Lesley C

I'm planning a trip to London soon and I’m interested in an upscale (nouvelle-style, perhaps) Indian restaurant. I was thinking Bombay Brasserie but I now have people in the know recommending places like Zaika, Quilon, The Cinnamon Club, Chutney Mary and The Parsee. I can probably only make it to one or two places. I'm not a big stickler for authenticity; what I'm after is something different and very good. Any suggestions?

When I started writing about food, I didn't know you could run a story using other people's recipes (even credited or adapted) and I worked like a dog to come up with original recipes for each story. Now from time to time, I'll use someone else's recipe if I'm that charmed by it, but I always see it as a cop-out. Maybe it's because I started as a chef. But boy, we're opening a huge can of worms on this subject. A lot of people think chefs make lousy food writers because they can't relate to the home cook. But what are the home cooks basing their writing on? As a reader, I'd much rather read a story about chocolate by Steve Klc than Coleman Andrews, information based on experience rather than research. Of course, it all depends on the subject. I know a New York chef who told me he was constantly getting requests from food writers for recipes. I can understand how the publicity can help a restaurant, but I certainly have more respect for a writer (like Amanda Hesser) who will develop a recipe of her own to run alongside a chef recipe or a recipe from a book. When it comes to magazines, I guess the anonymous people in the test kitchen make that choice. I mean, what would Martha Stewart be without Susan Spungen? But hey, I bet Susan Spungen is very well paid, and quite happy to work behind the scenes.

I'm a Nigella fan but it seems like most of her recipes are someone else's with a bit fiddling and something added to avoid it looking like a complete rip-off. Sure she gives everyone credit, but are any of her creations original? I'm starting to see her as someone who is awfully good at finding good recipes and choosing cute sweaters.

Yes, the "Urban Peasant" (Vancouverite and popular cooking-show host James Barber) told me the same thing about Vij's.

Hmm Suvir, interesting question. I have some friends who could tell you quite specifically how Indian food in Montreal compares to Indian food in London or Bombay. But considering the sheer size of Canada and the US, I think they could only give a very general impression. Indian food is very popular in Montreal but according to local authority Ashok Chandwani (my restaurant reviewing colleague at the Montreal Gazette), what we have here are many Bangladeshi restaurateurs who offer formulaic London-style Indian dishes as opposed to any specialties from their own country. What we’re also lacking in this city are upscale Indian restaurants, or restaurants that attempt to serve Tabla-style modernized Indian cuisine.

First off, Hi Patrice! Nice to run into you at Eric Fréchon last night! You were right, the desserts were the best part of the menu. I met the Bristol’s pastry chef, Gilles Marchal. What a sweetheart. Steve Klc, do you know him? You must know of him. We had a long discussion about the Paris pastry scene and how pastry chefs are now developing their own menus, managing their own staff (he has a staff of 20 at the Bristol, or was it 30?) and generally getting the respect they deserve. The big trend in Paris desserts according to Marchal is serving everything in glasses (no gelatin!), just like his dessert last night, a chilled chocolate sabayon with nougatine and spices topped with vanilla ice cream and gold leaf. He also served a miniature soufflé Grand Marnier with a glass of crème brulée and mulled red wine. Suvir, we have many excellent pastry chefs in Montreal, but most hide behind the doors of pastry shops, hotels (fewer and fewer) and restaurants (only the top restos here have pastry chefs). Many are from France but there are a lot of local chefs as well. The problem here is that many young people are opting out of cooking careers. The pay is often lousy and there are fewer and fewer places for them to exploit their talents. The number of pastry students in our hotel school is dropping year after year. Many hotels now opt to buy their pastry from a wholesaler, obviously caring more about quantity than quality (let’s just fill those brunch tables with lotsa cakes!). The pastry shop scene in Montreal is now dominated by one big name (Patisserie de Gascogne). With four, million-dollar stores in the city, this company has wiped out many of the smaller pastry shops and has taken away a lot of the momentum for young chefs willing to go into business on a small scale (that may change). Generally the quality of the pastry in Montreal is very high and the bread is superb. I can buy first-rate baguettes at my local supermarket. Of course, we’re famous for our bagels, which are far superior to anything I’ve tasted elsewhere (and I quite like those bready New York specimens). Steve Klc and Suvir, I would be more than happy to show the culinary sights in Montreal if you ever make it up here. I’d highly recommend a visit during this Festival. Where else can you eat at the hands of so many top chefs in one week? Be warned, however, February is about the worst month to be in Canada, unless you’re a skier (I hear Tourondel and DiSpirito both went up to Tremblant for a few days on the slopes before returning to NY). And Steve, please, no dessert competition! After scanning your web site and reading your posts, I’m sure my rusty pastry skills could hardly compete. I haven’t worked as a pastry chef for about 5 years now (my significant other could probably give you a run for your money though).

The chef from Clio, Ken Oringer (or is it Ohringer?) was in Montreal last year as guest chef at Toque!. He impressed the pants off everyone. People are still talking about his cocks comb soup, the tripe, and the hot/cold dessert.

I interviewed the French diet guru Michel Montignac last year who says chocolate above 70% cocoa content in fine -- even good -- for dieters. He also has no problem with creme brulee. As for flourless chocolate cake, I've never found better than Jean-Georges' mi-cuit au chocolate (a dessert he claims to have invented but some say really came from Michel Bras). I'd gladly post the recipe (very easy) from his book if you don't have it. Wait a minute...can I post a recipe here without getting in trouble?

My lips are sealed

David Van Laer (of Le Maxence) at the Montreal Casino last night served a caramelized endive with spice biscuit and maple syrup ice cream with an Inniskillin Icewine from the Niagara Peninsula. The wine was wonderful and worked very well with the spicy/herbal taste of the dessert. He served tarte aux pralines roses as mignardises. Very nice. I ended up at this --interesting -- dinner after having to cancel another where a certain well-known American chef was planning on serving sauteed mushrooms on toast, rack of lamb, goat cheese terrine and fruit salad. :confused: Tomorrow night, Eric Frechon, who I hear may be the hit of the festival so far. He also brought along his sous-chef and pastry chef -- and cod!

Both dinners were amazing, AMAZING! It’s hard to pick one over the other, but I think I’d give the edge to Lorain who has less of a flair for plate presentations but is more playful and creative with his ingredients (more on that dinner later). Tourondel drove to Montreal and brought his sous-chef, pastry chef and many ingredients – and all his sauces -- with him. The menu included: White mushroom velouté with a black truffle sabayon Diver sea scallops with a cauliflower mousseline and citrus caper beurre noisette Risotto of pan-seared lobster and foie gras with parmesan, sauternes emulsion Pistachio-crusted venison, porcini, caramelized chestnuts and cranberries Grapefruit sorbet with fromage blanc foam Lavender honey chocolate crumble with milk crème glacée The mushroom soup was heaven: rich and creamy soup, airy full-flavoured truffle foam topped with a large slice of black truffle. It was served with a wonderful little pain brioche laced with truffle butter and Fleur de Sel. The scallops had a crisp topping of brunoise-sized brioche cubes and the caper butter had an intense vinegar/butter flavour that contrasted so well with the earthy cauliflower. The risotto was probably my favourite dish: the lobster was tender, the rice was al-dente and creamy, and the emulsion (he’s big on emulsions) was strong enough to complement the foie gras (delicious) and lobster without overwhelming. The only small disappointment for me was the venison. The filet was a bit tough (should have brought my Laguiole), did not have a pistachio crust but a sprinkling of pistachios, and the chestnuts were floury —as chestnuts tend to be. A side dish of cranberry/ pear/ peppercorn chutney added a welcome sweet element (I only wish there had been more). The grapefruit sorbet was nice, if a bit underwhelming. The egg shell had a straight clean edge and I believe the fromage blanc was made with an iSi whipper (it was thicker than the other foamy emulsions). The dessert was very good, the mousse base had an almost ganache-like texture (thanks to the honey) that was offset so smartly with the chocolate crumble topping (somebody please give me this recipe). I found the ice cream (more of a sorbet au lait really) a bit dull next to the chocolate. The mignardises included rose water madeleines and a selection of chocolates from Cello, which were OK, but didn’t rock my world. This six-course menu cost $80 (about $50 US?) or $140 (about $85 US) with 5 glasses of excellent wine – a steal considering the number of courses and quality of ingredients (truffles, foie gras, lobster, venison, scallops). At the end of the service Tourondel came out to speak with us. He must be one of the nicest chefs I’ve ever met, and I’ve met my share of nice chefs. Not only is he enthusiastic about cooking and discovering new ingredients, but he only had kind words for his fellow New York chefs – especially the Americans. He also likes Montreal, which makes him a great guy in my books! Of the three nights he was in town, the first night (Sunday) was sold out and the third night (Tuesday) was overbooked, but the night I was there (Monday) I was sorry to see no more than ten people in the dining room. What impressed me about Tourondel’s dishes were the tasteful plate presentations, the perfectly balanced flavours (especially the sauces) and spot-on seasoning (Lorain’s food was much saltier). He told me he started as a pastry chef and it shows. Details like the brioche, quality of desserts, and mignardises made all the difference. But unlike Patrice, I was won over by his savoury dishes, especially the seafood. I was sorry we weren’t in a luxurious setting (Chez L’Epicier is cute, not grand) but in such humble surroundings, the food was the star of the show – as it should be. Tourondel tells me he’ll be writing a book this year on fish cookery for the home chef -- no stocks, no complicated chef recipes. I can hardly wait.

Sorry about the link. Try www.montrealhighlights.com and click on what you are interested in from there. I'll be going to about five guest chef dinners (Laurent Tourondel of Cello tonight, and Jean-Michel Lorain of the Cote St-Jacques tomorrow) and will try to post a few impressions ASAP. If you're interested book soon. I hear many of the chef dinners are already sold out.

I think you can really only enjoy and understand Paris if you speak French very well or if you are there with a Parisian. I love France, Paris especially, but I’ve seen the same French waiter who was very nice to me, treat American tourists like dirt. And I’ve seen this often. Also, I don’t know many French people who are wild about Americans. On the flip side, I find I dislike England more and more. Lately I’ve run into the rudest people in England. I seem to meet a large number of snotty men who drive little sports cars, and silicone-enhanced bleached blondes who carry on in “Nigella speak” (everything is either “brilliant” or “genius”). I’ll take a cute French waiter, pastry chef or butcher any day over that. When it comes to the States, New York and Boston are my favourite cities. I’ve rarely met an unfriendly American. What shocks me about Americans though is how little they know about Canada. I once had a woman in South Carolina ask me very seriously if there were polar bears in Montreal (a charming French chef once asked me if there were penguins in my back yard, but somehow it didn’t bother me as much). ;)

Thanks for posting your review on the Canadian board. As a restaurant reviewer I'd rate your satisfaction C. Although you were floored by the bill and disappointed by all but two courses, in the end, you describe the meal as excellent. Tell me, would you recommend this restaurant to a friend?

Thank you Andy! One can only hope this board will some day match the eccentric vernacular of the UK board. Come on Canadians, let loose!

Any e-gulleters visiting Montreal between Feb. 14th to March 3rd might be interested in the “Arts de la Table” events of the Montreal Highlights Festival, where visiting chefs from around the world are paired with local restaurants. This year’s lineup includes Laurent Tourondel (Cello), Kerri Simon (Prime), Jean-Michel Lorain (La Cote Saint-Jacques), Eric Fréchon (Le Bristol), David Van Lear (Le Maxence), Jean-Paul Thibert (Thibert), Rocco DiSpirito (Union Pacific), Tetsuya Wakuda (Tetsuya), and more. These diners are, for the most part, reasonably priced (lowly Canadian $$) and when the chef takes the time to get to know our ingredients, impressive. There are all kinds of other events as well: a massive choucroute feast by Antoine Westermann, pastry seminars by Gabriel Paillasson, wine tastings, cooking demonstrations. If anyone is interested, a complete list of guest chefs and events is available at the festival website http://www.montrealhighlights.com/english/...uests-list.html. Beware: the English translation is horrible.

Montreal is only a two hour drive from Ottawa. It would be worth the trip if you get really desperate.

What about that new sushi place, Kinki? I saw it featured on Opening Soon. Any good? It's a mystery to me why a great little city like Ottawa doesn't have tons of good restaurants. What about the French resto Henri Burger (is that the name of the place?). Or is that in Hull?

Apparently moose sweetbreads are the best of them all (no kidding). (Edited by Lesley C at 4:55 pm on Jan. 11, 2002)

From what I've read in the book, it has the potential of being wildly entertaining. I haven't laughed out loud at a book like this for a long time. I think this is a GREAT book. Good fun.

Tarte Tatin

One of the best things to eat frozen is Italian gianduja! I think American Hershey Bars are good for wolfing down (Canadian Hershey bars are tasteless and waxy) Kit Kats are quite nice, but someone tell me why the English Kit Kats are so much better than Canadian Kit Kats. They seem to be fresher and crunchier. There's a huge difference between a fresh commercial candy bar and a stale commercial candy bar (a fresh Mars bar is edible, a stale Mars bar is disgusting). Cote d'Or makes some nice praline-filled chocolate bars at ŭ a pop. I agree with Steve about the ice cream chocolate. The folks at Ben&Jerry's should be ashamed of the oil-based garbage they call chocolate chips.

I disagree. What a chef like Normand Laprise here in Quebec is producing is not immigrant cuisine at all. The man has his own style. Yes it is based on French technique (as is the norm on this side of the planet) and his ingredients are, for the most part, local. But the man is not making tourtiere, ragout de boulettes, or pied de porc (French Canadian "peasant" food). He's producing a kind of gussied-up, innovative, artistic, cutting edge (call it what you will) market cuisine, a bit like Charlie Trotter. Also, let's not confuse restaurant food with home cooking. If local chefs are guilty of one thing in Canada it's not a reliance on immigrant cuisine but the strong influence of North American haute cuisine -- call it the Art Culinaire syndrome.

OK, but then according to your interpretation of Canadian cuisine, American cuisine doesn't exist either. It's all just immigrant food. As for black flies and mosquitos, we don't have that problem in a big city like Montreal. It's just those pesky penguins and polar bears that keep getting in the way. I like to think that we can get passed this colonial approach to cuisine and claim that we do have a style unique to our region. Quebec produces world-class raw milk cheese, superb foie gras (just ask Charlie Trotter), wonderful venison, ice cider, and yes, maple syrup. We also produce very good chefs who work throughout the country and abroad -- kind of like our hockey players. At least the majority of the top chefs in our city are Quebeckers. Can you say the majority of top chefs in New York are New Yorkers? Or the top chefs in Toronto are from Ontario? I think that makes a huge difference when we speak of a region (or country) developing its own cuisine.

A pastry chef friend melts chocolate in the microwave in a stainless steel bowl. When I first saw this I ran for cover, but he assured me as long as the bowl was pure stainless steel, there wouldn't be a problem. So now, when I'm strapped for bowls and feeling lazy, I do it too. I know one day the microwave might give out, but there's no denying it works rather nicely -- no sparks, no explosions. You have to be careful to keep the bowl in the middle of the turn table and handle it with care because it heats up quite a bit (but not enough to hurt the chocolate).