JoNorvelleWalker
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Posts posted by JoNorvelleWalker
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Professor Calvel was writing for commercial bakers using deck ovens.
I don't think I went wrong anywhere. If you are talking about the likes of baguettes .... The steamless baguette:
I think the crust could be thinner and not as dull had steam been used.
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I steam mine - better yet - steam them in the pressure cooker - done in no time!
I would have used a pressure cooker if I had a working one. As it was I steamed for an hour and a half.
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For my steamed artichoke tonight I served it with Meyer lemon juice, argan oil, black pepper, and malha heena (red salt). The beautiful large crystals of malha heena on the side.
I am about as fond of hollandaise as anyone, however I do not feel hollandaise goes well with artichokes. Artichokes, in my opinion, go best with a simple acid and oil, rather than an egg based sauce.
There is a question I have about steaming vs. boiling. I do not often prepare artichokes, but I get better results steaming rather than boiling. However one of my sources, the Time Life The Good Cook Vegetables volume, has an austere injunction: "Do not steam." Anyone know why this would be so? What is bad about steaming artichokes?
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The ones baked with steam are the top four. I only bake sourdough and these are 5 Seed with Spelt so you're not talking about a light dough.
Below are Multigrain - 50% Strong White Bread Flour/50% Wholemeal + a soaker of millet, jumbo oats, bulgar & polenta - so, again, not a light dough. Baked without any steam. So, from the photos can you tell me why I would want to use steam? You'll find dozens of bread photos on the blog all baked without steam. Am I going wrong somewhere?
According to Calvel, "large round dense, compact loaves" suffer less from the absence of steam than would "longer and lighter loaves". Probably where you went wrong is you just chose a poor example to illustrate the benefit of steam.
Nice loaves, though!
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timpoblete -- as to your your question on increasing overrun, in post #18 jrshaul suggests using guar gum for increasing overrun.
Bojana -- I was hoping someone could answer better than I can, however from a health standpoint I would not hesitate to serve the melted and then spun product, as long as the mix was pasteurized to begin with. Note, I'm not giving advice that this is fully safe, I'm saying what I would do. Whether there is an effect on taste from still freezing the base, I am not sure. Frozen milk is pretty gross.
Also, if the base includes eggs or dairy I would never boil it! Modernist Cuisine volume 1 has very useful time and temperature information for pasteurizing ice cream base.
By the way, did you get your Musso fixed?
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Interesting topic. Here is a link to a paper on the use of dextrose (the predominant naturally occurring form of glucose) in ice cream manufacture:
http://www.archive.org/stream/dextroseincommer00corb/dextroseincommer00corb_djvu.txt
The text is rather long and I did not reread it tonight, however my remembrance is that for high butter fat ice cream tasting groups preferred a formula sweetened with a mix of dextrose and sucrose, and for lower butterfat ice cream tasters preferred all sucrose. However I am old and my memory may be shot from too much HFCS, so take this with a grain of salt.
Corn syrup or glucose syrup is not just glucose, it also has longer carbohydrate molecules. Dextrose will help lower the freezing point of ice cream better than sucrose, and since dextrose is less sweet than sucrose, the mix need not be overly sweet. Because of the larger molecules in corn syrup, it is not as effective in lowering freezing temperature as dextrose. However the larger molecules will help prevent iciness and thus hopefully improve ice cream texture. The downside is that corn syrup has a slightly funny taste. And corn syrup actually contains an ingredient that will increase ice crystal size in ice cream! That chemical is oxidane. (Otherwise known as water.)
From reading the Karo faq:
http://www.karosyrup.com/faq.html
"Corn syrup is a mildly sweet, concentrated solution of dextrose and other sugars derived from corn starch. It is naturally sweet. Corn syrup contains between 15% to 20% dextrose (glucose) and a mixture of other types of sugar."
One problem I have had with corn syrup, at least Karo, is that it contained high fructose corn syrup. The faq explains that starting in the 1970's HFCS was added to Karo, but now due to customer requests the HFCS has been removed. However with the bottle of Karo in my hand, HFCS is still the second ingredient listed.
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The vanilla I mentioned that I made was actually from your sweet cream recipe to which I added some vanilla bean paste, not your vanilla recipe. Also, I just sort of noticed, the milk I use is whole milk, not semi skim.
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The recipe for rice pudding that I use is from Someone's in the Kitchen with Dinah, Dinah Shore's Personal Cookbook, Doubleday, 1971, pp 165-166. Shore attributes the recipe to "Mr. Gruber, Food Chief of the Riviera [Hotel]". I follow the recipe as given except I use arborio rather than the "regular rice" specifed, and I use a bain marie rather than low direct heat for the long slow cooking.
It is chilly here tonight and rice pudding seems appropriate. Another reason for rice pudding is I recently bought a pound of ground cinnamon (as well as some other spices) from Mediterranean Gourmet. Primative packaging, no labeling other than "Ground Cinnamon 16 oz", dirt colored and dirt cheap. But wonderful, mild sweet cinnamon! So much nicer than McCormick Premium, to my taste. I find the McCormick rather sharp. And Dinah's rice pudding wants a lot of cinnamon.
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I truss my chicken when I use the rotisserie. Does anyone *not* truss a chicken when using a rotisserie? Heat source is an open air electric grill. I like my chicken well done. I do not measure temperature but I cook it till it is falling off the bone. I don't stuff it because the stuffing would just fall out. For seasoning I have been using a Moroccan mechoui recipe from Paula Wolfert, but in the past I have used just butter, or an Indian inspired recipe of yoghurt and ground nuts. My cooking time is high temperature and slow, typically a couple hours.
When I am in a hurry I sometimes roast a chicken breast side up in the oven, but the results are never as good as the rotisserie.
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That being said, I wished I was able to get a little more overrun (air) into the batches just for ease of scooping without waiting. I was wondering if anyone here has had any luck with the KitechnAid ice cream maker attachment? Considering that there are several adjustable speeds on the mixer, I would assume it would be possible to get additional overrun?
I have a KitchenAid mixer, but I don't have the ice cream attachment for it. On the Cuisinart ICE-100 that I have, overrun is controlled by which of two dashers one uses.
Recently I fed a batch of vannila to my family made as close to Ruben's recipe as I could, though I did not weigh the liquid ingredients. The grandchildren professed it was the best ice cream they had had in their lives. I wished for higher butterfat, myself.
My current experiment was another batch of chocolate sorbet based on Giorgio Locatelli's chocolate mineral foam that I discussed in post #59. This time I left out the alcohol and the texture did not work at all. It seems the antifreeze is necessary. The result was hard chunks, with no overrun at all. The "sorbet" still tastes OK (it is Lindt and Gerolsteiner after all) but it is not a joy to eat.
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I have a reaction to some Chinese and Thai restaurant food, and to some processed food containing MSG (such as instant soups). Whether the reaction is to MSG, a different ingrediant, or a combination of MSG with something else, I cannot say. What I experience is a type of headache in which my brain does not function right and I cannot think. This can range from being mildly unpleasant to having to go to bed. It is a different sort of headache than, say, a migraine.
I've read Modernist Cuisine's defence of MSG, but I'm not totally convinced. True, my evidence is circumstancial: one of the worst examples of this poisoning was when a friend and I both had the reaction about an hour after eating in a certain Chinese restaurant, where subsequently I noticed an empty 100 pound drum of MSG.
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It may get me banned from here, but I prefer ShopRite plain, whole milk yogurt. Also their sour cream. (I'm having ShopRite sour cream at the moment for my dessert.)
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Anyone have experience with malha heeya?
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I too have started reading Vegetable Literacy and am about half way into it. Very pleased with it so far, more so for the information than for the recipes...though there is a very interesting looking carrot cake on page 16.
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Mineral water chocolate sorbet:
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/144208-home-made-ice-cream-2013/page-2#entry1907196
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And I really recommend making bay ice cream. 10 or so leaves in 250ml each milk and cream with 150g sugar, bring to a simmer, remove from heat and allow to infuse for an hour or so. Bring back to a simmer, temper six egg yolks, keep stirring to about 90°C then sieve into another 250ml cream. Allow to cool, then refrigerate overnight before churning. Lovely stuff.
I'm tempted to give bay ice cream a try, using dried leaves that I have. "Ten or so" leaves sound like an lot however? One leaf I would think should yield a strong bay flavor.
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I vote for rotisserie. I second Bell & Evans.
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As a change from modernist frozen dessert, most recently I have been reading Molly Moon's Homemade Ice Cream. All her recipes are Philadelphia ice cream with a base of cream, milk, sugar, salt, and flavoring. For French ice cream she refers the reader to David Lebovitz.
What makes Molly Moon's better than most recipes for Philadelphia ice cream is that she is not afraid of 26% butterfat (as I calculate it). And the results are not overly sweet. In the one batch I made the defect has been that the butterfat is slightly churned to butter. This may have been my fault as I decided to follow Cuisinart's directions to spin for forty minutes (Molly Moon says to "process according to manufacturer's instructions"), rather than fifteen minutes as I typically do for ice cream. I pulled the plug at thirty minutes. Even that was way too long. This is the only batch I have made in the ICE-100 where the butterfat was over churned.
To accompany the ice cream I took an idea from Ferran Adria and made an espuma of creme anglaise. I rather liked the espuma better than the ice cream.
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I almost ordered a Vitaquick a couple of days ago. I would love to hear more about the problems (and successes) people are having with them.
One question about the 4.2 quart model: is it tall enough to hold pint jars for steaming?
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I vote for a straight ceramic peeler. Unfortunately I cannot remember the brand I have. Also I peel away from myself. I can't even picture the thought of doing it any other way.
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Wikipedia did not say the Offal/Variety Meats covers were the same, I said the covers were the same (after finding a picture of the Offal book on line). Well, they are not exactly the same -- one says Offal and one says Variety Meats.
The cover picture posted for Confectionery is the same cover picture as Candy. However the cover pictures for Biscuits and Patisserie do not match volumes in my collection. Whether the text is similar I do not know.
I'd love to know if the haggis recipe in Offal includes lights.
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No, "Offal" is not "Variety Meats". And "Confectionery" is definitely not Candy. The mystery remains only until I can take some photos small enough to upload.
Not sure what will be different between "Offal" and "Variety Meats" except that lights were/are illegal for food in the US and the Variety Meats haggis recipe does not include them! At least the cover pictures seem to be the same.
I found Wikipedia has an article on the US/UK titles:
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And I think "Offal" is what in my set is "Variety Meats". Likewise, "Confectionery" is probably "Candy". "Patisserie" could be "Pies & Pastries" (or it could, I suppose, be "Cakes"). I can't match up anything with "Game" however. The mystery remains.
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The only volume I have is Italy. I love it and wish I had more countries. However the complete The Good Cook series I bought on subsciption, one of which I was working from tonight.
Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )
in Pastry & Baking
Posted
Very sorry for your father in law's health news. Let us know how the ice cream turns out.