ulterior epicure

side question... why isn't l'os a moelle even listed in this past year's edition? am i missing something?? u.e.

Pim! You're never too late to this party. Have been on your blog and followed it. Right... but I guess the title is a little outdated - perhaps it should be "Les Etoiles in the making...?" Could you please expound on this - I haven't seen any 'espoir' designations on my Michelin Guides... Thanks! U.E.

1. sorry, i can't help you on the full imagegullet "how-to" link. i hope you do find it soon! 2. based on vinobiondo's and molto e's comments (above), i think that i'm going to shoot for either le bristol or pre catalan. perhaps fate (booked reservations) will decide for me... i guess grand vefour as a third back-up? u.e.

Wince!

Is the truffle all "truffled" out after flavoring the eggs, or is it still good for cooking/shaving? I saw a discussion on the pros and cons of adding rice/risotto. U.E.

GASP!! I can't see ANY of the pictures! This terribly teasing... U.E.

Based on this description - I definitely had white truffles. Wow! That's a great idea! 1. Can you expound on the method (number of eggs, size of truffle, etc...)? 2. How would you prepare the eggs to maximize the treatment? I've never understood the fascination, use... it never tastes like truffles like me... How much would a reasonably priced walnut-sized truffle weigh (ie. cost)? Thanks for all the info and ideas! U.E.

What do you mean by significantly more food? What menu did you order from? I'm going for lunch... large portions aren't necessarily a drawback - I don't have to eat all of it. I'd rather have more than enough than not enough! Thanks for the advice, but I"m not concerned with company issues - I'm used to dining alone - and if the weather's nice - a walk through the bois doesn't sound so bad - I'd work up an appetite... I wonder how well they cater to walk-ins... on second thought, better not risk it as I'll be visiting on a Friday. Couldn't have put it better myself! I'm surprised they let you substitute at all... do you remember how many courses the Pre Catalan lunch menu was? If I'm not mistaken, Grand Vefours was four - entree, plat, cheese and dessert... for 75 Euros. Price at Pre Catalan? Again, I don't need pyrotechnics - but I could do without the frumpy, stodgy, rigid French traditional tastes, ingredients and plating... Can't wait! U.E.

Re: making the rounds. I actually was shocked when I first saw a high-powered chef doing so... I would have thought they would want to avoid the starry-eyed gawking and gushing... I guess some don't mind (or even enjoy it)... Recently, Detournier toured his room during a lunch service... and, as I mentioned, Daniel Boulud has also done so. U.E.

Molto E. Sorry... I should clarify - I was only considering the lunch menu. I don't doubt that their a la carte would definitely offer pleny of pleasers. U.E.

Great to know... yeah, I fear even Le Bristol is a tad more traditional than I like. I also remember seeing a copy of their lunch menu recently and nothing "read" appealing to me... although certainly that might be making the same "judging a book..." mistake that I might be making with regards to the dining room... While it may be a high-wire act, it might be a little too "lofty" for my budget on this trip... sigh... perhaps one day. Anyone out there want to sponsor me? Yeah, it seems that Le Meurice and Le Bristol are "twins" in my mind... they seem of the same bent. Of course, this statement may be quite controversial and cause much commotion amongst the more experienced out there... U.E.

Could you please articulate/define "inferior?" U.E.

John. Can you explain the double vision? (See below). Thanks. U.E.

Hmmm... Lots to think about... To be sure, I've never actually seen Jamin's space, so I can't say. I have seen the Bristol's "Winter Garden" - if it's the ovalish room directly across from the front door? Yes, Le Meurice has popped up on my radar, but I've been hearing mixed reviews? Any recent visiters out there? What's Lassere all about? Thanks for putting up with too many question from a Parisien "newby!" The Ulterior Epicure

Thanks Molto E. 1. Well, I'm pretty sure from your description that I had white truffle as it was VERY aromatic and didn't have much taste. I would also venture to guess that it was the real thing... as it was at a three star... I suppose to use a knock off would be embarrassing... but to be honest, I wouldn't know the difference. 2. So, am I to understand that the term "Alba" is exclusively reserved for white and "Perigord" for black? 3. Yes, I've encountered black truffles in all of the forms you've mentioned - including the most outstanding, which was a foie and black truffle demi-glace that I had last year at Le Bernardin. U.E.

...pity, Jean-Georges didn't show when I visited... but J. Iuzzini did prepare a special dessert for me after my dessert... which sent me in a tizzy, as I have been a great fan of his for a long time. I also got a chance to talk with him and he was very personable. No Batali sightings - although Daniel Boulud did make the effort to make the rounds, albeit quickly, on my last visit - even though he was hosting (and cooking) for a private reception for Bocuse in the back party room. Eric Ripert rushed in and out of the kitchen in his whites, but didn't have time to stop to say hello (despite my request). Either he's not the chatty type, or he was extremely busy... I think he was in the kitchen for a total of ten minutes during my meal (I saw him come and go). Anyone have any personal interactions with Ripert? U.E.

I've nearly always ask to visit with the chef (if I'm interested) and nearly always welcomed to do so. I've had one or two instances where it was obvious the chef wasn't too comfortable with interactions, but I've had chefs even sit down and chat with me at the table (rare, but it has happened). I guess you just have to feel out the staff when you get there. I always politely ask, but don't push it if I feel any resistence or hesitation... I suspect that the below quote is true perhaps because the younger chefs have come to accept the "stardom" of chefs nowadays, where as the more established chefs still see themselves as "people of their trade" - really focused on pleasing the palate rather than the personalities. U.E.

1. Thanks for the Porte Maillot info. 2. Yes, yes, everyone is pointing me in the direction of Le Bristol. Here are my hesitations (feel free, anyone, to address them): I know I shouldn't judge a restaurant "by its cover," but it looked kind of stuffy and classic/traditional in a "frumpy" way... I'v found that I have little patience and gastronomic pleasure in "traditional French" cuisine. As I had mentioned in the earlier string, I've seen enough 1/3 starch, 1/3 veg, 2/3 meat with sauce on a round plate. While I don't need culinary pyrotechnics (cum el Bulli/Alinea) to keep me pleased, I do like to meet the more innovative side of the culinary world. Le Bristol doesn't seem to be able to offer that (same with the Grand Vefour???), from what I've heard and read... that's why I've looked to the likes of Pre Catalan, Table JR, and Jamin for this coming visit... For example, I found the food at Carre des Feuillants infinitely more pleasing than at Le Cinq; Gaig and Can Fabes exceedingly more exciting than Ca l'Isidre; the Avenues much more gastronomically eye-opening than Everest/Charlie Trotters, Jean Georges more than Daniel... and so on... Based on this... any recommendations in Paris? I've heard Apicius to be promising as well as Le Meurice (by the way, can anyone direct me to a string on either?). 3. L'Ambroisie, I fear, is a tad bit out of my budget at this point... I'll be dining alone and would rather not go bust sans ami/l'amour... U.E.

I'm having trouble seeing your Senderens photos... help? Thanks! U.E.

Hi eGulleters. Can somebody please explain the difference (other than geographic origin) between truffles from Alba and those from Perigord? Are Alba always white and Perigord black, or do both areas produce both black and white? I know there's a huge price difference - what accounts for it? Availability, taste, what? I recently had a meal which featured "Alba" truffles. It was a generous shaving of a light coloured truffle. The taste was immensely strong and pungent - very very good... but, later, I saw both black and white truffles in a store that looked the same colour on the inside... is there anyway I can tell whether I had white/black Alba truffle? Thanks much! U.E.

John. Thanks ... which metro? U.E.

Sounds like my kind of place... any idea how much a taxi ride would cost from the nearest train station, NIEDERBRONN LES BAINS?

I'm baaacckkk... OHMYGOSH... the "Amuse Bouche" menu at Dieter Muller's was to DIE FOR... I'm really too tired to give the details now, but I promise a full (translated) menu and the "dish" soon! U.E. ************************* UPDATE ************************** Here it is: Pre-Amuses 1. Rillette of foie topped with a small disc of foie au torchon sitting on a thin toasted brioche. 2. Tandori salmon mousse rolled in black and white sesame seeds. First Course - "Foie Course" 1. Grilled foie with almond cream, cherry confit and almond shavings. 2. Foie terrine "tree trunk sytle" and dehydrated plum (like fruit roll-up). This was a cross-section of a round terrine that had been lined on the outside with very thin strips of sponge cake - thus the cross section looked like a cross-section of a tree trunk. The foie was studded with bits of Perigord truffles. 3. Foie gras "creme brulee." Sitting atop was a small marble-sized ball of foie and Perigord truffle rolled in pumpernickel. Second Course - "Fish Course" 1. Herb-crusted sea scallop sandwiching a thin shaving of Perigord truffle. Cumin sauce. 2. Herb-crusted loup de mer in a chorizo fumet. 3. John Dory crusted with a langoustine chibouste and thin octopus cross-section. Octopus cream sauce. Third Course - "Soup Course" 1. Lemongrass-Curry soup with two shrimps and ramen noodles. 2. Chestnut cream with guinea fowl and generous Alba truffle shavings. 3. "Essence of quail" - quail consomme, pellet-sized vegetables, quail meat, poached quail egg and Perigord studded quenelle. Fourth Course - "Meat Course" 1. Sicilian bacon-wrapped lamb, sliver of lamb tongue, and a potatoe fritter filled with lamb meat. It was all sitting in a chorizo sauce. 2. Veal "osso bucco" - small piece of braised veal in a demi glace with avocado mashed potatoes and a grilled scallion. 3. Venison in a elderberry sponge cake, elderberry sauce and roulade of cabbage. Desserts 1. Orange blossom creme brulee 2. Chocolate cone filled with nougat cream, raspberry sauce. 3. Trio of ices: lemon sorbet, red wine and cassis sorbet, caramilized cinnamon ice cream. 4. A dome of "Kalimanza" (described as a Japanese fruit - I suspect from the taste that it was Yuzu) mousse inside a green geletin coating. 5. Quince gelatin with Moet Chandon champagne "cream sorbet." 6. Pecan souffle. 7. Guinduja chocolate fondant. Petite Fours Chocolate Truffle Carte ....details soon to come on my blog, hopefully... U.E.

It's me again - the one who started the first Trois Etoile En Paris... string... Well, it seems that I will be in Paris in two weeks for a brief long "weekend." One lunch spot open on a Friday... Paris has a chance to redeem itself. I'm opening the floor for suggestions/updates. I know that the Bristol has been highly recommended by all. I'm also curious about Ledoyen, Le Grand Vefor, Pre Catalan (although I have no idea how to get out there),Table JR and Jamin... Obliged much. U.E.

Does anyone, who speaks German, have the time/energy to translate the following for me? +++++++++ Amuse bouche Terrine von Gewürzlachs und Brunnenkresse mit gebackener Auster, Lachstatar und Muschelvinaigrette *** Loup de mer mit Pulpo-Langoustinohaube Bouillabaissesauce und gegrilltem Sepia *** * Maronensüppchen mit Albatrüffel und sautiertem Kalbsbries *** Rücken vom Damhirsch in Pfefferwürze mit Holunderjus, Schwarzwurzeln, Kürbis-Schupfnudeln *** * Champagnercrèmesorbet „Moët & Chandon“ oder Getrüffelter Brie de Meaux mit Traubensenf-Sorbet *** Clafoutis von Birne mit Pekannüssen Quitten und Rahm-Toffeeeis Feine Pâtisserie Menü mit Champagnercrèmesorbet € 130.-- Menü mit Brie de Meaux oder Käseauswahl vom Wagen € 135.-- * ohne diese Gerichte € 105.-- (bei Änderungen des Menüs wird evtl. ein Aufpreis berechnet) +++++++