Lesley C

Who said Blue Hill is the kind of place that would have one Michelin star in Paris? No way! Blue Hill is too casual for that. It's good, but really, I can't think of anything to get excited about (except maybe the Quebec foie gras). Simon's review seemed fair to me, though I'd up the score to a 7/10. Then again, Gramercy Tavern didn't do it for me either. I'm starting to get the impression American restaurants are overrated on this board.

Has anyone seen the article on L'Astrance in Australian Vogue written by Laura Calder?

Malawry, Beware, beware of your bread knife (serrated knife). During my pastry chef years, I only ever cut myself with that knife, and quite badly at that: once slicing a pineapple and the other time, trying to cut a frozen genoise. Very stupid, and I still have the scars to prove it.

I quite disliked March. I thought the food was pretentious, the desserts were beyond weak, and the atmosphere was dull. The waiters were quite nice and it wasn't over-the-top expensive, but I'd never go there again.

Ready for this: a Carte d'Or Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. Lovely wine, quite light and not cloying like the stuff they import here. I tasted the 2001, deeply chilled, which was very nice.

Steve, don't give up on chiboust. When properly made, this pastry cream and Italian meringue combo is amazing, especially when cooked like a soufflé. Baked grapefruit chiboust with a caramelized banana sauce is heaven.

Rosé Champagne with brownies? Oh, I think I'm going to be sick... For those interested, here's my brownie recipe: Brownies (makes about 300) Melt together and cool to room temperature: 2350 g Valrhona pure pate de cacao (unsweetened chocolate) 1600 g unsalted butter 55 g vanilla Whip till just frothy 5600 g sugar 2800 g eggs (about 56) 4 tablespoons salt Add the chocolate mixture to the egg mixture as well as: 2100g all-purpose flour 1120g fresh walnuts Fill three trays: 4800 g/tray. Bake 325 F 30 minutes. For those not interested in opening a brownie business, I'll work on translating this to home measures and dividing it by about 75.

I believe I said "obvious" special treatment. I remember one glaring example. I was reviewing a very well-respected, old French restaurant. It was late lunch and the place was empty save for two tables, mine and a table of three regulars. We ordered a full meal and a couple of wines by the glass. The waiter hardly greeted us, and throughout the meal, was really just going through the paces. But when it came to the other table, it was smiles, handshakes, two extra dessert choices not listed on the menu, glasses of Cognac on the house, good byes at the door, helping on with coats and so on. Walking out the door with no one offering even a measly “thank you come again,” I was amazed -- insulted even. I have no problem with discreet favours such as favourite tables, an extra amuse, or an added scoop of sorbet on the dessert. But please, don't gush over the regulars and treat the rest of us like ex-cons. Heaven knows, we could be restaurant critics. And I'm not so sure about a restaurant's ability to overextend itself being limited. In fact I completely disagree. Lxt, do you or have you worked in a professional kitchen? If so, did you ever get a request for a VIP order? Do you know the difference between a regular order and a VIP order? The world, that’s the difference. Imagine you’re a chef/owner and a well-known critic has just arrived in your restaurant. Now, you have a huge bank loan and your food cost is high, so you're maybe just breaking even (or just on the edge going under and losing your house). Tell me, do you really think you'll just hum a few bars of Que Sera Sera, and carry on as usual. Or, do you think you'll make sure that every plate that heads to that table is not the best goddamn plate you've ever assembled. I'd say the latter. As a reviewer I've seen it happen. When I worked as pastry chef in France and was faced with a GaultMillau critic, I was so petrified the dessert wouldn't be four-star perfect that my hands shook like crazy and I practically peed my pants (I was a very conscientious pastry chef). So I think having performed both these tasks now -- that of a chef faced with a reviewer and as a reviewer facing a chef -- that I'm allowed this opinion. Say what you want, but in my experience, anonymity matters. A lot. And by the way, I also like the places that treat everyone like a king. That's the way it should be. PS: Sorry to -- again -- get this thread off topic.

You can't write a Montreal restaurant guide and leave out Schwartz's. It's an institution, just like Beauty's. Snowdon's smoked meat is better, BUT I find the atmosphere depressing.

What do these White Castle burgers taste like?

Steve -- sweetie -- there is a world out there beyond New York, London, Provence, Paris and the Hamptons. I remember Paul Bocuse once telling me that his customers often included people from the working classes, and that he was very happy to see them there because he sees himself as one of them. Everyone is allowed to celebrate and a good restaurant treats all its customers like kings, not just the regulars. I hate seeing anyone get obvious preferential treatment in a restaurant, just about as much as I hate people who expect it. Yes, I went to Gramenon and tasted everything, including Michele Aubery-Laurent's homemade truffle pâté and olive oil. What a woman and what a magical place! Beaucastel was also pretty amazing, especially as Thomas Perrin was our guide. I'll post a report as soon as I can (I'm in the process of pitching the story around right now).

Welcome Alexander! Tell me, do you know if you can still get foot-long hotdogs at Lankey's in Grand Beach?

Class warfare??? Didn't you people have a revolution in 1775? Steve, if it weren't for your terrific Côtes du Rhône recommendations, I'd really go to town on you on this one. But in an effort to be civil... When I review restaurants, I'm not thinking of the food fetishists out there like you, and to some extent me. I'm thinking of the majority. Call them middle class, lower class what you will, most newspaper audiences do not include many Saveur subscribers, and certainly not the kind of people who like to increase their sense of self-importance by ordering off the menu. Ordering off the menu is such a load of horse shit anyway. A restaurant is a business, and the menu lists what they sell. I'm sure they can pull off a lot of pretty things on the side, but frankly I don't care. I'm writing for the masses (if I was writing a feature on the restaurant, its chef, its history and the like, then I might make a mention of it). I'm there for the people who might want to read a review before risking half a week's pay. Obviously, you can afford to take risks at restaurants and eat and drink whatever you want --on or off the menu. Most people don't have that privilege. Oh and just a little "off the menu" tip: When I worked as a pastry chef in a restaurant in France, we HATED people who ordered off menu. By the way, you were right. Gramenon was fantastic!

Steve P Spoken like a true New Yorker with a heavy wallet. Get real.

I have worked in restaurants where, when the Michelin man arrived, we would drop everything and work like dogs on his plates. I know a well-known chef who, when the local critic arrived in his new "bistro," pushed everything aside and made her a meal worthy of a four-star restaurant. I have reviewed restaurants where once the owner recognized me, the meal went from indifferent to overly attentive. Before I started doing this job, I never really thought it was all that important. Now, more than 150 reviews later, I see it as critical to an honest report. I'm there representing the customer, not filing a report for the food section. That's the way I see it.

I completely agree with Mebutter about the anonimity issue. It's too late for Hesser to be walking in to restaurants pretending nobody knows who she is. Unless she's in disguise, the opinion lacks credibility -- even of the cheap places. I know Asimov is a stickler when it comes to anonimity as, I believe, any good restaurant reviewer should be. I also think the points raised by Rachel on the other thread about conflicting statements are quite right. Doesn't Hesser have a team of sharp editors at her disposal?

"Of course, there is nothing else in Montreal that compares with Schwartz's either" Whoa! I'm not going to let that one slide by. Schwartz's is good fun but really...what's all the fuss about. I'm a born and bred Montrealer who has only been there once -- with a visiting food writer from New York. You want something comparable -- or better -- than Schwartz's, try the Snowdon Deli.

The recipe for brownies or strawberry mousse cake?

Please allow me to retract my comments about Claudine. They were based on second-hand reports. There's enough incorrect gossip flying around the food world and I shoudn't have added to it. Heck, I send food back in restaurants as well. Sorry to Claudine and all. Until I meet her face to face, I will abstain from any criticism. I bet it isn't easy to work with a star like Pepin, even if --or especailly if -- he's your father.

I've heard that Claudine is a little less than charming. When she was in Montreal filming an episode with pops, rumour has it she sent back all her food in one of the best local bistros. Jacques Pepin, however, is one of the greatest food personalities out there. When they cook together, I often wonder if they even like each other.

Those prices are pretty typical for high-end restaurants in Canada. That's why I keep telling Americans to get their butts up here. I think Steven's Fat Guy series on Canada should run in the States. I'm always amazed, and disappointed, to see how little Americans know or care about Canada -- especially food people, who should know better.

Well no Champagne for me with brownies. I actually make very intense brownies with Valrhona pure pate de cacao. They're cut small, quite soft inside and iced with a very thin layer of buttered-up ganache. These brownies aren't cakey; they're fudgey. A square with a glass of 1969 Banyuls would have you on your knees (then again that bottle without the brownies would have you on your knees). Anyway, I've never really enjoyed Champagne with chocolate ( IMO Champagne truffles are the biggest scam in the business). However, I quite like it with very light fruit mousses. This time of year -- and only this time of year -- you can make a wicked fresh strawberry mousse layered with with loads of thin jelly roll cake soaked in Kirsch syrup. A boring classic granted, but excellent in strawberry season when properly done. Now that I'd like with Champagne! So predictable. Wait, this sounds like another thread...

I think most green tea ice cream is made with powdered tea and usually whoever makes it puts WAY too much. It tastes like lawn clippings. I've had tons of green tea ice cream and maybe one that was worth more than two bites. Awful stuff. I also once tasted a green tea and Sake chocolate ganache and at a very formal Japanese dinner, wasabi ice cream. Don't ask!

With brownies I'd go for an aged Banyuls.

I find Nigella's style quite interesting. I used to find it annoying but now I quite like it.