chefzadi

Lucy- It's a pleasure for me to go back home with you. Your photographs of the produce are still life's of the terroir. They capture the golden light and textured shadows of Lyon.

I agree completely with that. I was wondering about Hassan's thoughts on semolina couscous and how it was developed. He is a very well educated man and he keeps up on the history of the Kabylie and the Amazigh, much more than I will ever know.

The Kabyle Me: I have another question. Do Berbers (excuse my use of the term) use cinnamon or nutmeg in savory dishes? My friend Hassan (who is Imazighen from Kabylie): The cooking of the Djurdjura mountains would not be much different from the cooking of the Setif mountains. The name Kabylie comes from Arabic "Al Qabayel" ("tribes"), but it is also called "Tamurt Idurar" (Land of Mountains) or "Tamurt Leqvayel" (Land of Kabyles). It is part of the Atlas mountains. Kabylie spans several wilayas of Algeria: Tizi Ouzou and Bgayet, Bouira and Bordj Bou Arreridj, and parts of M'Sila, Jijel, Boumerdes, and Setif. Tighrifin is a Amazigh flat bread. Amazigh sweets might include cinnamon, nutmeg or cardamon . The fine semolina couscous is preferred here, along with grains such as barley. The delicate steamed couscous with vegetables would be found here as well. Hassan would like to make it very clear the Berbers invented the couscousier. I will have to ask him about the semolina couscous.

Some photos of Setif here and here. The provinces of Algeria are called Wilaya. The Ancient Roman's called the city Sitifis when they founded it in the 1st century AD. But the mountain people of Algeria were probably already there and we are still there making native textiles. Some of you may be surprised by how European Setif looks. That's because the French built the modern parts of it on top of Ancient Roman ruins. There is a amusement park in the middle of town next to the ruins of a Byzantine fortress. So in this big city (I think second in size to Algiers, off the top of my head of course I will be more accurate in my book, but I'm writing as I'm thinking now), where is the family farm I mentioned before? It's on the outskirts. My relatives live in both the city and the country. What is special or different about Setifienne cooking from the rest of Algeria? Well the mountaion people of the region often times don't use any spices in their savory dishes. Garlic is often used in modest amounts as well. If we do add spices to a "tajine" it will never be cinnamon. The prefered semolina couscous is very fine, never the medium or the coarse. Barley couscous can also be found, but my family rarely made this type. This is not the region to find robust, spicy Algerian food. The cooking here is simpler and very delicate or rustic. The flatbread of choice is Kesra made from Semolina, salt and water. They are also called Bouzgene, I think. This bread can be eaten plain or spread with a red pepper relish. The "tajines" here often times mix chicken, lamb and beef all together. Zuchinni, carrots and turnips seem to find there way into most of them. Other dishes from the region Ghraif, Chorba Arrassi, Berboucha, Kh'faf, M'bardja and Chekhchoukha are local favorites. I will move on to the nearby Kabyle next. I am hoping some of my Algerian friends will accept my invitation to visit here. Many of them are better writers than I am and of course they have stories of their own to tell. EDIT: Cumin is a treasured spice for savory dishes in this region. Also, you will not find the use of fruits in savory dishes.

One more vote for Lyon. In the city you don't need a car, but if you want to you can rent one to visit the nearby Beaujolais! Beautiful villages and of course vineyards. Of course this will be a weekend trip then, not a one day one.

What are sour cherries? I assume that they are sour in flavor. The French black cherries are very sweet.

Geography and history have given Algeria more variety than it's North African neighbors: Morocco, Tunisia and Libya. Our southern Saharan neighbors include Mauritania, Mali, Niger and it barely kisses Western Sahara. There are few other parts of the world where the Ancient and the new co-exist the way it does in North Africa. There are tribes that live essentially the same way as their ancestors did. To give some reference to the time, think of the Biblical times and before. The dress and customs have changed little. If I can choose a beginning it is Carthage and the Berbers, then The Roman era, the Vandals and Byzantines (there are still Byzantine and Roman ruins in Setif), The Arabs, The Spanish, The Ottomans, The French and other Europeans. This is where some of the pain in our music comes from that Suvir Saran so succinctly stated. But from pain comes songs that sooth us and heal us. And from this conflict, rupture and pain was born a grand cuisine with rich layers and deceptive veils. For what is Algerian cuisine when it is so much? So I will start with the simple in my next post. Setif and the Kabyle.

First I have two disclaimers. 1. I cannot reproduce too many recipes from the cookbook that I’m working on. Just so you know that it’s not because I am stingy or secretive about it I will explain the reasons. I have been in contact with a few literary agents (one is well known) who have told me that they want to sign me when I build a stronger platform of public appearances. (I don’t quite understand this, because with my contacts I wouldn’t have trouble building a lot of public appearances once I have a published cookbook. Without one, I end up teaching cooking classes which is fine. But you know what I mean.). I’m also considering taking it directly to publishers. I’m not sure how much pre-publishing is a acceptable. 2. As some of you know I am a little culturally “confused.” But I will explain it a little more here. I was born in France to Algerian parents. Our relatives still maintain the family farm in Setif. Setif is very close to the Kabyle a Berber stronghold. The Berbers don’t call themselves Berbers of course, only when they are trying to explain to someone who doesn’t know what Amazigh means. My family refers to themselves as Arabs, but in fact we are culturally and ethnically Berber as well. I have blond haired, light skin and green eyed relatives and Setif cooking is not far off from Kabyle style. So I am a Kabylie in ways that I do not know exactly how to define, but Arabs from other parts of Algeria notice this fairly quickly and point it out to me (very casually and politely). So you see I am very confused or woven like a spider web. I will try discuss Algerian cookery somewhat regionally, but I want to focuse more on cooking and actual dishes. Also I am not a historian, a scholar or an anthropologist. Questions about "authenticity" or "genuineness" aren't always easy for me to answer. I can tell you what my generation of Algerians cook and eat in terms of what we call Algerian food and what our parents and grandparents cooked. I will start with some broad thoughts on Algerian cuisine in my next post. Then move on to regions.

You must be punished in some way for this error. Although I would be interested in that as well. In the India forum there is a thread on Muslim influences (If I recall correctly).

Simple salt and pepper seasoning is my favorite. It's probably the most common Algerian version. But the marinaded versions are cooked too. Most times it's not even marinaded really, the mixtures are rubbed in or coated just before cooking. And yes, it's best not "mess around with it" on the grill.

I'm interested.

My wife and I drink wine daily. Sometimes two glasses each or sometimes more spread out the evening with food or not. When we have dinner with our French friends we don't move from the table for hours. I don't count how many glasses everyone has, but we have spent long afternoons with frineds going into long evenings, drinking apertifs, different wines for different courses, digetifs, one for the road (wife is the designated driver). Other occassions it's a few bottles of Vin du Pays on the table. I don't recall ever running out of wine. French people serve wine at children's dinner parties (not for the kids) but for the parent's who are chaperoning. At the French school my 6 year old attends, wine is served during PA meetings (again not for the kids, for the parents). There is a French children's character that is shown visiting a winery and drinking wine on it's website. Can anyone even imagine Mickey Mouse or Barney visiting a winery? Totally different cultural attitudes toward wine.

This is true in the States. But not so in France. Anyway, I am hoping to change this very soon! Starting here immediatly and with my cookbook later on. I will begin posting more in depth soon.

I just found this thread! I comb through all the threads in this forum once and I missed this one. How I don't know. Yes, fresh A! We do have far more variety, it's due to geography and history.

The last time I made Clafoutis was with the yellow cherries we get in So Cal. They were much sweeter than the bing cherries. I pitted them, obviously no discoloration from bleeding. Put then again, there wasn't the pretty contrast of dark cherries and the light colored batter. I also added ground almonds. So this is another option.

This is the LCB Paris site. I don't know first hand if there is a restaurant at the school. It only makes sense that they would, it's part of the teaching/learning process. You can count on excellent kitchen hygeine as well. Also a bit off topic Hows that for the French culinary influence?

Information on horsemeat American "free range" horsemeat is apparently coveted. I've had horsemeat in France, but it was more common for my parent's generation. So I don't know that much about it. I don't recall it being around that much. There's a thread in the French forum about it.

Chromedome- I'm blown away by your thoughtful and supportive words. Interesting that you should mention insider/outsider. Albert Camus is my favorite writer. He is the opposite of me in one way, born in Algeria to a French father (I'm not sure where his mom is from, French too or other European). But I am the same as him in another way. My recipes are a bit like the Myth of Sysphus. Do you think that there is a market for such a cookbook?

I was about too. I don't eat pork. I'm not strict about it. I'm a French chef/instructor. I just don't eat it, but I've cooked it and teach how to cook it. (how's that for a contradiction!). I've had problems in the past with being lied too about pork in dishes at restaurants. I prefer to draw my own hypocritical lines. I don't appreciate being lied too. I'll just order something else.

I just remembered... In Algeria they are also called H'rissa. 500 g ground almonds 250 g sugar ½ cup of water 1 stick butter orange flower water Food dye (red and green) Combine the water, sugar, and orange flower water in a saucepan over low heat untill a syrup consistency develops, add the ground almonds while constantly mixing with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat when mixture does not stick to the bottom and sides of the pan. Place the almond paste into a bowl, add the butter. blend well and divide into thirds. Tint one in red, one green and leave last natural. This is basically cooked marzipan.

cassava? palm?

Franglish to English. Two possibilities. "Semi-dried tomato (sundried or oven dried?) and tomato confit are commonly used interchangeably, they should not be." "Semi-dried tomato and tomato confit are not commonly used interchangeably, they can be."

Too bad that you have to make a fuss to get your point across. If you just say that you are allergic to fish they should respect that right away.

At home I wouldn't bother. The added "benefit" is not worth the trouble. But then again it's not my business to tell anyone how much trouble to go to. But the veal jelly he is talking about that's made from calf's feet is basically gelatin. Gelatin is available in many forms.

Are you sure he wasn't referring to the other F word? His adversary on ICA... I heard he's opening a French Bistro with a French Chef partner. Will he stop the jokes then? I know, I know it's all in good fun. I do have a sense of humour.