Lesley C

Jinmyo, I'll race you on the four dozen.

When it comes to bacteria, the yolks are a bigger problem than the whites . Also, I've always used pasteurized whites for sticking marzipan. So there When I was a cooking teacher, I'd watch some people go out for a bathroom or cigarette break, come back to the kitchen, rinse their hands, wipe them in a dirty apron and start pulling the yolks out of a bowl of whites. It was really disgusting. And these people had all followed a strict hygiene course.

One of my big issues about separating eggs with your hands is when people crack a bowlful, then lift them out one by one. As soon as one yolk bursts, all the whites are ruined. No big deal for cooks (they usually pitch the whites), but tragic for pastry chefs who always need clean whites and plenty of them. Also Peter Wolf, pizza dough and meat are cooked. I've seen a chef use his hands on yolks destined for a mayonnaise and crème anglaise -- not good. Laurie A-B, Raw egg yolks are a breeding ground for bacteria. Don't ever assume that chefs always have impeccably clean hands. Also, the sharp egg shell is what makes separating with shells so quick; it slices the white from the yolk in about two transfers and allows you to cut the chalazae into the whites.

When done properly, shells are actually faster. Yeah... cooks use their hands; pastry chefs use the shells. Need I say more

I've been watching people separating eggs on the Food Network and I'm going nuts! So many of them use their hands, a practice I've always considered unprofessional and verging on disgusting. I only noticed the always great Jacques Pepin saying to use the shells, never your hands, and I think the America's Test Kitchen people were saying the same. So fess up, do you use your hands or the egg shells to separate eggs?

Ah, interesting. Thanks Eric. But Ferreira never intended to be a truly authentic -- dare I say old-style -- Portuguese restaurant. We have other restaurants here in Montreal with a far more traditional menu. Yes, Cafe Ferreira falls into the nouvelle Portuguese category, but by choice, not default. They also have an excellent selection of Portuguese wines and Ports.

Sandra's got it right. It's when the egg/sugar mix evolves from foamy to thick and pale, and leaves a ribbon-like trace when it falls from the beaters back onto the remining mixture. The eggs an sugar have usually tripled in volume when you reach the correct consistency. Anyone who has made a genoise or jelly roll sheet cake should be familiar with the ribbon stage.

Actually, as much as I adore Toque! I think there are plenty of restaurants in town that close to equal Toque! and many, many that are half as good. Let's not forget, the last time Gourmet came to Montreal, they placed La Chronique ahead of Toque! Also, many of the chefs who worked under Normand Laprise, such as Ian Perreault of Area , are setting up shop around town.

Eric, have you ever heard of Cafe Ferreira in Montreal? You can see the menu at http://www.ferreiracafe.com/ (and get some nice background music to boot). I'd love to know whether or not this looks authentic to you.

The brilliant step in that recipe is beating half the eggs and sugar to the ribbon stage. It's what gives you the nice crust. And by the way, as much as I'd like to take credit for this one, I just found it hidden away in the great Baking with Julia book. The recipe was contributed by one Richard Katz. Never heard of him, but after tasting those brownies, he's a star in my books.

Are you guys talking about the Henri Burger restaurant? Wasn't that considered the top restaurant in the area? If so, is it still?

Gosh, Jinmyo, tell it like it is. I can't judge because I haven't dined there in years, though I did have some terrific tourtieres from Les Fougeres last Christmas (but of course Les Fougeres is in Quebec isn't it ). Friends I trust say they are disapponited in the Ottawa dining scene. But with Bux's friend coming to town, things might be looking up. Sometimes it takes just one good new restaurant to get a city going. Gourmando, variety means little to me, I prefer quality. But that's me. I know plenty of foodies who appreciate variety.

OK Suvir, were they the best ever? Did you get the crackly crust and the squidgy interior? Did you enjoy that slight saltiness? Did you eat the whole pan?

I just had dinner with a friend from Ottawa in a run-of-the-mill Montreal restaurant and she told me there was nothing that good in Ottawa. Considering the high powered clientele, I've always been surprised there aren't more upscale places. One restaurant I'm sure must be good is the Baccarat at the Hull Casino. The chef there Francois Henchey (sp?) is wonderful.

Boy, what a thread. Getting back to Jay's original question... I can't quite relate to opinions on this subject offered by people who can afford to frequent three-star restaurants on a weekly, monthly or bi-yearly basis. You folks have money to spare. And I have to admit, working as a restaurant critic, I get to eat all kinds of fabulous meals for free. After a while you forget what it's like to pull out your own hard-earned cash and pay for a $40 slice of foie gras, a $50 veal chop, or -- God forbid-- a $15 dessert (no dessert is worth $15). But what about the people who save up for the starred restaurants only to walk away feeling ripped off, regretting they didn't use that money for something like a new roof or a down payment on a car. The important part of the how-much-is-too-much equation is customer satisfaction. I paid $400 (for two) for a crappy meal at The Square and $800 (for three, no wine) for a crappy lunch at Michel Trama's restaurant. Last year I forked over $300 (for one) for Tetsuya, and it was one of the worst meals of my life. In those three cases it was too much, and I was furious. When I ate at Bocuse (for about $400 for two), I walked away satisfied -- not wowed, but not ripped off. After many such experiences, I just don't care to take that risk anymore -- because that's what it is, a bit fat gamble. As much as I love searching out mind-boggling gourmet experiences, if someone said "Let's save up for Gagnaire," I wouldn't hesitate to answer "No thanks!"

Great news! From what I hear Ottawa could use some good restaurants.

No, I meant that. I like brownies to have a slight salty kick. It offsets their candy-like sweetness

The best brownnies I've ever tasted are the Best Ever Brownies from the Baking with Julia cookbook. Amazing texture with a nice crackled crust, intensely chocolate, and just a bit salty.

I'm going to get stoned for saying this but you have to hand it to Martha Stewart. She's pulls off a daily hour-long show and has what, six companies selling her stuff including everything from house paint to baby sweaters. The woman may be difficult, corrupt or what have you but there's no denying she leaves everyone else -- including Emeril -- in the dust. And her guests are the best of the best.

vanilla

Nigella Lawson has a great recipe for fried chicken (first poached in milk) in the Nigella Bites book.

That recipe is great when you have to pipe out kilos of the stuff when making bands for Charlottes. If you do get a chance to do them again, let me know what you think.

Malawry, your recipe for ladyfingers looks like the classic but I've never seen the yolks and sugar heated before being beaten (as in a genoise). You might try another method I learned in France, which doesn't seem to fall as quickly as the classic and is much faster. Beat the whites into a stiff meringue with all the sugar. Meanwhile in a small bowl, whisk the yolks to liquify. When the meringue is ready, add the beaten yolks, continue to beat about five seconds, then turn off the machine. Fold in the flour and pipe as usual. Try it, you'll like it.

I do subscribe, but the mag always arrives halfway through the month. Just one small question please. Did they include any Canadian restaurants this year? They used to cover Montreal and Toronto --and once upon a time, Vancouver -- but dropped all three last year.

Steve, thank you for that post. Reminded me how much I love French bistro food in Paris. I would have ordered exactly the same thing. Rilettes, grilled lamb chops, haricots verts, and fraises des bois with glace aux oeufs a la vanille... life doesn't get much better than that. Boy, I have to get back to Paris soon.