chromedome

"No till" is very much the plan, yes. I'm currently using plain ol' corrugated under the beds to suppress weeds, but have evaluated other options as well (and will continue to do so). Current plan is to build deeper, more permanent beds as I go, adding manure/compost and soil each year.

To tell the truth, I can't imagine what an appropriate emoji might be. ETA: ...though my current earworm is now one of Jerry Lee Lewis' biggest hits...

Sometimes Twitter still spits out a gem...

I have that book as well. It's one of my favorites; came as a boxed set with the "everything is better with butter' volume.

LOL Not looking to get into it at that level. I'm currently using the waste from the animals to build the soil in my garden, which is not currently in good condition. The year I first dug a garden here (the property's been in my GF's family for several years now, so I've had the use of a patch) I dug over a 4X8 foot bed and hauled away 5 (IIRC) large wheelbarrows of just the larger stones. My frame of mind at that juncture could be characterized by the Brits' idiomatic "Sod this for a lark!" and so I've been using raised beds since. This year I was able to (finally!) budget for a load of topsoil, which in combination with the bunnies' droppings should set me up well for the coming years. The droppings are mixed with scraps of hay that also fall through the cages, so I'll get some grass popping up wherever I use it without composting it first, but I'll live with that. I've got a compost pile started, which hopefully will get hot enough to kill the grass seeds and make it only a transient problem. We hope to add some laying hens to the mix over the next few weeks, and chicken droppings will certainly help heat up the compost. The plan is that next year I'll have a "this year" pile (aged) and a "next year" pile with current droppings. Rabbit droppings can go directly onto the garden, so I can use them even if I run out of compost that first year, but chicken droppings emphatically can't without being composted first. The chickens may indeed get to forage on the patches recently vacated by the outdoor bunnies, but that's as close as I'll get to any kind of formal system. And of course the grandkids will still want to run on the grass in bare feet, so there's a limit to how much manure we want in random spots around the yard.

I've been corrected "off camera," as rabbits apparently are not rodents but lagomorphs. They were at one point classed among the rodents, but that was corrected a century or so ago. The "need to chew" part was quite accurate, mind you. Hat tip to Smithy for the correction, and an article here for those who like to know about these things: https://www.charlotte.providencevets.com/site/blog/2020/12/18/are-rabbits-rodents

Our cost varies. We've gotten some for free, some for $20, some for $30. Some we've traded for. "Meeting the protein needs of my girlfriend" is not entirely accurate. Poultry, fish, dairy (she eats her weight in cheese) and vegetable sources of various kinds meet her protein needs quite adequately. "Meeting her emotional need for something a bit meatier than chicken or turkey" would be more accurate, and that is indeed the goal. Also I like rabbit, and will happily eat it every week.

Taking a momentary break from today's work (an article on baby names, of all things) to touch on a practical note or two about raising bunnies. One thing a lot of people ask is "how much meat do you get out of this?" The answer really depends on the breeds you're raising, how large an establishment you can manage, and how hard you want to push your livestock. My GF (who, as mentioned upthread, handles the management side of things) tells me that a doe could have up to 10 litters/year, though that's a Victorian-era level of pregnancy that's very hard even on rabbits. We plan to go no more than 5-6 at most, and in future to give them the winters off (we kept them breeding this past winter, largely because we were still in the "exploring this whole thing" stage). The number of kits per litter varies widely - we've had as few as 2 and as many as 14 in one litter - but consensus within the "homesteader demographic" is that 8 is a good working average for planning purposes. So if you have 6 does as current breeders (as we now do; we've had up to 8 previously), the math looks like this: 6 does X 8 kits by 10 litters (max) equals 480 hypothetical kits; or at our projected volume half of that number. In our case, harvesting Flemish Giants at 16 weeks of age, we've been averaging 3 lbs dressed weight. More quick math, then, gives us potentially 720 lbs of meat in our freezer for our year's efforts. In practice, it's not going to look like that. Sadly one does lose some kits along the way, and in the case of that one doe I'd mentioned above the attrition sometimes reached half a litter. We've also sold a lot of kits as pets or breeders, which helps defray our costs but of course takes meat out of our freezer. The most recent sale was just yesterday, a 12-week kit. The couple had been out a few days ago to pick their bunny, a buck from the two near-simultaneous litters we'd gotten from our black does. One had only 2 kits and the other had 10, and the ones from the 2-kit litter are HUGE compared to their cousins. It was one of those that went to this couple. In the intervening three days they'd acquired a cage, a soft bed, a jacket-style harness and leash, and - in the wife's words - every toy ever devised for a rabbit. I think he's going to have a very happy life. Another question we often get is how this works out, cost-wise. Well... this is something we'd ideally have researched thoroughly before getting started, but - to reiterate - that's not how we roll around here. So we're just now getting to that part of the exercise. My GF's inquiries have given us a rule of thumb that a 50-pound sack of pellets equates to roughly 200 cups (here we go again, converting between weight and volume measures!), and an adult rabbit ordinarily requires 1 1/4 cups/day. That works out to 160 rabbit/days of feed per sack, and a sack costs us $27 and change CDN. With 8 breeders, that would nominally work out to 20 days per sack, but in practice that's not the case. Pregnant and nursing does have higher requirements, and some of our does will always be pregnant or nursing until the winter layover, so that's an added cost. Then there are all the kits (currently 30 or so indoors, and another 10 adolescents outdoors on grass at the moment), and our future breeders for when we refresh our bloodlines (5 currently on grass, the 2 black does are already second-generation). So in practice I'm currently going through roughly a sack a week, because even the pastured bunnies require some pellets. Additionally they get hay, which is relatively cheap (I live in an agricultural area) and has cost me about $80 total since we moved here and began purchasing it by the bale. That's 10 months now. Having the ravenous "teenagers" pastured out on grass should help keep our costs relatively low during the summer (another reason for letting them rest over winter). My best guess, going back through bank records, is that we're into this project to the tune of $1800 or so in feed, cage materials, food/water bowls and the gravity-fed watering system that's currently awaiting revision. We've sold approximately 30 kits to the best of our recollection, at $30 each, which has covered about half of our costs. We've harvested 30-odd as well (I could get an exact number by going back through our records, but don't want to take the time), of which a few have been bartered for various items (a tow for my van after a flat tire, the aforementioned vanity countertop, etc), so all in all I think we've arrived at a point where our cost/food rabbit has come down below $30, or roughly where it would be if we were buying them from the supermarket (where they're not always available). We know we'll need to spend on materials at a lower level going forward, probably just one more roll of wire to build an updated cage and then the occasional purchase of plain pine boards for shelters and nest boxes (rodents need to chew, and their shelters take a beating). So with more pasturing, and drawing down to just our 8 breeders in winter, we should be able to get our net cost down to maybe $20/rabbit, dressed and in the freezer. At an average of 3 lbs that's under $7/lb, which as this kind of special-diet scenario goes is not bad at all. It's comparable to the regular price of many beef/chicken/pork cuts in my neck of the woods, and cheaper that anything like lamb, veal, and farmed venison or bison (sale prices, of course, are a whole other thing). As always, feel free to ask questions.

Just ask Socrates...

Yup, that's it. Shaggymanes are a wonderful culinary mushroom, but you have to cook 'em immediately!

Well, it's pretty much unavoidable in mushrooming circles. Much like "eponymous" among music critics, I suppose.

I have to sheepishly admit that to my non German-speaking ear, "rosenblutenblatter" sounds like something Yosemite Sam would yell as he plunges 100 feet into the castle moat.

It's not strangulation, it's a sudden breaking of the neck. Of course that also severs/bursts some blood vessels, hence the bleeding and discoloration. Chopping the head off we discarded immediately as an option, not because it isn't quick/humane (I'm sure it is) but getting the critter's neck down on the chopping block necessarily means stress (and distress) for the animal. Also, as mentioned, my GF has plans for the pelts and washing out excess blood is no part of that. As for the .22 that would certainly be effective, but I have only just moved to the country and own no firearms. I may at some point acquire a couple, but it's currently pretty low on my priority list.

The intestines and suchlike just go into the trash. The mastiff turned up her nose at them and I don't want to risk attracting any (other) predators to the vicinity. I don't exactly know how much salt. My late son-in-law bought several boxes of pickling salt for one or another purpose and they're all badly caked now, so I just grab a chunk and bust it up and throw it in. I don't know if it's enough to actually contribute to food safety; I was thinking more in terms of helping draw out the blood from the neck region, which remains dark and discolored (I usually trim it away before cooking). They don't remain long in the water in any case, it's a relatively quick wash, so the salt is probably not really doing anything much.

If you're following along for the cute bunny pictures you may want to close your eyes and hit Page Down a few times, because a couple of days ago we harvested the white bunnies from the original post. I remember several of us taking interest in the breaking down of a deer in the 'Tis Hunting Time blog a year or two ago, so I'm going to post a short series of pics to document processing a rabbit. It's similar, though on a much smaller scale (and I don't typically break down the carcass into component parts before freezing them, because rabbits are obviously a more freezer-friendly size). I've already explained the method we use for the distasteful-but-necessary step of actually killing the poor wee beasties. I haven't got photos of that part, because a) it takes all of our hands; and b) I didn't wanna. So we'll start with a rabbit hung up for skinning. I've taken a piece of twine left over from a bale of hay and hung it from a nail, and then created loops at each end with two slip knots. Those hold the feet, and make it much more convenient to do the rest of the job (you'll note the fatal dog collar at the top left). At this point I've cut around the front of the ankle with a small, sharp knife, have cut partway down the front of the leg, and am coaxing the pelt away from the leg muscles. Rabbits' skin is fairly loose in most places, but the actual ankle is not one of them so it needs to be pulled away and carefully aided with the tip of the knife. When I first started doing this I would girdle the entire ankle with the knife blade before starting the downward cut, but that way there's a high risk of cutting the bunny equivalent of the Achilles tendon, which makes it more complicated to finish the leg. So now I cut around the front 3/4 of the leg, then loosen the skin all round, and finally insert the tip of my knife between the flesh and skin and cut upward and outward to free the pelt. That way there's no risk of cutting the tendon, and the leg meat stays where it's supposed to. At that point I make quick incisions down the front of each leg to the hip, and peel away the skin much as one would remove a sock. Once I've exposed about this much of the groin and belly (barring a small "Speedo" of fur around the various orifices), I loose the skin around the hips and gather it up in a bunch in my non-dominant hand. Then I cut through the tail to free up the whole hind portion of the pelt and leave it hanging as you see here, and then remove the "Speedo" with another couple of quick cuts. I really should have taken a photo of that stage, to make this visual record more complete, but didn't think of it until afterwards. Then I pull down on the skin and basically turn it inside out from hindlegs to ankle. Unfortunately, I missed getting the "business end" of the bunny into the frame while taking the picture, and left out the important part which is the skin still covering the forelegs and head. By the time I realized my error I was already finished, so here we are. At this point what I do is take each foreleg by the "elbow" and pull it out of the skin, then cut off the forepaw to free the leg entirely. With those removed from the skin I'll pull the skin down to the neck, sever the head, and set the whole pelt aside for later handling (my father used to eat the heads occasionally just to get a reaction from my Mom, but I don't bother because of the risk of Creutzfeldt-Jakob). ...annnnd, this is the final stage of the skinning process, with the head and forepaws removed. The blood comes from the neck-breaking process, which among other things causes a significant degree of internal bleeding at the neck. I usually put down a piece of corrugated, covered with random scraps of hay and straw, to soak that up. Now that I've "undressed" the rabbit in the physical sense, I'll move on to "dressing" it in the culinary sense. I start by pinching the thin flesh of the abdomen and pulling it away from the underlying plumbing, and then making a careful incision from groin to ribs. Again I probably should have taken a photo at that step, but didn't think of it until afterwards. Once that's done, I reach in and grab a handful of viscera starting with the stomach, which is the sturdiest part of the whole apparatus. If I pull that out in one big handful, everything should (and usually does) come out in one piece. Here's that stage of the process. I apologize for the middling quality of the photos; it was late in teh day and the light was poor. In the upper part of the cavity the dark mass you see is the liver, and directly below the liver on the right you'll see one of the kidneys nestled in along the back. Ordinarily they'd have more fat around them, but this bunny was an outlier. Here's a better look at the liver and kidneys in situ. I remove those and set them aside in a steel bowl that I keep handy for the purpose. At the top of this image you'll see the diaphragm and lungs, which constitute our next destination (again, my apologies for the image quality). That's the heart you see behind the lungs. I save the heart but discard the lungs. On a given day the hearts, kidneys and livers may get bagged and go into our freezer for the dogs, or simply pan-fried and go into me. On this particular occasion, because the freezer is already well-stocked, they went into me. At this point I put my dressed-out bunnies on a baking sheet and bring them to the house, where I rinse them thoroughly in a food-safe plastic bucket filled with salted water. Then they're patted dry with paper towels, bagged, weighed and frozen (in this batch two were right around the 3 pound mark but one weighed 3 pounds 10 ounces, so that's the one that went to pay for our new bathroom countertop). So that's the process. I have to feed the critters and set to work now, but I'll be back later in the day.

Yesterday got away from me, but I'll try to come back with a proper followup post later on. Fun bunny fact in the interim: rabbits are coprophages. In times of famine/poor forage, or when circumstances militate against leaving the den (a life-threatening storm, a predator parked outside the burrow waiting for a fuzzy head to pop up), they can - so to speak - "stretch the grocery budget" by eating their own droppings. It's actually a very clever evolutionary ploy for a non-ruminant herbivore, since their plant foods are only partially digested on the first pass. It is, in effect, a rabbit's way of chewing its cud. The fibrous cells of the grasses and leaves are already partially broken down, so more nutrients can be released during a second pass through the rabbit's gut. I'll add that all three of our dogs find the droppings to be an irresistible snack. Dogs are opportunistic omnivores, like humans (admittedly skewing more to the carnivore side) and presumably the partially digested greens are similarly easier for their intestinal microbiome to manage as well.

At my restaurant, many years ago now, a very nice lady from Georgia made my day by asking "How do y'all get the asparagus to curl up like that?"

The "Simply Hot" brand of Thai green chilies is being recalled in AB and SK because of salmonella, and they may have been distributed to other provinces. https://recalls-rappels.canada.ca/en/alert-recall/simply-hot-brand-thai-green-peppers-recalled-due-salmonella?utm_source=gc-notify&utm_medium=email&utm_content=en&utm_campaign=hc-sc-rsa-22-23

I don't know. I suppose it happens. Some does are just plain better mothers than others; one of ours consistently lost more kits than the others. I think she just didn't have the patience to wait for them to be done nursing before she hopped out of the nest box. Once the kit is out of the box, mama just plain ignores it. I don't think there's really any practical way for them to get one back into the nest/den once it's out, so they just write 'em off. With the little one I showed in this sequence of photos, I just put it back in the nest box and "normal service was resumed," as they say. That's been the case with any previous successful salvages as well. The unsuccessful ones? Well, I was putting them out in the woods well away from our rabbitry, but eventually realized that there are lots of reptile owners out there. So now I have a bag of failed rescues in my freezer, and we're going to reach out through FB and local pet stores to see who's interested in some to feed their lizards and snakes. It's a way to monetize what would otherwise be a pure loss, so it seems worth exploring. I'll post more later, but right now I have an article to write and my long-awaited load of topsoil will be getting here in an hour as well. For now here's a picture of our little lame bunny, Tina, enjoying some backyard time while I clean out her cage. The lawn chairs in the background prompt the memory of an eye-rolling "dad joke": Q: What's Irish and spends all winter in the garage? A: Paddy O'Furniture

This is probably a more meaningful application of the technology: https://worksinprogress.co/issue/every-grain-of-rice

The last time I looked at them in the supermarket up here (it's been a few years) they ran in the $25-$30 (CDN) range.

Bartered a kitchen-ready bunny yesterday for a used manufactured-stone countertop for our bathroom vanity. Gotta love the rural economy, right? I said off the top that the rabbits are emphatically not pets, but we currently have a couple of exceptions. One is little Coco Bean, featured above, whose status as my granddaughter's daddy's girlfriend's favorite (she'll be abbreviated as "J" henceforward, to save typing) means that he/she will either go to their place as a pet, or be kept out as a breeder when the time comes. My GF also spotted a little lame kit in one of our recent litters, which I brought indoors because runts and physically impaired kits tend to be crowded out by their siblings and starve. The wee one had deformed hind legs and (I believe) hip problems as well, so I dubbed him "Tiny Tim" after the similarly afflicted Dickens character. Except upon later inspection "Tim" turned out to be a doe, so now she's Tina. Now that she's a healthy and growing adolescent we've begun advertising her for rehoming as a pet. She's very cuddly and affectionate (Flemish Giants are known for having a pleasant disposition). Here she is: Although she can't hop around like other bunnies, she still manages to thrash around her cage at high speed, using the same sort of motion as a swimming frog. It's odd-looking, but very effective. She is, of course, spoiled rotten with vegetable trimmings, apple cores and similar delicacies.

Well, she's a ginger and tends to just jump in with both feet. Which complements my style well, because I'm the "overthink and procrastinate" type. So I check her (much of the time) and she prods me into motion (much of the time) and it usually balances out. In this particular instance, the first I heard of the impending rabbit project was when she mentioned to me that we were picking up a buck and two does.