how could he make 2 of them more cooked than the others? Then, when the Japanese judge thought the French-cooked lobster was overcooked and therefore tough, Troigros was quick to observe that these Normandy lobsters are naturally tough, hence their texture was well exhibited in the cooking. Go figure!

I didn' t mean to shoot down the other cuisines, but relatively-speaking the Lebanese cuisine is more varied which has helped in giving it a wider range of acceptance. I think that all cuisines have great dishes. Could you by any chance challenge your caterers to diversify a bit more?

Thanks Steve....I almost forgot about the wine (Musar/Ksara) which is probably not available in the radical Arab countries. The wine has definitely to do with the French Jesuits that started it in 1800's, the right weather, plus the number of Christians there; i.e. not being a Muslim country, drinking is ok. The next issue of Saveur (April) will have a special report on the revival of the Lebanese wine industry.

The short answer is to think of the analogy of French food influence on Western world cuisines. Lebanese cuisine is the richest and most varied in the Middle-East. Its export success is partly due to the entrepreneurial drive of the Lebanese, but also because of the inherently wide range of nutritional structure it possesses. It dwarfes any other regional cuisines which are more limited; that's why you won't find too many Sudanese or Morrocan, etc.... Lebanese cuisine is generally healthy. There is almost no frying, no butter or cream sauces. It is based mostly on grilling and baking, or olive oil sautéing. Usage of olive oil, lemon and herbs is as frequent as in Italian cuisine. Spices are mild. Lots of beans and grains. It does seem to have a large footprint when contrasted with the small size of the country. The history and present of Lebanon is a rich land with an abundance of fruit, vegetable, animal/poultry production as well as fresh seafood availability. It has water, mountains and the right weather. All these are the right environmental variables for culinary experimentation. As far as influences, they didn’t start with the French mandate (early 1900’s). Overall, you will see some osmosis with Southern Italian, Southern France, Greek and Turkish influences. I agree that it could become boring if restaurants stick to the usual tabbouli, hummous, kefta, falafel, etc… I wonder if you have the option to try the “plat-du-jour” which are usually more sophisticated creations. Have you tried for e.g. mulukieh, moghrabieh, sayyadieh, or even pigeon dishes? How about kibbe with laban? Or Chich-Barak: Meat dumplings in warm yogurt sauce?

Speaking of pda's, I have used my Blackberry to check online about certain wines just before ordering, and it looks like I'm checking e-mail; but am just more conscious about note-taking now since most of you eGulleter have given some pretty accurate culinary reports. I used to just go and enjoy it; now I have to report on it too....(just kidding).

I steam it first (don't over-steam as it will wilt quickly) then toss in a medley of garlic/ginger/shiitake sauteed with olive or sesame oil + soy sauce and bit of rice vinegar.

Thanks for everybody's quick and useful responses. My intent is not to be antagonistic with the staff. I am thinking that from a strategy point of view; maybe it makes sense to be more discreet about note-taking until the end of the meal in order not to influence the service, attitude or food. Then, save the questions for the end and be open about it. And even call-in the day after to follow-up perhaps on a question? I am curious to hear how professional writers do it and Fat-Guy's opinion if possible. Any tricks from the book Dining Out: Secrets from America's Leading Critics, Chefs and Restauranteurs?

Just curious to hear about other members' experiences and how to accurately position this. So, they see you taking notes for accuracy purposes and to capture your thoughts of the moment. What is the proper way to answer if they ask why? Should I say I'm writing a mini-review for eGullet? Not being a professional food writer, will they take me seriously? What if I start to become a pest as I want a moire detailed description on such and such item, and am not happy with the 30,000 ft description from the waiter? Is it better to save all these questions and ask if the chef can spend 5 mins with me at the very end?

I like Scharffen Berger, Valrhona and Lindt. For price comparison, try Bizrate.com; they have an extensive chocolate selection. Even if what you are looking may not be exactly there, you may discover new suppliers.

Try this list Flourless recipes from Doing Freedom.. And this excellent article on the subject: Article. As specified in it, a flourless chocoloate cake is more about the chocolate than the flavorings; so it would be important to stick to top quality chocolate when making it. 70% for me is minimum requirement for chocolate usage. The higher the %, the more pure it is and the more cocoa in it. A daily dose of high % chocolate is apparently good for the body and not harmful.

Just as a clarification for readers: Don Duong is the owner of Dessert Trends are the same thing. I just called him, and he's still not sure when the retail location will open. He said it's still in the construction or renovation phase. It appears that he takes orders only (i.e. you can't walk-in and buy it) specifically cakes and small mignardises/bouchee types. His stuff is available at Pusateris and Holt Renfrew as well. So given these 2 locations have other suppliers as well on display, you have to ask specifically which one is from Duong. But what I found the most intriguing is that he is the supplier to the Air France First Class lounge at the airport. I don't want to read more into it except that perhaps somebody at Air France must have "snubbed" the other "french" places in town, in favor of Duong. I like that and I will definitely try Duong's at the next occasion.

Back in the mid-late 80's, Patachou was "the" pastry place. Although they are still honorable, they seem to have stagnated as far as innovations and new products. Their fruit tarts are fine. They make an amazing Bostoc for $2; but their eclairs are now a disaster and so was their most recent Buche de Noel. I think it's become more of a lunch/bkfst place with cute soups and salads. estufarian- You're right; I don't mind importing all kinds of French good stuff, but not French attitude. It doesn't sell in N.A.

The NY Times reported it was a gunshot. You can check this special link for more coverage in English. News on Bernard Loiseau I have been curious as to why his "cuisine a l'eau" didn't become more popular elsewhere. It does make sense especially with today's trend for less fatty nutrients.

I have been on the 4 sides of these permutations, i.e. where I recommend and it's good/it's bad OR they recommend and it's good/it's bad. What I have learned is to try to take advice from those you know share a similar level of experience and gastronomy appreciation. And even if it doesn't work out; don't take it personally on them. As my tastes and preferences kept rising over the years, the circle of possible advisors kept getting smaller; but now with eGullet perhaps it will expand again in the right direction. There's nothing more fulfilling than to recount the greateness of a specific experience with a friend that had recommended it in the first place. But on the other hand, we have learned to lower our expectations as a starting point, as a defensive mechanism. The upside is always welcome and the let-down becomes a bit easier. It's somehow easier to give/receive recommendations on the top lists, although a near real-time update from a recent visit is most valuable, especially when it's discovered that the restaurant in question is in decline for e.g. if the star-chef has left and you didn't know about it. But the more difficult recommendations are about the not-so well known places that have something unique and valuable and that are the real discoveries. I value those more if the real story stands-up to the narrated experience. So, I value these "up-and-coming" recommendations that turn up as real gems even if the hit rate is 50/50. Finally, I balance our actual destinations on a given trip: 50% sure ones; 25% newly recommended and 25% lucky ones that could surprise us.

Since Fat-Guy is getting technical on this, I agree 100% with his commentary. The clam pie at Peppe's is definitely unique, although when we had it the 2nd time, it wasn't the same. The first time. the owner was there and he told us it was fresh from that day. The second time, he wasn't there and we noticed a let-down in everything, including the famous clam pie. As for Sally's, it's a smaller place with a bit more authenticity in its nostalgic setting. We were amused hearing pizza afficionado's order their pizzas well done, or extra oil, etc... I still crave the taste of both in my mind and have thought that if I had only one evening in New Haven, I would eat 1 pizza at Peppe's and a 2nd one at Sally's right after. Finally, a bit more detail to the scene. Both places are full of b&w pictures paraphenellia on the walls; I noticed Peppe's had pictures of Clinton and Democrats; and for some reason I recall Sally's was more Republican. I may be speculating but I had a sense the political inclination is another difference to these 2 places, although it is unrelated to the pizza...

I am shocked and saddened. We were at his Cote d'Or actually almost a year ago; and am looking at a picture we framed after that outstanding 3 hour lunch we had. He was 52 and apparently the cause of death is unknown; there's an investigation going on.

On the subject of Peppe's vs. Sally, if a vote was taken by those that have tried both, I am willing to bet that the outcome will be closer than the Florida presidential election. I preferred Peppe's and my wife Sally's and we've had half a dozen at each (not at once). Go figure, but I won't go as far as saying that Sally is from Venus and Peppe from Mars. I kept wondering what made these New Haven pizzas absolutely amazing? Although the truth may be in the secret recipes, I have a tendency to believe it's the pie itself that stands out; as if there is a bit of "pate feuillete" pastry in it. I have looked at residential wood burning ovens. Here are two places that sell them at reasonable prices, but I do agree that it takes about 1 hour for them to reach full heat status. Cleaning ain't so bad: a damp cloth does the trick with a shhhh... sound, but it's worth it. Earthstone and Renato. Also, there is this list of Brick Oven Builders & Suppliers. New Haven pizza rocks.

Steve- That would be interesting if he did- although I did a search on MS web site and his name didn't come up. Nonetheless, that doesn't make him a genious necessarily for appearing on MS nor does it make customer service at his pastry shop any better. Anyways- to get back on track with the topic; we're discussing customer service at Rahier.

I knew of Fleur de Lys and have tried it, but not their cakes. By the look of their croissants, I couldn't buy them; then I tried 2 tarts and they weren't that great; so I haven't tried the Fleur de Lys cakes but based on sampling their pastries, it didn't cut it for me. If they were that great; they would be able to cut into Rahier's business, but that's not my observation. Fleur de Lys was empty on the same day that Rahier was almost experiencing pick-up riots. As for Dufflet- you're right- don't even mention it. It's like saying that Emeril is a gourmet chef. Since you are from Vancouver, did you ever notice that 5Senses in Vancouver has much better pastries than the one in Toronto? Have you tried deserts at Diva? It's truly amazing. (same pastry-chef as 5Senses around the corner)

Nicholas Feuillate, Blanc de Blanc ($30) for pre-dinner/apetizers. You can smell the Chardonnay nicely in it and it's smooth but with a good first-attack. And for a vintage, Roederer Vintage 1995 Rose; Excellent with food; any food. $46. If you can still find it in North America, let me know where, please! Well rounded and complex. We've had inconsistent Domaine Carneros, by Taittinger so maybe it's the year that mattered. ($22) The nutty taste is amazing. The Oregon Bubbly is interesting; I shall start to hunt it ...