David Ross

I didn’t do much research on the scientific formulas for making a dough for grilled pizza. (I am sure there are some experts among us who are knowledgeable about the intricacies of yeast doughs that are best-suited to cooking on an outdoor grill). I figured that I would start with a basic pizza dough and use the fundamental test of taste. Hopefully that would lead me to the answer of whether or not my pizza crust recipe would work on the grill. My standard pizza dough recipe consists of- 1 cup warm water 1 package active dry yeast 2 tsp. Honey 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp. Salt 2 tbsp. olive oil I mix and knead the dough using a KitchenAid Mixer, then turn the dough into an oiled bowl and let it rise for about three hours- The dough at the first rise, ready to be pulled and stretched for the pizza- While the dough was rising I started making the ingredients that would top the grilled pizza. If I was venturing into the world of grilling pizza, I didn’t want to do a standard pepperoni and green pepper topping. I was thinking more along the lines of something exotic, aromatic, spicy, and full of flavor-maybe the type of grilled meat one associates with open-air markets in North Africa or the Middle East? I found inspiration in the idea of spicy meat with “grilled” bread. I settled on “Grilled Pizza with Lamb Merguez Sausage, Grilled Onions, Olives and Cucumber Raita.” Sounded good, now I just had to pull-off my lofty concept.

I’m a rookie when it comes to grilling pizza. I've seen Bobby Flay grill pizza on some Food Network show, but I never thought to try it myself. Most of the pizza I make at home follows a standard format using a pre-made, store-bought crust topped with pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms, canned, sliced, black olives and grated cheese out of a bag. The only adventurous technique in my repertoire is to bake the pie on a pizza stone and then turn-up the broiler for a few minutes to char the top and melt the cheese. It comes out sort of looking like it came from a pizzeria and it tastes pretty good. Would a grilled pizza add a flavor and texture element that I was missing with my standard oven-baked pizza? The heart and soul of any pizza begins with the crust. Because pizza crust is such a very personal matter, far be it from me to dictate the definitive crust recipe for a grilled pizza. I’ll begin by relating a personal story about what I like in a pizza crust and then follow with my adventures in crafting the dough that would become the crust for my grilled pizza. When I set-out on this quest to grill pizza I was transported back to the taste memories of the wonderful crust of “Pietro’s Gold Coast Pizza,” from Salem, Oregon. I first tasted Pietro’s pizza in the early 1960’s-and I haven’t forgotten the taste of that crust-not doughy or thick, it was a “thin” style crust brushed with oil and a thin film of tomato sauce. Crispy on the bottom and blistered with soft bubbles of dough on top, the Pietro’s crust is to this day the standard by which I judge all other pizza crusts. No other crust comes close. Pietro’s operates three “Gold Coast” pizza parlors in Oregon today and they still make the dough for their crust daily. This was the crust I had to have for making a grilled pizza. Last week I contacted the President of Pietro’s via an e-mail to the main parlor in Salem. I began the email by relating a story about eating a delicious “Barmaid’s Special” (Candadian Bacon, Ground Beef, Pepperoni, half with Anchovies) in 1965. I thought the personal approach would be a soft-opener for the real reason behind my e-mail-I wanted the recipe for Pietro’s crust. I got a very nice response, basically a thank you for my family’s lengthy history as a customer of Pietro’s. I didn’t get the recipe for the crust. I had to fall-back on the standard recipe I use on the rare occasions I make dough and craft pizza crust by hand. But would my standard recipe create a crust that would withstand the intense heat of an open flame in the barbecue grill?

Welcome to our latest eGullet Cook-off, number 48, Grilled Pizza. You can find the complete Cook-Off Index here. Our last cook-off took us into the world of Asian Tofu dishes. Tofu, one of the world’s oldest and most versatile vegetable proteins-an inexpensive ingredient that yields exotic and flavorful dishes. When Summer weather beckons, we move the kitchen outdoors and onto the grill, the smoker, the barbecue or the hibachi. And while we typically associate outdoor grilling with meats, fish and vegetables, there is another favorite food that is delicious when grilled on the barbecue-pizza! Of course, pizza is the subject of great debate. In fact, two recent topics on pizza have garnered quite a lot of discussion in the eGullet forums-“The best pizza in New York,circa 1999” here and “Alan Richman’s Top 25 Pizzas,” here. When you think about it, grilling a pizza over an open fire on your barbecue grill makes perfect sense-traditional pizza ovens are fired with wood or white-hot coals. Grilling a pizza results in a crispy-crust with a smoky flavor and oozing cheese. And a grilled pizza doesn’t have to be savory-fruits and sweet pizzas are wonderful on the grill-caramelized fruit sugars mingling with sweet cheese and honey are just one of the endless possibilities. Please join us as we explore the art of grilling pizza and the creation of some unique dishes for your summer barbecue parties.

What a wonderful story. While the food and service no longer live-up to your first taste experience of the grilled pizza margherita--your memories of that night will last forever. It's just hard holding onto the memory of a delicious flavor from the past while realizing that you'll never experience that same taste again.

As a resident of the State of Washington, I'm lucky to be close enough to Alaska to realize a steady supply of beautiful Copper River Salmon during the very short season. You can read more about the 2009 Copper River Salmon run here. Last Saturday I barbecued some Copper River Sockeye. I started by rubbing the salmon with a mixture of McCormack’s “Grill Mates Pork Rub,” brown sugar and cayenne. I like the “Pork Rub” because it has a heavy dose of smoked paprika in the mix. In the background of this photo you see a spray bottle filled with apple juice. I’ll use the apple juice to spritz the salmon while it’s on the barbecue. I let the salmon marinate in the rub, wrapped and refrigerated, for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, the rub has melted into the salmon. The fire is charcoal with hickory. I put some applewood chips on the fire for smoke and spritzed the salmon with apple juice during cooking. The finished salmon after about 30 minutes of roasting/smoking. (Those white pockets of fat that you see on top of the salmon are a sign of how juicy and oily it would be on the dinner plate). The final dish, Wild Copper River Sockeye.

Last Friday I made a trip to my local seafood shop, Williams Seafood, in search of fresh Copper River Salmon. As I walked into the shop, Mike the Fish Guy and crew were working on fresh, whole, Copper River Sockeye’s. Mike’s brings in whole wild fish at least three times a week, and he butchers each fish to each customers specifications. You can read more about my adventures with Mike the Fish Guy here. The Sockeye doesn’t get as much attention as the King or the Silver, but some of us up here in the Northwest actually prefer the Sockeye because the flesh is more oily, (and thus more juicy and flavorful), than other species of Salmon. Last week Mike was selling Wild Copper River Sockeye for the reasonable price of $12.95 a pound. I’ve seen Copper River Sockeye for sale online at $23.95 a pound, basically double what Mike was selling it for. (Apparently most of the stock of Copper River King is already sold-out, so if you haven’t seen it in a local market, you may be out of luck). The photo doesn’t do justice to the true color of the Copper River Sockeye, which is a deep reddish-orange hue. The strips of fat along the belly of the salmon are an indication that this is a well-fed fish.

I actually have a couple of melon ballers in varying sizes-but I don't use them on melons. I use my melon ballers to make potato balls. Just boil a Russet potato until tender. Let the potato cool, then peel off the skin. Cut-out potato balls using the melon baller. Then fry the little potato balls in butter. Delicious in the fall or winter with roasted meats.

The issue of sourcing food products is one of great debate of course, but I sense the debate is shifting somewhat-and that was a large part of the "Farm to Table" panel discussion at "Uncork'd." There will always be those advocates of a strict policy of only serving seasonal products that are locally grown and harvested within a short distance of the restaurant where those products will be served. Those restrictions can limit the creativity of the Chef and the quality of the diners experience. However, I sense there are more Chefs who are loosening their personal restrictions on this issue. If you can source wild salmon from the Copper River in Alaska and have it shipped to the desert of Las Vegas within 1 day of it being caught, then you should put it on the menu. The shipping distance involved and the harsh summer climate in Las Vegas presents its own set of unique challenges. But as Chef Savoy said at the Culinary Conversations panel discussion about French cuisine, "there is always FedEx." I think we are realizing that the concept of locally-sourced, seasonal products can apply to a Chef and a restaurant thousands of miles from where the products are grown. The ultimate test of course is found in the flavors of the dish. Can that Copper River Salmon taste as good in Las Vegas as it would in Alaska? Maybe not. Wild Salmon cooked over an open fire of alderwood on the banks of a scenic river is an experience unto itself. But the dining experience and setting of Las Vegas is also unique. High-quality products of the nature we are discussing, in the hands of a talented Chef, can create their own memorable taste experiences in Las Vegas.

Steven, you are of course not alone. I think it's a combination of having many things going on in our lives and not taking the time, or focusing, on what we are doing in the kitchen. Taking those few more moments obviously makes all the difference in the world. As some of you know, I have, at times, photos of some of my dishes that many of you have graciously recognized as being "beautiful" and "delicious." Those are, of course, only the dishes I have chosen to portray to you. I have far, far more failures than I do successes in my home kitchen. I find that if I focus on some basics, then I can cook dishes that are as delicious and visually attractive as what I am often served at a restaurant, (and sometimes my food is much better). I have to start with the best, freshest, ingredients then cook them perfectly. If I start with a bad product, even if I cook it perfectly, the end result won't be up to snuff. Last week I saw a NY Strip in the meat case at the supermarket for $4.99 a pound. I falsely assumed that beef prices must have fallen due to the bad economy. I wasn't focused. All I had to do was take 3 more seconds to read the label that clearly said "Select Grade." Select grade meats have an appropriate use, but I don't think anything less than Choice grade is appropriate when you are grilling a steak. The steak was perfectly cooked, it just lacked flavor and texture. It's not always a case of not buying a good quality product. Sometimes, in my rush to get dinner on the table, I mess up a good product. Last night I had some pre-made meatloaf in the freezer. A beautiful, simple, meatloaf of hamburger mixed with Lipton Onion Soup Mix. (It's Mother's basic meatloaf and it's delicious). I can't tell you why, but I messed it up by adding terrible dried bread crumbs out of a can and an egg. That stuff was already in the meatloaf, so why did I feel compelled to add it again? The meatloaf had accumulated ice particles while it was frozen, so when it thawed out it was watery-and I added bread crumbs which acted to make the thing one big wet sponge. I wasn't focused. The baked meatloaf was so awful-like eating a wet sponge-and lacking in flavor I settled for a cup of yogurt. A typical night might have me stirring risotto on the stovetop, clothes in the dryer, sprinklers on the lawn, prawns to prep for the risotto, and the tug of having five eGullet topics up on the computer at the same time. If I don't watch over the toaster--the brioche will burn.

The service at Lotus of Siam is every bit as good as the food--so I'd suggest you let the staff know that you'd like to try a variety of dishes that will give you a range of tastes and textures. That way you won't be intimidated by the menu. They will most likely bring out a cold salad, a hot soup, a fried dish, a stew, a noodle dish, and a seafood dish. To give you an idea of the dishes they serve at Lotus of Siam, (and some other delicious meals at reasonably-priced Asian restaurants in Las Vegas), you can go to this report.

It will be interesting to see if Alan's list includes a variety of styles of pies. In the past he's said that he wasn't a fan of the Neapolitan style.

You and I travel in slightly different eG forums so I had no idea that you would have a conservative stance toward pastries. That word "trendy" seems a useless word to me unless we choose to never seek and experience evolution and betterment. While I don't seek the next "trendy" ingredient, I am constantly seeking ingredients and ingredient combinations that can take pastries to antother level for me. A very small example is Paul Raphael's Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe. Did he brown his butter and replace standard brown sugar with muscovado because it was trendy? I assume he did so to improve on the classic. Or when I did my celery dessert series last year it was not for the sake of trend but rather experimentation (with some hits and some misses). I know that my feelings of trendy technology sound similar to yours on pastry. I cringe when my spouse "has to have" the latest gizmo..."no you don't really have to have it," I respond. But one person's trendy is another person's improvement (hence my active use of FaceBook after months of refusal...same goes for the cell phone which I still despise). And so slowly and painfully I'm learning to remove that judgment from my paradigm because I only find it limiting. If I hadn't taken that step I never would have had as many wonderful meals and desserts as I have. And so for these reasons I recommend "trendy" be thrown out and you should go get your tonka bean espuma with radicchio gelato. ← Your analogy of trendy technology to my associations with "trendy" pastry are spot-on. In fact, up until a year ago, I didn't even own a cell phone-and I still don't know how to use it. As I mentioned in my review of the pastry class at Uncork'd, I finally started to realize that what I had previously considered "trendy" was, in fact, largely an issue of personal restrictions I placed on the creativity of a pastry chef. So I'm slowly moving forward in my thinking-and realizing that adding sweet paprika to a chocolate ganache can add a depth of flavor and texture that I previously would have disregarded. It will take me a bit of time to fully shed my negative attitudes for what I consider to be trendy in food-but I'll get there. Tonka Bean Espuma, sounds delicious and intriguing. Radicchio Gelato, give me some more time to think about that one.

Unfortunately, the word came in the form of an email yesterday-"Mr. Ross, we have decided that we are not interested in pursuing cooking segements for our Saturday morning news program. However, we will keep your CD's on file in case we have an interest in the future." And so the search for a new home for cooking on local television continues.

David, I found your link before, but I can't seem to find it again! I keep looking for the tv set, but can't seem to find it. (whine) Am I nuts? ← I'm glad you've enjoyed our "Klatsch." In reference to a link portraying Julia's early appearances on WGBH-Boston, (PBS), sorry, but I didn't include a link in our discussion. But I'm sure that there are plenty of clips out there.

Dave that is an excellent question. No, the Klatsch team did not sponsor or pay for any of the events I attended. I paid my own way for the airfare, hotel and all of the events I attended. (And by the way, many members of the "press" were given complimentary access to the events). I was given a complimentary ticket to the private screening of "Julie and Julia," and from what I know, it was an invitation only event and tickets were not sold in conjunction with Uncork'd. I have attended "Uncork'd" for three years now, and while it is expensive, it is personally worth the expense. This year I had the great opportunity to turn my report on "Uncork'd" into a Klatsch discussion and bring it to our Members.

On Sunday afternoon, I got a call that I had been invited to a private screening of the movie “Julie and Julia” at the theater complex at the Palms hotel. I was only loosely familiar with this upcoming movie about Julia Child. I had heard that Meryl Streep would be playing Julia-but other than that I had no idea what the story was based upon. Given the fact that I had been invited to a private viewing of a film that centered on a beloved American who changed the way we cook-and I was ending a week of culinary events in Las Vegas-it seemed only fitting to attend the screening of the movie. When you attend a private movie screening in conjunction with the “Uncork’d” events in Las Vegas, you are not served boxes of popcorn drowning in fake butter. As we entered the theatre we were given bags of black truffle popcorn and cotton candy courtesy of Chef Kerry Simon of Simon Kitchen and Bar at the Hard Rock Hotel. Chef Hubert Keller, proprietor of Fleur de Lys restaurant and The Burger Bar at Mandalay Bay Hotel, provided bags of scrumptious caramel corn. “Julie and Julia” is a film that is based on two stories, one from the past, one from the present. The first story is based upon the biography of Julia Child, “My Life in France,” (Alfred A. Knopf, 2006), written by Paul Child’s grand-nephew, Alex Prud’homme. It is a beautiful story that is centered Julia and Paul’s life in post-war France and her tireless efforts to write and publish “Mastering The Art of French Cooking,” (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961). The second story, and the story that links Julia’s past to the present, is based on the blog written in 2002 by Julie Powell, a government worker based in New York who attempted to cook every single recipe in “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” in exactly one year. The blog immediately became wildly popular and caught the eye of the national media. In 2005, the blog was turned into the book, “Julie and Julia, My Year of Cooking Dangerously,” (Little, Brown Company, 2005). It quickly became a best-seller and thus, the idea of producing a major motion picture about the story was created. Streep plays Julia Child to the hilt-the wild laugh, the unmistakable voice tone and inflection, the physical stature of Julia-a grandiose performance in terms of Streep’s ability to portray the unique character of Julia rather than a deep, dramatic performance. Stanley Tucci plays Julia’s dear, loving, supportive husband Paul, and Julie Powell is played by Amy Adams. “Julie and Julia” is what I would describe as a light, enjoyable movie about Julia’s early struggles to find her passion-a passion that is found in food and cooking and bringing the wonders of French cuisine to America. The film relates Julia’s experiences of over 50 years ago to the experiences of Julie Powell-a woman searching for a passion who found her mission in re-creating the recipes from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” The film doesn’t dig very deep into Julia’s life in television-a life that came after her book was published and a life of cooking on TV that made one of the single-greatest impacts on how Americans cook today. As we walked out of the theater, each guest was given a complimentary copy of “Julie and Julia” and “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” Julia Child’s masterpiece cookbook is still being reprinted 48 years after it was first published. “Julie and Julia” will open in theaters nationwide on August 7, 2009. No doubt the movie will inspire many more home cooks like “Julie Powell” to go out and buy a copy of Ms. Child’s ground-breaking cookbook. As I close the formal reports of “Klatsch: Popping the Cork in Las Vegas,” I have come to the realization that there is a link between all of these events: the private dinner at Payard, the performances of Cirque du Soleil and Robuchon, the intense discussions about the influence of master French Chefs and the art of Pastry, the Grand Tasting, the issue of sustainable “Farm to Table” cuisine, the Grand Gala dinner, and finally, this movie about a grand woman, “Julie and Julia.” Throughout our “Klatsch” we have posed some important questions- “Does a young Chef today have to have a firm foundation in the traditions of French cuisine-the technical abilities, the respect of French tradition, the respect for ingredients and pure flavors-in order to be successful at the highest level?” Does the public benefit, in a tangible, measureable way, by attending these events? Or, do they simply come away from four days of wining and dining at “Uncork’d,” satisfied that they had a memorable experience and the opportunity to meet a world class Chef? Is that experience, in and of itself, enough? (to further the Culinary Arts). Are these events relevant? Do they serve to further the culinary arts-or, do they merely serve as a public relations vehicle for the Chefs, restaurants, vendors and Food Writers who are involved with these events? And finally, without culinary events like “Uncork’d,” would the culinary landscape be different today or in the future? I encourage everyone to continue to re-visit our “Klatsch” and to share your thoughts and arguments in support, or opposition, to the questions we’ve asked, and to answer whether or not you found the link that I discovered at “Uncork’d.”

Our “Klatsh: Popping the Cork in Las Vegas” does not end with the Grand Gala Dinner. On Sunday I attended a very interesting private event. I was given the opportunity to re-visit the story of an Amerian icon and how her story and legacy--and the issues raised at "Uncork'd--can have a positive influence on the way we cook and the way we eat.

The last formal event I attended at “Uncork’d” was the Saturday evening “Gala Dinner.” The dinner was presented by Chefs from the fine dining restaurants at Bellagio, including: Chef Todd English and Chef Isaac Carter, Olives Restaurant Chef Akira Back, Yellowtail Sushi Restaurant and Bar Chef Michael Mina and Chef Anthony Amoroso, Michael Mina Restaurant Chef Julian Serrano, Picasso Restaurant Chef Robert Moore, Jean-Georges Prime Restaurant Chef Jean-Phillipe Maury, JP Patisserie, Bellagio The wine pairings were sponsored by Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada, including “wines from Icon Estates and Champagne by Remy Cointreau USA.” The festivities were hosted by Barbara Fairchild, Editor-In-Chief of Bon Appetit and Mr. Alan Richman, who is, among his other associations and talents, a special correspondent for Bon Appetit. Presenting a “Grand Gala” dinner to an audience filled with professionals of the culinary world is a daunting task to say the least. The mere thought that Ducasse and Robuchon would be dining at the front table, (they were seated next to one another), and tasting your food is enough to make any Chef nervous. I’ve attended a number of these events, and every time I walk into the ballroom I have an expectation that I’m going to be served a memorable meal. When a customer dines at one of these Chefs restaurants, they should always expect an exceptional meal-but those expectations rise for an event intended to celebrate the culinary arts-an expectation that the food will be at the highest level possible. -What’s it like to watch some of the top Chef’s in America select products and craft a five-course dinner for hundreds? I had prepared this question based on the billing on the program that promised-a “Stroll through the Bellagio Marketplace alongside eight fabulous chefs while they handpick some of the most delectable products and create an exclusive and intimate five course dinner.” In the days building up to the Grand Gala, I was corresponding with some other attendees of “Uncork’d” and everyone asked me the same question-“where, or what, is the “Bellagio Marketplace?” I assumed that the producer’s of the Grand Gala would be transforming a meeting room into a marketplace that mirrored a farmer’s market, perhaps with an Italian theme to echo the style and theme of the Bellagio hotel. And I imagined that we would actually “follow” the Chefs as they hand-picked the ingredients for each dish. Unfortunately, my assumptions of the format of the opening act of the Grand Gala fell short of what I found. We entered into the “Bellagio Marketplace” through a long corridor where we were greeted by a group of lovely Las Vegas showgirls and strolled onto a patio over-looking the pools and gardens. The architecture and settings of the Bellagio hotel are remarkable and ornate, and the patio setting for champagne and hors d’oeuvres was lovely on a warm evening in Las Vegas. Yet I quickly realized that there wasn’t really going to be an opportunity to stroll through a market with the Chefs. We were offered wine and hors d’oeuvres prepared by Todd English of Olives. Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvee Brut” Champagne Cloudline Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2007 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2008 Lobster Salad with Blueberry French Toast Melon and Prosciutto Frogs Leg Lollipops Artichoke and Goat Cheese Drumsticks I’m sorry to admit I didn’t indulge in the hors d’oeuvres as I wanted to save my appetite for the grand 5-course feast to come. There were stations throughout the area where guests had the opportunity to see some of the products that would be served at dinner and meet some of the Chefs. (It wasn’t really what I would call a “marketplace.”) At the top of the photo you see the fresh Japanese Snapper that would be served as the fish course, (sadly, when I asked, the Chef told me we wouldn’t be having a taste of the fresh geoduck clam at the bottom of the photo)- This purveyor supplied the pork belly that would be served as one of the meat courses- The grade A5 Wagyu beef that would be served as the second meat course- A certificate of authenticity for the Wagyu beef, A5 grade, (the highest grade of Wagyu)- As is sometimes the case when we dine at a restaurant-what we are promised on the menu is often not what is presented to us at the table. Such was the case regarding the introduction to the Grand Gala dinner. It can be as subtle as forgetting to garnish the gnocchi with the promised fried basil leaves, or as egregious as leaving the lemon buerre blanc off the Dover sole. It can be a lovely display of ingredients-yet not meet the expectation of the promised opportunity to walk with a Chef through a marketplace. It may be an oversight and unintentional-but failed expectations lower one’s experience to a level less than desirable level. Details-following through on what is promised and exceeding the guests’ expectations is just as important as presenting a beautifully fresh tian of perfectly prepared Spring vegetables. -Should, or can, a menu created by a group of Chef’s for a banquet, have a cohesive theme? Or, are gala banquet menus merely a showcase for each Chef’s to demonstrate examples of their cuisine? The second question I pose may or may not be appropriate in your opinion. I do think the individuality of each Chef at these events should be a showcase of their talent-and that talent should come shining through. Additionally, in the context of the Grand Gala dinner, I think that individual stars should stand to the side of the stage so to speak and that the menu should have cohesion through the flavors of the individual ingredients in each dish. The dishes should be served in a progression that links each to the next through those flavors. The beautiful table settings and crystal glassware- Our co-host, Mr. Richman, introducing Chef Akira Back, Yellowtail Sushi Restaurant and Bar- Chef Back recently became popular for his appearance on “Iron Chef America” where he cooked against Chef Bobby Flay in “battle Spinach.” (He lost). But his appearance on Food Network is but a small piece of Chef Back’s impressive resume and dedication to serving fresh fish. After a night of service in the kitchen at Yellowtail Sushi Restaurant, Chef Back arose at 4 a.m. on Saturday morning to drive with his assistant Chef to the Los Angeles airport, arriving at precisely the time an airplane landed from Japan carrying the Japanese Snapper that would be served in our first course. Chef Back explained to the guests that true Japanese Snapper is very expensive and difficult for him to procure. The fish is wild and caught on single lines off the coast of Japan. “Japanese Snapper Carpaccio, Micro Shiso, Tosazu” served with “Loimer Riesling, Austria, 2006”- One merit of a great Chef is having the ability to recognize restraint-restraint in not over-powering the flavor of a delicate fish like Japanese Snapper, and then simply dressing it with a subtle “Tosazu” sauce-a blend of soy, rice vinegar and dried bonito flakes. The next course was without a doubt the star of this grand evening-a dish one would expect from Chef Julian Serrano of Picasso restaurant. “Roasted Scallop, Green Asparagus, Hollandaise Mousseline, Confit of Leeks” served with “Torres Nerola, Cataluyna, 2005”- Another merit of an exceptional Chef is the talent to leave the guest in a state of wonder-wonder at how such pure, deep flavors can be drawn from what appears to be a simple ingredient like a scallop and a spear of asparagus. As we know, not all scallops are alike. Chef Serrano had selected the finest live, dayboat scallops and simply seared and roasted the beauties in butter. Typically we serve Spring asparagus with a heavy dose of traditional sauce “Hollandaise.” Chef Serrano’s delicate craftsmanship was displayed by elevating the Hollandaise into a light “Mousseline” by simply adding whipped cream to the traditional sauce and spooning a quenelle of the delicate mousseline to the side of the scallop. In a city that promotes having more “Master Sommelier’s” than New York, one would assume that the wines served at a culinary event in Las Vegas would be perfectly matched to the food. Now I’m far from an expert on pairing wines to food-I hold my own in general discussions at the table-“the white wines served with the seafood courses seemed a bit bitter and didn’t accent the sweet flavors of the fish,” is about as far as I can go to support my critique of the wines served with the first two dishes. I did speak to two friends who were at the dinner, both Food Writers and both serious students in the art of pairing wine with food. Both agreed that the wines served at the dinner, while quite good, fell short of the expectations for such a grand event-a bit of constructive criticism that will be shared with the hope of serving higher-quality wines at next year’s event. I would appreciate our wine experts sharing their thoughts on the pairings of the menu. Chef Michael Mina is a highly-recognized, award-winning Chef. He has four restaurants in Las Vegas, including Stripsteak at Mandalay Bay and Seablue and Nobhill Tavern at the MGM Grand. Chef Anthony Amoroso heads the kitchen of “Michael Mina” seafood restaurant in Bellagio. “Crispy Pork Belly, Vegetables a’la Greque, Wild Arugula, California Ranch Olive Oil” served with “Domaine Ott Rose ‘Clos Mireille’ Cotes du Provence, 2007”- I have recently become a student of cooking pork belly. My personal tastes call for pork belly with a blistered, crackling skin, an underlying layer of juicy fat and a foundation layer of meat with a deep, pork flavor. Now I am not specifically criticizing this treatment of pork belly as I assume it was prepared and sliced in the manner in which the Chefs intended. But I prefer my pork belly cut into a thick steak if you will, so that each bite has the taste and texture of each element-crispy, (the skin), juicy, (the layer of fat), and meaty, (the layer of pork). This rendition of pork belly was cut into thin strips which had the effect of basically cutting out any taste texture found in a thick layer of crackling skin. The pork suffered from a lack of natural flavor and was under-seasoned for my tastes. The subject of the beef served in Las Vegas, or across America for that matter, is a topic unto itself-and a topic that spirals into a discussion of grass-fed versus grain-fed, Wagyu versus Kobe, grade A1 or A5, dry-aged versus wet-aged, Angus versus Charolais. The restaurants of Bellagio serve a ratio of 70% beef to 30% seafood, an indication of the preference of customers to indulge in beef that is often priced much higher than live Maine Lobster. If you sense some cynicism in my voice as I enter into a description of the beef course served at the Grand Gala dinner then you are correct. But you should realize that my cynicism regarding “Wagyu” beef is born more out of my heritage as descendant of Oregon cattlemen rather than being a defendant of the intricacies of prime beef. I do find it hard to defend eating a 7 ounce steak that runs upwards of $159 dollars in a Las Vegas steakhouse-but such is the cost of what some perceive to be the best. Chef Robert Moore heads the staff at Jean-Georges Vongertichten’s Prime Steakhouse in Bellagio. Chef Moore presented us his rendition of Wagyu with Asian flavors. “Dry-aged A5 Wagyu Rib-Eye, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms, Radish, Sesame Mustard” served with “Chateau Goulee, Medoc, Bordeaux, 2005”- My steak was cooked to a perfect medium-rare and it was delicious-just not something I would care to order in a steakhouse. Now maybe I haven’t eaten enough Wagyu or Kobe to appreciate the strands of marbled fat that ripple through the meat, and maybe that is why I tasted more fat than beef in this cut of Wagyu. It must be my heritage, it’s that taste memory that will never be erased-the flavor and texture of old-fashioned beef cattle raised on the pastures of Oregon have jaded my tastes for “super-premium” Wagyu. After dinner ended, we were escorted back onto the patio for a dessert extravaganza presented by Chef Jean-Phillippe Maury-one of the world’s great French Pastry chefs. The displays of pastries and sweets was seemingly endless-everything from fresh-roasted hazelnuts and pecans, (actually being roasted at the display), artistic sugar sculptures, all manner of chocolate creations, candies, ice creams, sorbets, cakes, tarts and tortes. The sweets were accompanied by “Inniskilin Vidal Blanc, “Ice Wine,” Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 2006.” I am quite a happy man when I end a wonderful evening with French pastries and Ice Wine. One of the whimsical dessert displays- I suppose I can use at least one gambling metaphor since we are discussing Las Vegas. As fate would have it, just before dinner started, I was moved from “Table 9” at the last minute to what I thought would be the less desirable “Table 21” in the back of the ballroom. But then I remembered that “21” is supposed to be a lucky number in Las Vegas. I found myself the only gentleman in the company of two ladies from Las Vegas, two ladies from New York and two ladies from Calgary. Aside from a few details that probably only a cranky Food Writer would notice, the Grand Gala Dinner was a great success. What do you think? Can a meal at a banquet be as good as a meal at a restaurant?

Thank you Todd for donating countless hours of your time and for making a difference to all of us who share this wonderful passion of the culinary world. I look forward to your posts.

Thanks doc. When we set out on this "Klatsch," it was our mission to bring forward questions and issues that aren't typically asked or reported on at culinary events in Las Vegas. The focus tends to be on the entertainment aspect of the events. And while their is great pleasure that comes from the entertainment aspect of Las Vegas-I wanted to go deeper and stir a debate as to to how an event like "Uncork'd" can have a positive impact on the culinary issues of the day. I think we would both agree that after our debates last year about "Uncork'd"-and subsequent discussions on topics like the "James Beard Taste America" events in Las Vegas and the "Michelin Stars in Las Vegas" topic that there were still unresolved questions that lingered around dining in Las Vegas. I don't think we ever questioned the fact that there were top-level Chefs in Las Vegas that were cooking with superior ingredients. Yet we seemed to be left with a hollow sense that we had only touched upon--and had never fully answered or discussed--those lingering, deeper, questions about the state of cuisine in Las Vegas. I would agree with you that Las Vegas lacks in having a truly regional imprint to draw from in influencing the cuisine of the city. I suppose it's a combination of factors-the extreme climate and geographic location of the city and the fact that Las Vegas literally grew out of the desert in the past century without a long culinary tradition behind it are just two examples. Yet, as I think our "Klatsch" has uncovered, Las Vegas has some very unique culinary attributes to offer. I still have a few more reports to make--and I hope the discussions of the issues we've brought forward continue long after my reporting ends.

On Saturday morning, I attended a discussion the “Culinary Conversations: Farm to Table,” panel. As we review my report on the “Farm to Table” discussion, we should consider these questions- -How do Chef’s in Las Vegas support local farms and producers and insure fresh, seasonal products for their restaurants? -Can the concept of a local, seasonal menu work in Las Vegas where everything is brought in from somewhere else? -Does it matter that there are not a lot of farms in the Las Vegas area? The “Farm to Table” panel featured- Chef Rick Moonen, RM Seafood Chef Bradley Ogden, Bradley Ogden Chef Paul Bartolotta, Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare Chef Edmund Wong, Executive Chef-Bellagio Barbara Fairchild, Editor-In-Chief, Bon Appetit Andrew Knowlton, Restaurant Editor, Bon Appetit John Curtas, Food Journalist, ELV, KNPR and KLAS Las Vegas Chef Wong served two dishes that spoke of the “Farm to Table” theme. “Artisan Feta Cheese, Cured Tomato, Eggplant and Spring Vegetable Salad”- “Boneless Pork Ribs, Soy-Citrus Glaze”- “Pickled Cucumber”- The cuisine in Las Vegas is often criticized for the fact that nearly all of the products are brought in from somewhere else. A criticism that I’ve felt has always been overly harsh and unfair. If we take the issue to the extreme, are we saying that we would never serve a slice of lemon with fresh Dungeness Crab in Seattle simply because lemons don’t grow in Seattle? For those of us who live in Eastern Washington, should we deny serving our families asparagus from California for Easter dinner because the asparagus from Walla Walla won’t be cut until late May? It seems to me, a more reasonable approach is to focus on the main points brought forward by the Chefs and Journalists on the panel: -The focus should be buying the highest quality products available. -The products should be “seasonal” and harvest at their peak flavor. -The products should be grown and harvested in an environmentally-responsible manner. -Chefs can encourage consumer buying through promoting quality, fresh products that are reasonably priced in the market. Chef Moonen is one of the top Chefs in America-yet his contributions to the way we dine and eat doesn’t end when he leaves the kitchen. We think of Las Vegas as a barren desert when it comes to the agricultural landscape-but that is changing-and responsible Chefs like Rick Moonen are leading the movement. Chef Moonen is working with a farm that is 40 minutes North of Las Vegas. They have planted over 60 fruit trees, and raise chickens and hogs. The animals are served clean vegetables left-over from Chef Moonen’s restaurant. And—the next goal is to fuel the vehicles that drive from the restaurant to the farm with used cooking oils from the kitchen. Last week, Chef Bartolotta won the James Beard Award as “Best Chef Southwest.” He is known for his passion and dedication to serving the finest, freshest seafood from the Mediterranean. It is a dedication like no other and is the definition of “Farm to Table.” Chef Bartolotta has very specific specifications for the seafood he buys for the restaurant. He buys wild seafood caught from single lines off dayboats. He has access, often via cell phone and computer, to track the seafood from the point of harvest, throughout the shipping process and final delivery to his kitchen at Wynn. There are two additional ingredients that form the basis of Chef Bartolotta’s cuisine-tomatoes and olive oil. The emphasis on procuring the finest, freshest seafood is continued in the selection of the tomatoes used in the restaurant. Chef Bartolotta has a group of farms across the country that he buys from-and he has a system to monitor each farm so that he knows precisely the time of year, down to the day, that a specific variety of tomato is ready for harvest. Earlier during my report on the dinner at Payard, we got into a discussion on the fact that “Chilean Sea Bass” was served-a species that has been horribly over-fished. Chilean Sea Bass are often caught in “trawl” nets-vast nets pulled by factory ships that scour the ocean and capture other species of fish and sea birds. I asked the panel what they thought of a Chef who listed “Chilean Sea Bass” on a menu-a menu in a high-profile, fine dining restaurant no less. They were, to say the least, quite happy to address the issue in a very matter-of-fact way. “No Chef should ever serve Chilean Sea Bass. Never.” And—“Chefs absolutely have a responsibility to be open to their customers and list on the menu where the fish come from and that they are a sustainable species.” Chef Bartolotta put it in practical terms-aside from the issue of a Chef’s responsibility, “there are so many other fish and shellfish with far more flavorful than Chilean Sea Bass.” I agree Chef. We must do our part to select fresh, flavorful foods that are harvested in a manner that is sustainable. None of the Chefs on the “Farm to Table” panel support fish that are harvested in large trawl nets-nets that basically drown the fish when they are captured, starving them of oxygen and ultimately affecting the flavor of the fish. On the suggestion of the members of the panel, I urge you to go to the Monterey Bay Aquarium website for information on the current state of the world’s oceans and the seafood we should avoid purchasing. You can find the website and the "Seafood Watch" page here . Chef Wong operates on a scale so huge that it is almost inconceivable-he is responsible for the selection and procurement of all the foods served in one of the largest hotels in the world-venues that run the gamut from banquets, rooms service, casual dining, fine dining and pastry. The purchasing department, for food alone, is 20 people. But the enormous scale of the Bellagio food and beverage operation doesn’t mean that quality and freshness are forgotten. The “Farm to Table” concept also applies. Chef Wong has a Chef whose job is to monitor quality-down to making sure that the fresh apples and Asian pears served on the buffet are tested for ripeness and sugar content in order to insure that they are at their peak flavor. Chef Bradley Ogden is a James Beard Award winning Chef and one of the first Chefs to actually work directly with foragers and farmers to supply his restaurants with fresh, organic, seasonal foods. For over thirty years he has been a leader of the “Farm to Table” movement. Chef Ogden has a forager for his Las Vegas restaurant who lives in Los Angeles. He talks to the farmers, he walks into the fields, he sees the animals grazing in the pasture. The forager is the link between the Chef and the farmer-and he is directly involved in planning the seasonal menus that Chef Ogden serves in Las Vegas. When I asked him what he thought was one of the most important elements of this discussion he said that it was the farmer. “The farmer wants to know where their food goes. They want to know you appreciate it-that you are enjoying feeding your family with his food.” Chef Ogden said that “Gathering through foragers and working with farmers helps us develop our customer’s palates. I can serve you fresh rainbow trout freshly caught out of an icy stream in Michigan” as opposed to “frozen trout.” From left to right, Chef Bartolotta, John Curtas, Andrew Knowlton, Barbara Fairchild, Chef Ogden, Chef Wong (hidden), Chef Moonen- I applaud Bon Appetit for sponsoring such an important discussion-a discussion that we should carry forward long after the memories of the festivities of “Uncork’d” have faded. Las Vegas is a city often remembered more for glitz and glamour and the lost hopes of gamblers. Yet it's also a city that has the ability to affect the way we think about food, the choices we make. Bon Appetit serves as the vehicle that can bridge the gap between the Chefs and the public in order to further the way America eats. The issue of “Farm to Table” is not limited to a discussion of how Chefs source products for their restaurants. It’s also a discussion of how consumers can influence how vegetables are grown, how salmon habitat is restored and how we can serve better foods to our families. It’s about how we can eat in a more healthy and sustainable way. Chef’s Moonen, Ogden, Bartolotta and Wong can create the foundation and Bon Appetit can inform. It’s up to us to continue to bring the concept of “Farm to Table” home. As Barbara Fairchild said, “Consumers can change the products we buy in supermarkets. Twenty years ago we didn’t have fresh herbs, chilies, a cheese selection or fresh seafood. Chefs and Consumers can affect the way we eat.” What can we, individually and collectively, do to continue the movement of “Farm to Table?”

Thanks for that recap - I've used The Olives Dessert Table (and the recipes from The Olives Table and from The Figs Table) for years - with much success as a home baker. I may not always make all the components, but the ideas are good and make dessert much more memorable. I think we continue to have an insatiable appetite for sweets - and it may be getting worse as we continue to train our minds to want these by indulging. That said, I'm in the camp of knowing what is on the dessert menu before deciding what to order for dinner! Plenty of room for the classics and new desserts at home and in restaurants. As long as they taste good and appeal to my other senses. I like new flavors and textures - from cayenne in my chocolate to pistachio powder under my cake, and most definitely, infusing popcorn into my ice cream! But foie gras ice cream, no thanks (but then I am not a fan of it anyway.) Last question - classics - both ways! ← I agree with you-we should celebrate the classics, but open our minds and palates to creating "new" traditions. And I like your adventurous side-cayenne in chocolate and popcorn flavors and textures in ice cream. Chef Sarah Kosikowski would agree with your thinking. I forgot to mention she put a hint of sweet paprika in the chocolate ganache to smooth out the flavor. It was delicious!

The Grand Tasting Event on Friday night was held outdoors amidst the pools of Caesar’s Palace. “Grand Tasting” Events are very, very popular in Las Vegas. They give the public the opportunity to meet Chefs from some of the finest restaurants in Las Vegas and taste some of their best dishes. You can read a recent report I wrote on another tasting event in Las Vegas here. The Grand Tasting at “Uncork’d” is unique from other events in that it includes the high-end restaurants like Joel Robuchon and Guy Savoy. If you had seen the throngs of ravenous people at the Grand Tasting you would have never guessed that Las Vegas is currently one of the most economically depressed cities in America. I’ve been attending this event for three years and this was by far the biggest crowd that I’ve witnessed at the Grand Tasting. Some of the restaurants of Caesar’s Palace and Chefs in attendance, included, Bradley Ogden-Chef Ogden, Mesa Grill-Chef Bobby Flay, Restaurant Guy Savoy -Chef Savoy, Rao’s-Chef Carla Pelligrino- The public has a voracious appetite, literally, for these large events where they have the opportunity to sample “Potato Chips Fried in Goose Fat” served with “Truffle Mayonnaise.” (It was very good). I typically prefer the more intimate settings offered at Uncork’d like the private dinners, the “Culinary Conversations,” and the “Culinary Revelations” classes. But I also realize the benefit of a Grand Tasting-and it can be a great venue for people watching and sampling some delicious bites from the best restaurants in Las Vegas. The contingent of well-known Chefs in attendance at the Grand Tasting have a huge influence in drawing the public to these events. And, in turn, they have the added effect of drawing people to many of the restaurants in Las Vegas that have booths at the Grand Tasting. Another unique aspect of the Grand Tasting at “Uncork’d” is that the public has the opportunity to meet well-known Chefs and cookbook authors like Chef Tom Collichio, Chef Hubert Keller. A late-night shot of Chef Collichio signing cookbooks- Do these events merely serve as public relations vehicles? Or-do you think that a Grand Tasting event has an impact on how consumers dine and make choices in how they cook at home? I’m interested in hearing your thoughts.

On Friday afternoon, I attended one of the “Culinary Revelations” cooking seminars that are a part of “Uncork’d.” There were classes on Sushi, Cocktails and Wine, but in my case, I chose the “Sweet Classics Gone Contemporary” class held at the Tuscany Display Kitchen at Bellagio. The class was hosted by Hugh Garvey, Features Editor for Bon Appetit. My instructor’s were two of the most talented Pastry Chefs in Las Vegas, Sarah Kosikowski-Pastry Chef at Michael Mina at Bellagio, and Robin Swenson-Pastry Chef at Olive’s at Bellagio. Chef Kosikowski was recently nominated in the Rising Star Chef category by the James Beard Foundation. The Tuscany Display Kitchen- Pastry is one of the many indulgences that people seek when they come to Las Vegas, but the core group of students in this class weren’t merely there to see how some of the beautiful pastries served in Las Vegas are created. The students included some very serious home cooks-part of the base demographic of Bon Appetit-home cooks who want to venture away from making Chocolate Chip Cookies and Lemon Meringue Pie. Home cooks may not venture into the world of haute French pastry served by Jean-Philippe Maury at JP Patisserie at Bellagio, but they can find inspiration and technical knowledge in lessons from professionals. Flat-screen televisions were spaced throughout the large classroom to give students close-up shots of the demonstration- I’ll admit that I’ve not always been a favor of dishes that I’d classify as “trendy”-desserts are just one example-dishes listed on a menu like “Chocolate Cream Pie.“ You dream of Mom’s chocolate cream pie, but what’s brought to the table is a thimble of chocolate with a flourish of cream and chocolate feathers reaching a foot above the table. It sounds tempting and trendy on the menu, looks good on the plate, the garnishes are whimsical, but it lacks flavor. Pastry Chef Robin Swenson of Olives presented a “Pineapple Strudel with Basil Cream and Blueberries.” This is a perfect example of a simple pastry that we can do at home-layers of buttered phyllo blanketing a warm compote of fresh pineapple cooked in sugar and vanilla. Chef Swenson garnished the dish with fresh blueberries that had been warmed in sugar and water in a sauté pan, a thin slice of pineapple, and basil cream. The home cook probably doesn’t have a meat slicer to cut paper-thin slices of pineapple, (the equipment that Chef Swenson uses in the pastry kitchen). But if you do, use it. It will give you incredibly thin slices of fruit that can be dried in a warm oven. A Mandoline slicer is a good substitute for cutting the pineapple. I was just as suspect of serving “basil cream” with a pastry as I was of anything sounding “trendy.” Yet once I took in the aroma of the cream and tasted it with the pineapple, I realized it made perfect sense. Chef Swenson starts by making a simply syrup infused with basil. She then swirls a small amount of the basil syrup into whipped cream. The cream is lifted with by the subtle flavor and scent of the basil-and it adds to the a tropical dimension to the pineapple strudel. “Pineapple Strudel with Basil Cream and Blueberries”- One of the signatures of the cuisine of Michael Mina are “trios” dishes. For example, on the current menu at the Las Vegas restaurant one of the entrée offerings is described as “Three Lil’ Birds-Jidori Chicken, Cavendish Farms Quail and Liberty Valley Duck.” Each of the three poultry treatments is served with individual sauces and garnishments. Chef Kosikowski is known for creating desserts based on classic sweets like the Banana Split. She’s given the creative rein in the restaurant to design desserts that show her personality while at the same time carrying through on the Mina “trios” theme. Our class would be given a demonstration on one of the current dishes on the Michael Mina dessert menu-“Banana Split, S’mores and Lemon Meringue Pie.” As I listened to Chef Kosikowski explain her creative process, I realized that I had never really looked deeper into my personal definition of “trendy.” I had disregarded updating classic desserts as simply being “trendy”-a way to serve over-priced desserts to unsuspecting Las Vegas tourists. I realized there is in fact a thought process that goes beyond what on the surface I viewed as trendy-and it applies beautifully to what Chef Kosikowski does in the Mina pastry kitchen. And more importantly, they are pastries we can create at home. Chef Robin Swenson, (left) and Chef Sarah Kosikowski (right)- We can look beyond the mere “trendy” menu descriptions and see these pastries starting with an inspiration based on a classic dessert, then combined with the science of baking and a measure of modern creativity, (basil syrup to infuse an herbal, tropical note into whipped cream is just one example). “Banana Split”- The first part of the “trio” was composed of banana lightly cooked in syrup, malted ice cream, toasted walnuts, whipped cream and a maraschino cherry sauce. I must stop and say that the maraschino cherry sauce was the single-best taste I discovered at “Uncork’d.” It was a burst of cherry flavor like no other. I had dined on the cuisine of Robuchon the night before, but it was this little maraschino cherry garnish that won my heart in Las Vegas-and it’s something you should try at home. Simply place some maraschino cherries in a blender and process into a puree. You will have an intense, ruby-red cherry sauce that will surprise your family. “S’mores”- This updated version of the campfire classic begins with a pastry base made of oat groats, then a layer of chocolate ganache and toasted marshmallow. The pastry is garnished with toasted coconut and a swish of the ganache. To the point of making chocolate-based pastries, the Chef’s suggested that home cooks follow their lead in using the highest-quality ingredients. Valrhona chocolate, fresh eggs and European butter for example. Yes, these are very expensive ingredients, but the home cook uses a small enough amount that we should consider the expense worth the end result when baking at home. “Lemon Meringue Pie-“ The base of the dish is blueberry, the “crust” a shortbread cookie, then lemon curd and a finale of pieces of meringue. The finished dessert “trio”- I know I’ll be suggesting that Bon Appetit offer more of the “Culinary Revelations” classes at the 2010 “Uncork’d” events. Do you think pastry is undergoing a resurgence in both restaurants and in home kitchens? Or-have we always had an insatiable appetite for sweets? Should Pastry Chefs and home cooks stick to the classics? Is the technique of infusing herbs or savory elements into desserts merely “trendy?” Or, should we be looking to discover new flavors and textures by changing classic desserts to fit today’s tastes?

While I agree that it would have been interesting to have Chefs from other cuisines on a panel, in this particular case, the theme was the "French Connection" and so it was specifically directed to French Cuisine. It was pretty apparent that these Chefs are defenders, arguably elitist, in their regard of French cuisine. Certainly the financial backing of the Casino Hotels is what brought these Chefs to Las Vegas. Their contracts apparently read like the contracts of some of the top Entertainers that appear in Las Vegas. Every detail is looked over, including transportation, accomodation, a montly fee and a percentage of the monthly revenue from the restaurant. ← Another point I wanted to add on the issue of competition among the French Chefs is that it is as much, if not more, a matter of competition between the hotel/casinos in Las Vegas as it is a competition between Chefs. Robuchon is at the MGM which is part of the MGM-Mirage family of properties. Ducasse is at Mandalay Bay, also a part of MGM-Mirage. Savoy is at Caesar's, part of the Harrah's corporation. And Boulud is at Wynn, part of the Wynn group of hotels. Aside from the financial backing that has brought these Chefs to Las Vegas and sustained them through these difficult times-they have brought a level of cuisine that otherwise may not have otherwise been accessible to so many people.