paulraphael

Check out this study: http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.622.5104&rep=rep1&type=pdf I've only just glanced at it, but think you're safe with a few days to spare. Just chill that meat quickly, and keep it on ice. (This study was designed to look at the effects of higher temperature cooking on c.botulinum germination time, but they also an uncooked sample as a control. The uncooked sample is probably the one to look at, since your 72 hour cook will probably be lower than any of their test temperatures. Check out the chart on p. 1784)

Beware simplified information like this. All bacteria have a temperature / time curve for pasteurization. Salmonella, e-coli, campilobacter, and trichinella are killed to pasteurization standards at 130°F in under 6 hours. In 72 hours they'd be dead dead dead. I don't have listeria data handy.

My first question is if you're thoroughly chilling the base before spinning it. This makes a huge difference. Consider that much of what you're doing is making whipped cream in the ice cream maker; the milk fat needs to be partially crystallized. 8 hours below 38°F usually does it. Although 6–7% fat is pretty low and probably adds to the challenge. If this doesn't get you anywhere, you could try skipping the lecithin and glycerides and using polysorbate-80 at 0.02% to 0.04%. I haven't used this stuff, but its reputation as emulsifier is that it's especially effective at improving foam structure. A jar of this would last close to a lifetime. Does the ICE-70 tend to produce dense ice cream? If it's a slow spinning machine that favors low overrun, and you're going for a very low fat recipe, this could be challenging.

These are great questions, and they're way beyond any research I've even skimmed. My personal experience is with plain old skim milk powder. I've written a bit about the functional differences between casein and whey, but when it comes to what the specific effects of monkeying with the ratios, or of denaturing whey proteins to one degree or another, most of this knowledge is probably locked up in the commercial labs at companies like Haagen Dazs and General Foods. One person you might try contacting is Dr. Cesar Vega, who's one of the world experts on ice cream science. He's on Twitter at @CesarVega76

You could probably leave it out of these recipes entirely. There's already such a high level of solids form the chocolate and cocoa. The textural difference should be small.

Ha. I know people who wish they didn't. Maybe you can work something out.

I just finished a post on chocolate ice cream. This was a long time in the making! 15 prototypes. There are two recipes; one that uses both couverture and cocoa powder, which I think represents the best compromise for right now. An one that's 100% cocoa, for when we can get our hands on really good single-origin cocoa powders. I think that day is coming. Some of the big manufacturers are advertising them (but I don't know where to find them), and many small makers are selling them now (but they don't seem able to mill the powder fine enough yet). But I'm hopeful. I may slightly update these recipes with some tweaks to the stabilizer blend, but I think they're very close.

I'm compiling a list of single origin cocoa providers. If anyone wants to add, please do. Right now this only includes brands with US distribution; I think there are a few who distribute only in Europe. Callebaut / Bensdorp https://bcfmpreview.barry-callebaut.com/products/single-origin-powders?segment=cereals http://www.bensdorp.com/natural-são-tomé (many regions including a sau tomé natural) Askinosie https://www.askinosie.com/single-origin-natural-cocoa-powder.html (tanzania) KYYA https://www.kyyachocolate.com/products/cocoa-powder-4-oz (ecuador) Omanhene http://omanhene.3dcartstores.com/Cocoa-Powder-Natural-Cocoa-Powder_p_5.html (Ghana) Map Chocolate https://www.mapchocolate.com/holiday-baking-supplies/craft-cocoa-powder-sampler-set (Honduras) Match Chocolate (warns that grain size is too large … not smooth) https://www.matchchocolate.com/current-offerings/ (several origins)

Here's the Indian version: milk solids, sugar, vegetable fat, glucose, emulsifier E471. Stabilizers: E407, E412, E466, water and artificial vanilla flavour http://www.kwality.ae/product/vanilla/ Dr. Parekh is probably making something a little closer to his roots. But I wouldn't be surprised if it's eggless. He's a food scientist, so he should know how to get any texture he wants without eggs. The Times article shows that he gets the importance or lower sweetness ... that's encouraging.

I'd start with an added emulsifier, like lecithin (find a brand that doesn't have a strong taste. Like WillPowder). Then a bit of stabilizer. I like to mix my own. For eggless ice creams, sometimes a little extra lambda carrageenan will give the same custardy mouthfeel as egg yolk.

Vodka will definitely soften the ice cream ... ethanol has enormous powers of freezing point depression. But I don't think adding alcohol is the best solution, because you'll trade hardness for iciness. Alcohol will increase the amount of unfrozen water in the final product, without doing anything to control that water. The most elegant way I know to control hardness is with sugars. Adding dextrose to the mix allows you to control hardness and sweetness independently. Fructose or invert syrup will offer even more control. I've written about this here.

That's an interesting product. It appears to have about 70% the fat content of regular Guanaja. I wonder if other companies make similar versions of their couverture. Here's a sample recipe on Valrhona's site using that chocolate: https://inter.valrhona.com/en/by-your-side/chocolate-recipes/glace-au-lait-p125-coeur-de-guanaja

If I understand the thing correctly, it would be ideal for precision cooking anything liquid. The stirrer would mean you're circulating the food, not just the heat transfer medium. So it would work great for making custards, tempering chocolate, pasteurizing small quantities of anything, and the killer app for me ... cooking ice cream bases.

I don't know about unanticipated. I've been anticipating such a thing for a while, but without any luck. What's unclear to me is the design / purpose of the vessel. Seems like the thing should work with any induction-capable pot on top.

No idea how the upper part of this thing works, or if they'll ever make it. But in principle it's what I've been begging for: http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageNum=0&docid=10028609&IDKey=C0D9F4BF5D3D&HomeUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetacgi%2Fnph-Parser%3FSect1%3DPTO2%26Sect2%3DHITOFF%26u%3D%252Fnetahtml%252FPTO%252Fsearch-adv.htm%26r%3D22%26f%3DG%26l%3D50%26d%3DPTXT%26p%3D1%26S1%3D(%2522food%2522%2BAND%2B%2522cooking%2522)%26OS%3D%2522food%2522%2Band%2B%2522cooking%2522%26RS%3D(%2522food%2522%2BAND%2B%2522cooking%2522)

Our many decades-old black + decker dumb oven finally burst into flames, so it was time to act. I picked out a couple of great looking sub-$50 toaster ovens by Toshiba and Hamilton Beach, and we were about to pull the trigger, when my girlfriend spotted deep in the reviews that they have mechanical timers that make a ticking noise while toasting. I thought "who cares?" She thought "I'd rather die." So we descended back to the lower basements of the internet for more research. And what did we find but a smaller, less smart smart oven by Breville. The interface is straightforward and pretty intuitive. It has annoying presets ("Pizza") but you can ignore them and just use toast, bake, broil, etc. There's no convection feature, and I don't care. This will be used 90% for toast, and the rest of the time for reheating, for broiling things like croque monsieurs, and maybe for warming plates. I don't need to roast a cornish hen or bake a cake in my toaster. The thing is about halfway between the size of our old toaster oven and the full size ones that will fit a 12" pizza or full chicken. About right for us. The 1800 watt quartz elements cook toast evenly and reasonably quickly. Haven't used it for anything else yet. I'm especially impressed by the design of the crumb tray. Trivially easy to pull out and clean. Its biggest weakness so far is a complete lack of insulation. You could probably make pancakes on the top surface

I spent some time with this book when it first came out and found quite a few head-scratchers that I suspect are editing problems. I don't remember that exact formula. Have you worked out the math and then analyzed the results, to see if they match the intention?

Cheap alloy aluminum pans sit on 30,000 btu/hr burners in restaurants all day long. The worst thing that ever happens is they warp. I'd maybe worry if we were talking about magnesium.

I'd be interested in people's experience with surface treatments. I have an old aluminum griddle that I've seasoned like cast iron, with no special surface treatment. As could be expected, the seasoning flakes off pretty easily. A griddle gets rougher treatment than a pizza steel, but I'd still be curious about ways to improve the durability, either physical or chemical.

Certainly dextrose. Not sure about other non-sugar or non-caloric options. I've never done battle with sweetener crystallization.

Has anyone found a 1/2" aluminum slab for pizza, or priced one from a metal yard? Seems like a good idea. You'd need the slab to be at least thick as your steel (ideally thicker, if you're trying to match the heat capacity) but it would still be lighter. You'd want to season the thing like cast iron, to blacken it and increase its emissivity. Kenji's test of of copper vs. steel showed the copper to be inferior despite much higher conductivity. Uncharacteristically, Kenji made a dubious analysis of what was going on, but if you dig into the comments thread, you'll find some physics-minded people who correctly posit that the difference is in emissivity, and that a pizza steel / stone / oven deck heats primarily by radiation and not by conduction.

I don't believe it's about stabilizers. I think it's combination of cocoa butter (hardening the fats) and extra glucose (softening the frozen portion).

Ok. Here's a paper on using erythritol in ice cream. It says the hardness comes from crystallization of the the erythritol itself; the freezing point depression factor is actually three times stronger than that of sucrose. The suggested compensations are to combine with other sugar alcohols (sorbitol, sucralose, polydextrose). The complete sugar reduction is achieved by taking out the crystallisation inhibiting glucose syrup. However, due to erythritol’s strong crystallisation behaviour, a crystallisation inhibitor is indispensable. Several options from the polyol range were tested in the frame of the project. It was found that sorbitol, maltitol, xylitol and their mixtures, all perform quite well alongside erythritol. It was also discovered that all three indeed soften the ice cream structure. This creates a great toolbox where the polyol pair can be varied to modify product hardness and creaminess. The actual second polyol can be chosen according to individual preference as they all will harmonise with erythritol. Texture as well as sensory analysis revealed that the preferred polyol ratio should be in a range of three parts erythritol to two parts of the second polyol.

I don't know what's going on in your particular formula, but the inverse relationship between freezing point depression and molecular mass isn't just some pet theory of mine. It's a basic principle in chemistry. Chemists actually use it to calculate the molecular mass of unknown chemicals in solution.

Yes, it's exactly what I mean. I like chocolate ice cream with a strong chocolate flavor, which means using lots of chocolate. And this means adding lots of cocoa butter. It can make the ice cream too hard. If you take the usual steps with sugars to soften the ice cream, you can get a kind pudding-like texture that I'm not thrilled with.