paulraphael

Peterson! He's the father, the son, and the holy ghost. His soup book isn't a technical tour de force in the same way as his Sauces book, but it's fantastic. The recipes are diverse and delicious, but it's written around lessons in the structure and technique of soup, so you won't akwats be dependent on the recipes. What I love about his cookbooks is that they're written to help you not need them. Even so, there are a few recipes that are so good that I make them over and over. Some of his recipes are time consuming, but nothing I've come across seems particularly difficult. It's soup, after all ... lots of good stuff mixed together. It's not organic chemistry. Definitely take his quantites for seasonings are starting points, I find he likes to go much lighter on herbs and spices than I do, particularly with spice-based cuisines like indian and north african.

A double stock will give you the same amount of stock from your ingredients as a big reduction will, but it will usually taste better. It won't suffer from the flatness that you can get from extended boiling/reduction.

I was being bombastic, presumptuous, and opinionated, the way people who love chocolate often feel entitled to be

here's an article on just that question ... http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/26/books/26...r=1&oref=slogin This one is much more thorough, but you have to pay for it http://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.htm...DA80994DE404482

Instead of a dutch oven, has anyone tried just doing this on a baking stone and covering with some kind of dome? Seems like you could use an upside-down dutch oven for this, or a big stainless or stoneware mixing bowl, or one of those domes caterers use to cover roasts. Any thoughts? seems like it would be easier than dropping dough into a pot. Maybe you'd have to preheat whatever you're using for the dome, especially if it's heavy.

I agree with the consensus here. A simple thing to remember is that pastry dough typically has 1/3 the weight of the flour in liquid. That's very little. Typical bakers percentage for sweet pastry (pâte sucrée) are 100% flour, 66% butter, 33% liquid, 10% sugar, and 1/2% salt If you don't like numbers, a way to tell if the hydration is right and the mixing is adequate is to grab a pinch. If it barely holds together, and tends to crack and crumble, you're there. As unlikely as it seems. If I can't get the dough to form a ball, I'll pile it in bowl and let it sit covered in the fridge for 20 minutes or so. That rest can allow the flour to hydrate enough to form dough. When the dough does its final rest in the fridge (at least 30 minutes, but I find 24 hours is ideal) the flour will fully hydrate and it will become manageable enough to roll out. It will also develop better flavor. As djyee said, this part is important. If you try to get it doughlike too quickly, by adding more water or by overworking it, you'll get a brick. Some other things that will help tenderize the crust are higher butterfat buttter (french farm style butter is as much as 86% butterfat, vs. 80% for most supermarket butter) and pastry flour (buy it or make your own by blending AP flour with cake flour or corn starch). Roll out and form as others have suggested (and I give another vote for Julia Child's instructions, but I much prefer all butter over her butter/shortening mix). Just make shure to work quickly, and to work the dough as little as possible. If the kitchen is warm, the dough may get sticky. If so, stop, and put it in the fridge for 20 minutes or so to relax it and re-solidify the butter. If you let the butter melt, you'll end up again with a brick. [Edited! I wrote the percentages from memory and got them wrong]

I think this mysterious "most people" who don't like dark, bitter chocolate either need some re-education, or they need to go to someone else's dinner party! I sometimes go the opposite route with chocolate desserts. If there are a lot of non-chocolate ingredients (especially butter and cream) I'll often make a blend that's as over as a third unsweetened chocolate and the rest bittersweet chocolate in the 65% to 70% range. A blend that tastes great to me in a rich chocolate marquise is about 40% valrhona guanaja (one of my faves, but can be a little dark and lacking in aroma by iteself in desserts, 40% unsweetened chocolate (callebaut or valrhona), and 20% valrhoha manjari (brighter, fruiitier, more acidic and aromatic). In other desserts where i don't want as much of a dominating chocolate flavor, I someimes use the manjari straight. It's delicious without being overwhelmingly dark or complex.

I don't know, but if I were looking I'd check out the pork store and murray's cheese (both on bleeker) and possibley citarella and loebell's. The real answer will probably be more obscure and interesting, but those are worth a try. Please let us know what you find out.

I'm not convinced of this; I have done several chickens where the only variable is brine. There has been a significant difference in browning. The brined birds seem to cook slightly faster, but brown less and also brown unevenly. It might be something specific to the way I'm doing it. The most time I've brined for is 2 hours. I'm considering dropping that to 1 and letting the bird sit out for the second hour. Does anyone think there would be health risks associated with brining for an hour out of the fridge (with water the temp of cold tap water?) I realize one possible issue is the bird not being able to warm as close to room temperature when it's soaking in a half gallon of water.

Interesting. I'd think dry salting would draw moisture out of the bird. what are you doing and what are the results? And when you air dry after brining, how much time does it typically take?

Thanks, that' interesting. I generally do this for less ceremonial occasions than thanksgiving (like, say, dinner for me and my girlfriend) so I want to be able to do it all in an evening. Does anyone have a scientific explanation for why brining effects browning? It might help with a solution.

Question for those who have tried this with Le Creuset dutch ovens ... I want to experiment, but my pot has one of their plastic (phenolic?) handles on the lid. Supposedly oven safe, but I'm skeptical that it would handle 500 or 550 degrees (which I think of when I see "blazing hot" in the instructions. Any thoughts?

I've been ecstatic about the flavor and texture of my roasted chickens lately. Been doing them at 500 degrees, with a little foil over the breasts for the first few minutes of cooking to get everything just so at the same time. Lately I've been experimenting with brining, which has made a tasty, juicy bird even tastier and juicier. Only issue is that the brining seems to interfere with the even browing of the bird. What had previously been a dark, crisp, perfect brown is now more splotchy and freckled looking, and less crisp. I've tried this: -rinsing the bird after brining -patting it dry with paper towel -rubbing it with olive oil or butter, infused with garlic, and putting some of the infused oil or butter under the breast skin my brine has about 1/4 cup granulated sugar, 1/4 cup salt, 5 crushed garlic cloves, and a bay leaf per quart. I brine for about 2 hours, the first hour in the fridge, the second on the counter to help the bird get to room termp. before going in the oven. any thoughts?