ronnie_suburban

In case anyone missed this last week, Chicago Magazine's Dish reported that The Shanghai Club is dead; at least in its recently-planned space at the former Biggs mansion: I wonder if the project is completely dead or just dead in that space. =R=

Actually, this brings up a good point (or, rather a bad point ) for me. I'm happy that Alinea is evolving and growing. But I'm frustrated that I'm missing out on so many of the wonderful dishes that are served now but will be dropped soon in the name of progress. I absolutely understand the need for ChefG and staff to keep everything fresh, pushing the frontiers and all that. I just feel that I'm watching from the sidelines. Seeing the evolution of elbulli (and knowing I have scant chance of getting reservations there) is frustrating, but seeing the same sort of creativity happening within a day's drive from here (North-East Ohio) is all the more exasperating. I pop in and out of Chicago on business, always on short notice. I'm going to set aside some time for me to travel there for my own purposes. Dammit. ← I know what you mean. I still think about Black Truffle Explosion -- which ChefG served at Trio -- at least once a week. =R=

We had a chance to "take the Tour" for second time last Friday and I too thought it was even better than our first time through. Most of the dishes had either been modified or replaced outright. While I missed a few of the earlier items which no longer appeared on the Tour (frog legs and morels, broccoli stem), I appreciated the fact that the menu was fresh again after just a few months. This makes me happy because frequent repeat dining at Alinea will be even more enjoyable if the menu continues to evolve with such frequency. Some of the highlight courses for us were the amuse of Cucumber which was a thin shaving of cucumber rolled up into a loose conical spiral and filled with mango puree. Here I was surprised by the combination of flavors, which really worked for me. The contrast in textures was also satisfying. Sour Cream had been slightly re-worked and improved. It's still the same basic concept with the frozen disc of sour cream, smoked salmon and sorrell. But the new incarnation features a delicate sprig of wild sorrell (as opposed to a larger and slighter tougher leaf of cultivated sorrell in the original) and a pink peppercorn. As the sour cream melts in your mouth, the flavors develop wonderfully but now, the light chew of the sorrell at the end matches better with the rest of the components are they are presented. The refinement here was inspired. The Tomato course, aka Chewy Balsamic, was delicious and uniquely so. On a spoon, which is then positioned in a white china bowl, are placed a small tan square (the chewy balsamic), along with tiny little balls of tomato, nectarine and arugula. Again, the combination of flavors was fantastic and the textures were a gas. Long after the tomato, nectarine and arugula were gone I was still chewing on the tender little square of balsamic. Slowly it disappeared in my mouth -- like a savory caramel which felt like it was lasting forever. The sweet and tangy balsamic flavor that little square carried was absolutely amazing. Chef Achatz tells me that it's actually based on mochi dough. I absolutely loved this dish. The dish which used to be Turbot in Eggless Custard with Shellfish and Hyacinth Blossom Vapor is now Striped Bass in Eggless Custard with Shellfish and Rose Petal Vapor. It may be even better. That's somewhat irrelevant because it's still one of the best dishes on the Tour. Signature dish? It could be; it should be. There were so many other great courses but I just don't have the time to detail them all here, so I'll just breeze through a few of my favorites . . . the Hearts of Palm quintet is still fantastic and I'm pretty sure unchanged from its original inception . . . Octopus with beans, eggplant and soy was fantastic . . . Lamb with dijon, lemon and California laurel branch (the laurel branch serving as the "handle" upon which the course is served) was a delightful nugget of savory tempura goodness . . . Beef with flavors of A-1 has been given a refined plating which allows for a greate appreciation of the diverse flavor elements. It remains one of the strongest dishes on the Tour . . . Cherry Ice is a tart and sweet frozen bite that will bring you back to popsicles and cherry pie . . . Snap Peas with tofu, pillow of lavendar air and (Virginia) ham was just one of those great Achatz dishes. The combination of flavors -- one chefg has featured before at Trio -- is amazing, with the nicely-browned ham complimenting the peas as only ham can do. As you eat the dish, you also breath in sweet lavendar air, which is being "leaked" by the pillow upon which the plate sits. Amazingly, the lavendar air matches perfectly with the flavors of the dish. A fun adventure . . . Lobster with chanterelles and ravioli of coconut powder was tasty and rich . . . The Squab with watermelon, foie gras and black licorice was another one of those combinations that I would have never imagine working, yet it works. This was a dish that just blew me away . . . The Bison with truffle, pistachio and sweet spice was, I think, better than the Bison "Bong" which appeared on the original Tour. Here, the dish contains the cap of the Bison. It was just perfection . . . Bacon with butterscotch, apple and thyme was still fantastic and had also undergone some minor refinements . . . Maytag Blue with wild celery walnut milk and red wine was a great take on the traditional cheese course. It contains some frozen elements and the dish unfolds as it melts in your mouth . . . Corn with honey, tonka bean and hyssop was a perfect savory/sweet dish which was part of the multi-course transition from savory to sweet in the last part of the Tour . . . Verbena with buckwheat, lime and buttermilk was actually a buckwheat beignet filled with verbena and lime. I'm assuming that the buttermilk was part of the beignet batter, but I'm not certain . . . Raspberries with red bell pepper, milk curd and rose was great because again it featured an unlikely combination of flavors which all worked togethger. I loved the toasted bell pepper seeds which tasted a bit like pumpkin seeds . . . Liquid Chocolate was sublime; a study in flavors and textures. It was a serious and satisfying course . . . Sponge Cake with sour cherry and vanilla fragrance is still glorious and inspired. I could still smell the vanilla on my hands when I got home and it was a nice reminder of the meal. A couple other thoughts: Milkweed pod was one of those things where I was really appreciative for the opportunity to try it but I didn't particularly love it. It was very fresh -- dense and green-tasting. Actually the flavor wasn't bad or unpleasant but a little bland. It was similar in flavor and texture to a raw, mild brussel sprout. I was surprised because I really could not taste the green tea, salt or sugar even though I could see them on the pod itself. I gather this means that milkweed pods have a relatively strong flavor. I don't mean to disappoint anyone but with all the recent talk here about grape peeling, it's worth mentioning that PB&J is no longer on the menu. It was amusing that Chef Achatz mentioned to us that things were now "under control" relative to how they were on our first visit back on May 7. Fact is, from the vantage point of the dining room -- and even our glimpses into the kitchen -- it felt exactly the same. That's a testament to this seasoned crew which simply never lets you see them sweat. The one question I had about Alinea before it opened was whether it could consistently attract repeat diners. Since the Tour is a fairly theatrical experience I wondered if many would go back to see the same play again -- or eat the exact same food again. With the amount of new dishes, revisions and seasonal adjustments we experienced on the Tour last week, just 3 months into Alinea's life, the question has been answered for me. This isn't a mere play, it's an ever-evolving culinary adventure. =R=

100% correct, sir! I couldn't have said it better myself =R=

August 3, 2005... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Where chefs shop...James P. DeWan interviews a bunch of local chefs and gets some surprising -- and not so surprising -- answers about where they shop. Emperor of wine?...Bill Daley changes gears this week and reviews the reviewer rather than the grapes, as he explores the world of wine guru Robert Parker. We're ready: Bring on the tomatoes!...James P. Dewan details concasse and how mastering the technique can help us take full advantage of the season's bounty. Basil...Renee Enna with a useful guide. Cooking with a new look...Kelly Aiglon with a brief feature about the south side's Washburne Culinary Institute. Media watch...Robin Mather Jenkins rounds up the week's highlights. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Americans have cornered Tuscan teaching market...Maureen Jenkins discovers that many of the most noted cooking schools in Italy are actually run by Americans. Small cookbook packs plenty...Margaret Maples reviews Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks by Linda Carucci. From Asian to wine, it's learning time...a fairly thorough round-up of food and wine classes taking place in the Chicago area. School teaches Southwestern food with various waves of heat...Brenda Warner Rotzoll sits in on a class at the Santa Fe School of Cooking in Santa Fe, NM. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk with her weekly preview of the area's upcoming food events which includes happenings at Burhops Wilmette, Cafe Matou, Carlos', Adelle's and 10 Pin Bowling Lounge. Le Titi puts focus on organic foods, wines...Denise I. O'Neal previews an upcoming event at Le Titi de Paris in Arlington Heights. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: School bells ringing for former Le Titi owner Pierre Pollin...food editor Deborah Pankey reports on how chef Pierre Pollin, former owner of Le Titi de Paris, is staying busy in his retirement. C'mon baby, light our fire...Laura Bianchi visits with Glenview firefighter Jeff Klauke, who is known for his fiery firehouse cuisine. Rise and shine...Deborah Pankey provides some pointers on how best to enjoy breakfast, al fresco. ===== And last, but certainly not least, in this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish...Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby report on a fairly major shake-up at 4-month-old Blue Water Grill, from which chef Dirk Flanigan and pastry chef Elissa Narow have departed. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you.

I loved the Iceland episode. I thought it was vintage Bourdain at his snarky, charming and endearing best. There were a few negative comments (about the events he attended) that he might like to have back but still, his sincere appreciation of the place come through loud and clear. Can Tony garner another audience; one that isn't necessarily aware of his "previous" career? After seeing the Iceland episode, I really think so. What a trooper he was to eat that fermented shark the second time around. I loved his on-camera honesty about the foods he tried and the events he attended. I don't want to watch a travel show where the host is insincerely appreciative of the things he experiences just for the sake of politeness or worse, political correctness. If it sucked, say it sucked. Tony's open-minded enough that I can accept such comments from him. Frankly, that was refreshing. Watching the Paris episode, I felt a bit let down because I felt it didn't focus enough on the food. That was "my bad" based on my erroneous expectation. The Iceland episode entertained and educated me -- and also made me realize that this is really a whole new thing from Tony. And I think he is the perfect man for the job. I can't wait to see the NJ episode next week and the rest of the series, as well. =R=

That's all I could find of it, those few questions. I even searched the PPV archives. Glad you enjoyed it =R=

Some interesting comments about the show (and a few other topics) from Ramsay himself appeared in yesterday's Chicago Sun-Times: =R=

I absolutely agree. Luck of the draw is one thing -- as Michael did have the first pick -- but Ralph chose the 3 weakest staff members available. As for Elsie being chosen so late, it made sense to me because, even though her sensibilities were strong, she'd been weak on the line in previous challenges (as Ralph pointed out). Still, he would have been better off with her on his side than any of the 3 he did choose. =R=

Hi Kris, It's a chain; pretty sure it's a national one. There's an outpost very near my house in north-suburban Chicago but I've never been. Here are links to a couple other discussions about it: PF Chang's, West New York, NJ PF Chang's China Bistro, That was... weird and here is a link to their web site: P.F. Chang's =R=

RE: Morimoto vs. Sanchez, a tie?!?! I don't think an ICA battle should ever end in a tie. What an embarrassing case of poor planning. There should be contingency plans in place for such occasions or the show ends up being a nearly complete waste of time. At the very least in a tie situation, whoever scores higher for taste should be declared the winner. =R=

Possibly in New Orleans, but you make a good point. =R=

I don't remember the baked feta coming with a sauce, but -- especially given what George said above -- it wouldn't surprise me if it had been served that way at some point in the past. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the meal, midwesterner. That "Bill Kurtis" beef is really an attraction of its own and should not be missed. =R=

Can't wait to hear about your experience. We were just there last Friday and the place is still chugging along. Service was as sharp as ever and the food was fantastic. In spite of the season, I opted for the braised short rib (special) which was among the best I've ever had. I figured that since I wasn't doing any braising this time of year, it'd be a nice change of pace. It was far beyond that . . . so happy I ordered it. Appetizers were also satisfying. We order the grilled veggie pizza, the (re-worked but still delicious) crab cake and the baked feta with banana peppers. The 4 of us snarfed them down rapidly. Wife had the delectably tender halibut served with fingerling potatoes and opiatic broccoli puree. BIL had the always-delicious home-made italian sausages with polenta and arugula. SIL had the vegetable struedel, which was sublime. For dessert we shared the baked pear in almond cake which was as good as I remember it being and a warm slice of blueberry pie a la mode. It was just a near-perfect dinner; nothing fancy, but a really satisfying and well-prepared meal which made us so happy. Being able to take out-of-towners there was especially fun because it's so nearby and so consistent. PGC is definitely a go-to when you absolutely want to be sure that your meal and your patronage won't be taken for granted. Every plate there says "we care." Who says that location is cursed?! =R=

Quality work, as usual, woodburner. It takes talent and dedication to turn out flats like that. Nicely done. Thanks also, for sharing those mouth-watering pics. I also appreciate the mini tutorial about the rub methodology. Very interesting stuff. =R=

Congrats, Chef! You must be feeling great about now. I don't blame you for tooting your own horn. Those are some nice honors you and your crew have received. Thanks for the link, btw. =R=

Woo Hoo! Utah is in the the house! =R=

July 27, 2005... From today's Chicago Tribune - Good Eating section: Bowls of flavors...the eGullet Society's own Monica Bhide reports on the glorious versatility of chutneys. Any night can be Venetian Night...As we approach Venetian Night, Bill Daley checks in with great information about wines from Veneto. Tasting notes are included. A symphony of flavors...Renee Enna reviews Noteworthy Two: A Recipe Collection from the Ravinia Festival. Zucchini flowers...a useful guide for buying, storing and using them. Herold Bohemian Black Lager and Wheat Lager...Jeff Boda continues his Beer of the Month series with review of these newly-available Czech brews. ===== From today's Chicago Sun Times - Food section: Iced tea flows...Sandy Thorn Clark with the 411 on this favored summer beverage. Grilling guru's tools of the trade...Sandy Thorn Clark checks in with Steven Raichlen as his empire grows to include a line of retail grilling products. Liquid calories flow too easily...In contrast to Sandy Thorn Clark's iced tea feature, food editor Sue Ontiveros explains why big beverages are bad for you as she discovers that some of them actually contain calories. Coco Pazzo mixes menu with variety...Denise I. O'Neal reports on chef Tony Priolo's new menu as well as special programs taking place at Vermilion and The Ritz Carlton. Tastings around town...Celeste Busk previews the week's events in food including happenings at Roy's Sushisamba Rio, Gridley's Grill of Long Grove and Viand. ===== From today's Daily Herald - Food section: Healthful diet gives her strength...Laura Bianchi reports on how one local woman copes with lyme disease through her dietary regimen. Food and wine classes...a comprehensive listing of upcoming area food events, tastings and classes; broken out by day. ===== And last, but certainly not least, in this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish...Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby indirectly deliver the news that the much anticipated Shanghai Club, from Arun Sampanthavivat, is officially dead and will not open in the former Bigg's mansion. ===== =R= <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some Chicago media outlets, which do not 'go to press' on Wednesday mornings, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you.

Sounds like it's just north, up the road from Norshore Meats -- another solid butchery. I'll definitely check this out next week when I'm back in the neighborhood. Thanks. =R=

From the story linked above: =R=

Yes, 1.5 years is a looong time (more than a lifetime, in some cases) in the restaurant world. =R=

I'm sure that it's a very sad day for locals and regulars alike. Although, it appears that The Maisonette will re-open in some form very soon. From the article linked above: =R=

Glad to hear you liked it, Dick. Where exactly is Zier's? I'd love to try it out. =R=

I think the negative opinions stated upthread -- which are backed up with specific examples -- are perfectly valid. The fact that the thread was bumped recently is a reasonable trigger for members to post on it. Perhaps they may have otherwise not bothered with it or not even known about the thread. It's also reasonable to suppose that the effusive praise in Mr. Vettel's recent review was in such contrast to a given member's experience at Avenues, that the review itself inspired that member's post. I don't think we should have any problem with that around here. While I haven't seen many of them, I have seen some negative comments about Avenues . . . and Charlie Trotter's and Alinea, etc. Let's face it, no restaurant is going to be loved 100% across the board. Chef Bowles is enjoying now only a small portion of the success he is likely to achieve over the course of his career (the guy's only 28 years old!!). And, as successful as he is destined to become, there will always be some who simply do not care for his work. Such is life and the nature of opinions. Let's please try to appreciate the diversity of opinions presented on this forum instead of pointing fingers at each other over them. Thanks, =R=

I know it's been alluded to upthread, but I find the difference in Ramsay's behavior on this show and his behavior on Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares to be striking. So much so, that it almost feels like he's acting a bit on HK. On RKN, he's still a straight shooter but the apparently stagey and over-the-top verbally abusively behavior -- the playing to the camera -- is not to be found. Instead, he's personable, professional and wise. Perhaps this variation is due to the format differences between the 2 shows. The warm comments he made on HK about Jimmy and Elsie as they departed mirror more closely the general tone of RKN. To me HK is one reality show at least where it feels like the contestants are being true to themselves and the host isn't necessarily doing the same thing. In the spirit of tv game shows, I feel like asking if the "real Gordon Ramsay will please stand up." =R=