David Ross

I also have the Cuisinart electric self-freezing model. It's a bit heavy and loud. I paid around $300 US for it a couple of years ago at Williams Sonoma. My standard recipe calls for a custard base which I chill for about 8 hours before processing in the Cuisinart. It takes about 40 minutes to process a quart of ice cream. It's far superior to the cheap ice cream makers.

Fantastic! Thanks for the details. While I don't think I'll engineer something that large, I've always been intrigued about the idea of making a custom spit so I may have to use your report as the basis for getting going on my project. By the way, do you have any close-up photos of the meat? I'd be interested in seeing the finished dish. Second question, I assume since you noted the lamb was about 40 lbs. that it was a Spring Lamb from this year? Where did you source the lamb? Was it from a local farmer or through the internet? I'd be interested in spit-roasting a whole lamb, but I might be interested in spit roasting a mutton leg if I could find it.

Hope you all have a wonderful time--you are obviously off to a great start. I'll be following your adventures from the Pacific Northwest. Eat more than you can imagine is possible.

I was fortunate to have been invited to a private screening of "Julie and Julia" in May when I was in Las Vegas reporting on "Klatsch: Popping the Cork in Vegas." I included some thoughts about the movie in our discussions. At the time, I thought the film was fun in terms of the relationship between Julie's blog and Julia's life in France. I didn't take it too seriously at the time and other than a quick visit to Julie's blog after seeing the film, I haven't been back. In the months since I saw the film, I've found myself reading through the copy of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" that was given to each member of the screening audience. I think that's a credit to the film that a few months later I'm still thinking about it. I've always been a fan of Julia Child, and the release of the movie is certainly going to generate renewed interest in her work and I suppose many hits to Julie's blog.

Ping Pang Pong is much, much better than either Red 8 or Noodles-and all the other Asian places at the Resort/Casinos in the same class. I specify the same class because at the high-end of the scale in terms of price and service are some incredibly good Asian restaurants like Wing Lei at Wynn. But the middle of the road places just aren't anything memorable. One tip for Ping Pang Pong is to go early, as in be lined-up at the door when it opens for dim sum. My oh my is it good. Just refer back to Steven's report here for an in-depth report on Asian dining in Las Vegas--and our wonderful dim sum lunch at Ping Pang Pong.

I absolutely love gooseberries, yet sadly, they have pretty much fallen out of favor in my neck of the woods. It seems as though a lot of people haven't even heard of a gooseberry. (Maybe it's just a sign of my age group). It's too bad since our climate is perfect for growing gooseberries. In late June of every year I get a gallon bag of fresh green and pink gooseberries near my Mother's home in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The pink berries seem to be a bit sweeter. While we typically associate gooseberries with baking, jams and preserves, last week I made both a sweet dish and a savory dish. I made my Grandmother's traditional gooseberry pie with the green berries--and a savory dish--gooseberry chutney using a combination of green and pink berries. (I did the same thing with some fresh rhubarb-both a sweet pie and a savory chutney). I wasn't sure if gooseberries would work in a chutney as I'm not that experienced in cooking with them. I worried that maybe I wouldn't get the liquid ratio correct, so I just went ahead and used the same chutney recipe I use for rhubarb--fruit, onion, currants, golden raisins, onions, garlic, brown sugar and a good lick of apple cider vinegar--all stewed down into a chutney. I plan on using the gooseberry chutney throughout the Summer on grilled chicken, duck, quail and a nice rack of lamb.

You are of course right, I got my Chef Keller's mixed up!

I'd like to see Thomas Keller. But I don't think that will happen. I think I'd faint twice and die from intimidation if I were in a competition and he was a judge. ← I think it is highly doubtful it will be Thomas Keller. My guess Joel Robuchon. He may very well be more intimidating then Thomas, if so. ← How about Guy Savoy? Both? ← I would think with the "American television" hint it narrows it down to those two. ← Thomas Keller has been a judge on past seasons and he was mentioned in the press release as appearing again this year. I wasn't so sublime with my "American television" hint now was I? But consider that Guy Savoy and Joel Robuchon are but two of the three world-class French Chefs who have restaurants in Las Vegas. There is of course, a third, Alain Ducasse. A portion of the filming of "Top Chef: Season 6," Las Vegas, took place this past May while I was in town reporting on Vegas Uncork'd for our Klatsch discussion here . If you've followed "Klatsch: Popping the Cork in Las Vegas," you've noted that I attended events during the week that included Robuchon, Savoy and Ducasse. In fact, all three were sat together at a panel discussion--a rare event indeed. I 'm not privvy to the precise details of the filming of Top Chef nor who exactly will appear as a judge. But considering that these three French Masters were all in Las Vegas attending "Uncork'd" at the time of filming--and getting all three in town at the same time is a major undertaking--I am sure we are in for some surprises on this season's show.

I'm a traditionalist and just use butter and flour for thickening my fruit pies. The only thing I change is the ratio of flour to butter depending on the juice in the fruit. For example, I might use more flour to soak up the juices in a peach pie. I've never liked the end result of fruit pies thickened with cornstarch or tapioca. Just don't like the taste, texture and appearance. I prefer the more natural result of the fruit juices lightly thickened with flour and butter. The result is a pie with juices that run onto the plate. I know a lot of friends and family that don't like that end result because they are used to store-bought fruit pies that have that thick jelly sort of texture.

It might be worth a trip for lunch if you're staying at Caesar's, but like a lot of the so-called "casual" Asian restaurants in the strip hotels, it's over-priced and the food is only good, not great. The decor and the guy making noodles up front are the first draw for the throngs that walk past, but once you get inside, it's not really a memorable experience. The barbecued meats are decent as are the noodles. For the small cost of the cab fare, you'd have a much better meal for around the same price over at Ping Pang Pong in the Gold Coast Hotel.

While the press releasse announces some of the Chefs that will be "featured" on the upcoming season of Top Chef--including Boulud, Hubert Keller and Paul Bartolotta--anticipate seeing some other world-class Chefs on the judging panel. Think in terms of Chefs who have namesake restaurants in Las Vegas who we don't often see on American television.

I have a Farberware electric skillet that my Mother bought with S&H Green Stamps. (That tells you how old it is--and how old I am). Mother has another electric skillet at home that she still uses. I'm not sure of the origins of the skillet Mother uses today, it probably came to her through redeeming green stamps or a coupon that she pulled out of a box of soap. My electric frying pan sat for years in a dark corner of the pantry cabinet--only to be resurrected about two years ago and I've been using it regularly ever since. I was somewhat embarassed to use it--a silly thought since I cook alone and no one would ever know, (until today), that I use this decidedly "retro" piece of cookware. But now I openly admit it--I love my electric frying pan. It is just over 12" in diameter and nearly 3" deep. It has an incredibly reliable thermostat and heat control. It is quite good at searing pork chops, but the best use of my electric skillet is for frying oysters. The skillet only uses about 1/2" of oil. The oil is heated to 350 in just a few minutes, and the skillet automatically adjusts the temperature of the oil to keep it constant throughout the frying process. I'm guessing my electric skillet is about 45 years old, and while it's showing some battle scars, I'm hoping it will last for many years to come.

I'm on my third read of "On the Line" and I've only had it since February. I've gotten a lot of odd looks and comments from my fellow commuters at 520am in the morning. When they glance over and see that I've got a book open to a page about butchering fish, they wonder exactly what type of job I'm commuting to. It's a fascinating read into the world of Le Bernadin. I've found it quite refreshing to learn that the staff appreciates the value of traditional customer service and a devotion to detail at the highest levels. The only downfall to the book-it's a bit too heavy to lug in an already over-packed carry-on that has to pass the muster of the TSA twice a day.

I have no sound reasoning to back-up why I hate this word, I just do: "cloying"

McWilliams isn't subtle; I'd call him unsentimental. I'd also not characterize his piece on disease among free-range swine with the word "attack," a perjorative that indicates, um, bias. He is a (his words) "concerned consumer trying to get to the bottom of what we eat." I don't understand why McWilliams is obligated to highlight farms that adhere to explemplary standards. Would we be better off not having the information he presents? More to the point, if he's succeeded in "narrowing the distance in the minds of consumers" between factory farming and free-range, that's a service, because the distance in a significant number of cases is narrower than most people think. ← I don't have a problem with McWilliams or anyone else pointing out that even "free-range" doesn't necessarily mean "cruelty-free" and that some "free-range" farms may use techniques that on the surface appear and may even be cruel to various extents, however, he paints with too broad a brush and incriminates many farms and practices beyond what they deserve. I believe that it is his obligation in pointing out practices that he deems questionable, that these practices are not, in fact, universal. No doubt that the term "free-range" has to some extent, been co-opted as has the term "organic" diluting its meaning and value to consumers. This remains a good reason to know your farms and farmers if at all possible. Janet, there is no such thing as a source of meat that doesn't harm animals. The question is are the animals treated reasonably well and have they been better off than had they lived in other circumstances or would they have been better off if they had not lived at all? ← I agree. While I don't doubt McWilliams credentials or the validity of his sources, my earlier point was that I would have preferred to have been presented a more balanced piece--something I think he would have achieved through a first-hand experience in speaking with the farmer's and even better, a trip to the farm to add that balance to the piece. The mass consumer, (not necessarily the informed consumer that visits these forums), could come away after reading McWilliams piece as an indictment of any hog-farming practice that labels their products as "free-range," and that's what concerns me--the confusion that it potentially adds for the consumer searching for answers to an already confusing issue.

Maybe I missed something after I read, then re-read, McWilliams piece on Slate. Are his opinions based in fact--er, having actually spent time on a farm and witnessing the actual castration of the hogs? Or, since there are skads of reports on the internet that he can quote regarding how free-range hogs are raised, did he simply paste together some of those reports? Finally, does it matter that he didn't visit the farms himself? Can his piece withstand challenges if he didn't witness the farming practices first-hand?

All I can say is the natural bounty of Oregon is a perfect match for foie gras, especially this time of year when gooseberries, marionberries, logan berries and so many more sweet berries and fruits are in season. I suppose it's too much to ask of the protesters to sample a delicious slice of foie gras terrine with some rhubarb compote. It could change their minds on how the fowl are raised.

Don't be so hard on yourself. I would describe your meatballs as "rustic," and I am sure, like the rest of the meal portrayed in your photos, the meatballs were delicious.

Every year during apricot season I make an apricot tart that starts with a shortbread crust to which I add toasted hazelnuts. I bake the tart shell, let it cool, then add a nice layer of cooled, stiff creme patisserie. If you can find it at your local liquor store/liquor section of your market, add some apricot liqueur to the pastry cream. Next, add some halved apricots on top of the tart. Sometimes I poach the apricots in a simple syrup with a vanilla bean, sometimes I'll add some sweet wine to the poaching liquid, other occasions I'll just add raw apricots to the tart. You can also go retro and broil halved apricots before adding them to the tart. Generally, if I'm cooking the apricots I do that separately and then add them on top of the pastry cream in the tart shell. It's a pretty simple recipe, but one that gives you pure apricot flavors along with buttery, flaky pastry and a bit of texture from the hazelnuts.

The changing status over at rm is both interesting and confusing. So I'll offer what I know, but I may be giving out of date information. It is of course always best to call--say during the evening when the restaurant is actually open--to get an accurate account of things. The "Cafe" which is what we referred to in the past as the "downstairs" restaurant is still open. It's a casual experience where you can sit at the bar and have beers and oysters, or sit down and have some grilled seafood. Don't expect a tasting menu and formal service. The last I heard, and again I may be quoting a service that is out of date, is that the bar in the "upstairs" dining room is still open and they are serving some upscale dishes. I believe that is where the aforementioned tastings of ice creams are served. I applaud Chef Rick Moonen and the quite talented Chef Adam Sobel for bridging the gap across this economic river of despair. Rather than just shuttering the place, they are making every effort to keep things going, and the name of rm Seafood in front of the customers so they are ready to jump back in full-on once things improve.

Thank you for your service as a host John--and thank you for all the wonderful reports on dining in France.

Hmm. I'm not yet enough of a grilled pizza expert to say from experience if this would work. But I do a version of this, I'll call it the "two-step cheese process," when I make pizza in the oven. I'll par-bake the crust, then add a thin scattering of cheese and turn the pizza back in the oven to get the cheese melting. Then out of the oven, sauce, toppings, more cheese. Back in the oven to get things baking and the cheese starting to melt. Then a final blast under the broiler to get the top bubbling and caramelized. I don't do this trick with the cheese as a standard-just sometimes. It gives you another layer of cheese flavor. You could do it on the grill, but it would probably take some finesse as our photos and discussions above demonstrate. In other words, you'll probably have to par-bake your crust on the grill. Slip it off, add the cheese, then maybe back on the grill again with your toppings. Since the discussions have shown that a grilled pizza doesn't typically have a lot of sauce or toppings, I'm not so sure the idea of putting cheese down first, then a layer of sauce, would make any difference in the taste of a grilled pizza. I see a grilled pizza as more of a blotch of sauce here, some cheese over there, a few olives, some thinly sliced sausage scattered around--all basically cooking and melting at the same time. Anyone else have experience with this method of "cheese under the sauce" as it applies to a grilled pizza?

What a wonderful report along with quite delicious photos. The above dish sounds like it involved some strong competing flavors, namely bottarga, fennel, tarragon and saffron. I'm curious how you felt those flavors both balanced and contrasted one another? And--what did you think of the sweet flavor of the currants in the dish? I'd love to answer the question myself by taking a trek East to dine at Per Se in New York, but that is out of the question. I'll live my Per Se experience through your excellent report.

I'm just getting caught up on all the delicious dishes displayed here--and your Fried Green Tomato BLT really, really caught my eye. How delicious. I can see myself eating that for breakfast, lunch AND dinner! Tell us about the coating for the tomatoes and how you go about frying them. I haven't ever worked with frying green tomatoes, but I think I'll start this summer.

There actually is a producing orchard run by the University of Nevada in North Vegas run by a great guy named Bob Morris. It is primarily for research, therefore not open to the public, staffed mostly by volunteers from the Master Gardener program. I worked up there last summer and quite a few restaurants in Las Vegas were purchasing the variety of products that are grown up there. In fact the first Slow Food dinner that was out here featured quite a few Nevada products (beef, green almonds, peaches, etc.) Being both a chef and a master gardener it was a really dreamy, albeit surreal, experience to work up there. Off the top of my head the orchard produces several varieties of peaches, apricots, plums, pluots, grapes, apples, figs, pomegranates, almonds, table grapes, wine grapes, melons, onions, asparagus, blackberries, tomatoes, garlic and of course nopal cactus. I know that a few restaurants, both local and in some of the resorts, even Whole Foods on W. Charleston, were getting product from the orchard last year. Things can indeed grow in the desert, it just takes a different toolbox, a lot of patience, and a bit more trial and error than the average garden for things to thrive. ← Wow, a Master Gardener and a Chef-I'm envious. Thanks for relating your story. This is exactly the type of movement that we discussed at "Uncork'd" and one that needs to continue. It's going to be a matter of the Chefs of Las Vegas, the locals and the media of giving the movement the support it needs. We probably all agree that the sheer amount of food products served every day in Las Vegas is far greater than any local agricultural movement will ever be able to supply. But isn't that true of nearly any large city in America? In any case, the "Farm to Table" movement makes sense for so many reasons given the limitations of Las Vegas.