JoNorvelleWalker
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Posts posted by JoNorvelleWalker
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Speaking here only from booklearning and not from experience, if you are making ice cream commercially you probably ought to homogenize your base. That is how people get away with adding butter to formulae as a source of butterfat. I have never tried Cremodan. I note Cremodan 30 is marketed as a stabilizer, not as an emusifier.
And from experience, using a machine with a slower dasher helps. Also don't neglect to fully age your base.
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I like Navip. I was introduced to Slivovitz while visiting Yugoslavia forty some years ago (I try not to think about the headache). I keep a bottle from the 1970's for reference, but the new stuff to my taste is just as good. Navip is aged eight years. My only complaint is that the supply is spotty here.
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I would not cook the grains together in the same pot. And I'd use a pressure cooker if I had a working one.
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What do you guys mean when you say "readily scoop-able ? What I do when we want to eat ice cream is move ice from -30 freezer to -18 freezer for about 12-24 hours, then leave it outside 5-10 mins before serving.
New information. I've been reading Chris Clarke, The Science of Ice Cream 2nd Edition. Scoopability is the physical property yield stress (p 175).
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Use a pressure cooker -- idea from MC.
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I wrote about my particular version in my eG foodblog a couple of years ago, starting here. The recipe I use is a doubling of the one in the NZ classic Edmond's Cookbook, but my secret ingredient is my stand mixer and really beating air into it.
I've drooled over your blog before when searching for pavlova recipes as ice cream by-products. I am a bit worried about pasteurization, so I make munalavgekook instead:
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/144208-home-made-ice-cream-2013/?p=1907948
But curiosity is getting the better of me and I'd like to try pavlova. (Besides, I have a freezer full of munalavgekook.) For those of us without a copy of the Edmonds Cookery Book, could you list the recipe?
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I have read Homemade Soda. I found it interesting but I have not tried any of the recipes. My interest is that I would like a cola that tastes like coke, but is less sweet than coke and sweetened only with sucrose. Maybe open cola might be the way to go, but somehow I doubt I could really make something that tastes as good as coke. Why coke does not offer such a product I do not understand.
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Is there carrageenan in it? That will work much more powerfully if there's calcium around.
Gums in general are really powerful, especially in certain combinations. It can be a challenge mixing in small enough quantities for home-sized batches.
This makes me think that I am indeed using a stabilizer in my ice cream after all. The ultra pasteurized cream I usually buy has carrageenan as an additive.
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For cooking a small chicken such as a Cornish game hen, I will sometimes take an angel food pan, cover the hole in the pan with foil, and impale the bird vertically over the foil. Then roast at 425 deg F.
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Pressure infuse the cream in an iSi.
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I would not keep grapes a couple weeks.
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Sorry, I returned my copy of Frozen Desserts to the library. Currently reading ICE CREAM! The Whole Scoop by Gail Damerow. Damwrow has a chapter on emulsifiers and stabilizers, and for sorbets recommends arrowroot or kudzu starch in conjuction with gelatin and pectin, at the rate of one teaspoon per quart of arrowroot to a half teaspoon each of gelatin and pectin. I'm not much into sorbet, so I'll leave the experiment for others to try.
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I agree that the reviews are usually not impartial - They don't get home made enough to evaluate, and never get more experimental flavours...
I have a question for anyone that might know :
atomized glucose 21 DE and atomized glucose 52 DE
If I understand correctly these would basically be dextrose with starch filler - 21% and 52% dextrose and the rest starch?
Has anyone tried mixing their own instead of buying it (for those that have used it)?
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I have never used the ICE-100 Keep Cool function. I pre-chill the machine for about fifteen minutes, stop the dasher, reset the timer to sixty minutes, add the mix, and start the cycle. I watch the degree of overrun and the time. Almost invariably fifteen minutes is the best time to stop the machine and transfer the ice cream to the freezer. I have tried longer spin times and I have also tried measuring the draw temperature. From my experiments the most important variable affecting ice cream quality is the spin time. The draw temperature does not seem to matter much. Much longer than fifteen minutes and my ice cream gets icy. At fifteen minutes I can keep the ice cream in the freezer for weeks with no iciness.
The ICE-100 Gelato Paddle gives me lower overrun for a given spin time. I usually use the Ice Cream Paddle with a short fifteen minute spin time for low overrun.
LindaK, which Lello model do you have?
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I do think there would be a temperature difference. I could be wrong. Easy enough to measure if someone has a unit.
I've had three compressor machines: Simac (which made good ice cream but was a pain to clean), KitchenAid (which was frightfully expensive, very hard to clean, and could not make satisfactory ice cream), and my present Cuisinart ICE-100 (which is easy to clean and makes good ice cream). The ICE-100 on sale for $234 was a good value. The ICE-100 is not all stainless steel and it probably does not have as powerful a compressor as some of the more expensive Lello models. But I don't think any of the Lellos have removable bowls.
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Darienne, I would let your mix cool over night if possible. You might want to try the experiment of spinning half a batch of mix green and half after it had aged a day. See if it makes a difference for you.
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I like the idea of the Breville measuring temperature. However from reading the manual, the temperature displayed is the temperature of the compressor, not the temperature of the mix.
Sorry I have no hands on experience to help you.
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At the risk of being considered a pest, I am going to repost my ignored question from May 24 and broaden it a bit.
"I'm wondering whether it makes any difference to age a cornstarch pudding mixture over night in the fridge."
Also, what is the 'aging' process which occurs when a mixture is left overnight, cornstarch or otherwise? It improves the flavor how?
Thanks.
This reference may help:
With aging my own mixes I sometimes see a considerable increase in viscosity.
As far as cornstarch pudding, I believe it is better served chilled several hours rather than warm (though I have been known to eat cornstarch pudding hot). However if the cornstarch pudding contains egg yolks and has not been heated close to boiling, the starch will degrade due to enzymatic action of the eggs.
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Tonight was Lamb Tagine with Baby Spinich, Lemon, and Olives (pp 364-365). First time I had made it. Wonderful dish, but more effort than I was expecting. I sat down to dinner at 2:00 am. I've prepared enough Moroccan recipes that I should have known by now.
2 AM!
I too have been caught short by Moroccan recipes, and Wolfert's in general, that appear to be simpler than they actually are.On the cinnamon issue, I gather from a post by Wolfert in the thread that you linked that cassia (or Chinese cinnamon) is used in tagines, while Ceylon cinnamon is used in desserts.
(I find cinnamon terminology incredibly confusing. Neither of the types above seem to be the thick, hard, "standard" cinnamon sticks, which come from Indonesia, but rather varieties of the flakier, softer stuff - the Chinese being less soft than the Ceylon. And it seems like the Chinese stuff is technically cassia while the Ceylonese stuff is "true cinnamon". Which leaves what we call cinnamon most regularly, c. burmannii, entirely out of the picture!)
(And then there's Saigon cinnamon, which is another thing again.)
The Lamb Tagine with Baby Spinich, Lemon, and Olives calls for Ceylon cinnamon, which I believe is what I used. The brand of cinnamon I have is Mediterranean Gourmet, which is not listed as a product on their website. In any event the unground version looks like Ceylon. It is good stuff though, a mild sweet cinnamon.
In the book Wolfert says she uses Cassia in bark form in certain dishes. Otherwise she seems to use Ceylon. Of course it would be wonderful if she would jump in here and correct us.
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Tonight was Lamb Tagine with Baby Spinich, Lemon, and Olives (pp 364-365). First time I had made it. Wonderful dish, but more effort than I was expecting. I sat down to dinner at 2:00 am. I've prepared enough Moroccan recipes that I should have known by now.
I made the dish very close to the printed recipe. I used a yellow sweet onion rather than a red onion, as that is what I had. I doubt the substitution made much difference. Generally (possibly because I am an American) I do not care for pepper cooked a long time, preferring to add freshly ground pepper at the table. Hence I initially substituted grains of paradise for the white pepper called for. But I felt guilty and added the white pepper anyhow.
For the coarse salt called for I used malha heena, as I've mentioned in the salt thread. No one else seems interested in malha heena. But for some reason I find the thought of a quarter billion year old (give or take a few months) haloarchaea spores in my tagine appealing. And it sure is pretty.
For most tagines I use my Le Cruset. It is larger than my Moroccan unglazed earthenware tagine and I don't have to worry about heat shock. But this recipe seemed well suited to the earthenware, so that is what I used.
From this thread:
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/63502-moroccan-tagine-cooking/page-4
I inferred that cinnamon was not used with dishes that are based on preserved lemon and olives, yet cinnamon is called for here? I would love to know more about the basis of classical Moroccan cooking than what Wolfert or any of the English language texts present.
Anyhow I ate a lot, washed down with freshly baked roundbread.
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Creamright is where I got my iSi. I am very pleased with Creamright.
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I've never made garlic ice cream, but I have had it. (What better flavor to be served at a garlic festival?) Blue cheese and strawberry sound like they would go together quite well, actually.
Casein is the major protein in cow's milk. It is used in cheese making. That being said, I don't know where one would buy casein in the US either. I'd try Amazon. Gelatin is a traditional stabilizer of ice cream manufacturing in the US, though it's not used much any more. David Lebovitz has information on using gelatin. Two other stabilizers to consider are guar gum and xanthan gum. I use egg yolk as my emusifier, and I get best results without any added stabilizer.
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I have a Dynamic immersion blender. They're as robust as Robot Coupe (both are made in France), and Dynamic has a much wider array of accessories, and costs less than Robot Coupe. These are no-nonsense commercial grade units.
I bought the "Dynashake", which is the same as the "Mini-Pro" but includes a special container and longer shaft for making shakes and smoothies. It comes with 3 different blades, emulsifying, chopping, and whipping.
I also have the ricer, whisking, and food processor attachments.
Katom restaurant supply seems to have the best prices on Dynamic products in the US.
For what it's worth, Dynamic invented the immersion blender.
As far as immersion blenders are concerned, I remain happy with my KitchenAid. However that Dynashake sure looks interesting. I'd like to be able to make a good milkshake. I've not had what I consider an acceptable milkshake in years, even from ice cream parlors using Vitamix and such.
Would a Dynashake do the job? Or is there someting better?
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I have a few questions for everyone who has tried the icecreamscience method.
Yesterday I tried to make the roasted hazelnut ice-cream on Ruben's website, BUT I only cooked the custard for about 40 minutes (my patience ran out at this point, sorry). Also, I did NOT age it overnight in the fridge, just cooled it in the ice-bath, and started churning it when it got really cold. I have the Cuisinart ICE-20 (with the 2-quart bowl), and I used a hazelnut paste from Cacao Barry.
The flavour is great, and in the mouth it melts smoothly, without leaving a heavy film on the palate, like some of Jeni's recipes do. However, when it was done churning, it looked... grainy, sandy?! Not even sure if this is the right word for it, as I have never experienced a texture like this, although I have made ice-cream many, many times using the custard method.
So here is a pic I took today, after the ice-cream has had a night in my (-18C) freezer.
Where I scoop, it looks smooth, but the top still has that grainy look. I know that when you don't follow a formula, you're asking for trouble, I just would like to know your thoughts on what may have caused this texture. Again, the taste is everything I like about ice-cream, but the look... not quite.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I have not tried making hazelnut, but I wonder if the surface texture could have been due to the ground nuts?
I can understand your patience running out after forty minutes! Many a night my patience has been sorely tried, not to mention my poor feet. The extra twenty minutes might have made an improvement, but I suspect a bigger contribution to the final result would have been to let the mix age over night. An interesting experiment might be to divide a double recipe of mix into two portions. Freeze one half immediately and the other half after a day in the refrigerator.
Pavlova
in Pastry & Baking
Posted
Sorry for the delay. Because of the weather I had not felt up to preparing ice cream mix. But now I have a six egg batch of pavlova in the oven! I followed Leslie's instructions as given by Bojana, with the addition of cream of tarter at the start. Six egg whites makes a lot. The meringue was climbing out of the six quart mixer bowl, and the KitchenAid motor was groaning. I don't think I shall attempt a nine egg version soon.
Oh, and I also mixed the cornstarch with the sugar, rather than adding them sequentially. I used apple cider vinegar. And half vanilla extract and half vanilla paste, as I did not have enough extract on hand.
I must say I had never heard the word "pavlova" applied to a dessert until I joined eGullet. My mother made baked merigues like this but they were just called "merigues", and as I recall it was considered a defect if they came out soft in the center. She also made baked Alaska (but not nearly often enough).
I'll report back with my results!