David Ross

My next report will be on a class that I took at "Uncork'd"-"Culinary Revelations: Sweet Classics Gone Contemporary." Our class will be taught by two of the young Pastry Chefs of Las Vegas-and hopefully we'll learn how to create restaurant quality pastry at home.

While I agree that it would have been interesting to have Chefs from other cuisines on a panel, in this particular case, the theme was the "French Connection" and so it was specifically directed to French Cuisine. It was pretty apparent that these Chefs are defenders, arguably elitist, in their regard of French cuisine. Certainly the financial backing of the Casino Hotels is what brought these Chefs to Las Vegas. Their contracts apparently read like the contracts of some of the top Entertainers that appear in Las Vegas. Every detail is looked over, including transportation, accomodation, a montly fee and a percentage of the monthly revenue from the restaurant.

Tilapia is a heavily farmed fish, readily available and inexpensive. It's a nice bland fish to work with, but has nothing to it that compares with Sea Bass. The US farmed fish is even a "Best Choice" from Seafood Watch. clicky ← Thanks for adding the link to the Seafood Watch from Monterey Bay Aquarium. That was something that came up during our "Farm to Table" discussion that I'll be reporting on. The Seafood Watch encourages consumers and those in the restaurant industry to make choices to promote the health of our oceans. There's an iPhone feature that allows the consumer to download the latest information so that it's available when you shop at the market for seafood. There is more information here.

On Friday morning I attended the “French Connection” panel discussion-one in a series of panels that form the “Culinary Conversations” offered at “Uncork’d.” The “French Connection” panel gave guests the opportunity to meet and discusss the importance of French cuisine with three of the world’s top French Chefs, (and to witness them sitting next to one another). It was more than worth the $40 cost of the ticket. Of course you are aware of these Chefs, but I’ve added the names of their Las Vegas restaurants for our reference. The “French Connection” panel discussion was held in the ornate Fontana Lounge at Bellagio. The panel was comprised of (from left to right)- -Frank Savoy, Manager, Guy Savoy, Caesar’s Palace -Chef Guy Savoy, Guy Savoy, Caesar’s Palace -Chef Francois Payard, Payard Patisserie and Bistro, Caesar’s Palace -Chef Daniel Boulud, Daniel Boulud Brasserie, Wynn -Chef Alain Ducasse, Mix, Mandalay Bay -Chef David Werly, Le Cirque, Bellagio -Barbara Fairchild, Editor-In-Chief, Bon Appetit Magazine -Alan Richman, Food Journalist -John Curtas, Food Journalist I suppose foie gras at 10:30a.m. is appropriate for a discussion of French cuisine on a Friday morning in Las Vegas. Vacherin of Foie Gras, Rhubarb Compote, Fresh Strawberry and Lava Salt- Citrus Infused Salmon Gravlas, Spot Prawn, Cucumber Bloom, Crème Fraiche- What I hope you will discover, just as I did, is that the opinions and thoughts of the distinguished Chefs on the “French Connection” panel are rooted in tradition. They are passionate about preserving those French culinary traditions, yet at the same time they are dedicated to furthering the “evolution” and influence of French cuisine. (Not just in Las Vegas but around the world). As the Chefs were introduced, what struck me the most were their personal stories about how growing up in a culture based on food and dining influenced their passion in life. Guy Savoy related the most poignant story, and it’s a story that speaks to the respect of the French culinary tradition. Chef Savoy doesn’t speak fluent English, so his son Frank translated the story. (And translated again through my notes)- “My earliest memory of cooking was when I was a very young boy. I remember my Mother took flour, butter, sugar and eggs and made these cookies. She put them on a baking sheet and put it in the oven. Then the cookies came out of the oven. I still remember how they smelled. It was magical.” It is that sense of tradition, the “magic” of baking a cookie with simple, fresh ingredients, that is a part of the soul of these distinguished French Chefs. They have all gone on to win Michelin stars-yet they have never lost the “magic.” I had come prepared with two questions for the panel: -Do the Chefs find any difficulty in getting quality products shipped to Las Vegas and does the product suffer during shipping? -How do the menus in Las Vegas differ from their menus in Paris? I quickly found out that this illustrious panel didn’t need to be prompted with pre-scripted questions. The answers to my questions came out naturally and were quite short and succinct. We should start with one looming question that is rabidly discussed among the food crowd, yet I’m not so sure we’ve ever really asked the Chefs. What brings a French Chef to Las Vegas? Chef Werly spoke for the group when he said that the “people from around the world who come to Las Vegas and give us, (the Chefs), the opportunity to work in this unique environment.” And building on the point of why most of the top French Chefs in the world have come to Las Vegas, Savoy added that “we, (the French), like competition. To push Chefs to be at this level, pushes exceptional products to them.” The question of bringing quality products to Las Vegas is a hotly debated subject in culinary circles-and the debate doesn’t just center on French cuisine but all of the cuisines served in Las Vegas. Yet high-end French restaurants bring the issue to the forefront. As far as Ducasse, Savoy, Boulud, Payard and Werly are concerned, there is always “FedEx!” Their focus is on finding the freshest, highest-quality, “seasonal” products-from anywhere in the world. The lobsters from the coast of Brittany and the truffles from Perigord do not suffer during the flight to Las Vegas. (We will discuss this issue of products later when I do an in-depth review of the “Farm to Table” panel). The Chefs do not create a menu that is specific to Las Vegas. They intention is to serve the same basic menu that you will find should you dine with them in Paris. They are solely focused on Las Vegas-they want their customers to enjoy their signature cuisine in Las Vegas. To them, Las Vegas is not merely a tourist destination for Americans, but an oasis for travelers from around the globe and they want everyone to have the French experience. To this point, Savoy said that “no matter the place, Paris or Las Vegas, it is the experience, the ‘moment’ of the place, that matters.” They do, however, appropriately change individual dishes due to product availability and the creativity of their Chefs in Las Vegas. And by the way, this issue brought forward the question of how often the Chefs come to Las Vegas. One of the great criticisms of “celebrity,” (for lack of a better word), Chefs who have restaurants in Las Vegas is that they are never in the kitchens here-and as a result the quality and integrity of the cuisine suffers. Ducasse, Savoy and Boulud were very adamant that this is not the case. First, the Chefs in their Las Vegas restaurants are as qualified, if not more so, than they are. They can not settle for anything less. I can report that the accounts of Ducasse rarely coming to Las Vegas are not accurate. According to the Chefs: -Ducasse-every 2-3 months -Boulud-every 2-3 months -Savoy-four to five times a year -Payard-2-3 times a month Once the discussion about issues specific to Las Vegas ended, the passion behind French tradition came forward and served to move the conversation to one of French technique and the current state of “trendy” cuisine. It wasn’t a surprise to hear the Chefs voice their passionate defense of the foundations of French cuisine-including technical skills in preparing French cuisine-the proper way to prepare a foie gras terrine or the proper method for cutting Spring vegetables. Boulud was the most vocal advocate of the French tradition, and his comments about French technique and his displeasure with young Chefs whose skills are lacking will certainly evoke some emotion and debate among us. Boulud used Chef David Chang as the basis of his argument. Now before I go further, let me say that I do not know Chef Chang nor have I ever dined at one of his restaurants. I only know of his food through the reviews I read. So I’m not qualified to explicitly endorse or deny Chef Chang’s talents. Certainly there are many people who have been amazed by his abilities. Boulud reminded the audience that Chang spent time studying at the French Culinary Institute in New York. He spent time in Boulud’s “Café Boulud” kitchen before branching out on his own. According to Boulud, Chang wouldn’t be as successful today with the cuisine he is creating if he didn’t have a French foundation to back it up. So I stop and ask the question- Does a young Chef today have to have a firm foundation in the traditions of French cuisine-the technical abilities, the respect of French tradition, the respect for ingredients and pure flavors-in order to be successful at the highest level? Inevitably, the entre´ of Chang into the discussion gave further impetus for the passion of the French to voice their displeasure over the “trendy” cuisine of today and the “scientific experimentation” going on in Spain. Ducasse said that “we (the French), will always have a cuisine with identity”-a personal reference to his disdain for some of the “trendy” cuisine today that lacks a true identity. Boulud took up the charge, “trendy cuisine is easy to hide behind-you can’t hide behind French cuisine. Trendy cuisine can be very creative and very good, but it has no identity. People will get sick of trendy, ‘fusion’ cuisine.” And Boulud continued, “without the French, there wouldn’t be the foundation, either good or bad, regardless of the level of skill. We first learn, then we go to the original, the Brasserie, and then, for some, haute cuisine.” Chef Werly gave a practical example with his Vacherin of Foie Gras dish. He said that without classical, technical training, a Chef could destroy a beautiful and expensive product like foie gras. At the top levels, a Chef should know how to treat foie gras. It isn’t always appropriate to pair an ingredient like foie gras with something like chocolate just to create a “fusion” dish that sounds trendy. Ducasse added that “we learn in classic French technique as a base. David Chang for example. Then, we transmit to young Chefs, like the Spanish. France is the reference point.” The French Chefs couldn’t resist making a few remarks about Spanish Chefs. In particular, Boulud decried what he called is a “revolution” among the Spaniards with the “molecular gastronomy” faction on one side and the “tradionalists” on the other side. Chef Boulud said that the French take a more practical view of their cuisine and it is an “evolution” rather than a “revolution.” French cuisine can adapt. And Ducasse added that his restaurants “are for today, yesterday and tomorrow.” Are the Spanish Chefs on the cutting edge of developing the next great cuisine of the world-marrying the old with the new? Have they sought wisdom and skill in the French model? Is French cuisine “evolving?” Is it moving away from the “haute cuisine” of the past? From left to right: Frank Savoy, Manager, Guy Savoy Las Vegas, Chef Werly, Chef Payard, Barbara Fairchild, Chef Savoy, Chef Ducasse, Chef Boulud, Mario Maccioni, Manager, Le Cirque Las Vegas- I bring to you not just a review of the “French Connection” panel discussion, but a presentation of issues for us to debate. I don’t tacitly agree with all of the arguments supported by the French, but I certainly agree with these Chefs that the issues are of great importance in order for us to move cuisine forward. What do you think?

My evening did not end after dinner at Payard on Thursday night. I am normally not awake during the hours of 11:30pm until 2:30am, but I was going to make every physical sacrifice necessary to be one of the 35 guests at L’Atelier on Thursday night and savor the experience of Chef Joel Robuchon’s presence at the “Theater in the Kitchen.” (One quick note, the current “Menu Degustation” at restaurant Robuchon next door to L’Atelier is priced at $385). Tickets for the Robuchon event sold out very quickly. The evening was promoted as a chance for guests to “experience the cuisine of the ‘Chef of The Century,’ Joël Robuchon, and the magic of the artist’s studio (L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon) amid an exclusive performance from MGM Grand’s KÀ by Cirque du Soleil.” From the moment I saw the inclusion of Cirque du Soleil on the program, I was skeptical. How would they pull off this “Theater in the Kitchen” with one of Las Vegas’s Cirque productions? Would this turn out to be just another over-the-top Las Vegas show production, albeit with a food theme? How would they perform in this tiny restaurant-a small kitchen surrounded by an eating bar, and how would the production maintain both the dignity and integrity of Robuchon and his cuisine? The “performance” began with the lights coming down and then the music began-a very moody, dark, brooding, opening to “Act I,” as Robuchon and one of the performers entered the kitchen. And so the production began as the staff followed into the kitchen. “Act I” brought the openers, “Act II” the main dishes and “Act III” the desserts. Each “Act” was introduced by a small group of the performers from “KA.” During normal service, up to 8 cooks “perform” in the tiny L’Atelier front kitchen. One cook to sauté the scallop, one to place the skewer, one to season and garnish, then a waiter for service. It is, quite visibly, a production. The craftsmanship displayed on the plates by the Chefs at L’Atelier is akin to the technical skills and artistry that go into creating a theatrical production, the cook as artist if you will. The “cast” also includes Managers, Waiters and Sommeliers. Chefs finishing plates before service- I was fortunate to have the best seat in the house-at the counter opposite Chef Claude Le Toic, Robuchon’s top Chef in Las Vegas. Chef Le Toic slicing “Jamon Iberico” from Spain- Jamon Iberico, Tomato, Crouton, Basil- This was my first taste of Jamon Iberico. The ham had a sweet, nutty, very lightly salted flavor. Warm Oyster, Butter, Lemon, Piment d’Espelette- Dungeness Crab, Curry, Turnip- Smoked Salmon in Gelee, Spring Pea- Lobster, Basil Puree- Hangar Steak, Shallot Confit, Puree de Pommes de Terre- Beef, Foie Gras, Brioche- Sea Scallop, Butter, Lemon, Oregano- The introduction of “Act III”- Chocolate- Baba Au Rhum- Robuchon- I suppose one could go on longer with a descriptive narrative of the similarities between a theatrical production like “KÀ” by Cirque du Soleil and the theatrics of the Robuchon kitchen. Of course, few venues set the stage for that narrative better than Las Vegas. But aside from the mystical music, the lavish costumes and the beautiful vocals of the performers that night at L’Atelier, one piece of artistic expression stood out, and that was the cuisine of Robuchon. After the “performance” ended, (at 1:30am), the guests were invited to receive a “signed” copy of Robuchon’s latest cookbook, “The Complete Robuchon.” (Random House, 2008). In reality, one had to stand in line for upwards of 30 minutes to receive a pre-signed book that Robuchon then personalized with the recipients name. I had a different plan for Chef Robuchon. One of the first introductions American home cooks had to the name Robuchon came when the cookbook “Simply French” written by Patricia Wells made its debut. (William Morrow, 1991)- On page 205 of the cookbook, American’s were introduced to Robuchon’s recipe for “Puree de Pommes de Terre”-Potato Puree- Robuchon’s recipe has become a standard in restaurants throughout the world. Yet duplicating the original is rarely done properly. The recipe involves a precise ratio of potato, milk and butter. The technique involves stirring the potatoes after they are mashed to extract moisture, and passing the puree through a tamis or strainer to break down the fibers into a silky potato puree. I brought “Simply French” with me to the “Theater in the Kitchen.” Chef Robuchon doesn’t speak much English. But as he made the rounds to thank the guests, I brought out my tattered, torn copy of “Simply French.” Chef Robuchon didn’t need to voice the words “thank you” in perfect English for me to realize the pleasure that I gave him by offering my copy of "Simply French." He was surprised, amazed really, and filled with pride and joy that someone had brought “Simply French” to Las Vegas. Chef Robuchon and I sat together at the base of the stage and I opened the cookbook to page 205. I handed him my pen, and he signed his signature recipe with these words, (very loosely translated into English by another French Chef)- “David, the condition of these pages show that this recipe can be made by the home cook for the family. A pleasure. Joel Robuchon. Las Vegas, May 8, 2009." Robuchon is recognized for haute cuisine-and I am sure plenty of the guests in attendance thanked him for the voluptuous "Foie Gras Parfait." But I sensed that Robuchon was more pleased in knowing that I had cooked his potato recipe in my home kitchen.

Doc, I fully agree with you and I'm glad you noticed that "Chilean Sea Bass" was on the menu at Payard. Honestly I would have overlooked this important issue. I'll be going into more detail on this subject when I get to my full report on the "Farm to Table" panel. But in short, I can share some insight about Chilean Sea Bass that I gained at this morning's discussion. Chilean Sea Bass, (the true name of the species being Patagonian Toothfish), has been overfished and scarred the environment. The fishing methods typically used involved huge nets that trap a vast bycatch of other fish and sea birds. On the panel this morning were Chefs Rick Moonen, Paul Bartolotta and Bradley Ogden-each proponents of fresh, seasonal, locally-sourced products. Chef Moonen is one of the leading voices among chefs when it comes to promoting sustainable seafood that is harvested using methods that are ecologically appropriate. Chef Moonen and Chef Bartolotta are two of America's top seafood Chefs. Both were very adamant that- -Chilean Sea Bass should not be served on any menu, regardless of whether or not it comes from a certifiable source. (As doc pointed out, the mere association of putting an overfished species on a menu could be perceived as an endorsement of the practice-even if the fish served comes from a certifiable source). -Chefs absolutely have a responsibility to source certifiably sustainable seafood-and, they absolutely have a responsibility to share that information with their customers. -Chefs should be more than cooks. They have a responsibility to inform and promote sustainable seafood through their work-which in turn can have the effect of influencing how we, as consumers, purchase seafood to cook at home. (More on that later). The Chefs did not directly address the issue of why, or would, a Chef list Chilean Sea Bass on a menu if in fact it was another species of Bass. Certainly they agreed that would not be ethical--but I have a sense they realize it happens. They don't agree with that practice nor is it something they support. Now mind you, to be totally fair, I did not pose the question to Chef Payard as to why he chose to serve Chilean Sea Bass at the Master Series Dinner. But in doing so, doc gave us this opportunity to pursue an important discussion. Again, as I get further into our Klatsch I'll be bringing up this subject again-and a larger discussion on the subject of "Farm to Table." What we can say is that bringing a critical question like this forward is a vital piece of our "Klatsch" discussion-and the type of issue that we can uncover in our reporting on the serious side of "Uncork'd."

Excellent question doc. I didn't have the opportunity to speak to Chef Payard about the source of the Sea Bass. In the years prior to Chilean Sea Bass becoming an overfished species, I was able to regularly buy it at home. I think I developed a fairly good taste memory of it-and the flavor of true Chilean Sea Bass is of course quite distinct-silky yet firm in texture and a very rich flavor-almost like a very delicate, very rich halibut. Without asking the Chef, I can't say for sure if in fact he served Chilean Sea Bass-the soy glaze was a very strong flavor and it could have masked a different species of Bass that was billed as coming from Chile. It's certainly a question worth pursuing. I'll see what I can find out. Today I'm attending a panel discussion that includes Chef Rick Moonen-an advocate of sustainable fisheries and harvesting seafood in a responsible manner. I'll try to take the opportunity to ask him some questions on the Chilean Sea Bass issue.

The formal Uncork’d events got underway on Thursday night with the “Master Series Dinners” at Caesar’s Palace. The Master Series Dinners give a small, exclusive group of people the opportunity to privately dine and meet some of the most recognizable Chefs of the day including Bobby Flay, Cat Cora and Guy Savoy. I certainly understand what an amazing opportunity it might be for someone to be a guest at a private dinner hosted by their favorite Food Network Star. But I took a turn away from the more popular celebrity chefs on the program and booked the dinner at Payard Patisserie and Bistro hosted by Chef Francois Payard and Alan Richman. My tastes for French cuisine and my ambitions for discovering how French Chefs create beautifully clean, fresh, pure flavors are what drove me to Payard. And of course, dining with Alan is always a celebration of food, wine and conversation. (As most of you know by now, Alan just won two more James Beard Journalism Awards earlier this week. He now has so many of the medals he’s lost count). Francois Payard is a third-generation Chef. He is a very humble, unassuming, joyful man-and without a look into his resume you would never know that Francois is quite simply one of the top Pastry Chefs in the world. He has worked in the kitchens of Tour d’Argent and Lucas Carton in Paris, and both Le Bernardin and Daniel in New York. Payard is a tiny little restaurant seating no more than 30 people for breakfast only. The kitchen is just as small as the dining room-but dishes with large flavors come out of this small kitchen. Alan’s introduction to dinner set the stage-“You are in for a unique dinner-one of the world’s best pastry chefs is going to cook you lamb chops.” As you will see in the following photographs, the Chefs and staff were more than up to the challenge of serving a special dinner. We were greeted with an Amuse Bouche of Foie Gras Terrine with Cranberry and Green Apple Chutney served with flutes of Veuve Cliquot Rose Champagne. The table settings included a set of Payard stationary and a box of chocolates- Mini-baguettes fresh from the Payard bakery served with properly softened, salted butter- Chef’s special offering: Foie Gras Terrine, Brioche, Onion Chutney and Red Pepper Coulis, served with more of the Veuve Cliquot Rose- This was a more generous serving of the foie gras we had been treated to as we entered the dining room. I preferred the sweet-tart Cranberry and Green Apple Chutney served with the first foie gras dish because the fruit perfectly accented the flavors of the terrine. First Course: Sea Scallop Ceviche with Grapefruit Gelee, Cucumber, Radish and Micro Greens, served with Nickel and Nickel Chardonnay, 2006 Russian River Valley, (CA), Searby Vineyard- This was a very delicate version of a ceviche. The scallop was sliced thin to soften the texture of the meat and the grapefruit, typically a strong citrus flavor, was done with finesse so as not to overpower the sweetness of the scallop. Fish Course: Chilean Sea Bass with Baby Bok Choy and Oakwood Shiitake, Soy-Honey Balsamic Glaze, served with Nickel and Nickel Chardonnay, 2005 Russian River Valley, (CA), Medina Vineyard- Meat Course: Pistachio Crusted Baby Lamb Chop with Green Asparagus and Creamy Polenta, Oregano-Lamb Jus, served with Nickel and Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Oakville- The lamb jus was poured tableside. I am not a fan of “crusting” lamb and this dish did nothing to change my mind on the technique. The crust was composed more of panko crumbs than pistachio, and the result was merely a layer of breading that interfered with the delicious, tender baby chop that lay beneath. In my mind, the actual star of this dish was quite a surprise given the fact it is early May. The tomato-zuchinni “tart”, really just layers of vegetables on top of a thin crouton, had the depth of flavor that you expect would come from vegetables out of your garden during the heat of mid-July. Pre-dessert: Hot and Cold Pina Colada- As you can see, this is certainly not the same sort of Pina Colada one sees slugged up and down the strip in plastic guzzlers. No, this is the refined version of a Pina Colada. The top layer was made of cool coconut foam, the “hot” layer underneath was a warm, syrupy base of mango and pineapple juice. Laying in the bottom of the glass was a bed of candied pineapple cooked with vanilla. Dessert: Warm Chocolate Toffee Cake with Marshmallows, Oranges, Crème Fraiche and Brown Sugar Rum Sauce served with Far Niente, Dolce 2005- Leave it to the French to trump the British over one of their classic desserts-Sticky Toffee Pudding. I got worried when I saw “Brown Sugar Rum Sauce” on the menu as I feared, (as only an American home cook would), that the brown sugar would be grainy and overly sweet. Of course Chef Payard’s sauce was silky and light and not the heavy, down-trodden sauce I spoon over my pudding. I hope you’ll agree with me that the photographic portraits of the dishes served at our Payard dinner are quite tempting. But it begs that we ask a question-is there something more to the Master Series Dinners that goes beyond having a popular Chef sign your dinner card? The Master Series Dinners allow us to look beyond what our assumptions may be about the lack of depth and soul in the kitchens of Las Vegas. Beauty can be, in the case of these restaurants (and Las Vegas), much deeper than what we see on the surface. When I asked Chef Payard what brought him to Las Vegas, he said it was because “Caesar’s Palace built him the most beautiful Pastry Shop he could ever imagine.” It is indeed a beautiful shop, and Chef Payard was given the added financial support to bring some of his New York crew with him to Las Vegas. The pastry case in Las Vegas offers the same pastries sold in New York, (albeit a much smaller selection). By the way, Las Vegas loves gelato. New Yorkers have a preference for Payard cakes. New Yorkers apparently can’t get enough Payard cake. I’m a Westerner, so I’m not aware of the New York appetite for cakes. The pastry case in Las Vegas- Whimsical sorbets and gelatos- The support of Caesar’s was not the only incentive for Payard to come to Las Vegas. The Chef told me that he is able to bring his dream of beautiful pastry to the people who visit Las Vegas-people from around the world. He will not allow his exacting standards to suffer in Las Vegas, he visits the Patisserie 2-3 times a month. Yes, a month. (The rumor that constantly swirls around town is that some of the more well-known Chefs are rarely in their kitchens. In the case of Chef Payard, this is factually not true). This brings us back to a question about Las Vegas that we discussed last year when I reported on Uncork’d-and one I’d like us to consider as we continue our culinary journey this year. Is there a soul behind the cuisine found in the fine dining rooms in Las Vegas? Do these Master Series Dinners make that evident to the public, or is it only an issue for the food press to debate? You may be surprised by what some of Chef Payard’s fellow Frenchmen have to say about the soul and dining in Las Vegas. My next entry is about the “Theater in the Kitchen.” A visit into a world that will certainly further the debate about the culinary world of Las Vegas.

Before we delve into the individual events, one important question to consider is whether or not culinary events like “Uncork’d” are both relevant and appropriate. Las Vegas is the host to any number of culinary events throughout the year. That’s not really much of a surprise given the number of exceptional restaurants, top chefs and hotels that reside in this very small, unique strip of real estate. Of course, Las Vegas isn’t the only city that hosts culinary events. We’ve all attended events focused on food and dining-in Beaver Creek, Colorado, South Beach, Florida, and New York, New York. Some will argue that such events are inappropriate given the hard economic times-and the fact that the restaurant industry in America is suffering. Trust me when I tell you that Las Vegas is a microcosm of the current state of the economy-and the evidence of the downturn is apparent throughout the restaurant community. Is this the time for the restaurant industry to retreat and ride things out, or, is this the time to seize an opportunity, (through culinary events), to promote the restaurant industry? Producing an event like “Uncork’d” takes untold hours of commitment by many people, not to mention the budgets that must be involved. Imagine trying to coordinate the travel arrangements for Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse-and many, many other luminaries that are attending “Uncork’d.” Does the effort have value? Does the public benefit, in a tangible, measureable way, by attending these events? Or, do they simply come away from four days of wining and dining at “Uncork’d,” satisfied that they had a memorable experience and the opportunity to meet a world class Chef? Is that experience, in and of itself, enough? Are these events relevant? Do they serve to further the culinary arts-or, do they merely serve as a public relations vehicle for the Chefs, restaurants, vendors and Food Writers who are involved with these events? And finally, without culinary events like “Uncork’d,” would the culinary landscape be different today or in the future?

Tonight I’ll be attending two events. First, a private dinner that is part of the “Master Series Dinners” at Caesar’s Palace. I’ve chosen the dinner at Payard Patisserie and Bistro hosted by Chef Francois Payard and Alan Richman-both luminaries in their respective fields of French Cuisine and Food Journalism. I'm interested in finding out why Chef Payard's Pastry shop is so wildly popular in Las Vegas-and if he finds his operations in Las Vegas vastly different from his signature restaurant in New York. Alan, fresh off winning more James Beard Journalism Awards earlier this week, is seen as one of the "stars" of "Uncork'd." (Yet I am quite sure Alan, ever the gracious host, hardly sees himself as a star). Following that dinner, I’ll be going to the MGM Grand for an intriguing event billed as “Theater in the Kitchen” featuring Chef Joel Robuchon and performers of Cirque du Soleil. According to the program, each diner will have the opportunity to interact, (a photo op), with Chef Robuchon and receive a signed copy of his latest cookbook, “The Complete Robuchon.” I have a surprise in store and I will either become a terrible embarrassment-or be the hit of the party. I’m bringing an older Robuchon cookbook, one probably forgotten since the time it was written over 18 years ago-“Simply French” written by Patricia Wells. From what I know, the cookbook was the first time American home cooks were introduced to Robuchon’s signature “Puree de Pommes de Terre.” I’m hoping the Chef will be pleased and happy to write his autograph on page 183.

Hello from Las Vegas. Thank you Klatsch team for the generous introduction and this unique opportunity. I’m in Las Vegas to attend the “Vegas Uncork’d” events sponsored in part by Bon Appetit Magazine. This is the third year that I’ve attended “Uncork’d.” “Uncork’d” gives both food professionals-Chefs, Food Writers, Vintners and Restaurateurs-along with the general public at large, the opportunity to immerse themselves in four days of food, dining and interacting with “celebrity” Chefs like Bobby Flay and Cat Cora. (The “celebrity” chef is of course a very large presence in Las Vegas). Some associate an event like “Uncork’d” with people coming to Las Vegas to indulge in four days of decadence, (and of course, many of them do just that). The private dinners, “Grand Tasting” and “Grand Gala” banquet are the events for those appetites. I will attend each of the above events, but I’m also quite interested in the serious side of “Uncork’d”-the events that will serve for a large part of our “Klatsch” discussion. For those of us, and I count you among this group, who are intensely interested in food, cooking and dining, “Uncork’d” gives one the opportunity to attend seminars as far ranging as cooking classes on how to make sushi, (from one of the city’s top sushi chefs), to how to make some of the world-class desserts served in Las Vegas, (from two of America’s rising-star pastry chefs). I’ll be reporting on two “Culinary Conversations,” where panels of Chefs and Food Writers will discuss the influence of French cuisine in Las Vegas, (a panel composed of names that will surprise and amaze you). I’m attending a panel discussion on how Chefs in Las Vegas create a “farm to table” cuisine in this unique desert environment. (As you know, last year I reported on the “soul” of the restaurants in Las Vegas as a part of a report on Uncork’d. The discussion of “soul” largely centered on the issue of “farm-fresh” and “seasonal,” “local” products). I’ll do my best to report the events to you in a timely manner. But rather than rush to the computer the moment after I put the fork down, we’ll take the time to let our story unfold and the discussions to follow. Please join me, and together, over the course of the next four days and beyond, we’ll “Pop the Cork,” (in spirit if not in person), together, to discuss, debate and share in “Vegas Uncork’d.”

Last Saturday was my first outdoor grilling day of the season. I did Salmon with an Orange-Teriyaki glaze served with a New Potato Salad. I tend to cook salmon to different levels of doneness depending on the cooking method I'm using and the texture of the meat that I'm looking for. When I grill salmon outdoors I actually cook it through to medium-well. I like the more firm texture of the salmon meat when I grill it over charcoal. When I cook salmon indoors using a sear-roasting method I cook it medium-rare. The glaze was a reduction of soy sauce, rice vinegar, orange juice, brown sugar, garlic, ginger and orange peel. My basic recipe for new potato salad includes baby red potatoes, green beans, Kalamata olives, tomato, capers, basil and fresh mayonnaise. For this recipe I added some fresh asparagus spears.

I was invited to attend 19th annual Epicurean Affair held at The Flamingo on April 23. The Epicurean Affair is comprised of restaurants from both Las Vegas hotels and independent restaurants. Many of the restaurants in attendance are housed in hotels that are a part of Park Place Entertainment. The Park Place family of hotels includes Caesar's Palace, Paris, Harrah's, The Flamingo, Rio, Bally's and the Imperial Palace. Public Relations is a very important piece of the Las Vegas business model, so it's critical that the large hotel/resort/casinos are constantly advertising their amenities to the public. And of course, dining and drinking are a large part of that PR effort. Thus, a tasting event like the Epicurean Affair is one of the avenues that are used to promote a restaurant to the public. In addition to the restaurant booths, there were more liquor vendors than I could count, some local food product companies, and beer and wine merchants. There were so many people crowding around the booths that I didn't have time to spot, or visit with, many recognizable chefs. I did shake hands quickly with Chefs Luciano Pellegrini of Valentino and Bradley Ogden whose namesake restaurant is in Caesar's. Chef Carla Pellegrino of Rao's at Caesar's was surrounded by doting fans the entire night. The program listed Restaurant Guy Savoy as one of the featured restaurants-but Chef Savoy and his staff were noticeably absent. Even in these lean economic times for Las Vegas, the event was well-attended. My rough estimate is that there were about 1,500 people in attendance-mostly locals and Flamingo hotel guests, (many of them “invited” guests who were given complimentary tickets). The weather was very cooperative for an outdoor tasting event set amidst the pools of the Flamingo-about 80 degrees with a light breeze. The basic idea is of these tasting events is that you go from booth to booth and eat small samples of each restaurant's offerings. As it usually goes for me, I never get enough food, nor is the food ever of the same quality one would find if one were sitting at the table in the dining room. The Imperial Palace is known more for its location and automobile collection than its restaurants-but the tiramisu from the “Embers” Steakhouse was one of the best desserts I tasted. Les Artistes Steakhouse is in the Paris hotel. The steakhouses of Las Vegas have become obsessed with prime grade beef and one becomes quite confused over the choices-Kobe #1, 2 or 3, Wagyu, Nebraska corn-fed or Montana grass-fed. I’m not sure of the origin of this beef, but it was delicious and the perfect dish for an outdoor tasting-a small skewer of tender beef, sweet crab and crisp, fresh asparagus. (Of course, traditional steak "Oscar" includes a sauce Bernaise. I didn't see a small dollop of bernaise on this "Oscar.") One of the many, too many really, cocktail booths. Sweet, rummy, sort of Mai Tai. The very deadly “skeleton of vodka” served by Red Square restaurant at Mandalay Bay. You don’t really notice it in this photo, but a nice young lady poured vodka in the top of the skeleton and the deadly spirits traveled through the icy skull into a cup. Often over-looked for the more popular restaurants on the Strip, Envy Steakhouse is located in the Renaissance Hotel. Popularity and location on the Strip don’t necessarily correlate to the food being better. Envy Steakhouse is more than worthy. (The Strawberry Infusion was even better with a shot of vodka from the aforementioned “skeleton.”) More prime-grade beef. I couldn’t taste much garlic in the garlic-marinated prawn, but it was cooked to perfection, as was the beef. Chef Luciano Pellegrini, Chef of Valentino at the MGM Grand, wondering where all these ravenous people came from. From Emeril’s in the MGM Grand. If it’s kept properly chilled on ice, chilled seafood and cold fruits are a perfect dish for a tasting event-the Chef can prep the seafood and fruits ahead of time and then dress the dish on-site. The taster has the benefit of a small bite that can easily be handled with drink in hand. Jasmine at Bellagio. Behind-the-booth prep of watermelon with Dungeness crab. My personal favorite dish and cocktail came from Jasmine restaurant at Bellagio- little squares of meltingly tender Kobe beef short ribs glazed in what I would describe as a teriyaki sauce. It was the perfect dish given the venue-the highest-quality beef slowly-braised in the restaurant for hours and a sauce prepared and reduced at the restaurant. A simple dish that didn't need fussy on-site cooking and better yet, anything served on skewers that can be eaten with the fingers is a good dish for a tasting event. Behind the scenes saucing and prep of the beef dish. Most of the cocktails were overly sweet, and overly boozed. But the standout cocktail of the evening also came from Jasmine at Bellagio-a smooth and refreshing drink with a base of lychee vodka. Three Chefs from McCormack and Schmick’s worked all night to shuck these beautiful fresh oysters-Kumamoto from the Pacific and Bluepoints from the East coast. Succulent pork belly and crisp cucumber in steamed bun from Pearl restaurant at the MGM- Steakhouse 46, (I didn’t figure out the number association to the name), at The Flamingo- Grilling lamb chops, (Which I mistakenly missed on my first pass by this booth. When I came back they were all gone). Steak “sliders.” The sliders were displayed en-masse at numerous booths and in every imaginable guise a Chef could concoct-both sweet and savory. Slides have become all the rage at parties and on restaurant menus. They’re o.k., but don’t you end up eating three or four when what you really want is just one big burger? From the vodka shots flowing from the mouth of a skeleton carved in ice, the requisite Las Vegas "models" outfitted in tight pants serving alcohol-laced "sweet-tea" and "Chicken and Waffles" at the Toby Keith "I Love This Bar and Grill" booth, the delicious little hazelnut gelato truffles encased in chocolate served by Fiamma at the MGM, the freshly-shucked Oysters served by McCormack and Schmick's, the food was generous and delicious. While the Epicurean Affair won’t necessarily cure Las Vegas of its economic flu, it was an appropriate showcase to advertise some of the city’s great restaurants. Tickets for the Epicurean Affair were priced at $100. Considering that $100 barely buys an appetizer and entrée at some of the high-end dining rooms in Las Vegas, the evening was certainly worth it-an exceptional value given the setting, the always interesting Las Vegas crowd and the variety of food and drink.

I'm very naive when it comes to tofu. Do you know how the protein content of tofu compares to pork or chicken?

I don't care where they tape it as long as they get some great chefs this time around!!! ← If Norm was correct in his column, and he's usually right on with things, the filming is underway in Las Vegas. I'll be there next week and I'll see what I can find out. While I'd like to think that the city doesn't matter, I'm sure the producers will find some way to use Las Vegas to its full, dramatic effect. Of course, that's assuming on my part that the show will be shot in Las Vegas. And we can all wait with great anticipation for the return of a resident chef in Las Vegas-the man some loved to hate-Marcel. I'm wondering if he'll appear as a judge or in his recurring role as a Sous Chef.

But I wonder if they soaked up a lot more oil. That's been the reason for older ones, I think. And the 'tooth' would have to be different. Not better or worse, but different. ← I don't know if they soaked up more oil. Probably. And you're right that the 'tooth' was different. Much more tender. They were really good. The main thing, though, was that they were very easy to work with. Upthread somebody mentioned that they had a hard time rolling or folding fresh tortillas without them breaking. That didn't happen at all. ← In my original cook-off posts I did mention that I had difficulty rolling fresh tortillas-due in part to my ignorance of how to actually prepare tortillas. It wasn't until I prepared for this enchiladas cook-off that I realized my mistake. In the past I rolled the tortillas "dry" and then sauced them. I had no clue the tortillas should be softened first. So while it's messy and takes some last minute theatrics in the kitchen, now I dip in warm oil, dip in sauce, fill, roll and sauce again-all in just a few minutes. I've used both fresh tortillas and tortillas that I had in the freezer for months. The freshness of the tortillas didn't seem to matter as much as the dipping method I used. And while I'm now a fan of the above method, I still get that craving for a more "Americanized" version of an enchiladas-after the dip and roll, I'll sprinkle on some shredded cheese out of a plastic bag and run the enchiladas under the broiler. I guess old tastes die hard.

Yes, you're right. Thanks for clarifying.

On Sunday, Norm Clarke wrote in his column for the Review-Journal that filming for Top Chef Season 6 was starting this week in Las Vegas.

Looking over the current tasting menu it doesn't appear that there is any difference in what used to run $250 and now runs $185. There are still plenty of luxe ingredients like foie gras, caviar and prime-grade beef. The portions were never large at Alex. They couldn't really save much in terms of cost if they cut out things like an Amuse or Petit Fours, so I really think it's just a symptom of lowering prices and cutting back on hours to reduce some costs. There doesn't appear to be any cutbacks on the large ala carte menu either. They are currently offering 8 appetizers, 8 entrees and 5 desserts. There are plenty of high-quality ingredients on the ala carte menu-foie gras, sweetbreads, langoustines, john dory, veal loin and kurobata pork among them. The cost of the ala carte menu didn't seem to be much lower than what I remember from last year. Appetizers run $15 and up, entrees begin at about $40 and desserts $15 on average. This is the current tasting menu at Alex: Kaimin Kanpachi Sashimi Yuzu-Lemon Panna Cotta, Golden Osetra Caviar, Compressed Pear, Jalapeno and Manni Extra Virgin Olive Oil Rice Crusted Sea Scallop Parsnip Veloute, Roasted Chicken Jus, Quince, Golden Raisins and Puffed Rice Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras Pickled Turnips, Maui Onion Compote, Salad of Steamed and Confit Matsutake Mushrooms Crispy Rouget de Roche Eggplant Puree, Orange-Burgundy Sauce, Roasted Bell Pepper Marinade, Coriander and Piment d'espelette Japanese Wagyu Beef Loin Parmesan Bone Marrow Custard, Black Mission Figs, Arugula and Red Wine Syrup Coconut Tapioca with Passion Fruit Glaze and Tropical Fruits Warm Apple Saute with Maple-Black Walnut Cake and Sour Cream Parfait

This just went on my list to try! ← Thanks. I hope you'll like it. You get the tender asparagus, crisp, salty, prosciutto and then the cool, sweet, minty melon. It's wonderful. I should also add I always peel the stalk of the asparagus before I cook it. I find the peel a bit stringy if it's left on.

Last week when I was in Las Vegas I took a walk over to the Wynn and Encore to check out the restaurant menus. I was especially interested in seeing if the terrible economy of Las Vegas has had an impact in lowering restaurant prices. As you'll read below, the answer is yes, the economy is obviously impacting restaurant prices and some of the high-end places have taken notice. All of the restaurants at Wynn and Encore are currently offering special "Taste of Wynn" menus. Each menu is at least three courses and many menus offer a selection of dishes for each course. They are incredibly good deals. The only draw-back I saw was that the specials are only offered from 530p-700p, a relatively early hour for dining in Las Vegas. The current special menu at Wing Lei is priced at $69 per person. Note that the Peking Duck ordered off the regular menu is priced at $44.00. "Chef Richar'ds Imperical Peking Duck Tasting." Table Carved Peking Duck, Handmade Pancakes, Cucumber, Scallion, Hoisin Peking Duck Salad Mesclun, Almonds, Orange Truffle Vinaigrette Wild Duck Soup Asian Vegetables Wok-Fried Duck Asparagus, Garlic Black Bean Sauce Pan-Seared Duck Noodles Chinese Broccoli, Crispy Noodles Chef's Dessert Selection The "Taste of Wynn" menu at Alex is priced at $95 and offers the following: Choice of- Maine Sea Scallops White and Green Asparagus, Organic Polenta and Sweet Sausage or Black Truffle Risotto Crispy Chicken, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Chicken Jus Choice of- Roasted Tenderloin of Beef Gratin Yukon Potatoes, Sweet Onions, Bordelaise Sauce or Hawaiian Onaga Taro Puree, Young Coconut, Nori-Radish Salad and Carrot-Ginger Sauce Choice of- Vanilla Citrus Parfait Toasted Marshmallow Cream, Campari Sorbet or Crunchy Chocolate Caramel Bombe I noticed that Alex is now only open four days a week, Wednesday thru Saturday. In the past they were open at least six days a week. The full tasting menu at Alex was priced at $185 last week, with wines $235. A year ago the tasting menu was in the $250 range. I checked with a concierge and he "assured" me that if you are dining in a group, the restaurant is more than happy to accomodate differing menu selections at your table. In other words, if someone wanted to order ala carte, one ordered the "Taste of Wynn" menu and a third diner ordered the full-blown tasting menu, your party would be accomodated. (I think that would be a difficult task for the servers and the kitchen to make sure the flow of dishes was spot on, but I suppose it could work). A different sign of the poor economy in Las Vegas-the valet I visited with. Last year he was a stockbroker-this year he's parking cars.

This is my recipe for an asparagus appetizer, "Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus with Honeydew Sorbet." Honeydew Sorbet 2 cups chopped honeydew melon 1 cup simple syrup 1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves 1 tbsp. fresh squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup Midori melon liquer (substitute with Vodka) Mint leaves for garnish Simple Syrup 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup water 1 cup chopped fresh mint leaves Make the simple syrup first. Bring water and sugar to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add mint leaves and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook syrup for 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and strain syrup into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or until ready to use. Place melon, syrup, mint leaves and lemon juice in a blender. Puree until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain puree into a bowl. Add Midori liquer, cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours. Pour melon puree into ice cream machine and process according to manufacturer's instructions, about 20 minutes. Keep sorbet frozen in freezer until service. Asparagus 8 spears of asparagus, peeled 4 slices prosciutto, cut in half 1 tbsp. olive oil Heat 1 quart of water to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Add asparagus and blanch until just tender, about 3 minutes. Remove asparagus and drain on paper towels. Let asparagus cool to room temperature. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Brush skillet with a little olive oil. Add prosciutto slices and saute until just crisp, about 30 seconds. Turn prosciutto over and sauté another 30 seconds. Remove prosciutto from skillet and blot off fat with a paper towel. To serve, wrap each asparagus spear with a slice of prosciutto. Place a scoop of melon sorbet in a large martini glass or in a large soup bowl. Add two spears of asparagus on either side of sorbet. Garnish sorbet with a mint sprig.

I just returned from a quick trip to Las Vegas and I didn't hear anything about Savoy closing. But I would add that the economic downturn has and continues to hit all of the restaurants very hard. I don't think we're anywhere near the end of the cycle and we'll probably be hearing news of more restaurant closings in Las Vegas in the future. I'll be reporting on some incredible menu pricing specials that I found at the Wynn and Encore while I was in town.

What a delicious photo-I'm hoping you do post more often. I must admit, I've never tried tilapia because I assumed it didn't have any flavor. But your dish has changed my mind. I'm going to have to try this one.

Thank you for adding some more insight into the issue of the unique financial arrangements between the restaurants, the "name" Chefs, the hotels and casinos of Las Vegas. Coming from someone with first-hand experience in reviewing the balance sheets, your experience gives us more details into these relationships. Vive le profit, (and creating the right image), are indeed an indelible part of Las Vegas.