Sandra Levine

Which you can then enjoy after saying the brocha.

I don't think it is hypocritical, merely recognition that humans are at the top of the food chain. That there is something inherently cruel about killing animals for food cannot be denied. I think that is why the process from slaughter to eating has been surrounded by so much ritual (religious and otherwise) -- to somehow justify and sanctify it and make it morally and ethically acceptable.

That's why I make apple pie only in the fall. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 10:11 am on Feb. 5, 2002)

Roasting vegetables caramelizes them and concentrates the flavors. With the exception of leafy greens, I can't think of a vegetable that doesn't benefit from this treatment. I loathed carrots until I decided to try to roast them. (see above) Now, they are one of my favorites. To give credit where credit is due, I first roasted cauliflower at the suggestion of the much-maligned Amanda Hesser, who mentioned the idea in one of her early articles. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 8:33 am on Feb. 1, 2002)

Okay. Devil Dogs. And I split them apart and lick off the shaving cream before eating the cake. Only once or twice a year, though.

Alan and Sandy Levine are in.

The same technique also does wonders for carrots and parsnips. Just peel the carrots, and if they are less than about 3/4" in diameter, keep them whole. I use my De Longhi toaster oven instead of the big oven and the kitchen doesn't even get overheated. For variety, sprinkle some herbs on the vegetables. The cauliflower, BTW, is great as a side dish with seared sea scallops. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 8:27 pm on Jan. 29, 2002)

Yes, I agree that the coffee could be stored better, but they are careful about rotating the stock and at the flagship store in NYC, many of the coffees, e.g. Yrgacheffe, Yauco Selecto, Kona, sell very fast. I don't know about the other branches. The house blend is also available in the familiar one-way valve 1-lb. bag and it also sells incredibly fast. (The burlap bags are plastic-lined and at the close of business, the staff does fold the top of the bags over the beans, in an attempt to keep some air out overnight.) (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:01 pm on Jan. 27, 2002)

Yes, Peter, I absolutely agree with you. If someone finds properly made coffee "too strong," he or she should switch to a lighter roast or different beans, and not simply use less coffee, the way many people do in error.

Northern Spy fit that description, if you can find them in the fall. I like to mix two varieties -- Northern Spy or Granny Smith and one or two Mackintoshes. The result is a more complex texture. Did you ever try pouring a cream over the apples before putting on the top crust? A decadent delight, especially with nutmeg.

There is a certain amount of trial and error. The measure I use with success is a Foley 1/8 cup (also marked 29.7 ml). It is part of a set, so that I feel confident using the 1/4 cup or 1/2 cup measure to make larger amounts of coffee without repeated scooping. How this compares with the "official" standard measure, I don't know, but it works for me.

For the French press, you need a grind coarse enough to avoid sludge in your final cup. The water should be just below boiling and you should wait five minutes before pressing. Use a 2 tablespoon measure of ground coffee for 6 oz. of water. Do you grind your own beans? If you do and you're not satisfied with the result, you could have a small amount ground with the professional mill when you buy them and compare the texture with what you produce at home. BTW, the same proportion of coffee to water applies to any method of making coffee (except espresso.) If this proportion is too strong, simply dilute with hot water after the coffee is brewed. Remember that professional coffee tasters judge the character of coffee at half-strength, because that shows all the coffee's flaws. Depending on the brewing method, the texture of the grind, in general, should be finer the less time the ground coffee will be in contact with the water. Coarser coffee/longer brewing time. Finer coffee/shorter brewing time. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 3:35 pm on Jan. 25, 2002)

I've heard very good things about Peet's, but since I like to buy very small quantities for optimum freshness, I am reluctant to mail order. Somehow, I don't mind paying a premium for the coffee, but I do mind shipping charges. I wish Peet's were available in New York; I would love to try some of their beans. I know that some people buy green beans and roast them themselves, but I have neither the time nor inclination to take that route. (Edited'>http://www.sweetmarias.com/prod.greencoffee.shtml (Edited by Sandra Levine at 8:21 am on Jan. 23, 2002)

excerpt from "Owed to New York" by Byron Rufus Newton, 1906 "Crazed with avarice, lust and rum New York, thy name's delirium." The entire poem can be found in Best-Loved Poems of the American People ed., Felleman, 1936. or at http://www.potw.org/archive/potw215.html (Edited by Sandra Levine at 9:09 pm on Jan. 21, 2002)

Dean and DeLuca carries a Puerto Rico Yauco Selecto that has similar qualities to a good Kona, but costs less. Turnover (consequently, freshness of beans) at D and D is excellent for the most popular coffees, including this one. BTW, D and D's best seller is Yrgacheffe, which makes a relatively low-acid, heavy bodied brew with chocolately overtones that may not be your cup of tea, but is the favorite of many. You may also be pleasantly surprised by the regular house blend, which is a combination of Mexican Altura and Guatamala Antigua, if memory serves.

Reminds of the time my son, then 7 years old, wanted to stay up and listgen to the adults' conversation. After listening to my sister-in-law's sister-in-law compare, at some length, the relative merits of Fantastik and 409, he said he had no idea adults were so boring. This topic is unworthy of eGullet, or, at best, should go under the washing kitchen sponges thread. On the other hand, it may be interesting to see what some of the fine-tuned eGullet wits can make of this. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:20 am on Jan. 19, 2002) (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:43 am on Jan. 19, 2002)

Ah, that's the answer to the question of what kind of training a waiter should have. When I worked at Dean & DeLuca, I used to say that most of the people who came in were customers, others were clients, but a few were patients.

Echo, Becco. Rosie beat me to the punch.

The French Butcher is on Second Avenue, according to the phone and to my recollection. I went there a coupleof weeks ago for venison, but it was so expensive that I settled for veal scallops. Everything in the store looked terrific, and I told the butcher that I would be back for the venison the next time my husband settled a big case.

It's pike, I believe. I've had this dish in Ely, MN and I know what you're talking about. It was the most bizarre sensation to chew something that had absolutely no taste, and not much texture, either. In France, they use pike to make quenelles. In Minnesota....

Land o Lakes has come out with an "Ultra Creamy" butter that has a texture similar to French butter, i.e., softer and more easily spreadable even directly from the refrigerator. I haven't seen it in all stores, although the food Emporium in NY carries it. It is more expensive than regular Land o' Lakes, but I think it is worth it, although it won't satisfy people who are looking for that cultured butter flavor.

Yes. I was inspired to fry eggs in olive oil by this painting:http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/velazquez/velazquez_frying_eggs.jpg.html

I could use some clarification here.