paulraphael

This is my thinking also. The recipes that usually lean on the baking soda have buttermilk or yogurt or something else tangy ... I don't want to kill that flavor. I often adjust these recipes to use just a little baking soda, and get most of the leavening from powder. I try not to go too far, because baking powder's bitterness can be noticeable if you use enough.

We have a Zojirushi rice cooker, and lately I've been impatient and have just been making rice in the pressure cooker. It started when my girlfriend had bogarted the cooker to make brown rice, which is her private pleasure, and was hungry for some man rice. It was so easy I kept doing it. I've been making jasmine rice, 1 : 1:5 water ratio. Throw it in the pressure cooker, turn up the heat. Once it comes to pressure, cook for 4 minutes. Take off the heat and rest for 10. Done. Probably in a side-by-side test, rice from the Zojirushi robot would win. But the PC rice is just fine.

They've got a few different ones: https://hasegawakagaku.com/products_category/cutting-boards/ I've known about this version, which can go in the dishwasher and supposedly don't warp. I didn't see them on Amazon Japan (but didn't look too hard). I've started down this rabbit hole a few times before but got snapped out of it by prices or confusion.

I used to use a spatula, but have started just using a whisk. Turns out that those fears of deflation are imaginary.

The symptoms do suggest gunk at the food end, but I cleaned it and oiled it well, and it spins easily in my fingers. There could be a motor problem. But that wouldn't explain it heating up at the head. Maybe heating at the head is normal, and is unrelated to the speed issues? If that's the case it could also be the circuit board. I might have to give Bamix a call. In the mean time, it's usable. Just not its amazing old self.

Well, the only part that's under warranty still is the motor. I didn't take that apart

Our 3 year-old Bamix M150 is having some problems that I can't figure out. This is one of the smaller ones; we use it mostly for emulsions, blending small amounts of batter, light whipping etc. It seems to run more slowly than it used to, and the pitch of the motor goes up and down. It generates a lot of heat in the shaft right above the head. Running it dry, I measured it at around 120°F with an IR thermometer. The obvious guess was that gunk had gotten in there, so it needed to be cleaned and lubed. I took the whole thing apart. Aside from a little old food right at end of the shaft, it looked pristine inside. It also looked very well designed and built, with a serious motor. I cleaned the shaft, lubed it with silicone oil, put it together, and checked to see that everything spun free and silky-smooth. I plugged it in and ... no change at all. Motor speed still varies. End of shaft still gets hot. Any ideas?

No, but I use it at 4% or under in sorbets, so I wouldn't expect to notice this kind of thing.

"Pull-apart" tender happens with tough cuts of meat that are high in connective tissue (collagen) relative to contractile tissue. The tough collagen converts to gelatin, which has pretty much the opposite qualities of its sinewy precursor. This collagen breakdown typically happens at higher temperatures, like in the well-done range. Lower temperatures will tenderize the meat if you cook long enough, but will produce more of a tender steak texture than a pull-apart stew texture. These techniques won't work on tender cuts of meat. The higher temperature treatment will just dry them out. There isn't enough collagen to turn to gelatin. If you go long and low, you'll also dry them out, while at the same time making them mushy.

I've had good results using Now brand Inulin in sorbets and non-dairy ice creams. They don't tell you anything about the molecule size or even the source (I think a few years ago they at least mentioned the source). This kind of thing worries me, because it means they could change it any time they wanted. But it's easy to get, and my batch from a couple of years ago works great for your purposes.

I like the idea, and I'm glad that mainstream companies are taking scales seriously. I'm just hoping they did the smart thing and made the small platform significantly lower than the big one. Because you want to be able to weigh things in a big pan, or sometimes even a sheet pan. Not going to be easy if the .001g platform is at the same level.

I brought up the hiking filter after reading your earlier post where you said, "In general, the advice given is not to drink the local tap water anywhere in China. Few people, including me, ever do. When I first came here (1996), I didn't even brush my teeth with tap water, but was never concerned about washing vegetables with it (not logical, I know). I would use bottled water for teeth and for drinking. I soon gave up the teeth related usage. As someone mentioned on the thread yesterday, people do get acclimatised to the local water and less prone to negative reactions." I didn't mean to quote the passage about restaurants.

This is great news (even if old news). The Panasonic is also a 240v device, as it would have to be at that power rating. That may be why it's not officially sold in the US. Peculiar that the technology isn't everywhere, including multi-burner cooktops. I only see references to this Panasonic unit, and to a Vollrath one that's harder to find. From my (very brief) reading on this, the engineers don't even have to limit the power. It's naturally limited by the inductance of the pan material. A coil that delivers 3600W to iron will deliver less to aluminum or copper. It's not a matter of efficiency; it will pull less power from the wall as well. A coil that delivers 3600W to aluminum could be made, but it would be more expensive, and would either deliver much more than this to iron, or would have to have its power deliberately limited in low-frequency mode.

I imagine in that situation, you'll have a hard time avoiding a case of tourista.

Can you link to this? Last I looked for such thing they only existed as concepts. How well does it do on copper? Is there a noticeable difference when you switch metals? Do you have to change settings?