Lesley C

I just purchased a set of good-quality Laguiole steak knives in Avignon, for I think, about 130 euros (maybe more). I didn't go for the top-of-the-line knives because they seemd a bit stodgy to me, but settled instead on a nice set of gleaming stainless steel Laguiole Extra G. David that are actually dishwasher-safe (though I try not to stick them in the dishwasher). So far, they cut beautifully and I've impressed many friends. Beware of the shoddy cheapo Laguioles you can usually pick up for nothing (I've heard some foie gras company actually gives them away in supermarkets upon proof of purchase). They are lightweight, the blade is shitty and they usually come in garish colours. The bee on a cheap Laguiole is usually oversized, but if you've ever held a decent Laguiole you'll know the difference. If you're in a city outside Paris, be sure to buy them at a Coutellerie. There are usually one or two in the small cities.

I can't find Nescafe Expresso powder in Montreal, which is the best instant coffee for baking. I always bring back jars of that from France along with Quart de chaumes wine and Flexipans and SilPats from MORA, around the corner from Dehillerin -- much cheaper than in N.America. I once tried to bring home a Corsican wild boar and hazelnut sausage, but they nabbed it at customs.

Could you explain the triple blanching for the zests? Also, do you add a bit of salt to the blanching water? (never did it myself until this terrific French chef I know suggested it; it's definitely a cook thing, not a pastry-chef thing).

The article in today's La Presse states Charest's failing health -- specifically his eyesight -- as the primary reason behind the sale.

Champlain Charest, owner of Bistro Champlain in Sainte-Marguerite-de-Lac-Masson Quebec, is selling off most of his prize-winning cellar to three companies: the SAQ (societé des Alcohols du Quebec), Caisse de dépot, and the Montreal Casino. Charest owns Canada’s only Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning cellar. Of the 32 000 bottles in his collection, he plans on keeping a mere 6000 for his restaurant. Rarities include over 700 bottles of Yquem from 1928 to present, 600 bottles of Pétrus from 1945-1998, and 575 bottles of Romanée-Conti (including many mathusalems worth a cool 5 million) and much, much more. This is sad news indeed. Touring Mr. Charest’s vast cellar after dinner at his bistro was a rare treat. His collection (reputed to be worth 10 million) is stupendous. When I was visiting Chateau Beaucastel recently, they told me of all their clients, the only mathusalems of Chateauneuf-du-Pape they produced were made for Champlain Charest. Unfortunately the restaurant’s website seems to be down at present.

I liked the white Coudoulet (2000), especially with lobster, but found the red (2000) a bit dull.

Suvir, Top them with a cream made of one third lemon curd and two thirds Chantilly (sweetened whipped cream). Or, make a tart shell, fill it with this cream and cover with blueberries. Sprinkle with icing sugar just before serving. I also like (baked) covered blueberry pies.

On my recent trip to the Southern Rhone, we tasted 1998, 1999, 2000 and a few 2001. It’s generally considered that 1998 and 2000 were good in the south and 1999 was better in the north. The 2000s were consistently the most complex and satisfying of the bunch. Unlike Steve P., I have no trouble drinking such young wines. The few times I tasted the older vintages (especially outside the crus), I was often disappointed – little of the power I’ve come to expect or enjoy in Rhone reds. Food-wise every wine maker said the same thing, grilled meat, civet de lièvre, steak de taureau (a local specialty) and roasted wild boar. I also adore these wines with cheeses such as Brie de Meaux and Camembert. A few favourites (at all price points): Louis Bernard: Domaine des Carbonnieres Gigondas 2001 (superior to the 2000) Domaines des Muretins Lirac 2000 (better than 1999) And in the Grande Reserve the 2000 Cotes-du-Rhone and 1998 C-d-R Villages Gramenon: Les Hauts de Gramenon Village Vinsobres 2000, La Mémé 2000 and A.Pascal S. 1998 (100% Grenache). Domaine de la Présidente: Galify Rouge Vielles Vignes 1999. Velours Rouge (90% syrah; amazing cassis flavour) Cotes du Rhone Rouge 1999, and Un Dimanche d’Octobre en Famille Cotes du Rhone Blanc 1997. Domaine de Cabasse: Cuvée de la Casa Bassa Séguret Cotes du Rhone Village 2000 (wonderful with lamb) and Gigondas 2000. Beaucastel: Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2000 white, Lirac 1997, Beaucastel 1983, 1990 and 2000, Hommage a Jacques Perrin 1998 (out of this world!). Also highly recommended: Domaine de Soumade, Fleur de Confiance 1999 C-d-R Villages Rasteau, Le Sang des Cailloux Vacqueras 1997, Roger Sabons Chateauneuf-du-Pape white 2001. Just a few highlights from this terrific region. If you’re interested in trying the Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, I’d suggest Rasteau and Vinsobres. If we start a thread on the France board, I can recommend a few terrific places to stay and eat in the region.

Chocolate covered strawberries... I've probably made a million of these babies. First I'll let you in on a little, behind the scenes pastry-chef secret. We never wash strawberries. Take your strawberries (the larger the better) straight from the fridge, dip them in melted (not tempered) bittersweet "couverture" quality chocolate to about half way up the strawberry, and place the berry onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. When the sheet is filled, put the berries back in the fridge. Now, if you want to make them loook REALLY good, take the cold, once-dipped strawberries and dip the tips in melted white chocolate. Put them back on the baking sheet and chill them again until the white chocolate is set. Trust me, double dipped strawberries look a heck of a lot better than once-dipped. Triple-dipped strawberries are a bit much. If you're feeling really artistic, you can start with the white chocolate and then dip twice in dark chocolate at angles to make the strawberry look like it's wearing a little tuxedo. You would of course then have to pipe on a little bow tie. This is about as silly as strawberry dipping gets, but there's no denying the "WoW" factor with certain crowds.

I just returned from a trip to this region, including tastings at Beaucastel, Janasse, Gramenon, Meffre, Beaurenard and more. It's amazing how many treasures you can discover. I promise when I have time to write up the whole thing. I didn't even know the difference between a Cotes du Rhone Villages and a Cotes du Rhone when I got there. Plenty to learn

I usually enjoy La Hesser's work. I think, however, she should be careful in restaurant reviews not to get into telling people how things should be done. She should be reviewing the place, not telling them how to better their business. Those kind of comments aren't about honesty; it's I-know-better-than-you-itis, and it's a very slippery slope to go down -- especially if you've never owned a restaurant. Heaven knows, as a restaurant reviewer myself, I've been tempted. But, IMO, it's impossible to do without sounding patronizing.

http://www.nytimes.com/2002/07/24/dining/24UNDE.html

Absolutely. Yet the French tend to know a lot about their region and little else, and Quebeckers are curious to look beyond that. I'd think the restaurant customer in Quebec is probably more sophisticated than in other provinces ('m not talking cities here, but provinces). We buy 44% of the wine sold in Canada, 70% is red, and almost all of it is French (apparently French Canadians aren't interested in Canadian (English) wine). In one of my cooking courses, I remember a French chef telling me that I could never really understand taste because I had an English, as opposed to Latin, palate. If there is any truth to that -- silly -- comment, French Canadians would have an upper hand. They certainly make excellent cheese.

I think the school I attended, the Institut de Tourisme et d'Hotellerie du Quebec, is one of the best, if not the best in Canada (certainly at the time I was there, from 87-90). I also hear good things about the Stratford chef's School in Ontario, which is tiny compared to the ITHQ. Best of all, my schooling at the ITHQ was free because the school is subsidized by the government. Also, all my courses were given in French and most of our teachers were from France. On top of that, the ITHQ has strong ties in France when it comes to placing students on stage. French chefs know more about Quebec than probably any other part of North America; the province is still the #1 tourist destination for the French. At the time I was there, the budget was enormous and the ingredients we used were generally excellent. Of course things have changed. A cooking school run by a government official isn't always a formula for success. But there are bonuses, for example, the school just received about 10 million from the minister of education to upgrade the building. Chefs among the schools alums? Probably all the up-and-coming Montreal chefs have been to the ITHQ at one time or another. I know of many who left for Europe but unless they speak English, the US is not an option. Riad Nasr is from Montreal, though I can't remember if he attended the ITHQ (think so, not sure).

Jello pudding pops are great if you're hungover. However, I don't think they make them anymore.

It's obvious this isn't a French board. In France, everyone has his or her favourite water. Comtrex is good because it cleans you out. Vittel is nice in restaurants. And the Italian water Panna (made by the San Pellegrino people) actually tastes -- strange as it may sound -- wetter to me than other waters.

I second the Cote Rotie suggestion. Burgundies at that price are risky. I love Burgundies but have blown too much money on dreary bottles between $20-$30. Cotes du Rhone in that price range are more reliable.

Malawry, Nice reading, brings me back to my cooking school days. Are you using the concentrated pastry rum or just regular rum?

Cabrales, On page 63 of Dorie Greenspan's book, Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé, there is a BIG FAT HUGE mistake in the opening text. I picked it up right away and it annoys the hell out of me. But besides people like me, does anyone really care about such details? I wonder? Secondly, I find your requirements for a food writer very, very interesting. Tell me, who exactly is supposed to pay for all those meals? Should only the super rich who can afford to eat and travel to the ends of the world be allowed to write about food?

I just returned from Rockport, where I had some pretty horrible food. Avoid the nicest restaurant called My Place by the Sea. The service and food were awful. The view, however, was AMAZING! My choice in Rockport is a little family restaurant called Ellen's. The fried clams are nice. The fish is nothing special and the steak is great. If you have children, it's your best bet. Remember, Rockport is a dry town so you have to BYOWine. For lunch, try the Greenery restaurant at the bottom of Bearskin Neck.

"Did you know that in Quebec they put French fries and cheese curds together and call it Poutine?"

L'Epi Dupin has a Michelin star! No way that can be true! Nice chef there, but really.... all that filo pastry. Blue Hill is a notch above that, but I don't think in the same league as many one-star places.

Many thanks to all of you! Looks like St-John might be the choice. The only problem with the museum restaurant is that you don't get that "restaurant and museum" day trip feeling. It's nice to make the trek to London for at least two very different experiences.

Hmm. Is this a lousy area for restaurants? I don't think the museum restaurant will fit the ticket. Is there really nothing else? I thought the OXO Tower had a Conran restaurant in there somewhere and a brasserie?

I'm looking for a good restaurant for lunch near the Tate Modern Museum. Someone recommended the OXO Tower but I hear it's overpriced and not that good. Any recommendations?