But anchovies don't just add salt, they add murky richness, too - not always particularly fishy, but an almost musty and tongue-coating element. I don't get that from ham, or from chestnuts. Hmmm. ← Umami! The Fifth Taste! Darling of food magazines! Could have been a hit of fish sauce or something. Mushroom powder, soy sauce, or the other things Bon Appétit told me you could use to invoke this most mysterious of tastes. Of course, I love stuff like this: it has some flavor of foo, but there's no foo in it! I'm with you on that one, Eunny...I'd just sit there and try and figure it out, too. Do you know if you can do the tasting menu at the bar?