[i wrote this for a couple of "novice travellers," so please excuse the side travel notes. However, I thought it might be a useful guide to eGulleters who are interested in eating in Buenos Aires. The report is based on a visit in February, 2005. Enjoy!] Here is a list of Buenos Aires restaurants that i visited. I kept a restaurant journal on my travels. I hope you find this helpful. All of the restaurants I've listed are very clean and most feature linened tops. I tended to eat at the better restaurants - but with the exchange rate being so favorable, I would suggest that you "treat yourselves" to some better meals. Here is some helpful advice: 1. Remember, dinner will probably not be served until after 7pm at the earliest. Most restaurants will not even begin to have diners until around 10:30pm. If you're not within walking distance from your hotel, you're better off having the restaurant call a taxi for youa t night. Make sure you have cash on hand for cab rides. 2.Be aware that many places include wine in the price of set menus - so make sure you're not going to be charged for wine. 3.Salads are usually very generous in size - look for hearts of palm, avocados as well as beets. You should seriously consider ordering salad at every meal since it is cheap and entrees tend to be meat-heavy and not include vegetables. Cheese is also very good and abundant. 4. Argentinian food is heavily influenced by Italians. So, there's lots of pastas, pizzas and meat "Milanese" style meats (breaded and fried). Mostly, they are famous for their grilled meats ("asada" = bbq). Some items you should definitely try before you leave: steaks, empanades (meat filled pastries - like a calzone), helado (their gelato), dulce de leche (national dessert - it's like caramel) - mostly featured in their "alfajores," and "yerba mate" tea that they drink out of a hollow gourd (prounounced yer-ba ma-tay), and their salads - very fresh and good. 5. Of course, steak is perhaps the most famous food in Argentina - and is VERY inexpensive (considering the exchange rate). Beware that steak (red meat) portions tend to be VERY BIG - so you and baba could probably split a large steak. Beef, lamb and goat are more popular - pork less so. Fish is also very good. Also, the Argentinians eat a lot of offal (innards), such as tongue, brain, kidneys, sweatbreads (thymus glands - one of my favorites), heart, and intestines. Usually, the meats are grilled and you should specify what doneness you would like your meat prepared... I usually asked for "jugoso" (which means "juicy" - but it means rare). If you see the word "Parilla" - that is the Argentinian word for "Steakhouse." Here are some useful food words: "Molleja" (glands - like sweatbreads) "Crudo" (rare - usually referring to fish) "Jugoso" (juicy, or rare - for red meat) "A punto" (medium rare) "Cocido" (medium to well-done) "Chorizo" (sausages) "Bife de lomo" (filet mignon) "Bife de chorizo" (sirloin strip steak) "Milanese" (breaded and fried - it's an Italian influence) "Empanada" (Argentinian calzone) 6. Also, know that meals often times include a generous "cover" plate - in addition to bread, they often provide a small plate of appetizers... there's a "cover charge" for this, so it's not exactly free - but it's a part of your bill regardless - so you should take advantage of it (the most generous one is at Cubana Las Lilas - see below); it is usually refillable - so you can usually get pretty full off of this and then split an salad and entree between the two of you - but do not just go and eat the cover without ordering, it's probably pretty rude. 7. Tipping is nominal - if you are particularly happy, or if you are in a fancier restaurant, you should tip more - but make sure it's not already included in your bill! Read your guidebooks and see what they say. 8. Desserts are skippable - although you should try their alfejores (you can buy them in an little convenience store for about $.75 US) - they are chocolate covered cookies sandwiching dulce de leche (caramel), which is their national specialty. Most all of desserts will feature dulce de leche and it can also be used as a spread on toast (used kind of like peanut butter). 9. I would skip dessert and get their gelato (they spell it "helado" - and prounounced just like it spells). It is usually VERY inexpensive and the smallest cone ($1-3 US) includes TWO flavors. I learned quickly that the first flavor you say will be in the cone and the second flavor you choose will be on top, so your first choice flavor portion will be more - so make sure you say your favorite flavor first. One flavor you MUST try is their "Super Sabayon" - it is a custardy liquor that is rather strong, so baba should be careful. I have provided two of my favorite heladerias in the listing below (you should make it to both). 10. Water should be okay to drink - BUT their bottled water is SO cheap that I usually just got mineral water at restaurants. You can order "agua sin gas" (water without gas) or "agua con gas" (water with gas). A lot of restaurants (especially at dinner) include a wine - but I always asked to substitute mineral water because I don't drink alcohol. Here is the format for my restaurant listing: Restaurant Name (Neighborhood) Address (or website). Price in US$ per person including tax and tip, and usually includes at least two courses each (ie. soup/salad/appetizer and entree). Description Palermo: This neighborhood is farthest from the City Center, but easily accessible by taxi or bus (if you can figure out the system). There are two sections - Viejo ("old") and Hollywood. I would suggest going during the day - the night is safe, but it's mostly young party crowd. The restaurants are VERY good and rather cheap - but VERY crowded later at night. It's a popular "yuppie" hangout with trendy locals. The neighborhood offers lots of little shops and boutiques - so I would recommend doing this during the day and having lunch at one of the places below: Olsen (Palermo) Gorriti 5870 Lunch: $8-12 Dinner: $17-30 VERY good Swedish food - also very nice outdoor eating area. The food is VERY good and rather inexpensive for lunch. It's kind of hidden and tucked away, but definitely worth a visit... highly recommended. I recommend their beef/venison, which I had and it is VERY good. The lunch is a set menu and usually comes with a small salad, a starch, and sometimes a small cup of soup. The souffle at night is very good and large. Bar Uriarte (Palermo Viejo) 1572 Buenos Aires (name of the street) http://www.baruriarte.com.ar/uriarte/default.htm Lunch: $10-18 (Entrees are at most $7) This price includes a generously sized appetizer, salad andn entree. I had too much food! Two people could definitely split an appetizer, salad and entree and be full. I would recommend the the bruschetta appetizer (toasted french baguette with various toppings that runs about $2.50) or the rabbit appetizer (two large rabbit legs). For salad - I had a beautiful smoked salmon arugula salad. For entree - I HIGHLY recommend the pork ravioli - it was AMAZINGLY GOOD!!!!!!!!! I can't guarantee that these items are still on the menu - but maybe you could ask the chef to prepare them for you. The desserts here are supposed to be very famous, but I didn't try them. Freud & Fahler (Palermo) Gurruchaga 1750 Lunch $7-9 This is a small restaurant but features pretty good food. $7-9 will get you a salad, entree and drink. It's really nice, and very affordable for lunch. Social Paraiso (Palermo) Honduras 5182 Lunch: $6-9 This is a very inexpensive set-price lunch which includes your choice of soup or salad and an entree. It's small and very quaint. I didn't eat here, but wandered by many times. It is very affordable and the food seemed good. De Olivas y Lustres (Palermo) Gascon 1460 Dinner: $15-25 This dinner place features a 15 course meal for about $18. It's a lot of little food tastings and is quite affordable - it features everything from lamb's tongue, blood pudding to fried olives and a very nice dessert sampling. The restaurant is small and in a rather hidden street - but it has a homey, cute atmosphere. I would highly recommend getting a cab if you want to go. City Center: This is in the heart of city and extremely walkable from your hotel (Embajador). This is where the Obelisk, Opera House, and Casa Rosada (Pink House - their presidential residence) are located... as well as the most busy shopping district (Avenida Florida and Corrientes). There are many small fast-food style eateries if you are looking for something cheap and inexpensive. Chelo (City Center) I forgot the address - but it's on a corner about a block away from the Crowne Plaza Hotel (see Tomo 1 restaurant below) Food Lunch/Dinner $3-8 VERY inexpensive cafe/eaterie - features large salads (very healthy and fiilling), sandwiches as well as larger plates and pizza. It is good and convenient to the City Center - it's right on the main avenue not far from the Hotel Embajador (maybe six blocks). Tomo 1 (City Center) Hotel Panamericano (Crowne Plaza - maybe 7 blocks from Hotel Embajador) http://www.tomo1.com.ar/ingles/default.htm Lunch is less expensive, but dinner can be pricier - about $50 for three courses. This was the nice fine dining restaurant that the two sisters run (very famous). The food is very good, and the view is nice (if you get a window table - it overlooks the opera house) Cafe Tortoni (City Center) http://www.cafetortoni.com.ar/ Food: $5-15 It's the oldest and MOST famous cafe in Argentina - many famous writers and tango singers have frequented this landmark. You should go in and get churros with hot chocolate dip, or coffee. It's kind of pricey - but can be cheap if you limit yourself to an afternoon snack. The atmosphere is very grand (old) and it is a nice place to take a break - especially if it's hot outside. Try the churros and hot chocolate. Puerto Madero: This is the newest part of Buenos Aires and is a city effort to revitalize the river walk. It's kind of like Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica except it's mostly restaurants (and some retail). It's a stretch of about a mile long. The buildings are very modern - usually restaurants/stores on the ground level and condos/lofts above. It's very safe, busy and close to the City Center all day from noon until night - so it's a great option for evening dining. The best thing about this strip is that it is scenic along the river side - featuring the famous "Harp Bridge" - or the Bridge of Women. The restaurants tend to be a little more expensive, but they are very nice and offer a great option for outside dining as you can sit on the riverwalk (very nice). The other side of the riverwalk (you can cross the bridges to check it out) is unexciting - mostly apartment and office buildings and some very very new modern luxury hotels. Cubana Las Lilas (Puerto Madero) http://www.laslilas.com/english.php Lunch/Dinner $12-25 (for salad and steak) This is one of the most famous steakhouses in Buenos Aires - very popular so go early. If it is nice weather, I would highly recommend sitting outside on the deck where you can overlook the river walk. As well, although the prices are a little higher - you an baba should go and split a big steak and a salad (very big salads). That way, you could both have salad and steak and much cheaper - the price is very affordable for steak considering the exchange rate. I like the atmosphere and the break and crackers are good. As well, they give you a VERY nice plate of smoked salmon, vegetables, olives, and cheese to begin your meal - it is refillable and is included in your bill (take advantage of this - you could get full on this alone BUT you should order some food as this is just your "cover"). WELL worth the price. Also, be sure to ask if you can get a small (or half) portion of meat - for instance, I ordered a half portion filet mignon - that cut the price in half. I remember they have a very good beet salad and an avocado salad. Katrine (Puerto Madero) Bulevar Alicia Moreau de Justo 138 Food: Lunch $10-30 (for salad, steak and dessert) This is pricier - but it is very good. It is just a few doors down from Cubana Las Lilas along the riverwalk. If the weather is nice, you should sit on the deck so you can look out on to the riverwalk. It's very nice, elegant white table cloth service. It is more expensive, but very nice. Lunch was served with a very nice cut of salmon pate (included in the cover). Bice (Puerto Madero) Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 192 Food: $? (probably between $10-20) I didn't visit this restaurant - but I heard it is one of the best Italian restaurants in Buenos Aires. It is a world wide chain kind of like Cheesecake Factory/Bravo. I think it's probably more affordable just because it's mostly pastas. Freddo Heladeria (Puerto Madero) I don't know the exact address - but it is along the riverwalk right across from the Bridge of Women (the one that looks like a harp). http://www.freddo.com.ar/ Gelato: $2.50-5 This is right along the riverwalk near the Bridge of Women. It's a pricier gelato place, but very good and worth the extra money. The portions are larger and the selection is rather good. I think it's the second best heladeria in the city (its sister store, Persicco in Recova is better - see below). You MUST try their "Super Sabayon." It's nice to go to lunch at one of the other restaurants along the Puerto Madero and then get gelato here afterward and walk around the riverwalk to exercise a litte for digestion. Recoleta: This is the Beverly Hills are of Buenos Aires. This is as pocket of wealth. There are lots of high-end retail stores and hotels - as well as the famous Recoleta Cemetary (where Evita is buried). It is also where you will find the famous Flower Sculpture (the one that opens with daylight closes up at night). Persicco Heladeria (Recova - western part of Recoleta) Corner of Cerrito 1567 and Avenida Liberatador It's worth a trip - you can probably walk there from the Recoleta Cemetary - and there are some shops around there). http://www.persicco.com (click on "Ingresar," or "Enter") Gelato: $2-6 for GENEROUS scoops. This was my FAVORITE gelato place in all of Buenos Aires. I visited my last FOUR DAYS in Buenos Aires because it was that good. This is also where I bumped into the manager who gave me a whole bucket of gelato for free! Their staff got to know me because I came in everyday and ended up giving me a lot of free ice cream - they're very nice. The most amazing thing is that there are over 80 flavors - I would highly recommend at least getting one scoop of the "Super Sabayon" - it has liquor so baba may want to be careful. It is the sister company of the more popular "Freddo" chain. Very similar. You MUST visit at least once, if not more!!!!!! La Bourgogne (Recoleta) Inside the Palacio Alvear Hotel (the most expensive hotel in Buenos Aires) http://www.alvearpalace.com/1024/ingles/r_bourgogne.htm http://www.relaischateaux.com/en/search-bo...aurant/bondoux/ Dinner: $45-60 This is a very very very very fine dining restaurant - in fact, the best in Buenos Aires. The dinners are expensive, but worth it if you want to treat yourself. My six course meal was $60 US - and included caviar service, a salad with huge prawns, sea bass, rack of lamb and two desserts... The service is wonderful. You need to be dressed up (jackets for men), so it may not be feasible. If you order a la carte, you could probably get out of there for $25-30 per person for just an entree and perhaps sharing an appetizer - if you do, get the seafood salad appetizer (I forgot what it was called), but I think for around $12 you get a VERY generous portion of shellfish, smoked salmon, prawns, oysters, and crab/lobster... very beautiful presentation. This is the ONLY Relais Gourmand restaurant in all of South America. San Telmo: This is a more remote neighborhood which is sort of poorer - so it's probably best avoided late at night. This area is famous for their outdoor antique market and street vendors selling trinkets and other locally made items. It's very crowded during the day, and there are lots of street performers. It's very safe during the day. You can get there by subway at the stop Constitucion. I would recommend spending an afternoon walking about and shopping, then having dinner and then going to the tango show afterward at Viejo Almacen. You will have to get a taxi home, however. La Brigada (San Telmo) 465 Estados Unidos (Spanish for United States) Dinner: $5-12 This is an extremely affordable steakhouse. It gets very crowded at night and is popular with tourists, so go earlier (you'll have to anyway if you go and see the tango show afterward). I remembered that they featured a "steak for two" dinner - I think it was around $12 US TOTAL and was basically a huge plate of two or three different grilled cuts of meat - it was probably big enough to feed three or four people. When I went, I tried a lot of different things - whatever you do, be very careful about ordering because some of their cuts of meat aren't what is described in English on the menu... for instance, I ordered the wild boar chops - and I literally got a fatty rack of ribs with little meat. If you don't get the "dinner for two" - then I would recommend ordering a salad, and then an appetizer - try the lamb tongue which was very good. If you are adventurous, their sweatbreads (baby goats' thymus glands) are good - taste like kidneys but not as tough, very tender and tastes kind of like liver. Or else, it's safest to stick with their beef steaks. El Viejo Almacen (San Telmo) "The Old Warehouse" Tango Show http://www.viejo-almacen.com.ar/english/show.html (you can reserve tickets online - but there may be an additional charge) Tango Show: The website says that it's $40 per person (w/o dinner) and $55 per person (w dinner), but I don't remember my ticket being that expensive. For the extra fifteen dollars, I decided to go to a restaurant and eating... I don't know how the food is at this place - the nice thing is that your meal is on the first floor of this place so you don't have far to go after eating to get to the show. However, the restaurant I ate at (La Brigada) was only a few blocks away and I easily got to the show without having to hurry. This is probably one of the most famous tango performances in town. The price includes a free glass of champagne - but I asked for mineral water instead (w/o extra charge). I would recommend going earlier during the day and buying your ticket ahead of time in the ticket office around the corner from the main door. It's in a more remote part of San Telmo, and probably not very safe late at night (don't worry - there will be LOTS of tourists with you after the show). To get home, you can get a taxi - but you can also ask your hotel or the ticket office to buy a shuttle bus ride home - they have shuttles after the show designed to take tourists back to their hotels - they group you by neighborhoods, so make sure you get on the right shuttle. The show lasts about 11/2 hours long. It is VERY cold inside, so make sure you take an extra sweater. La Boca: This neighborhood is one of the oldest (and poorest) in Buenos Aires. It's definitely worth a visit - but it is only safe during the day. It's famous for its multi-coloured buildings. It's kind of like the Carribbean. I think the best way to see this is as a part of a half-day tour that takes you by bus - they'll usually drop you off and give you 30 mins. to wander around on your own - it's very small (a few blocks) and consists mainly of touristy shops (overppriced) and cafes. It's more of an experience than anything. You should go, but remember - I would NOT linger around here after 5:30pm. There aren't any restaurants here to speak of except for the world famous "Patagonia Sur," which I didn't ge to visit.
