Sandra Levine

My husband makes them the way you do, and I like them that way, too, especially if I'm having them in the morning, for breakfast. (And in fact, I can flip the eggs in a big pan.) But, the truth is, I've come to prefer them made the way I described, which I developed when I still suffered from fear of flipping. I've found that if the heat is high enough so that the lid stays on just a few seconds, you don't get the steamed effect. I agree, bacon fat is great for eggs. Any other methods, anyone? (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:24 pm on Jan. 8, 2002)

Another approach: http://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/09/dining/09EGGS.html

How do you like them? How do you make them? In a diner, I usually order them over light. But, at home, I don't trust myself to turn them over without breaking the yolk, so I use another method. I happen to love the brown lace on the perimeter that most people try to avoid developing. To me, its delicate crispness is like the snap of good chocolate. The way I achieve the desired result is to pre-heat my 8-inch nonstick All-Clad pan, add some olive oil and when that is hot, break in the eggs. I don't turn down the heat. It's fast. Yes, I know what high heat does to protein, but that's the effect I'm looking for. The whites puff attractively. When there is just a little rim of uncooked white surrounding the yolk, I put the lid on the pan until, in about 10 seconds or so, a film has formed over the yolk. Pepper only, no salt. I like these when I'm eating dinner alone, with some home-fries, if I have potatoes and the patience to make them.

Isn't this a trade paperback (as opposed to a mass market papereback?

I was really just poking fun at myself for complaining about contemporary bagels, but you have asked some interesting questions that I will enjoy thinking about. Analogies are always imperfect, but there may well be certain similarities between food preparation and architecture (aside from Careme's comment on pastry-making) that stem from the roots in and expression of a particular culture that both activities share.

Maybe the fact that I'm in historic preservation (of architecture) informs by interest in in authentic and ethnic foods. The "authenticity" issues that Steve mentioned in another post are certainly alive and kicking in historic preservation. I am not a purist in either architecture or ethnic food, but in both areas, I prefer that the original character of the object remain recognizable. At some point, too much alteration can turn a building , or a dish, into something else completely. On the other hand, I also like the shock of the new.

We went to SoHo on George after all. I just wrote a long description of our experience there, that I somehow lost before posting successfully. To summarize, the evening was very pleasant, noise level ok at the large table in front of the kitchen, appetizers excellent, especially the spinach salad with Maytag blue cheese and caramelized quince. I loved my quail on tomato hash appetizer, too although that and a salad would have been enough for me. Paella featured lovely, fresh shellfish, nicely prepared, but the addition of a creamy saffron sauce made the dish too rich. Duck confit spring rolls were bland. The temperature of the salmon was uneven, as if it had been left waiting for other dishes to finish cooking. Everything was a little too salty. Sorbets -- good texture, a little too sweet, served in a martini glass with a pretty two-toned spiral cookie. It looked like New Year's Eve. Service was attentive, yet amateur-ish. Our water glasses were re-filled, napkins re-folded, etc, but the waiter felt compelled to tell us his name and state the fact that he would be serving us, as if we couldn't figure that out ourselves. He also insisted on performing a rote recitation of the specials that added nothing to the printed list that accompanied the regular menu, but did delay the arrival of the champagne for the toast to the in-laws 65th anniversary, which was the reason we were there in the first place. I don't mean to sound too negative. It was a lovely evening and much of the food was good. Everything looked very festive on the plate. I felt that this is an ambitious restaurant that falls short of its goals, although there is obviously skill in the kitchen. If I go back, I'll have two appetizers rather than an app and entree. Once again, thanks to all for the suggestions. I went to college in New Brunswick (mumble, mumble) years ago and it's still amazing to me that there are several restaurants of this caliber there. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 4:12 pm on Jan. 6, 2002)

"North Jersey isn't the suburbs! It's the sixth borough" And I thought the sixth borough was South Florida. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:08 am on Jan. 6, 2002)

H & H bagels are better than most of the others, but nothing made today compares with those made years ago. Not that I ever loved bagels all that much -- but they were much smaller, harder, chewier and less sweet than bagels today. Thirty years ago, bagels were quirky and ethnic when most other bread aspired to be soft, sweet and puffy. Now, with so many excellent bakeries and breads available, at least in NY, it is surprising that someone hasn't tried to revive the authentic bagel. Hmmm.

Dont's foget the bialys at Kossar's on Grand Street. Many people prefer them to any bagel available since, say, 1960 or thereabouts, when bagels doubled in size and lost their chewiness. Even Kossar's has compromised in recent years under new owndership, with a slightly increased size to make the bialy more suitable as a sandwich roll, I guess, and a tendency to underbake, knowing that most people will end up toasting them. Bialys should be eaten, ideally, while they are still warm from the oven.

http://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/02/dining/02TOGO.html I've tried the basic hot dog at both places mentioned in the above article. Neither was as good as Papaya King or Katz's, although neither of those establishments offer a hot dog that surpasses my benchmark -- a long-gone joint on Rt. 1 between Trenton and Philadelphia named Cliff's. Cliff's dog was,if memory serves, an all-beef dog with a natural casing that the cook scored in a spiral lengthwise, cut a clot at either end and deep-fried. When you bit into it, it snapped back. Crif's was a barely seasoned, skinless beef and pork number that was dipped in oil until it was heated through. Very disappointing, I think, especially because of the similarity of the names, "Crif's," and "Cliff's," not that I should have expected any similarities in the food based on similarities in the names. Dawgs on Park was no better and not much different, although it offers Guss's sauerkraut, a plus for those who like sauerkraut on ther hot dogs. I prefer mustard and green relish. (This strikes my husband as an aberration based on my Delaware Valley origins.) Holly, if you buy that truck, I'll be there. (BTW, I like F & B, Hallo, Berlin, Papaya King and Katz's.) (Edited by Sandra Levine at 9:55 am on Jan. 5, 2002)

"two best cheesesteaks" Holly, what are the criteria?

Speaking of mashed potato: saute choped onion in oil or duck fat, till deliciously caramelized. Drain boiled potatoes (reserve some water) and mash with the onions and fat. If the potatoes are too stiff, soften a bit with a spoonful or two potato cooking water. Salt and pepper of course.

I add a tablespoon of water, milk or cream, depending on my mood, beat with a fork until combined, but not foamy and turn them into a heavy pan in which butter has been melted. I use low heat and scrape and stir evey so often. I like large, soft curds, so I keep the stirring to a minimum. I remove the eggs when they are thoroughly set, but still a little shiny. I love these discussions about preparing seemingly simple dishes -- like home fries. One of my favorite cooking exercises is the attempt to perfect a very simple dish and hearing people say, when they eat it, "This is the best___ I've ever had." Of course, perfection, by definition, can never be achieved, so there remains a constant challenge. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 11:40 am on Dec. 29, 2001)

We are thinking about a midnight supper of my hubands's specialty, lox, eggs and onions. We'll eat croissants with the eggs and toast each other and the New Year with a gift bottle of Perrier-Jouet.

Home fries are sliced or coarsely chopped potatoes, sauteed with onions and sometimes bell peppers. French fries are cut differently, and deep-fried, most properly, twice, at different temperatures. My grandmother used to cube the potatoes and par-boil them them before sautee-ing them in corn oil only, never butter. She sprinkled them generously with paprika, too as well as salt and pepper. They were delicious, but not, in my opinion, true home fries, which are not par-boiled. The paprika adds a delicate and delectable crust...if you like paprika. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 6:19 pm on Dec. 28, 2001)

I've had success using russets cut into thin slices rather than cubes. The slices can be halved if the potatoes are large. I usually use half corn oil, half butter for frying and add chopped onion in the ratio of 1 onion to 2 potatoes after the potatoes begin to take on color. Salt and pepper, of course. These potatoes can take on ethnic character if you decide to add herbs. The trick is low heat, slow cooking. If you try to rush home fries, you will end up with half raw, half burnt potatoes and all burnt onions. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 1:50 pm on Dec. 28, 2001)

There will be eight of us, one of whom will need fish or pasta rather than meat, so I think I'll look into Panico's. Thank you all for your suggestions.

We are planning to take my in-laws out to dinner to celebrate their 65th! anniversary. They live in central New Jersey and we want to stay fairly close to home -- i.e. no traveling to NY in early January. The Ryland Inn is too expensive. I've thought about The Frog and the Peach in New Brunswick or Soho on George, but I'm worried about the noise level. Any advice? Suggestions?

My husband, Alan, and I are looking forward to this.

The latkes I made Sunday night with Yukon Gold potatoes were my best ever, according to my family. I liked them, too: thin, with crisp shreds of potato on the exterior, but with a traditional, softer interior than usual for the food processor method.

Porkfat! Not for latkes, although the recipe sounds great for potato pancakes and very traditional other than the choice of fat. Grating by hand is traditional and the only way my mother-in-law makes them, but I use the grating disk on my food processor. I use either baking potatoes or boiling potatoes, but not new potatoes -- too much moisture. First, I peel the potatoes and cover them with cold water. I grate the potatoes alternately with a sizable onion and keep mixing so that the onion juice helps prevent the potatoes from turning a funny color. When everything is grated, I squeeze out the mixture over a small bowl and let the starch settle. Then I pour out the liquid and add the starch at the bottom of the bowl to the potatoes and onions. I add two beaten eggs and two tablespoons of matzah meal or flour, about a tablespoon of salt and a some pepper. I use corn oil to pan-fry the latkes and serve them with applesauce. I find latkes made with potatoes grated by the food processor to be lighter and crisper than the traditional version, but many people prefer the heavier, softer texture that hand-grating produces. (Edited by Sandra Levine at 10:54 pm on Dec. 6, 2001)

Sauteed in butter and finished with a little cream and some sage leaves, they are delicious smothering a veal chop.

Thanks, Steve. I checked some websites of a few likely wine stores in NY (67, Morrell, Zachy's) to see if any carried it, but was unsuccessful in finding it It sounds as if it would have been wonderful with yesterday's pumpkin pie (an old James Beard recipe that calls for candied ginger, in addition to the usual spices.)