trillium

Fannie Merrit Farmer's book (originally The Boston Cooking School Book) revolutionized the way cookery books were written. I believe in the late 1800-1900s it was actually translated into several other languages, due to popular demand. If you read the old Joy of Cooking book you'll see how much they borrowed from Fannie Farmer. The modern FF book is a nice resource. I'll admit I use it more for the baking stuff like cookies and cakes, but her gravlax recipe is fantastic, the yeasted waffles are the best tasting waffles I've ever had and I love the conversion charts and information about American things I don't know how to cook because I don't cook them very often, like steaks. Sure, if I cooked them every month I'd know by now how long a steak of a certain thickness takes to reach med-rare, but since I do it once a year it's nice to have it right there in a cookbook. Read what Marion writes about her here. regards, trillium

I don't, sorry. The only ones I've used are those that you use on the stovetop. It's what we used all the time before I got the Olympia Cremina. I drink tea when I'm on the road. regards, trillium

I've spent a lot of time searching the FDA and USDA websites and coming up with crap. I sent of a few emails using my professional sig line and didn't get any reply. My dealings with the CDC have been a piece of cake compared to getting the actual story from the USDA directly. regards, trillium

I've seen two places online that carry them and I've heard rumors that they're popping up again in Asian grocery stores, plus we've had a spotting in NYC. At Adriana's Caravan they're very expensive, but present, click here. And they're also at the CMC company, click here. Maybe it's time to buy the Dunlop book... regards, trillium

I hope that you fellows are a little more inventive in RL than you're letting on, because your, um, comments are lacking in the creativity department. But enough about sex and onto coffee. What about Mokas? They get no respect from the OCD geek gadget crowd, who can spend days discussing a 15 vs and 18 degree angle when you hone a knife, but they deserve more attention. When properly made, a shot of coffee from a moka can be a beautiful thing, not espresso and not drip, but it's very own catagory. And they have a pretty steep learning curve too, which gives you plenty of parameters to fool around with to aquire the finesse necessary for the nicest cup, while sidestepping the whole costly long-handled tool/recepticle issue. If you feel like it's not going to give you enough macho geek cred I'm sure you can always talk up theory, actual technique and results with the best of the espresso wonks. There's no need to feel inferior, I think they're harder to get the hang of than a proper espresso machine. Didn't Craig write a piece on one? regards, trillium

I hope you're not too disappointed with your cider... we had so much success with our ales, lagers (yes, you can do it without special equipment but you need to live somewhere where winters are cold enough) and fruit wines we decided to do a cider. We used a a wyeast for cider (don't remember which one, I think it was the sweet one) and it fermented to stone dry, so that all that was left was the citric acid. Very tasty mixed with other things (fresh apple juice or a dry sour cherry wine) but not so palatable on its own. I guess they pasteurize the bottles in Normandy after they've allowed the yeast enough time to carbonate the cider but not enough time to run through all the sugars. Those yeast are crazy buggars. regards, trillium

They're here in Portland, but New Seasons has a good produce buyer. They weren't my favorite, I like something a little more aromatic and tart, but they are a nice apple. regards, trillium

The Mallory is the favorite of all the hotels I've stayed in in the US, but I like quirky. I mostly liked that the rooms had real furniture and bed linens, not hotelish. Never ate there. I don't love the food at Higgins the way Jim does. I've eaten in the bar 3 or 4 times and the restaurant once. It's been underwhelming to me. As for the burger, if I'm going to pay 10 bucks for a hamburger, I want fried potato products, damn it, not mesclun. However, we frequently end up there for a drink when we're downtown at night waiting for the next bus. I like the bar as a bar a lot. Quietish but not stuffy, no tvs, no smoke, rare Belgians on tap, good bourbon = perfect. regards, trillium

I'm telling you POM people...Trader Joe's 100% Pom juice: under $4 for 32 oz. regards, trillium

I'm with you on the acid part. I can drink tea from green to thick and creamy without any effects on the stomach, while the partner, who grew up drinking plenty of tea (oolongs mostly) can't stomach green teas or Darjeeling’s when he's running on empty. I always chalked it up to acidity and different guts. While we're doing setups...I guess we fall in the like it both ways (tea and coffee) camp. Olympia Cremina circa early '80s Salton hourglass shaped cast iron hand held burr grinder circa 70's (maybe older, it's a hand-me-down) 2 10 c Chatsfords, 1 bright yellow and one bright red 1 6 c Chatsford, green 1 travel Chatsford kit that fits in my Nissan travel mug 1 Russell Hobbs electric kettle We don't need to confess anything about cups and other accoutrements, right? regards, trillium

I pretty much like whatever happens to be in my cupboard at the moment, I haven't really met a bourbon I didn't like. Maker's Mark is always around for mixing and then there's always a bottle of something for sipping straight. Right now I have Old Rip Van Winkle Handmade Bourbon 15 yo and Blanton's. I find some of the overproof bourbons taste better with a splash of water in them, they're too hot for me to enjoy sipping straight. regards, trillium

Gin for clear drinks, bourbon or rye for whiskey drinks. Good scotch is wasted on me, I don't care for it enough for its price. I'd probably take a middle bourbon over a high end scotch nearly any day of the year. That being said, I have a very fond memory of drinking some really nice bottle of scotch with my advisor after my thesis defense. She kept the bottle stashed in her office and we ended up on it after the champagne, beer, wine ran dry and I got bored with the Absolute Currant shots I was doing with the Belgian in the lab. Sigh...good times... regards, trillium

Knudsen's has been making a pure pomegranate juice for years and years but it doesn't come in a sexy bottle or advertise. You can even buy it at Trader Joe's, but under the TJ label, for a little less. It makes a nice "real" grenadine. regards, trillium

Thanks for the recommendation, Trillium. I just ordered the book from amazon (used). I believe it's out of print in the US. I also saw this title quoted in several cookbooks so I figured it would be worth having. We adore that book. I'm not sure it's ever been in print in the US, but Mrs. Leong kicked major nonya butt. She's gone on to the happy kitchen in the sky but her book has been in continual print in Singapore. Hopefully you got one of the newer editions, the layout is a little better than the older ones. I can't say enough good things about that book. We've cooked a ton of things out of it and always been happy with the results. It keeps the homesickenss at bay for the S'porean in the house. It's got so he prefers some of the homecooked versions we make over the hawker stuff they sell today. One word of caution, she's very old school, so she calls for way more oils and fats than I'm usually willing to use (we're talking pints of oil for mee siam). I generally cut the amount at least in half. regards, trillium

Sorry for the late reply, I've been away. I don't know how difficult it is to get different kueh all over the States, but we used to buy a pretty decent kueh lapis from my favorite SE Asian grocery ever, Thai Grocery on Broadway in Chicago. They'd import it from Indonesia around lunar new year. They also had other steamed kuehs that were pretty similiar to S'porean/Malaysian ones, and seemed to be made at home by people and then sold in the store. I haven't seen much of anything here in Portland, but we used to be able to find stuff in SF easily enough, especially around new year. regards, trillium

Uh, I'm all for toban jiang, can't make ma po doufu without it, but just because someone wants something hotter doesn't mean their tastebuds are dead. What's inedible to you is just right to someone else. I live with someone who eats a ton of chillies. Something not spicey enough? He'll snack on a raw chilli while he eats it or slice up some red chillies and put them in soya to use as an additional condiment. His tastebuds don't get numb the way mine do...different strokes for different folks (and regions), you know? Sugar Toad, I'm not sure what you're using your toban jiang for, but you might try layering chilli from different sources when you cook. For mapo, we use the toban, and then drizzle homemade chilli and sesame oil over the top and sprinkle with fresh red chillies and cilantro. It makes the dish a lot more complex than just adding more paste. Also, some of the hot bean pastes made with fermented soya beans instead of broad beans tend to be a little hotter, except for the ones from Taiwan, which won't be, and they tend to be sweeter. Thai ones are even hotter but will frequently have salted shrimp or fish in them. They remind me of a chilli condiment in a hakka restaurant I used to go to in SF, but I wouldn't use them in the things I use toban for. Making your own chilli sauces is pretty easy, we always have 2 or 3 kinds of sambals in our freezer, so you could definitely explore that route, or just start by making your own chilli oil. regards, trillium

I really love The Chimes B&B. The breakfast is actually good, and the fresh fruit is great when you're eating all that deep fried stuff all day, but the best part is you're in walking distance of Casamento's. They're cheaper than a hotel and nicer. If you're at a huge conference like I was, there is a shuttle stop at the nearby Hampton Inn on St. Charles. If you're not, the trolly on St. Charles or the 11 bus on Magazine will get you to the convention center in around 15 minutes. regards, trillium

How cool is that? regards, trillium

Then he's going to need to buy a bottle of rye, but it's a great suggestion. In general we get kinda soused cooking and eating and drinking all day on Thanksgiving. Our tradition is champagne or French 75s with California sparkling wine depending on budget while cooking and old fashioneds afterwards. I can't imagine wanting anything with milk in it, dinner and dessert is rich enough! regards, trillium

I keep my vermouths on top of the fridge but I do vacuum seal them after every use. I haven't noticed a difference in a new vs. old bottle of Noilly. They last around 5 months. I just don't have enough fridge space to store 'em in there. regards, trillium

Stir-fried clams with black bean sauce This is such a classic combination I couldn’t resist including it here, although you can probably find it in just about any Chinese cookbook. I like all of the saltiness to come from the black beans. If you find their flavor too strong, you may want to use only 3 tablespoons and substitute 1 tablespoon of dark soya for the rest. I don’t like to eat leftover clams, so I’ve halved the recipe for the photo shoot. If there are only 2 people eating, you may want to do the same. 3 lb clams, scrubbed well and rinsed, discard any that do not close when you wash them 4 T preserved black beans (dau see) 1 tsp of peanut or safflower oil 4 T of ginger, finely julienned 4 large cloves of garlic, finely minced 4 green onions, julienned, white parts separate from the green parts fresh red chilli, thinly sliced on the diagonal (optional… we’ve used way more then a normal Cantonese cook would in the photos, call it the Singaporean influence) 2 T shaoxing wine 1/2 c chicken stock or water (use water if you don’t have homemade, otherwise it will be too salty) 2 tsp of potato flour stirred into 2 tablespoons of water (or use 1 1/2 teaspoons of cornstarch) Rinse the black beans in several changes of water and set aside. If they are very dry, leave them with a little water. If they were moist to begin with, pour out all of the excess rinsing water. Heat your pan until it’s very hot, about 5 minutes for cast iron, less for aluminum. Put in the oil, swirl it around and add the garlic, ginger and white part of the onions. Stir-fry until they begin to color, about 30 seconds. Add the black beans and stir-fry until they stick a little. Pour in the clams and toss them around in the sauce for 30 seconds. Splash in some shaoxing wine, about 2 –3 tablespoons. Flip the clams around and when the wine stops sizzling, add the stock or water. If the clams do not open after a minute or so, then cover them briefly to allow them to steam open. When 3/4 of the clams are open, stir in the green parts of the onion and the chilli. Toss and add the potato flour and stir until the sauce is thickened. If your sauce is too thick, don’t panic, just splash in a little more water and stir. Put into a warmed bowl and eat with plenty of steamed rice. Keywords: Chinese, eGCI ( RG764 )

Stir-fried clams with black bean sauce This is such a classic combination I couldn’t resist including it here, although you can probably find it in just about any Chinese cookbook. I like all of the saltiness to come from the black beans. If you find their flavor too strong, you may want to use only 3 tablespoons and substitute 1 tablespoon of dark soya for the rest. I don’t like to eat leftover clams, so I’ve halved the recipe for the photo shoot. If there are only 2 people eating, you may want to do the same. 3 lb clams, scrubbed well and rinsed, discard any that do not close when you wash them 4 T preserved black beans (dau see) 1 tsp of peanut or safflower oil 4 T of ginger, finely julienned 4 large cloves of garlic, finely minced 4 green onions, julienned, white parts separate from the green parts fresh red chilli, thinly sliced on the diagonal (optional… we’ve used way more then a normal Cantonese cook would in the photos, call it the Singaporean influence) 2 T shaoxing wine 1/2 c chicken stock or water (use water if you don’t have homemade, otherwise it will be too salty) 2 tsp of potato flour stirred into 2 tablespoons of water (or use 1 1/2 teaspoons of cornstarch) Rinse the black beans in several changes of water and set aside. If they are very dry, leave them with a little water. If they were moist to begin with, pour out all of the excess rinsing water. Heat your pan until it’s very hot, about 5 minutes for cast iron, less for aluminum. Put in the oil, swirl it around and add the garlic, ginger and white part of the onions. Stir-fry until they begin to color, about 30 seconds. Add the black beans and stir-fry until they stick a little. Pour in the clams and toss them around in the sauce for 30 seconds. Splash in some shaoxing wine, about 2 –3 tablespoons. Flip the clams around and when the wine stops sizzling, add the stock or water. If the clams do not open after a minute or so, then cover them briefly to allow them to steam open. When 3/4 of the clams are open, stir in the green parts of the onion and the chilli. Toss and add the potato flour and stir until the sauce is thickened. If your sauce is too thick, don’t panic, just splash in a little more water and stir. Put into a warmed bowl and eat with plenty of steamed rice. Keywords: Chinese, eGCI ( RG764 )

Chicken velvet (adapted from Yan Kit So’s Classic Chinese Cooking) Serves 2. 1 whole chicken breast, about 1 lb, cut into rough chunks 1/2 tsp salt 1 egg white 2 tsp ice water 2 tsp cornstarch Put all of the above into a food processor or blender and puree. Variations Instead of peas, you can top your soup with finely minced Yunnan ham. Country hams (like Smithfield Virginia ham) or prosciutto are substitutes for Yunnan ham. Instead of chicken, you can add 1 cup of fresh bamboo, julienned, and top with a little roasted sesame oil and green onions. Fresh bamboo can usually be found already prepared in tubs of water in the produce section in Asian groceries in larger cities. For smaller cities, look for cryovac packages where you find tofu. You can use fuzzy melon (mo qwa) in place of winter melon if you can’t find winter melon. Keywords: Chicken, Chinese, eGCI ( RG763 )

Chicken velvet (adapted from Yan Kit So’s Classic Chinese Cooking) Serves 2. 1 whole chicken breast, about 1 lb, cut into rough chunks 1/2 tsp salt 1 egg white 2 tsp ice water 2 tsp cornstarch Put all of the above into a food processor or blender and puree. Variations Instead of peas, you can top your soup with finely minced Yunnan ham. Country hams (like Smithfield Virginia ham) or prosciutto are substitutes for Yunnan ham. Instead of chicken, you can add 1 cup of fresh bamboo, julienned, and top with a little roasted sesame oil and green onions. Fresh bamboo can usually be found already prepared in tubs of water in the produce section in Asian groceries in larger cities. For smaller cities, look for cryovac packages where you find tofu. You can use fuzzy melon (mo qwa) in place of winter melon if you can’t find winter melon. Keywords: Chicken, Chinese, eGCI ( RG763 )

Winter melon soup with peas and chicken velvet Soups can play many roles in southern Chinese cooking, especially to the Cantonese. They can be a snack, such as ground roasted black sesame soup, lightly sweetened and thickened with rice flour, a medicinal health tonic, such as those containing ginseng and other herbal medicinals, or as a soothing part of the family meal. Winter melon (doong qwa) is very favorably considered for medicinal soups, fancy banquet soups presented in carved melons, or in a soup for the family dinner. Unlike a medicinal soup where the whole melon is used, peel, seeds and all, we’re going to peel and remove the seeds for ours. You can usually find pieces of winter melon cut for home use in the refrigerated section of the produce area in an Asian grocery. Many cooks believe that the more white powdery coating a melon has on its peel, the better it is, so I always look for that coating on the pieces I pick out. Avoid melon pieces that have been cut for too long, they’ll start to be soft and transparent near the rind. I’m giving a recipe for a fairly large amount of soup, because the pieces I can buy are quite large, but it scales down very nicely. The stock should be clear and light, made from meat, feet and bones that have not been cooked or roasted previously. I like to make mine with just a little salt, although some people add a few slices of ginger to theirs. Avoid adding any other aromatics, you’re going for a clear stock full of chicken “essence” and not much else. 4-1/2 c homemade chicken stock (store bought is not an option for this) 3 lb winter melon 14 oz frozen peas, thawed 1 recipe for chicken velvet salt and white pepper to taste The easiest way I’ve found to prepare the melon is to de-seed it, cut it into 1/2 inch slices, slice it off the peel and then cut the slices into pieces about 1/4 inch thick. If you want it to be prettier, you can peel it whole and cut it into cubes. Heat the stock to a light simmer and add the melon pieces. You’ll hear them hiss as they are warmed in the stock. Simmer covered until the melon is transparent, depending on the melon and the size of your pieces it can take 15 – 30 minutes. Add salt to taste, around 1/2 teaspoon, and a few turns of white pepper. You have two options with the chicken velvet: you can add some warm stock to it to thin it out and then stir it in, which will result in a more refined texture, or you can just put it in straight and stir it as it cooks, to break it into the larger pieces. You can see these larger pieces in the finished soup in the photo. What I do depends on mood and occasion. After you’ve added the chicken, stir in the thawed peas, let them warm, and then serve the soup with fresh ground white pepper on top. Keywords: Soup, Chinese, eGCI ( RG762 )