weinoo

I think if you're wondering whether it's rancid, it's rancid.

Then I haven't been to that one! I'm pretty sure I've been to Viet Royale, though. I'm a big fan of the quail appetizers.

This morning's much better results... Mixed up the same recipe as listed on the Bob's Red Mill bag, except using this... My semi-trusty Chinese All-Clad non-stick griddle pan... And... Pretty tasty, though I'd like to bump up the corniness. I guess some fresh kernels wouldn't hurt.

I enjoy the Eden Center greatly on my forays into the 'burbs when I go down to DC. That said, I don't know if I remember the names of the restaurants I've tried in the center, but I'm pretty sure I've tried both Viet Huong and Viet Bistro. If I could only remember which was which, and which one I liked better. In any event, the Eden Center is worth a stop for everything listed above, because it really makes you feel like you've entered an alternate universe. Just don't do any gambling...

I think there's some of that happening now, with perhaps more to come. There is a bartender whose name escapes me at the moment who is Japanese and, at least the two times I've been in, has been working the second of the two bars. And last night we did try the Kinkakuji, made with Yamazaki 12yo, Arrack, Plantation OP, pineapple juice, clarified milk, coconut water, Japanese 8 spices and Tamaryokucha green tea...and that's a mouthful and goes down way too easy.

In order to continue establishing a relationship with the bartender(s), I had to return last night, since a friend and I were practically around the corner at a gallery opening. I might've found a new favorite cocktail, as the Noblesse Oblige was the first drink I tried on this second visit. Cognac based, with both Pedro Ximenez and Del Maguey as sidekicks, it's another one of Nicolas' fine, fine cocktails. It'll probably stay on the menu, though he did say that he finds people here shying away from Cognac cocktails, which is a big mistake, in my opinion. My friend started off with the Black Heart and immediately pronounced it his "new favorite drink." He also tried the L'Américain, the drink served in the bottle and pictured in my first post, and they've got the carbonation level up to where it should be and making the drink that much tastier. They're not heading off-menu much at this point, though Aaron was kind enough to mix me up a boozy Vieux Carré. Comp Disclosure: A round.

Today's NY Times has a piece about a man in Korea who started a sturgeon farm 15 years ago with 200 pregnant sturgeon that he brought to that country from Russia. He started harvesting the roe in 2009, and it appears as if his investment in both money and time is paying off, as today he has well over 50,000 sturgeon. He is able to harvest sustainably without killing the fish, which is evidently the traditional method of harvesting sturgeon eggs. Has anyone tried the product? Also, it sounds like a brilliant idea. Kudos to Mr. Han.

Funny thing, Nicolas told me that during the first weekend of service, even he was having trouble remembering what and how much of each ingredient went into each cocktail. Obviously, some of those ingredients are used in very small quantities. But they are some tasty drinks.

If only...

Last night, a friend and I paid our first visit to the recently opened ECC, another branch of the cocktail lounge that first took Paris by storm in 2007 (following that with an ECC in London). ECC is in the old Kush space, a lounge that I was never fortunate enough to (or, fortunate enough to never) set foot in. What's interesting is that the Paris ECC was modeled after the new wave of cocktail lounges that were opening in NYC and now NYC's ECC kind of looks like the type of lounge you might find in Paris. If you think this is confusing, it's not - our ECC is absolutely gorgeous inside, designed by the wife of one of the owner's; lots of French flea market finds, and I wish my living room looked like this. My pictures do not do it justice... The back bar is nice too... And the glassware, at least for now (because we all know what happens when the stems start breaking) is great... That was my first cocktail, called Black Heart, from Joseph Akhavan at La Conserverie in Paris, and it's made of Buffalo Trace bourbon, Cynar, Luxardo Maraschino, a touch of French Roast Coffee, Bitterman's Boston Bittahs, a Laphroaig rinse and orange oils. A real winner, balanced as can be. My drinking companion started with the L'Americain: artichoke infused NP Sweet Vermouth, toasted walnut infused Campari, thyme water, orange oils - all of which is carbonated and bottled and served like this... Which will be perfect for when those kids pour in on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights and can't hold a glass. The drink is damn good, though it probably can use, and probably will get, some more carbonation. I followed up with a classic Manhattan, and it was nice to be asked by my bartender (Aaron, iirc) whether I wanted a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio - I'm a classicist, so my 2:1 Rittenhouse Manhattan was just how I like it. My buddy moved on to a drink called The Artist: Drouin Calvados, verjus, pear and apple cider shrub, Peychaud's, Didier Meuzard Ratafia, Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe and Billecart-Salmon Champagne to top it all off - wowser. Many of the drinks are creations of the bar manager Nicolas de Soto, a Frenchman who now lives most of the time just off of Avenue B. Some of you may have seen him behind the stick occasionally at Dram - I know I had. Nicolas' drinks are pretty complex, lots of infusions, but as I said above, balanced and delicious. He'll be working the bar here some nights, and overseeing the show all the time - a true gentleman who is as nice as can be. Okay, okay - we did have a third round; after all, we were checking the place out. By this point, the place was filling up, and Xavier was working our end of one of two bars. He's a 7-year alumnus of Daniel, and quite the pro. So, the appropriately named The Last One: Cardinal Mendoza Brandy, Bonal Gentiane, Cocchi Barolo Chinato and Akanono carrot Shochu. Simple, and practically an aperitif, no? And the Curious Prescription, a tequila/mezcal lover's dream: Pueblo Viejo Reposado, Pukhart Pear Eau-de-Vie, La Cigarerra Manzanilla Sherry, housemade salted mezcal caramel syrup, lime juice and Bittermen's Habanero bitters. Food will be soon to come; bar snacks, and they will be supplied by The Fat Radish, another one of my neighborhood faves. I expect, and have heard from Nicolas, that ECC was already packed on the weekends...and will continue to be so. Doesn't matter to me, though - I rarely go out for drinks on Friday or Saturday nights - and if we do, it'll be earlier than the throngs. And here's a tip to all the kiddies - if you want cranberry juice in your drinks, go soon. From what I've heard, it won't be available for long and if it stays on the menu, you may be paying a pretty premium for it. Have a real cocktail. Comp Disclosure: Had to be a drink or two in there.

Seattle import Via Tribunali opened about 6 weeks ago, and the other night I went for a second visit. There's certainly been a marked improvement in the pie; the crust showed some nice char, a lot more oven spring, and the toppings are impressive. Super friendly servers make for a nice meal. Sitting in the front room is decidedly uncomfortable and the chairs make me yearn for the original seating at Momofuku Noodle Bar.

A new shop, Malt & Mold, has opened on the farthest reaches of the lower east side. To be precise, at 221 East Broadway, just north of Clinton Street - and right next to Push Cart Coffee, my local purveyor of all things Stumptown. I swung in briefly yesterday; for now they are carrying a nice selection of cheeses, Sullivan Street Bakery stuff and a few items of porky provenance. They are awaiting their license to sell growlers; according to the owners Kevin and Cha Cha, the license should be in tomorrow. Assorted canned and jarred products, with more to come all around. Great addition to my local hood.

New York's (Syracuse and NYC) Dinosaur Barbecue is opening adjacent to the sports arena in Newark. Official opening is next week. They were serving free somethings or other last night before the Springsteen show, but I (we) didn't feel like dealing with the insane mob scene, nor having to listen to the "B Street Band," who were playing quite close-by to Dinosaur's set up. Looks like a good get for Dinosaur and for Newark as well.

Well, who hasn't Bourdain gone after? Isn't that his raison d'etre, after all? My wife, Sneakeater and I once had a bit of an "issue" with Mr. Bastianich, right after (the first) John Dory opened.

There's a new book out by Joe Bastianich - Restaurant Man. It's his memoir. Now, first of all, isn't a memoir usually written when one is towards the end of the journey? Second, it has created quite the feud with Esquire's John Mariani. Third - anyone planning on reading it?

I wouldn't even consider DiFara's thin crust. And wouldn't you have to compare Pepe's with NYC coal-oven pizza for an accurate comparison?

We've had good pizza at Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur.

Sorry, but I don't think that's what it means.

But...aren't they? Does any other city know for either its bagels or its pizza have the same quality municipal water? Montreal, at least on the bagels end of it. I'd say that the NYC water/bagels thing is definitely a myth. Montreal bagels are, in my opinion, quite less than delicious. But the bagel thing goes beyond water. It goes to the size of bagels now, and making bagels without boiling them.

Oh, I didn't see your post above. Pepe's seriously uses NYC tap water? Any proof of that?

Thanks. I was waiting for that. Do you know what kind of water they're using?

As a matter of fact, I just pulled out 4 bread baking books. Each and every one discusses tap water, and without getting into too many details, discusses the use of bottled and/or purified water if the muni water is too hard, too soft, too chlorinated, or too crappy to drink. NYC water is none of those.

While there might be one pizza place in Arizona that is, on occasion, better than most of the pizza here in NYC, on an overall basis, I have a feeling the pizza in NY is better than that in Arizona, California (where?) and Connecticut. As far as evidence for water goes, here's what's happening at Bianco: So he's not using unadulterated muni water. Nancy Silverton has always promoted the use of bottled or purified water. If you've ever tasted the water from the tap in Southern California, you're not drinking it and you're not using it like that for cooking. "The pizza is better in Connecticut" is just a blanket statement that makes zero sense. I have heard no evidence for that proposition. Often, I hear that the pizza in Connecticut isn't all it's cranked up to be and not worth the schlep.

But...aren't they? Does any other city know for either its bagels or its pizza have the same quality municipal water?

That's how I like mine - with the M&R and the NP. But I haven't given Peychaud's a try yet; that's next.