ulterior epicure

Pedro. Thanks for the posting. I'd have to agree that Gaig is spectacular - it was my favorite dining experience on a recent trip to Barcelona that included Can Fabes and Ca l'Isidre. Ca l'Isidre was disappointing, to say the least. It was spectacularly expensive and the service, as you noted, was rather lackluster. My kid was "hastily done" too - I suspect, it's not chance... rather the mode... all a part of my disappointment. U.E.

Lainer X. I just got back from Poland a couple of weeks ago (Warsaw). Food is cheap - and you can get good value. However, at the higher end, you won't necessarily get a great deal. I had a *fantastic* meal at Kurt Scheller's in the Hotel Rialto. 12 course dinner for 180 pzl sans wine (50 Euros/$60). The food was good and very creative... and filling. The dining room is small - but a magnificent art deco throwback. The place doesn't get going until around 9ish, so don't be put off by an empty space if you get there early. Restaurancja Tradycja was good - more for atmosphere than food. I had about five courses (sans dessert/wine). Everything I tried was good, but not spectacular... I made it out with about 140 pzl (40Euros/$50). Traditional food - regret the "boar roulade" - overdone, and stuffed full of chestnuts and dates (not my taste). The fish, on the other hand, was excellently prepared. Soups tended to be over-salted. Pates were good, but not outstanding. They do salads well. Desserts looked generous, but I'm not a sweet-tooth. *Note - there are 2 locations - I visited the more "homey" place south of Lizienki Park, "Tradycja" on the website. Delicja Polska was okay- about the same price and menu as Tradycja. They seem to prefer to sauce their entrees on the sweeter side (not a fan, personally). Preferred Tradycja. 99 was a mistake (at least for me). It's a power lunch spot (I had lunch, so I can't speak for dinner). It's trendy and features a more Mediterrannean bent... okay value - but unoriginal. Service is good and atmosphere clean/sleek. This was the only restaurant that I can recall where I wasn't accosted with the ubiquitous second hand smoke that pervades the rest of the city. I think their lunch menu (2 courses) worked out to be around (12Euros/$15). Hope this helped! U.E.

bushey. thanks for the words of encouragement... but you point out exactly what robert brown had earlier appropriately called the "vagaries" of dining in paris - saving up for one really good splurge meal may end in terrible dissapointment - it did for me... u.e.

C. O'Neill. Thanks for the advice - see my update under Corrina's posting. Ciao. U.E.

Corinna & Irish Friends... Update... just returned from my trip to Ireland. Well, Corinna, I wished I had heeded your advice about Les Freres Jacques - it was good (and good value at 18E for 2-course lunch), but not outstanding... On the other hand - I had a spectacular, but simple 7E salad at Gruel - next door to and owned by the same people who run Mermaid Cafe. Lunch at Patrick Guilbaud's was outstanding, but expensive. At 33E for 2-course lunch, I was definitely full and satisfied. The service was superb, and very courteous (especially given my poor treatment in Paris, subsequently). Will hopefully post full reports and pictures on my blog soon. Ciao. U.E.

moby p. well... for me, it's more a sense of regret... i guess i blame myself for making the wrong decision(s) rather than the restaurant. apparently, many are happy with their experiences, as i sensed a lot of repeat players in the dining room... i just wished i could do it all over again and choose another restaurant... sigh... any insight on eating in belgium? i think i'm headed there next... i've been checking out a few - beluga, de karmeliet and oud sluis (in zuid holland). also, any dish on a restaurant in zwolle, netherlands called de librije. i've tried to search the egullet forum - but i'm not so sure i'm a handy sleuth yet... u.e.

sarah w. i'm going to bruges soon and was planning on booking a lunch table at de karmeliet. i was pleased to find your posting that reinforced my interest in the restaurant. i'm assuming you had the lunch menu (3-courses)... do you remember the price in euros. thanks! u.e.

yeah... i actually want to kick myself - i walked by grand vefour on my way to le cinq... i made the mistake of judging the "book by the cover" - it didn't look so impressive - but the menu did seem quite a good value... i tend to find that restaurants in hotels usually are more generous - because they aren't usually out to make a penny on their own - as they are subsidized by the hotel to attract guests... but apparently, this ISN'T the case at le cinq. to say the least, i'm really REALLY disappointed and regret my decision to visit le cinq.

commentary on vinobiondi's post #48. re: portion sizes. at le cinq - that was certainly the case... my five course tasting had just as much, if not a little less (?) food than would have shown up if i had stuck with three courses. i went for lunch... so i deviated from the 75E 3-course set menu and went for the 120E "decouverte" menu - which featured: amuse: buttery brioche sandwiching garlic sautee spinach (literally the size of a u.s. quarter). *also included with the 3-course 1. chestnuts and truffle * 3-course menu got an appetizer of two cubes of tuna sashimi in ginger broth. 2. frog legs (4 small) with sunchokes 3. 3 (overly done) sea scallops with lentils 4. choice of either pigeon with cabbage OR veal in milk sauce 5. pre-dessert of vanilla cream with guava jelly, diced apples and crumble * included in the 3-course menu 6. columbian coffee souffle tart with cocao ice cream. the souffle was terribly undercooked - the center collapsed into a very liquidy soup... terrible! the 3-course dessert options (there were three, i think), looked much more appetizing and well done. 7. mignardises carte - a variety of the usual chocolates and sweets * also included on the 3-course. i don't necessarily think that my five-course tasting featured higher quality ingredients, nor any more food... it just cost 45E more. i felt like such the fool. i may be missing out on some "culinary" secret... but i wasn't impressed... u.e.

moby p... because i was stupid and forgot your earlier comment on the "delphic" criticism... ahhh, 120 euros down the tube - with horrible service and horribly pedestrian food. le cinq has to be one of the worst experiences i've EVER had... more later... promise to post. u.e.

... so... I'm back. I'm exhausted and promise to post more (in depth) later. The upshot of my visit: Le Cinq: EXTREMELY disappointing. RUDE service. POOR VALUE for the price. Carre des Feuillants: EXCELLENT food. Good value. Cold, but efficient service. More later. U.E.

fresh_a. planning to go to jamin next week... should i not? has it been sold? do tell! u.e.

re: table de j.r. .......and????

hey! what a find! i was just about to go to l'arnsburg and stumbled onto your posting.... un grand problem - je suis sans auto... i have to rely solely on train and foot - is it still doable? would love some advice... ciao. u.e.

Hey everyone. I'm assuming jackets are required (even for le dejeuner) at any of the two/three starred establishments (Le Meurice and Carre des Feuillants)? U.E.

Moby P. Could you clarify the last sentence of your last posting? I'm a little confused by it... Also, are you on "the Continent?" I'm finding it very refreshing that I'm getting responses from you during my daytime! Thanks for all the advice... I'm really tempted to visit Le Bristol after investigating it a bit more... the only thing is, I'm terribly uninformed on the chef at all the top Parisian (ie. starred) restaurants... Oh, one more thing - any news/personal experience with Apicius? I've heard "grand" things about it from all. Ciao. U.E.

robert brown. thanks for the insight... i have not been to taillevant or french laundry. i do not consider myself "timid" when it comes to eating. as for a la carte v. tasting menu, i'm undecided. while the tasting menu often offers a good value, it really (in my opinion) depends on how the menu looks. the biggest problem for me is that a lot of menus stand on pretense, and thus do not accurately describe what is actually presented... u.e.

Gasp! Ohmygosh!! I have only gotten to the first picture and my mouth is agape... I don't even want to know (okay, I do) the price tag on this meal... I'm sure it's WAY out of my budget.... at least for this trip... any insight MobyP on Carre des Feuillants, Table de J.R.? Any other exciting (mid-range/affordable) places to visit? Cheers. U.E.

Great timing! I'm off to Dublin and Cork and I just posted a query - but found this string... any updates? Particularly, about P.Guilbaud's, Thornton's, Mermaid Cafe, or Les Freres Jacques? Would appreciate any reviews/price points possible. Cheers. U.E.

Hey EGulleters... I'm travelling to Dublin, Cork, and possibly Killarney this week. Need quick advice/references to great Irish culinary finds without hurting my wallet too too much (I'm planning to splurge in Paris later next week). So far, I have reservations at Patrick Guillbaud in Dublin and am considering also a visit to either the Mermaid Cafe or Les Freres Jacques (I know, it's not Irish). I haven't a clue as to Cork (I'll be in the city, but keen on venturing outside)... or Killarney - if I go. Any suggestions? Reviews of the restaurants I've listed? Also, does anyone have any insight on either L'Ecrivain or Thornton's - as I may be persuaded to sub one of those in for P.Guillbaud. Cheers U.E.

hey all. just got back from warsaw. i'd like to pick up this string again, as i have changed my plans and will be in paris next week. anyone have any advice, insight, references to strings on egullet/elsewhere about the lunch menus at any of the following?: 1. ledoyen 2. le grand vefour 3. lucas carton 4. relais louis xiii 5. carre des feuillants would greatly appreciate it!! best. u.e.

To all: Initial update: Ca l'Isidre was a miserable disaster of a meal. Gaig, on the otherhand, as others on this site have described great experiences, was 'transcendent!' For tomorrow I think I´ve decided to go to Can Fabes and abandon my reservations at Abac... anyone object? U.E.

Bux and Carlsbad. Thanks for parting your culinary wisdom. Yes, i would like to have a meal (or meals) a three-star Parisian establishment b/c I have, albeit rapidly, built up an appreciation and experience at starred restaurants (all around Europe). I have, however, yet to experience any starred restaurant in the whole of France... I'm sure that says a lot... I do read forums, articles, books, publications and online reviews/discourses regularly (more than I should) about the institution of fine dining and the Michelin system... however, I'm always thrilled to read more. Any suggestions. I think you both have given some great advice - something for me to mull over in the weeks before I go! For now, (Bux, I think you'll recognize me from the "Barcelona and Environs" forum), I am off to Barcelona - in which case, if I do decide Can Fabes, it will be my first 3-star experience. Looking forward to hearing more from you when I return! Ciao. U.E.

Silly and Bux (and all contributing members). I thank you so very much for your input and insight. I'm sure I will have a memorable experience being in Barcelona itself and environs that the food could only be an added plus! I will definitely give a report when I return. But, for now, this is what I have planned (where I have reservations): Friday dinner (tonight): Ca L'Isidre Saturday lunch: Gaig (couldn't get in any other night). Saturday dinner:? (something simpler/lighter) and Espai Sucre Sunday lunch: Either C. Fabes or L'Esguard Sunday dinner?: (something simple/light, or not at all depending on lunch). Monday lunch:? Probably graze through La Boqueria? Monday dinner: Abac. Thanks all - hopefully, someone will cancel at El Bulli on a whim for Sunday (the last night of this year's El Bulli season) night and I'll be able to squeeze in - if so, I'll let y'all know! Ciao. U.E.

Silly. Thanks for your advice - and yes, you're right, L'Esguard is kinda tucked away - which could be a fantastic, intimate sort of adventure... gosh, I'm really agonizing over whether to fulfill my reservation at Can Fabes or at L'Esguard... too bad I don't have time for both. The menus are about comparably priced... who, in your opinion, will I see more creative things from? I see from the L'Esguard website that their menu looks pretty good (80Eu for the mid-menu and double for the "gold"). Can Fabes, on the other hand, has refused to update its online menu since 2003!! I can't believe that - I would expect more from a three star establishment. Well, I leave in the morning (I'm in Europe) for Barcelona - any last minute weigh-ins to break the tie would be greatly appreciated! Ciao. U.E.