ulterior epicure

thanks for that review and update. unfortunately (or fortunately), my tenure in the european states is quickly coming to an end! i am off to my next stop in turkey and then back to the states for the holidays - so neither winkler nor tantris will be getting a visit from me... i'm sorry you were so disappointed in winkler. however, i will keep your thoughts in mind... cheers! ulterior epicure.

I hate say it... and no offense intended... but even money can't buy good taste... u.e.

I was at Tribute a little less than a year ago - just before Yagihashi left. My friends and I had the full tasting menu. It was a solid performance, but not a dazzler... service was friendl(ier towards the end)y but not necessarily efficient - a few times, the wines were poored after the course had been served... I know the new chef came from Le Francais in Chicago - which I visited under its original proprietor Liccioni... so I can't say that I know much about Yamauchi's cuisine. I know he's a very different from Yagihashi, and supposedly hand-picked by his predecessor. Would love to hear recent reports from those who have visited! U.E.

You think this "gracious" provision holds true for non-alcoholic drinking guests? I don't drink, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it might be the root of some "off-service" in French restaurants when a simple carafe d'eau is requested... Re: minimal water-intake... I to marvel at the (low) levels of water that the French seem to get by on. I'm sure that I would choke on my food for lack of hydration if I were limited to a demi of Perrier through a salty, fatty multi-course meal - even if I were drinking wine! U.E.

Now that's novel... I never really considered it a possibility... but you may just be right on this one! I also think this is a very viable explanation. One interesting experience I had lately was at L'Arnsbourg in the nether regions of Alsace-Lorraine. Though it is remote, I'm almost sure that (some of) the staff spoke English. They knew that I did too... very well. Although I fancy myself proficient in French, I was expecting the staff to give me the typical "tourist" type of treatment that we, and robert, have noted (ie. refusing to converse with English-speaking diners in French). Yet, no one spoke English to me the whole time - not even when I would ask for an explanation in English due to lack of comprehension in French. In fact, I started to wonder at times whether the staff did in fact speak English... thankfully, my French was good enough for me to understand 90% of what was served, and when I asked for them in written form, my Fracais-Anglais dictionary was able to reveal the rest... Another interesting note - all of the diners in the room were operating in German. Given the proximity to the German border, the entire staff easily switched between the two (Fr. and Ger.). U.E.

I've actually devoured (pun intended) both "Comfort..." and "Tender..." and have been (spend-thriftfully) awaiting the paperback edition of "Garlic..." It's been agonizing to wait, but since I'm abroad, it's really rather infeasible for me to obtain the hard-copy in English as it is... and I'm soon returning to the U.S., so I decided to wait... but I can't wait to tear through another Reichl read! I'm also really anxious to get my hands on "The Perfectionist" - especially after having dined through the Michelin Guide Rouge all across Europe. U.E.

I definitely agree with this. I have been to all three (all within a month of each visiting each other) and my experience at each one was markedly different - which was made the experiences so much more interesting and pleasant. U.E.

I know I'm too late to help out munchymom... but for future readers, I agree whole heartily with =R='s recommendations. =R= - we should dine together! As for Scylla, I sigh... I never made it during my three month gig in Chicago this summer. North Pond and Blackbird being especially great... I've been to Spring once - about a year ago, and it was fantastic. Chef McClain personally cooked me a seven-course meal (so maybe my opinion is slightly biased... )... but I have heard raves from all of my friends whom I have sent there... I'm sorry I can't say the same for Spring's sister restaurant... Green Zebra I found terribly (overpriced) crowded, noisy, and minimalist - in quantity... As for Avec - great place if you don't mind sitting at a bar or the "volume 13" atmosphere... service can be sassy, but efficient. Prices though, I gripe... U.E.

shadow. I hope I'm not too late for this... I have to admit I'm in a hurry and haven't read all the responses and details of this string, but briefly: I had an amazing meal each at last fall (2004): Cosmos (in Le Meridien Hotel) Levain (outskirts/suburbs) I would HIGHLY recommend both of them. I think what chef S.B. Dougherty is doing at the Cosmos is divine. Subsequently to my visit, my pleasure was reinforced when he was named one of Food + Wine's 10 Best New Chefs... You can read my review of Levain on my blog. Otherwise - the City Paper - I think Daria Moskowitz is a great read, even if you don't agree with her suggestions/tastes. Let us know what you decide and how you fared! U.E.

JWest. I just had a number of outstanding grilled sardine dishes at various tapas bars in Barcelona last month. I agree that the Gold/Smith ones are every bit just as good... sigh.. well, at least I can (hopefully) always rely on a bit of honest Mediterrean culinary love in K.C.! U.E.

If any of you have been to TRU in Chicago, then you'll definitely note the Gand training in M. Garrelts' creations. I never appreciated Andres for what they are truly worth when I was (very) young... only when I "refined" my palate through a multitude of travels abroad did I come to really esteem the work and the very honestly traditional metier that they ply there. I think they're truly a remarkable enterprise. I'm not a fan of buttercream (too rich for even my palate), but it is very high quality. (Here, I speak only of their desserts. I don't have enough experience with their food (lately) to comment.). Lots of care in what they make - and for that, I truly appreciate their products. U.E.

Well, in terms of a "special/unique" experience - certainly. I don't think the service or the food is as refined... but I think as a whole, it's of comparable culinary significance as the others. Of the ones you listed, Avenues is my favorite... by far... my experiences at Trotter and Tru round out the bottom of the quartet. (Here, I am speaking in terms of total package). As for Moto's new website - whoever made the comment about it being enormous and unwieldly - I AGREE - just like the restaurant's food portioning... U.E.

I assume that you are in Istanbul as we type?

Yes, I KNOW - (LOUD sigh of exasperation) I tried to get reservations, but because of timing (I had a short weekend to play with because I wasted a perfectly fine meal at Ca L'Isidre), I couldn't get in... I spent the meal, instead (to my surprise, at a rather empty, but very good) Can Fabes... ....sigh.... I just had lunch with another eGulleter who just went to Can Roca and the reports back have been really envy-provoking... sous vides at Can Roca... need to put that on my "to-eat" list... Thanks Corinna! That egg sounds divine!! That's exactly the type of food I wished restaurants would serve more often and flaunt as having been prepared "sous vides" - it's unusual and can potentially be a showpiece for a creative/master chef's talents... (not that other food products can't - lest any other eGulleters get testy... ). U.E.

Thanks nathanm! A very fine and fair posting! That was very thorough and thoughtful. I wish I could take my initial question back, or somehow amend it. I suspect that your explanation (above) "solves the mystery" for me. Having been exposed to a myriad of different cultures and cooking methods from a very young age - sous vides has never been a particularly 'glamorous' or particularly 'special' way of preparing food - just another technique - as you noted (like roasting, grilling, baking, poaching...etc...). I guess I have been rather surprised that restaurants/chefs have been talking about the method/featuring the method as some exotic, special and innovative culinary feat... and perhaps it is when done well - but certainly no more than when any of the other techniques mentioned are applied well... U.E.

It's been about four years since I moved from Manhattan Beach... this thread is dredging up some eating memories. What's the name of that really simple, homey, all vegan/vegetarian restaurant in Hermosa (I think it's in Hermosa)? Was it "The Spot?" Is that still around? I'm not a vegetarian, but I do remember I went there a couple of times (pulled by my vegetarian friend) and had a memorable "walnut and mushroom 'meat loaf'" that wasn't too terrible... U.E.

paulajk. thanks for the report... to be honest, i was a little underwhelmed by your experience... i was hoping for fireworks... very happy for you that it improved upon your earlier disappointment at le bristol! u.e.

Ahh... now there's a viable eplanation I hadn't really considered at length... although I had just assumed that vacuum packaging machines were pretty common in restaurants. I'm not quite sure that the plastic wrap (though it is expensive) warrants charging of $30 for a piece of pork... U.E.

sazji: I U! Thanks for all of that - I will take more time and take down your advice on notes so that I can do some proper research before I go! Cheers. U.E.!

I give up... Yes, as I have said, I understand the efficiency/cost-cutting/and even "tenderizing" advantages to sous vides... I just: 1) Have yet to be pleased by a restaurant's sous vides preparation - which does not undermine the method's efficacy nor value, and 2). Do not understand, in light of my lackluster experiences, why restaurants proudly feature this technique on cuts of meat that may not necessarily benefit the most from the method, and 3) Am stupified why restaurants would charge so much for this method - if it is easier, and more cost-efficient... ...that is all... EDIT (to add): I suppose I just remain justifiably at lost as to the "specialness" of sous vides items offered on menus... U.E.

...true, however, the concept and effect can be the same if the bladder is tightly secured (closed) - one can "poach" a piece of meat in a non-porous container in a heated element maintained at a certain temperature... crude, but it work(s/ed). u.e.

good point, although you'd have a hard time convincing me that sous vides was a "new" method... ...yes, you hit it on the nose.. i keep ordering sous vides in hopes of gettin a dish that has actually capitalized upon the "sous videsness"... but have been disappointed with the outcome... ... well, currently, i'm living abroad, but when i was in the u.s. this summer (all over the mid-west and in n.y.c., i saw this featured (and tried) on a number of menus. i've also noticed it on a few menus at top-end restaurants here in Europe. U.E.

sazji. thanks!! that was very thorough - i especially appreciate your phoenetic queues! any restaurant recommendations? u.e.

thanks anzu. yes, i've done it before, but i forgot exactly what i did. all i remember is once i added butter and a bit of cream and either it did or didn't harden... and the other time, i just melted the chocolate (with perhaps a bit of water) and i got the other result... u.e.

Apparently, my initial comment was ill-put. I didn't mean to disparage anyone's tastes/preferences or our fowl or non-bovine friends. I was simply using them as examples of meats that can be prepared very tenderly by a myriad of other methods. I just fail to see why there is such a large up-charge for the sous vides method - especially when its benefits aren't fully realized in the final product. It just seems that more often than not, I'm served sous vides-prepared food that doesn't have any identifiable quality of having benefitted uniquely from the method. I suppose all of this is making me realize that the 'mystique' of the 'mystique' of sous vides is all made up by my own head - that is to say, it's how I've chosen to "read" the presentation by restaurants... Certainly not on this end either. EDIT: umm... I was the one who suggested using bladder instead! No, my issue isn't with the plastic - I guess it's just with the whole concept being lauded as the ultimate experience as many establishments seem to try to do... as you and Shalmanese have pointed out quite clearly, it's a method that most anyone can achieve... I guess, in the end - my question is: Why are top-end chefs boasting about their sous vides (fill in your meat product)? U.E.