Dave the Cook

Tonkatsu Sauce Marlene reported about this on her Christmas Blog. Marlene's notes: A word about the sauce. I've been making a ketchup based sauce which we liked. Dave the Cook persuded me to try a new sauce and in keeping with experiment week, I agreed. In a word, wow. This sauce is spicy and very different from the the sauce I usually make. It was an instant hit in the house. I had doubts when I saw the ingredients, but it was totally awesome. 1/4 c chopped, dried apple slices 1/4 c chopped onion 1/4 c minced fresh ginger 1 tsp vegetable oil 1/4 c raisins, soaked in mirin or dry sherry to cover 1/2 c mirin, or 1/4 C dry sherry plus 1/4 C white wine 1 c soy sauce 1. Saute the apple, onion and ginger in the oil until soft but not browned. 2. Add the mirin (or sherry-wine mixture) and reduce by half. (It will look almost like syrup.) 3. Turn everything (don't forget the raisins) into a blender or food processor. Add the soy sauce and blend until smooth. edited to add: I just noticed that I misread the ingredients for this sauce when I made it. I used fresh minced garlic instead of onion. Of course, you'd really have to like garlic to use a 1/4 cup of garlic instead of onion, but we liked it! ( RG1209 )

Tonkatsu Sauce Marlene reported about this on her Christmas Blog. Marlene's notes: A word about the sauce. I've been making a ketchup based sauce which we liked. Dave the Cook persuded me to try a new sauce and in keeping with experiment week, I agreed. In a word, wow. This sauce is spicy and very different from the the sauce I usually make. It was an instant hit in the house. I had doubts when I saw the ingredients, but it was totally awesome. 1/4 c chopped, dried apple slices 1/4 c chopped onion 1/4 c minced fresh ginger 1 tsp vegetable oil 1/4 c raisins, soaked in mirin or dry sherry to cover 1/2 c mirin, or 1/4 C dry sherry plus 1/4 C white wine 1 c soy sauce 1. Saute the apple, onion and ginger in the oil until soft but not browned. 2. Add the mirin (or sherry-wine mixture) and reduce by half. (It will look almost like syrup.) 3. Turn everything (don't forget the raisins) into a blender or food processor. Add the soy sauce and blend until smooth. edited to add: I just noticed that I misread the ingredients for this sauce when I made it. I used fresh minced garlic instead of onion. Of course, you'd really have to like garlic to use a 1/4 cup of garlic instead of onion, but we liked it! ( RG1209 )

Maybe this will help: the Society portal isn't the same thing as the Daily Gullet, alhough the portal features three Daily Gullet excerpts at any given time, along with links to other eG Forum and Society activities (the clue here is that the portal banner says "eGullet Society, etc.") The Daily Gullet proper resides in its own forum (with its own banner), and that is where the link takes you. Easily fixed, you know . . .

That will take you to the Daily Gullet forum. To get to the portal -- the home page of the Society -- click on the "Home" link at the extreme upper left of any page.

Post-Christmas Oakville Gumbo Marlene made this on her food blog, and provided a nice Pictoral Essay. This would also make a wonderful post-Thanksgiving Oakville Gumbo. I'm hoping you have some smoked sausage left over from the dressing. Eight to 12 ounces is optimal, but this kind of cooking is about making do with what you have. You can supplement with ham, or peameal bacon (Cajun-Canadian fusion!), for that matter. (If you use the bacon, adjust the salt in the recipe accordingly.) Stock: 1 turkey carcass, stripped of most of its meat (including the wings in the stock is a really good idea) 1 bay leaf 1/2 tsp rubbed sage 1/2 tsp salt, plus additional for final adjusting Gumbo: 8 oz (by weight) or 1-1/2 C all-purpose flour 1-1/4 c vegetable oil (peanut, if you've got it) 8 oz smoked sausage (andouille preferred, but kielbasa works well, too), in 1/2-inch slices 1 c chopped onion (about 1 medium) 1/2 c chopped red (preferred) or green bell pepper (about 1/2 medium) 1/2 c chopped celery (about 2 stalks) 1 T chopped garlic (3-4 medium cloves) 3 or 4 green onions, chopped, divided into white and green (the green is for garnish, so it's best to leave them intact until you're ready to serve, or they'll wilt) 1 lb turkey meat, cooked and shredded I prefer mostly dark meat for this, and I bet Brooks does, too) 1 bay leaf Seasoning mix: 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp ground white pepper 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 1/2 tsp cayenne 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp rubbed sage 1/4 tsp mustard powder Rice (de rigeur with gumbo) 1. Break the carcass down as far as you can: remove the wings and break them into sections (don't forget the tips); cut or tear the breastbone from the backbone; break the backbone into three or four sections; save the thigh and leg bones from dinner -- crack (or hack) them in two. 2. Put the bones in a large pot. Add 1/2 t salt, a bay leaf and sage, and cover with water. Bring slowly to a simmer, and keep it there for two hours or more, adding water to keep the bones covered. The longer you can let this go, the better, up to the point where the bones themselves start to fall apart. 3. Strain the stock through four layers of cheesecloth and chill it. Skim the fat off, and reduce the stock to two quarts. 4. In another large pot, heat the oil (supplement with up to 1/2 turkey fat) until shimmering. Brown the sausage over medium heat and remove to paper towels with a slotted spoon. 5. Add all the flour at once. Stir to combine into a roux, lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring constantly, until it's the color of peanut butter. 5. Add the onion, celery and bell pepper, along with half of the seasoning mix. Saute over medium heat until the vegetables are slightly soft, about five minutes. Add the other bay leaf, the white part of the green onion and the garlic. Stir to combine. 6. Add the stock, about a half-cup at a time to start, whisking constantly. (As you incorporate more stock, you can add larger amounts.) Bring the soup to a boil, and simmer for about an hour. 7. Check the seasoning. Add more of the spice mix to taste. Add the sausage and the turkey. Simmer for another 30 minutes, until the sausage is tender and heated through. Remove bay leaf. Adjust salt and pepper. 8. Serve over rice in a soup bowl. Garnish with the green onion, er, greens. Keywords: Soup, Main Dish, Vegetarian, Turkey ( RG1180 )

Post-Christmas Oakville Gumbo Marlene made this on her food blog, and provided a nice Pictoral Essay. This would also make a wonderful post-Thanksgiving Oakville Gumbo. I'm hoping you have some smoked sausage left over from the dressing. Eight to 12 ounces is optimal, but this kind of cooking is about making do with what you have. You can supplement with ham, or peameal bacon (Cajun-Canadian fusion!), for that matter. (If you use the bacon, adjust the salt in the recipe accordingly.) Stock: 1 turkey carcass, stripped of most of its meat (including the wings in the stock is a really good idea) 1 bay leaf 1/2 tsp rubbed sage 1/2 tsp salt, plus additional for final adjusting Gumbo: 8 oz (by weight) or 1-1/2 C all-purpose flour 1-1/4 c vegetable oil (peanut, if you've got it) 8 oz smoked sausage (andouille preferred, but kielbasa works well, too), in 1/2-inch slices 1 c chopped onion (about 1 medium) 1/2 c chopped red (preferred) or green bell pepper (about 1/2 medium) 1/2 c chopped celery (about 2 stalks) 1 T chopped garlic (3-4 medium cloves) 3 or 4 green onions, chopped, divided into white and green (the green is for garnish, so it's best to leave them intact until you're ready to serve, or they'll wilt) 1 lb turkey meat, cooked and shredded I prefer mostly dark meat for this, and I bet Brooks does, too) 1 bay leaf Seasoning mix: 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp ground white pepper 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 1/2 tsp cayenne 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp rubbed sage 1/4 tsp mustard powder Rice (de rigeur with gumbo) 1. Break the carcass down as far as you can: remove the wings and break them into sections (don't forget the tips); cut or tear the breastbone from the backbone; break the backbone into three or four sections; save the thigh and leg bones from dinner -- crack (or hack) them in two. 2. Put the bones in a large pot. Add 1/2 t salt, a bay leaf and sage, and cover with water. Bring slowly to a simmer, and keep it there for two hours or more, adding water to keep the bones covered. The longer you can let this go, the better, up to the point where the bones themselves start to fall apart. 3. Strain the stock through four layers of cheesecloth and chill it. Skim the fat off, and reduce the stock to two quarts. 4. In another large pot, heat the oil (supplement with up to 1/2 turkey fat) until shimmering. Brown the sausage over medium heat and remove to paper towels with a slotted spoon. 5. Add all the flour at once. Stir to combine into a roux, lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring constantly, until it's the color of peanut butter. 5. Add the onion, celery and bell pepper, along with half of the seasoning mix. Saute over medium heat until the vegetables are slightly soft, about five minutes. Add the other bay leaf, the white part of the green onion and the garlic. Stir to combine. 6. Add the stock, about a half-cup at a time to start, whisking constantly. (As you incorporate more stock, you can add larger amounts.) Bring the soup to a boil, and simmer for about an hour. 7. Check the seasoning. Add more of the spice mix to taste. Add the sausage and the turkey. Simmer for another 30 minutes, until the sausage is tender and heated through. Remove bay leaf. Adjust salt and pepper. 8. Serve over rice in a soup bowl. Garnish with the green onion, er, greens. Keywords: Soup, Main Dish, Vegetarian, Turkey ( RG1180 )

I want to thank everyone for their kind comments. I hope we live up to the expectations we've so cleverly planted. Just to be clear, nothing this big (okay, it's big to us) happens without a tremendous amount of assistance. Despite Steven's backhanded demurrer, he provided inspiration and freedom. Jason was invaluable in clearing the technological path. Janet (JAZ) and Maggie pitched in at the last minute. And of course, Marlene was there every step of the way, helping form and refine the vision, refining the proposal, and making sure things stayed on track. My thanks to all of them. And to you. We expect submissions on our desks in the morning.

We will be posting submission guidelines and a style guide within the next week. In the meantime, please don't send queries to me. Send them to dailygullet@egullet.org. Thanks.

Fried Chicken (adapted for deep frying) Marlene made this recipe and reported in her Food Blog. Fried chicken is near and dear to the hearts of eGullet Society members, as evidenced in the multi-page Fried Chicken thread. 1 3-1/2 pound chicken, cut into ten pieces: two legs, two thighs, two wings, two breasts halved crosswise; skin intact if possible 1 qt low-fat cultured buttermilk 1 c Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or 3/4 C Morton’s kosher salt, or 1/2 C table salt; it really doesn’t matter, except kosher salt dissolves easier) 2 T lemon juice 1 tsp pepper sauce 2 T seasoning mix (see below) 2 c flour Seasoning mix 2 T sweet paprika 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp ground ancho chile 1 tsp ground black pepper 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp cayenne 1/2 tsp granulated garlic 1/2 tsp granulated onion 1. Pour one quart very hot tap water in a large bowl. Whisk in the salt, lemon juice and pepper sauce. Add one quart of ice water, and stir to blend. 2. Place chicken in brine for three hours, turning pieces every 45 minutes. 3. Drain chicken and rinse. Pour buttermilk into bowl, and add chicken. Cover and refrigerate for at least six hours, and up to 24. Turn chicken every once in a while. 4. Drain chicken in a colander -- but don't rinse it -- then lay out on a rack over a sheet pan (or lay the rack right over the sink, if you can). 5. Start heating the oil to 365 F. Put the flour in a heavy paper bag (authentic) or a zip-lock bag (easier). Get another rack and sheet pan ready, or lay out a good-sized sheet of waxed paper or parchment. 6. Sprinkle the chicken with seasoning mix on all sides. 7. Two or three pieces at a time, either drop the chicken in the bag and shake to coat. As each piece is floured, remove it to the second rack or the paper. 8. Heat oven to 170 F, and set a sheet pan with a rack on the middle oven rack. (If you’re like most people, you’ll have to wash and dry the first one.) 9. When the chicken is dry (or nearly so) and the oil is hot, fry the chicken three or four pieces (as long as the fryer isn’t crowded) at a time, about 15 minutes, to an internal temperature of 160 F for breasts, and 170 F for thighs. Fry the thighs and legs first, then breasts, then wings. As the pieces are done, put them on the rack in the oven, and leave the oven door open a crack. Keywords: Main Dish, Lunch, Vegetarian, Dinner, Chicken, Breakfast ( RG1172 )

Fried Chicken (adapted for deep frying) Marlene made this recipe and reported in her Food Blog. Fried chicken is near and dear to the hearts of eGullet Society members, as evidenced in the multi-page Fried Chicken thread. 1 3-1/2 pound chicken, cut into ten pieces: two legs, two thighs, two wings, two breasts halved crosswise; skin intact if possible 1 qt low-fat cultured buttermilk 1 c Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or 3/4 C Morton’s kosher salt, or 1/2 C table salt; it really doesn’t matter, except kosher salt dissolves easier) 2 T lemon juice 1 tsp pepper sauce 2 T seasoning mix (see below) 2 c flour Seasoning mix 2 T sweet paprika 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp ground ancho chile 1 tsp ground black pepper 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp cayenne 1/2 tsp granulated garlic 1/2 tsp granulated onion 1. Pour one quart very hot tap water in a large bowl. Whisk in the salt, lemon juice and pepper sauce. Add one quart of ice water, and stir to blend. 2. Place chicken in brine for three hours, turning pieces every 45 minutes. 3. Drain chicken and rinse. Pour buttermilk into bowl, and add chicken. Cover and refrigerate for at least six hours, and up to 24. Turn chicken every once in a while. 4. Drain chicken in a colander -- but don't rinse it -- then lay out on a rack over a sheet pan (or lay the rack right over the sink, if you can). 5. Start heating the oil to 365 F. Put the flour in a heavy paper bag (authentic) or a zip-lock bag (easier). Get another rack and sheet pan ready, or lay out a good-sized sheet of waxed paper or parchment. 6. Sprinkle the chicken with seasoning mix on all sides. 7. Two or three pieces at a time, either drop the chicken in the bag and shake to coat. As each piece is floured, remove it to the second rack or the paper. 8. Heat oven to 170 F, and set a sheet pan with a rack on the middle oven rack. (If you’re like most people, you’ll have to wash and dry the first one.) 9. When the chicken is dry (or nearly so) and the oil is hot, fry the chicken three or four pieces (as long as the fryer isn’t crowded) at a time, about 15 minutes, to an internal temperature of 160 F for breasts, and 170 F for thighs. Fry the thighs and legs first, then breasts, then wings. As the pieces are done, put them on the rack in the oven, and leave the oven door open a crack. Keywords: Main Dish, Lunch, Vegetarian, Dinner, Chicken, Breakfast ( RG1172 )

← This is the problem I always have in New Orleans: go to Upperline first, just as a reminder of how great food and hospitality can be; or last, so that the rest of the trip isn't a bit of a letdown. I know, the solution is obvious.

While no one was looking, Adam Gopnik decided all on his own (in the 4 April edition of the New Yorker) to plop Fat Guy in the midst of Chelminsky, Reichl and the new Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. Read it here, but hurry; the New Yorker rotates their stuff weekly.

Mine started out as Jinmyo's, actually. I think she specified tamarind, which I couldn't find the first time I went to make it, so I improvised, and ended up with this one. If you use fresh apples, you might want to add an equal part of apple juice to the liquids, and reduce by two-thirds. That's what I'd try, anyway.

I used to have a good one, but I gave it to Marlene.

We've had some unexpected delays. The class will officially start on March 7th, but there's a long list of supplies, and a two-day task that needs to be completed before the start, so you're going to need some time to prepare. We'll post details about both shortly. Thanks for your patience.

I suggest you read Jack's eGCI course (linked above). Be sure to check out the photos of his "gray yucky product."

Suggest one, if you please.

You might want to check out the community education program at the Art Institute of Atlanta: Smart Fun. While not held in the same esteem as the CIA, the Art Institutes are serious, well-equipped, accredited schools with enviable placement rates. I've never taken classes there, but people I know that have have been pleased.

As it happens, these same two pots were just discussed over in Marlene's Pot Roast topic.

A well-drained can of Ro-Tel tomatoes is a nice change of pace when stirred (or layered) into macaroni and cheese.

My first Cajun cookbook was Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen, and though it's tattered and sprung, I still refer to it regularly. Real and Rustic is a terrific book, and also one of my favorites. But in rare disagreement with Brooks, I think New New Orleans Cooking, while not authentic and down-home, is the book that made Emeril worth listening to, and still does. Cuisine needn't be bound by tradition. It must be informed by it, but it can also evolve. NNOC brings the world to Cajun and Creole. Louisiana -- and the world -- is better for it.

The garbanzos, mushrooms and generous tomatoes definitely tag it as a midwestern variant. But Cincinnati chili (which owes as much or more to Europe as it does to Texas) is peculiar, even for the heartland. It includes vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, cloves, and allspice or cinnamon; uses ground beef instead of chopped or chunked; omits the tomatoes; and is invariably served on some sort of pasta -- usually macaroni or spaghetti -- with oyster crackers as a garnish.

If you're going to braise, brown it. If you're doing a straight roast, it's not necessary. Even at a low temperature, the outside gets golden and crispy. Just make sure to salt the exterior generously.

I turn it. Partly it makes sense to me, since it's only half-covered, and it seems like the whole roast should be treated more or less the same. Since you've got it out of the oven anyway, you have an opportunity to take its temperature -- a much better indicator for doneness than time. I'll also lodge a protest against that netting. I've managed to forget to think about where the elastic properties come from (I suppose it could be some sort of knitted cotton). Instead, it irritates me because it makes the butcher's job easier and the cook's harder. Even if you don't buy the propostition that it makes browning more difficult (though that seems apparent to me), it's a pain to remove for service, and it tends to take a good bit of the meat surface with it. I get rid of it and retie the roast before searing.

Geez, Marlene. Aren't you going to tell us which pot you'll be using? (Pot roast on the menu here, too -- done in a 3-quart saute pan.)