simdelish

If you are into making cakes, I heartily concur with the previous recs for RLB's Cake Bible. It is, just that. A newer book which I have begun recommending to people is Sherry Yard's Secrets of Baking. Actually, it is the book I had in my mind to write. It is laid out differently than most others, in that each chapter starts with a master recipe, and then explains and builds upon/does spin-off variations. (a caramel chapter, a chocolate chapter, a vanilla sauce, etc) It is well conceived, well written, and truly replaces confusion and mystery with understanding and confidence. Sherry Yard is a talented pc, and her techniques are sound, her recipes tried and true, and results delicious.

Finally away from work and back at my computer (that's what happens when I take an afternoon off!). What a great evening: good company, good food, good beverages, what more could you ask for? Nice to see friendly faces from the picnic, and meet new ones. The chicken contest was indeed a toss-up. I loved the moistness of the brined, the skin of the Zuni-style, and the flavor of the third (probably because it tasted most like what I make at home -- what can I say? ) The greens were outstanding, and prompted me to pick up an enourmous bundle (are they supposed to be that big?) at my local market tonight, where the sign claimed "picked this morning on the eastern shore." No ham hocks available, but I grabbed some slab bacon on the next aisle over to cook with. Tomorrow's dinner will be greens, corn, blackberries which my kids picked tonight, and crabs from my traps. Yum! My heartfelt thanks to the Busboys for their kind hospitality. Staying that extra hour was the best part -- After working seven days a week for the last 2 months, Sunday's event was just what I needed -- and I didn't even have to cook! a delightful evening! My sincere appreciation to all who participated, and sincere pity for those who didn't attend! You don't know what you missed...

Somehow I missed this thread before, in the Spring when you all were posting. But now that I have read it through twice, I have a few questions. I couldn't get the pcb website to load, so not sure if that would make the difference in my understanding... Basically, you are making a patterned joconde, that is say, 23 x 4 inches, laying it on an acetate sheet the same size (or 1/2 inch wider), rolling it up and sticking it in a tube, yes? So actually, when you are done, you have TWO thicknesses of plastic around your cake, right? you don't pull out the acetate sheet as you are forcing the cake into the tube, are you? then, to fill... if it's 23 inches long, how on earth do you pipe in a mousse? does it really move that far along? or do you fill from both ends? Or do you want a more "pourable" mousse? after chilling to set, then just how do you get the thing out? do you push from one end.. like a wonder-cup? or I guess if there's still 2 pieces of plastic, the tube slips off the acetate sheet... then what? you cut through it, acetate and all? or peel off and cut at the same time? that seems kind of awkward/troublesome... I am sorry for being so dense. very tired tonight, but am so interested in this, i wanted to understand asap. thanks for understanding. oh yes, one more q -- you metioned other shapes... does the website have them? how much did the kit cost wendy, including shipping?

Busboy, Do you want some Lewes Dairy cream? or will you have the base already made? I can bring some if you like.

I actually assumed they'd have to keep to their word and give away a restaurant as the prize. But my theory was that GR would say in the end that because it was so close, Ralph gets the restaurant, but because Micheal was also so good (and more trainable/younger), GR offers him a position at one of his restaurants as a second place. Oh well, what do I know? jhlurie, you're right tho, about the trump card or last minute twist... that seems to be de riguer nowadays in reality tv.

Thanks, Bavila, for posting. (Good) PR is always appreciated. Yes, she is not one for negative reviews... (!) The review was kind, and I appreciate being named, as most PC's are an afterthought. The funny thing, on the large blow-up poster of the menu which is inside the window at the entrance, the chef's name was accidentally left off, and only my name reads at the bottom... so I have been getting many calls from friends congratulating me on "my new restaurant." I am always leery of a review done so soon after any restaurant opens, and now I can see first-hand from the other side the disadvantages. Yes, we are open and underway, but we are still (painfully) trying to train servers, staff, and kitchen help, hire for those positions not yet filled, and just basically trying to get off the ground. The menu is about 80% available, including my dessert menu. Lack of ingredients, needed equipment/serving pieces, and labor prevents both the chef and I from fully completing our intended offerings. That said, I do think what we are producing is good. Unfortunately, at least for me, I am afraid by the time I get the things I need, it will be time to change my menu for the new season... We are clearly offering food and an experience different from what most Annapolitans expect and/or have been used to locally, -- and therefore, hopefully that means a step up in quality, creativity, service, and complexity/variety of offerings (wine, apps/entrees, and dessert). Things like the wine bar, the desserts til 1 am, the rooftop garden, the decor set us apart, in addition to the great menu. As for my desserts, Bavila, thanks for asking-- yes, the Chocolate Royale is a top-seller (it's my longtime -- 10 yrs-- version of the Kit-Kat bar thing), only bested by the steak and the lobster risotto for kitchen income rank. The Cappuccino was not to be on the menu until winter, but the Chef loves it, and wanted it for opening. I am pleased with the response for "Pink & Green" -- the lime mousse and strawberry gelato -- but cringe at the comparison by the Capital to a key lime pie. (In fact, in looking at the respective recipes, there literally is NO common ingredient -- egg whites, fresh lime, sugar, and whipped cream in pate sucree, as opposed to egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk and bottled key lime juice in a graham cracker crust.) My summer fruit consomme is truly refreshing, and addictive thanks to the chocolate-hazlenut ravioli floating in it -- but alas, not as popular. I may be switching that out soon to a sort of peach-corn bisque, now that both those ingredients are in season, local and luscious. I wish the review had mentioned that all my frozens are made from scratch, in house: chocolate-Grand Marnier, vanilla, banana 5-spice ice cream, the strawberry and nocciole gelatos, and all the sorbets -- mango, citrus, raspberry, coconut, kiwi, passionfruit and prickly pear. Once I find an assistant, and have more time, we will be offering a plate of petit fours at the end of the meal, so more good things to come! (commercial now over ) thanks for the mention, and do visit us! Tell them "I'm a friend of the Pastry Chef..." LOL, everyone else does!

That's a DEFINITE, not a perhaps. I like wine, too, with my roast chicken, Busboy, but in this heat, only a mojito can cure me. I plan on bringing a very "Large" container of them, along with a cooler of rocks (ice, that is ).

I meant no comment on the life of a food sales rep, one way or another... (my rep has been doing it for 4 or 5 years now, says she makes great money, and is a very nice -- and attractive-- person, but often clueless, and doesn't seem to work hard, or be willing to work hard, I should say. I say that because she can't seem to find me simple things, even when I give her the on-line printout of the product, the price, the item number, etc.) I only shared that story as an example of someone who dreamt for years that's what she wanted to do (baking and pastry), finally did it, eyes open and well into adult life, and found out it wouldn't pay the bills. She spent all that money and time on a premier and expensive culinary school, only to become a SYSCO rep...

BTW, who's the Bookie for this? Where do I place my bet?

I don't have that experience. edited to add: And I don't agree that pan gravy is a fried chicken thing. I always roast my chicken with aromatics, make gravy and serve it over the sliced chiken and the rice. ← Moi aussi, Monsieur Nebergall. I ALWAYS make a pan gravy when I make roast chicken. (and although I prefer rice, my fam insists usually mashed taters, as if it's Thanksgiving.) Funny though too, I have also NEVER thought of fried chicken as having gravy as an accompaniment.

What has been advised here is spot on. But, just as an example, to sort of play devil's advocate, I will share this: Our Sysco rep went to the CIA for the Baking/Pastry program and finished I believe in '98. She says she wanted it for years, and finally got the funds, time and experience to attend (and she was over 30). Out of school she slaved away at two different places for pennies (actually about 8 or 9 bucks an hour). After doing lots of research on her slow growing career by talking to MANY others in the pasty field, she decided she couldn't exist on such a limited income, and without any hopes of benefits until she got near the top. Her words: her future looked grim. She heard about an opening at Sysco, and went for it. Now she sells mass-produced canned/packaged basic ingredients and ersatz mixes, along with equipment. She gets to live vicariously through her customers/accounts when she calls on them. She says she's still around food, but not at all what she planned. But, she makes a decent living, with benefits. She says, however, that she does make the best damn cookies of any of her friends...

My new job has yet to get an ice cream maker for me... but in the meantime, one of the owner's friends, a caterer, brought in her Musso for me to use in the meantime. For my purposes, it is a PITA, because it makes such small amounts (I get less than 2 qts out of it), and it is not easy to clean/sanitize, as there are no removable canisters, or an extruding exit to wash hot water thru. It takes me about 30-40 min to run a batch, sometimes more. When I have a big batch of some flavor, I just scoop out the first batch, don't even wipe out etc, just pour more base in and keep going. The caterer said she hardly uses it (which is why she loaned it to me) (AND it won't pass the health inspector, so she keeps it hidden, and forgets she has it). She did say she used it for one very large NYE party, and they started cranking batches out starting at 4 or 5 pm, and didn't stop til 2 am. She said it didn't have a problem going that long. I am fairly happy with the results, I guess an 8 out of 10. It definitely does not, for some reason, churn the mix as fine as the commercial machines I have used in the past (I found the CRM gelato maker the best of all). For me, I have found I almost have to overdo it, as the super small batch has a tendency to start melting right away, while I am trying to scoop the stuff out and get into the freezer. The Musso does have 2 separate buttons, one for the dasher, and one for the cold/freeze. If I leave on the freeze while scooping, the edges get rock hard in a matter of seconds, which makes the mix lumpy. I have used most of the home machines, and I would say this Musso definitely does the best job. If you are serious about ice cream, and can spring for the Musso, I would recommend it over the others. For now for me, the little Musso is doing the job at work, but it keeps my assistant busy, doing batch after batch. I am counting down the days, however, until I get a big 'un once again!

That last recipe sounds pretty good, very similar proportions and ingredients to a reciped near and dear to me....and close to the very one I have been trying to perfect for the last couple years (not very aggresively tho ) Story to follow; please excuse the reminiscing... Years ago, when I was 9yrs old (LOL not that long ago...) my grandmother was know to make the Best bb muffins. I was an avid 4-Her at the time, and that summer was getting ready for my first County Fair. My Nana pulled me aside and said she would teach me her secrets... And so she did. I entered, at age 10 and won the blue ribbon for blueberry muffins (we have a very large and well respected county fair, as far as they go). Getting the blue ribbon of course granted me permission to enter the same recipe in the State Fair, but my mother didn't want to drive so far a few weeks later when that time came around. The following year, along with a zillion other entries, from pickles to flower arrangements, to place settings, to sewing, (Man, I was hooked!) I entered scads of things. My blueberry muffins this time not only won the blue, but Grand Champion in the entire Baking division. My mother, however, still did not want to drive the extra hour or two (3 times more) to the State Fair, so that still went unchallenged. The third year, I again won County best muffin, again Grand Champ in Baking division, at age 11. Articles in all the papers, you name it. And this time, my mother finally agreed to drive me to the State Fair. (By then, I had amassed several other blues, so the trip covered more entries.) And yes, I won the Blue. And again, and again and again. I won both county and state for gosh, I forgot now, I guess 5 more years. Most people stopped entering, but there was always someone who thought they could top me. I was so unfazed as a child, because it was so easy. I just knew it was because of my Nana's secret recipe. After 5 years, they said I couldn't enter anymore, believe it or not. So I retired my baking career at age 16, and decided to take up boys instead. Fast forward a "few" years. The recipe, along with many other of my grandmother's, in a box in the basement of my newlywed house. Flood. Box and all recipes ruined. I still have the stained box, still need to try to resurrect, given the time. The recipe is is there somewhere, But I haven't to this day recovered it. So, no unfortunately I am very sorry, after that long dumb story, I do not have a recipe to share. But I just wanted to try to contribute... maybe this summer will be the summer I resurrect the famous, retired champion Blue Ribbon Blueberry Muffins.... In the meantime, maybe I can try Cali's recipe (along of course, with my Nana's secrets tips!!!) Thanks for letting me share. (now I am sad... )

Wendy, you are right on all those counts. I think most of us have those problems. You in particular are having to deal with volume and production, and economics (labor)-- not an easy task, and one that, as you say, basically eliminates things like meringue products. I guess I'm a sucker for punishment... but that's precisely one of the reasons I put meringue in my menu. I love it, and I want others to know it, understand it, and love it like me. I've said this before in many other threads... but I keep trying to educate the public. If I do/can, then it's to my benefit, as well as theirs. (Currently I have 3 items on my dessert menu, out of 6, that have meringue in them. I intend on getting a souffle on the menu down the road, but first I need to train my staff better)

I'm with you Chefette, my thoughts exactly as I read it on Sunday. One faux pas after another... I still am shaking my head. He CERTAINLY knew better, even 25 yrs ago. Hell, I knew better 25 years ago!

Wendy, you know... just like Chef Boy-ar-dee!!! Ravioli! But not "full of meat" but still "really neat to eat!" (I shouldn't have put the s on the end of the word) I make them with wonton skins. I make a filling with hazelnut paste and cocoa, and place onto one skin, moisten, top with second skin, press, and cut out clean shape. Freeze til hard, then service prep just simmers them for 3 min, and trays them until ready to use. Voila!

Right now I'm doing a chilled fruit consomme, like something I saw Thomas Haas do a few years back. Fresh peach, orange, pink grapefruit, along with some apple juice and a couple shots of passionfruit, steeped with vanilla and lemongrass. I thicken it a bit with clear gel. For service, we present a cool cat's eye shaped bowl, with hazelnut chocolate raviolis and edible flowers in the bottom. The cold soup is poured tableside, and the flowers go floating to the top. The fruit with the chocolate/haznut thing is delicious. Great minds think alike Corey.... I have been tinkering with a peach and corn bisque myself, anticipating the luscious local August crops. Trying to figure a crunchy or crispy element to go with... Your cuke-melon water... where is it? under, or on the side in a shotglass?

Err... not sure I agree with all that.... (one ounce of powdered has A LOT more strength than one sheet) First of all...It all depends on the strength of the sheet gelatin you're using. Sheet gelatins come in a wide variety of quality (and therefore strength). I use, for instance, platinum sheets --which are more expensive, refined, thinner, but more economical--and which have a relative strength of 235 -265g. Silver can be half strength of that... about 130. Bronze is in the range of 125-155, and gold 190-220. Sooooo.... it may take 3, 4 or 5 sheets to do the same thickening of 2 cups liquid. Thickening is also relative (do you want it to just gel a bit so not runny, or do you want Jello Jigglers?) If you are trying to sub weights when using sheets, it is far better to use grams, not ounces, as it is more precise with such small amounts. Most sheet gelatin will say on the side of the box what the weight is (one gram) As for standard granulated (powdered) gelatin measurements: 1 packet = 1/4 oz = 2 and 1/2 teaspoons Regardless, both kinds of gelatin must first be bloomed (softened in COLD never warm water) and then heated gently (never boiled) to melt/dissolve in order to add. Sheets are usually squeezed out so there's no excess water, and added directly to a warm liquid. Granulated gelatin is usually bloomed in a specific amount of liquid/water, and the whole thing is then warmed to melt and added (both the granular and water which have congealed into one mass). You never just sprinkle granulated gelatin over something you want to thicken. If you have a cold liquid mixture that you want to add the warm melted gelatin to, then 'temper' it in. That is, don't just try to stir in the liquid gelatin: you will only get little clear lumps or pieces in your mixture. Rather, first stir a small amount of the mix into the gelatin, then add it back into the bigger bowl of mix. Also, be sure not to use gelatin with bromelin-heavy fruits, like fresh/frozen pineapple, guava, figs, kiwi or gingerroot. The Bromelin enzyme destroys the protein bonds in the gelatin, subsequently no gelling will occur. (Cooking or other processing, like canning pineapple,will destroy the bromelin.)

Thanks everyone. (My dial-up has been extra frustrating lately too, I would have replied sooner!) I am a restaurant pc only doing desserts and the occasional item for the hot side like gorgonzola wafers for the filet, parmesan shells,etc... not a bakery, so I have limitations on time and ingredients to do something like a walnut bread. I tried Carol Field's recipe last week (I had that book, but forgot to look. It was buried in my pile of books beside!). It was really quick and easy, and everyone scarfed it up. I thought what I made would get us through the weekend -- 2 very large loaves, but our baguette order came in short, so they used my walnut bread in the bread basket as well as for the cheese course. All gone in one night. The bread was delicious, a lot of walnuts per loaf(a whopping 2 cups). The directions said coarsely chopped,which I orginally after baking but before eating thought I might do much finer the next time, but after cutting into it, I much prefered the coarse chop. It was a little softer than I'd like, but definitely a keeper. And easy because it didn't require wheat flour. I looked long and hard at the Steve Sullivan recipe in BwJ, but wow, much more complicated than I need to get (mixed starter, including a knob of pizza dough, something a bakery doing bread every day would have, but not me!) Ditto with Jackal's recipe. I do want that sourdough consistency, but I can't fool with so many steps, nor can I make one dough first to then just pull off a knob to use in another... I will try to see what the BwJ thread says and advises. Until then, still looking! thanks again.

I call 'em tea towels too, at home, and I'm US. In school they are called side towels, but at every job I've ever had, they're called rags.

Hot Tamales the cinnamon candy made by the same folks who make Peeps. It's like the potato chip saying... I can't eat just one. My kids buy me a box for every holiday, Mother's day, birthday, etc. They were on sale yesterday at the grocery store (20 cents off!!!) and I just polished off the whole box (1/2 pound) while doing my eG reading for the evening. Let me check what the nutrition box says.... uh oh,....not a significant source of anything...150 calories per serving.... 6 servings per box.... ok, let's not go there

My last job, my Exec would issue everyone a few towels every few days. Basically, it evened out to about 2 or 3 per day, but we were able to "budget" our own towels for whatever each station needed for different tasks. That way, one day we could get by with one, or carryover a clean one to not-so-clean status the next day, etc. Overall, tho, towels were generally considered gold, and we did each have our own stash (readily acknowledged/accepted by the exec). Some days I could get by with one wet and one dry (and I also had one hot mitt, as I am a pc). Other days however, when I had several batches of chocolate things, or ice cream to make, I used more. My current job is the exact opposite. Towels flow like water! I have seen us go through 3 or 4 bundles in one evening, with guys using them like kleenex (about 10 apiece). The Exec could care less! What's even more amazing though, is the thing they are most stingy about: THE DISHWASHER! They have frowned on us sending through anything but a totally packed load, even if it's something we need cleaned asap, like the vitamix, robot coupe, etc. They have said that after a "certain number of washes", it starts costing us a whopping 9 cents per load! Has anyone ever heard of this before? -- I haven't. I rebutted and questioned the water consumption and the cost of TIME taken out by us higher paying positions to stand and wash our own dishes!!! The jury's still out on that tho....

I would like to make a sort of walnut bread to include on our cheese plate. I am not looking for a supersweet breakfast/coffee cake type bread, rather one that is more savory, to complement the candied nuts, rhubarb chutney and quince paste currently on the plate with four cheeses. (It could also be maybe a walnut-fig bread or somesuch... you know what I'm going for...) I know I have had similar in another restaurant or two, but I can't seem to find anything even close, searching through all my books, the library, and the internet. Does anyone have any advice on where I might look, or perhaps have a recipe to share?

Specifically what dessicant are you all using in your storage containers? and from where?

No, not boring. As Annie says, it's always interesting to hear how other pastry people's day are... what they do, the volume, the preciseness, how many people it takes to do what task... all fascinating stuff! I remember my first restaurant job, as full pc. I remember perspiring so much -- wondering HOW MUCH HOTTER CAN I GET? The fact is, I now realize, I was out of shape to begin with, the walkin was one flight down in the basement, and I was hustling like no tomorrow! I wanted to be the fastest, smartest, best pc they ever had. I worked circles around everyone else. I finally got used to it, still worked my butt off though, that never changed. I prided myself on running up the steps, sometimes two at a time (I have long legs). My newest job (the last 2 weeks) is in a brand spanking new kitchen. The bad part is, the whole place is VERTICAL. I must go down (and back up again) THREE flights of stairs/floors to get to the walk-in. Yes, the idiot who designed it is a Moron (capital M), and I hope he goes to Hell's Kitchen in his next life, where he only runs up and down stairs all day. That first job is looking better and better every day! LOL I am interested too in your brioche/custard/flexi thing. Can you explain more in detail what it is? Is the flexipan a full sheet, indiv molds, what exactly? And you bake off, depan, then what? How stored, and where does it go, and what do they do with it when they get? Maybe this is a standard catering recipe... just not familiar with it/the process. thanks, and good luck!