reachej

I've had OK, success by cooking the eggs 65 deg., hydrating the yolks in water then pureeing that with lemon juice and the yolks. Then I added the butter to emulsify in a blender, added to the siphon and kept warm. Like I said, OK, but the perfect one that doesn't move. How would the MC work concerning the emulsion?

What about the use of salt the second time, after you add the stock? At the beginning or end?

Anyone have any luck with different hollandaise techniques using the siphon? Like cooking the yolks sous vide, hydrocolloids, etc. I'm looking for a mousse that won't move (like whipped cream, shaving cream, et.) and won't break when warm (obviously). Thanks for any help.

I don't think it's necessary to get into the details of the business arrangement, as you said. I can assure you though that Jean-Georges, myself, and everyone else involved consider JG Shanghai a JG restaurant. A bit farther away is all... Eric

It's not cheap, but an unforgettable experience would be to stay and eat at Olivier Roellinger, Maisons de Bricourt, and do the drive to Mont St. Michel. It's in Cancale. I would recommend staying in the Chateau.

Michelin does not have any guides in Shanghai or elsewhere in Asia, something that few people seem to know in a region that puts a huge importance on Michelin stars. Concerning Sens, the quote should have read something like it being Shanghai's first restaurant "run" by 3 michelin star chefs, not the first 3 star restaurant itself. This was indeed the case, though since the demotion of the Pourcel brothers Montpelier restaurant to 2 stars, it is no longer. The only restaurant in Shanghai run by a 3 star michelin chef at this time is Jean Georges, since the publication of the Michelin guide to New York. Zagat does have a guide though, and it covers Western, Chinese and all other restaurants.

In another thread some folks brought up the idea that NYC is not really on the forefront of modern cuisine, something I would generally agree with. Fat Guy offered an interesting financial hypothesis as to why and said: I don't know enough about Chicago to argue for or against it, perhaps others might. Could there be other reasons as well? Likes and dislikes of New Yorkers? Reasons talented chefs may choose other places?

Could you elaborate on this?

It certainly looks like it to me... The "stinkiness" of "stinky tofu", as far as I can tell, whether fried or otherwise has mostly to do with the stinkiness of the tofu you start out with, not how it's prepared necessarily. The stinkiest I've experienced was in Chang Sha, Hunan, where it is so fermented it is black... Crazy stinky...

Seriously, someone must have been... Maybe a source for a menu? Their website isn't working, I was thinking about going but I'd like to have a little more of a specific idea of what I'm in store for...

Check out the cookbook Land of Plenty by Fuschia Dunlop. It contains recipes and some anecdotes from her experience at the Sichuan culinary school which I believe is in Chengdu. I've heard from several sources that this school is worthwhile, though winter in Chengdu could be a challenge (as with most of the rest of China).

I would not say that the menu at JG Shanghai is geared more to the Asian palate. Indeed, many of the dishes coincide with dishes in NY. That said the differences in ingredients creates a need and opportunity for new dishes. This, of course, varies with the seasons, which are different than the States both in climate and the fact that many products have different seasons altogether. Anyone interested in this type of thing specific to Shanghai need only ask (even better if at the time of making the reservation). If something interesting is available at the time we're more than happy to make sure those interested experience it.

Lemongrass is grown in China and fairly available in various markets. The quality is not quite the same though... As for the real thing and the other ingredients you mentioned they are usually only available through wholesale suppliers. If you PM me your details I could probably help you out. The Parksons (downstairs) on the the corner of Huai Hai Lu and Shaan Xi Lu has some southeast asian fruit from time to time. EJ

For the braised pork in Shanghai, try Xin Ji Shi in Xin Tian Di, or Yuan Yuan. Don't have the address in front of me, but the concierge at any hotel will know it.

If slightly upscale and Hunan is what you're looking for, Guyi is the place in Shanghai. It's listed in Zagat.

FG, does the fact that the lobster on the pipette is an El Bulli dish (except that theirs was a prawn) affect your thinking? I'm not sure I think it's a bad thing, but where do you draw the line? Seems to me you're arguing against that kind of thing.

OK, maybe it's easier to make something different. But to make something different that's at least as good or better, not so easy. If you have the technical skill to recreate something difficult, you probably also know when your creations don't stack up. The problem can be that people gain an understanding of what's exceptional and what isn't before they are able to create things that really are exceptional (and they may never be able). Those people are not ready to be in positions where exceptional creativity is called for, such as chef of a restaurant that touts its "exceptionally creative cuisine." With so much on the line, and pressure to create, the realisation that the inspiration is not there could conceivably lead one down a dark road. Easier then to copy than create. Just a hypothesis.

This is very far from being true IMO. In general, technical proficiency is much easier to achieve than creative inspiration. That's why every 16 year old who gets an electric guitar learns to play Purple Haze (granted, some better than others), but not too many end up being Jimi Hendrix. It's no different for cuisine. Certain aspects of creativity just cannot be taught, replication can be. EJ

Since Fatguy mentioned the molten chocolate cake a while back I thought it might be of interest to note that even though most in the profession are aware that it is an invention of Michel Bras, it also appears to be protected in some way as a registered trademark. If you go to the dessert menu on his website (apologies for insufficient tech ability to post link) you will notice that the word "coulant" is followed by the "R" symbol for registered trademark in 2 places. For those of you participating with a backround in this sort of thing, does this protect the wording? The recipe? Or what? My guess is that it gains him very little other than credit for the invention (which as far as I understand it he deserves). Certainly the concept pertains to the issue at hand. But how?

I recently saw pure tuna fat available for purchase. Does anyone know how this is used in cooking?

Seems appropriate to comment on the website though...Let the guy start "'nother story."

Very true, nothing else is even close. A sewer is WAY better. Incredible that this is food, but it does make a (good) difference.

There are certainly degrees of "getting your act together." I think most who have opened a restaurant would agree that 7 weeks is very quick to be judged in a way that will greatly affect the ability of the restaurant to survive. Especially if the intended standard is to be high... no matter who you are. The idea that once your doors are open you're fair game is in practice, not all that practical.

Akwa and Vadouvan, no one is saying that discussion of the finer points is not useful. I meant only to say the people were starting to draw similar conclusions through different paths. But let's move on... I don't agree with this on a couple of levels. I don't think that any one (chef or not) is excluded from the pursuit of science "by definition." Also, science, it seems to me is practiced all the time with an end point in mind. Scientific research is conducted all the time by folks with an end point in mind. Scientific research in industrial chemical companies being one example, pharmecuticals another, and on and on. This seems to be the question at hand. How do you label these restaurants (WD, Gilt, etc.)? We all seem to have agreed that MG is not an accurate term, even though everyone would understand you if you used it that way. I know this has been addressed in other threads, but Akwa makes very informed observations in this one: Fair enough, and we appreciate this level of understanding, but (Akwa especially), how would youl label it generally for the masses, to promote... Context after all, really does matter in the appreciation of any creative form.

Everyone makes some good points, perhaps this has come down to semantics a bit... no? Vocabulary doesn't always accurately describe reality...