simdelish

I can't believe they canned Hans!!!! That said, with the choice of the boys or Deborah... just watching their 'back home' video... hands down no contest!! Deborah struggling in her little kitchen, and the boys are cooking, handling huge parties, running a catering business and cafe as well.

I just had a nervy experience... we had dinner rez for 7 pm...it was not at a fancy place, but it was in Georgetown (DC) so there is frequently lots of walkin traffic, that's why I made the rez. The hostess stand is right up front, smack in the middle of restaurant, only a few feet inside the doors. Both doors were propped open, as the weather was lovely. My husband pulled right up to the door (M Street --busy street), and as I got out, I could see the hostess looking right at me getting out of the car. I walked in and gave her the name, and she replied she could not seat our party of two until 'everyone is here.' When I told her my husband was parking the car (like a gentleman, so I didn't have far to walk), and didn't she see him drop me off? she replied yes, "but policy was policy." I asked her if I could order a drink at the bar while I waited (hello! I was spending MONEY!!!), she said then my rez would be considered late, and be put to the "end of the list of people waiting for tables." I asked Did this include walk-ins -- people without rez,and she snootily said yes. I chose to stand there instead, and then watched 3 different couples walk in off the street, none with rez. When my husband finally got there (barely 5 min later) the hostess sat us at a table right next to the kitchen door, as all the better tables had been taken! After really fuming, and complaining to the manager on duty, we then had to wait another 10 min or so for a better table to become available.

Jessica Depending on what you are trying to make (how intricate, with crevices etc), and how often you will re-use the mold, you have several options, most of which are mentioned above. Years ago I had to do quicky seashell cake, and didn't even have time to order silicone or go to the craft store for stuff. (this was before the shell molds commonly available today, and even before Rosemary Watson made her beautiful shell molds). I just used extra gumpaste: I pressed the beautiful real shells I had into a pillow of gumpaste, carefully pulled off (I dusted the shells well) and let dry overnite. Next day I used both gumpaste and fondant to quickly press into the mold and release, then let dry enough to dust with colors, and away I went! It was fast, and because the shells were only seen from the front and not the back (as they were propped against the cake, with royal icing coral pieces), it was very simple, and the effect the same as if I had used/made more expensive silicone molds. Interestingly, I thought they would be used one or two times, but can you believe it... I still have these (now along with some of Rosemary's molds) and have used them probably 25 or more times over the last 10 years!

\DC in the summer....swamp humidity here... Ted, are you saying you just put the sheetpan on top of the oven, just during service, and they have to grab from there when plating? The other day, I made a batch of classically shaped tuiles (shaped/curved on a pin). Even with limestone in the box, they did not survive. I would like to make some teardrop-shaped, and then curved up, because I got these cool new bone china plates for dessert, that are teardrop shaped. What can I do to keep these crisp? Also, I intend on making some very small florentine type tuiles, just punched out with a small round cutter, about 1 1/4" -- to be a topper on a small round scoop of ice cream. What advice does anyone have about these?

I'm a Tsunami fan, always have preferred it over Joss. I am not saying Joss isn't excellent, but when I eat out, I also like to have fun, run into friends, etc. I would take my parents to Joss (if they ate sushi, that is) but when I am out with friends, I can get an excellent dinner at Tsunami, including sushi as well as other Asian favorites like the crispy whole fish. By the time I finish, I just stay on and have fun as they crank up the music. Also, Tsunami's sushi bar is still open til 1 am, so you can get a late bite. In most cities, a sushi bar is the place most others in the biz/life show up at to eat after work, and so Tsunami's that place also --with its bar/clublike atmosphere, you can drink, unwind, and eat well to boot. My only complaint is that I am not a smoker, and the bar gets a bit smoky by the end of the evening. Just call me trendy, I guess.

Too bad you aren't closer Monica, I have a very well-used Batman cakepan collecting dust in my storage room. I would have been happy to make you a Batman cake. (Maybe we could have traded okra for cake? ) You technically can't find someone to make you a cake specifically in the shape, as that is a licensed character, therefore a no-no to "sell." That's why places like the Giant only can do a sheetpan with plastic add-ons. There are a zillion cake decorators over in NoVa. Keith probably doesn't have a batman pan, but I know he can direct you to someone who does. Tell him I said so!

After having waaaay too many assistants put cream in the mixer and walk away, only to come back to hear me say "I told you so... never walk away from whipping cream!" --- I'd like to add this tip: that when you have overwhipped your cream and it's all yucky-chunky looking, just add in some more heavy cream, beat a tad longer, and voila, your whipped cream is perfect. No more wasted cream ever. And, it holds longer.

The stabilizers really don't have much to do with texture, only as texture becomes an issue with a product that is more than a few days old(or one that goes through heat shock). If you are going to eat up your ice cream as soon as you make it (or later that day), stablizers will do nothing for you. Stablizers are really for helping with shelf life. They act on the unfrozen portions of water suspended in the mixture. That is to say, they help maintain the desired firmness and texture that is present when the ice cream is freshly made. While some ice creams and sorbets are still fine after a few days, others (depending on their ingredients) will get coarse and ice-y, separate, get grainy and/or syrupy. That's because the water molecules "migrate" to elsewhere in the mix, where they can freeze hard into crystals. The stablizers help keep them (the water molecules) where they belong, basically, and don't let them travel out of bounds and get caught and freeze. It's also really the sugars (lactose in the milk, fructose in the fruit or glucose added as an extra ingredient, but not sucrose) that contribute to the depressed freezing point, and therefore the smooth texture. I find that it's the processing that really makes things creamy to begin with. My sorbets, for example, are rich, creamy and satin on the tongue, yet they are made of nothing more than fruit, water and sugar. But they spin continuously, beating air, lightness, consistency and smoothness into your product. (Which is the whole concept behind PacoJets which don't spin a liquid ingredient, but rather they 'shave' off a frozen ingredient... but that's another lecture ). But if you want to have your ice cream last, or have to deal with heat shock (the term for when everytime you pull out the container to scoop up a serving, or have to keep it in a display case like at the shops), then you need to add the stablizers. HTH

When I lived in MoCo, I made visits to Total in Va probably 4 times a year. My first visit ever, was probably ten or more years ago (and I was ten years younger!): It was mid-morning (after rush hour), and I had my three year old son in tow. As I walked in for the very first time and gathered my cart, I stopped to look at my notes, giddy with delight, and hyperventilate at the vastness of the collection -- wine...wine as far as the eye could see. A kindly voice said "Miss, is there anything you need help with?" I turned to see the legendary white pompadour himself. I began to chat with him, and within minutes, he called for one, then another assistant to help. There were certain things I came for, but also I just wanted to look around, see what's what, with the hopes of picking up a few new things to try. Haft asked for my list, sent one minion off to fill my order, then proceeded to "totally" sweep me off my feet... I sighed when I saw one particularly excellent bottle, don't remember now what it was, but it was in the $40-50, he gave a few quick/quiet motions to another ass't, who reappeared with a corkscrew and 2 glasses, and proceeded to open the wine and serve it to us. The next thing I know, a chocolate bar appears for my son. The next two hours were spent leisurely wandering the aisles with Herbie Haft, a glass of wine in my hand, and a clerk following behind with another cart. Yet another clerk swept off my son and entertained him, feeding him grapes, cheese and crackers and chocolate. Mr Haft and I entered the rare wine room, where he opened two more bottles, one of which was an 82 Latour, and we sat and enjoyed quite a nice conversation about wines, wine regions, travels, his collection, my collection, etc. Finally I begged off, was met at the checkout by my carts magically filled and tallied, my son with a big grin on his chocolate face, and men who kindly took my keys to load up my car. All I did was hand over my credit card. The "babysitter" carried my son out and helped strap him in his carseat. Haft walked out with 2 little gift bags, giving me the rest of the 3 opened wine bottles, and he said "an extra gift" -- a bottle of champagne I had admired, but not purchased. As I drove away, only concentrating on getting home and getting both my son and myself to bed for a nap, my son said "Mommy, I like wine stores. Can we come back here tomorrow?" Needless to say, whenever I returned, even when I only bought a case, I was always recognized and treated extremely well. I never lifted a finger, often had a "personal shopper" to help me, and a few times when I had one of my kids in tow, the chocolate bars always came out. darn, I miss those days!

There are two school of thought: to puncture or not. I used to, but then read not necessary, and I found that to be true, and a time saving step. However, I do bake them at 425 for ten minutes, and then quickly open and close the door, and turn down to 375 for another 10 or 15 minutes, depending on size and color, to dry out a bit. Because I always make mine before I need (2 or 3 days), they do get a little soggy being sealed up and stored. So-- I put them in the oven for a minute or two prior to filling, to crisp them up again. HTH

Oops, sorry, yes you are correct. I immediately thought of cocao butter/fat product, not the emulsifier. (sorry, shouldn't be reading the computer this tired!) According to Micri's website, Harry Wils is the only distributor in the US

Cacao Barry had their own brand, last I remember from ads in PAD

Charlie Palmer will also be doing demos on the 23rd & 24th. I have a copy of the press release from back in December somewhere on my computer... I'll see if I can dig it up and post better details on the Food Culture program.

Oh, believe me, I know that! I never even had a single word about it with him. It was all his underlings, the sous, and the owners that thought it humorous, and ribbed him for it, and kept bringing it up. No problem tho, they think he's gifted, only because he tries new things and reads Michel Bras. He's pretty young, and has found himself in a very good position. But, he's quick to credit others -- he's putting the sous' name on the menu even. btw, I did take a few photos with my new camera, but I haven't a clue yet how to get them moved around in my computer, much less post them here. sorry!

Yes, steve, thanks for the great overview. Many good/valid points to consider. Believe it or not, the owners and the chef have given me the task of finding "what I would like or think I need." I have even found a handful on eBay, some new, some "gently used" by places going out of business. I have been researching the pacojets, and the size appeals to Chef (as well as the option for us to test and experiment, and do specials). As for freezer space, we have a walkin freezer downstairs, and a small service freezer, so the two diff temp thing looks not to be an issue. As for the volume expected, I am still trying to get a handle on that: the dining room, versus the dessert bar, and also I anticipate making frozen product for the 2 other restaurants. I did come across the brand that I used last, the CRM, which is Italian made. But what I loved about it was there were no litte parts to lose, no gaskets, rubber seals, no tiny funnels to try to pour through etc. It's actually specifically a gelato maker, but let me tell you, it made the best ice cream ever (as well of course as gelato,sorbets etc). Here is a picture. It makes about 4-5 qts, is easy to clean, and the only removable parts are big enough to go thru the DW: the paddle, the clear lid, and a stainless lip at the base of the extruder(which i just run under hot water). (I actually only washed the lid once every week or so.) I just rinsed it out, and ran sanitizer though. No muss, no fuss. I called my last boss and he said he had researched it thoroughly, and bought for those reasons. (and he is a major tightwad). I never once had it serviced in the 1 1/2 yrs I worked for him. I asked, he said it has only been serviced 3 times in the last 5-6 yrs! I have not heard too many compliments on the Taylor brand. I also came across a Ross BA-4. Anybody familiar with? Roughly $6500. Question on PacoJet: is there only the one size beaker? One liter (actually 1.2) or are there bigger beakers or models? I think the best of all worlds is to do like you Steve, and have one Paco, and one batch freezer. Of course, I don't think we could spring for both now. But, my feeling is get the batch freezer now (and it's more $), but then 'persuade' the Chef to get a Paco later this year, for both of us , and it would allow greater creativity and quality, which I am sure he would love, once we get underway. any other thoughts?

Just thought I'd follow up on how things went Saturday night....Fabulously! (Whew!) Yes indeed, we had close to 1500 people -- that's the estimate. I had almost 3800 pieces (of which 1300 were various mousses piped into purchased chocolate cups, thank goodness), including: passionfruit curd in filo cups rasp mousse in wh choc, with crushed fresh (frozen) rasp in bottom choc mousse in dk choc cups cappuccino mousse in white choc cups standard choc glazed cream puffs(filled with diplomat) caramel pecan tartlets with choc ganache cheesecake bites w/ dulce de leche top raspberry macarons with pistachio bc filling shards of almond toffee dipped in choc perfect little layered almond petit fours with curly fancy M's piped on top (first letter of restaurant name) all with perfect little garnishes as well, of course The desserts were the hit of the whole party. According to the servers (who reported what the guests said), the owners, and even the chef, the desserts were better than the rest of the food(which included things like spearfish tartar with house-smoked chipotle aioli on taro root chips, and candy stripe beets with point Reyes cheese and candied walnuts -- not too shabby). Supposedly guests kept asking the servers 'who made these fabulous sweets?' "where did they come from?' etc. All very nice, but these people seemed awfully easy to please, from my perspective. The few times I came up for a glass of champagne, and circulated with a tray of goodies, I was practically attacked with questions like 'will these be on the menu?' -- to which I proudly said "you ain't seen nothing yet!" People also remarked "you're not from around here, are you? where did you COME from?" LOL Anyway, it was all very glam, with the search light trucks, red carpet, velvet ropes, photographers and cameramen, big bouncers, to protect the celebs and vips. But as the night wore on, there were more gorgeous, elegantly dressed (it was black tie) but wasted people than I have ever seen in one place! The place has been hotly anticipated for some time, so I guess everyone was psyched. The champagne finally ran out at 12:30 (party started promptly, in full force, at 7 pm and the desserts came out at 9). The servers and bartenders even tipped me out (which has NEVER happened before to me, as a BOH person), as they said all people talked about were the desserts, so it made them look good too. Funny story: they had made a big blowup of the menu and place on an easel by the front door, and it listed the whole menu, (firsts, mains, small plates) centered, with the desserts last. And then at the bottom, in big letters my name, and then Pastry Chef. No other names. They forgot to put the Exec's name on! thanks for everyone's suggestions, and good vibes (and thanks Malawary for coming for a few hours on Friday to give me moral support!)

Thanks all, for the great suggestions. I now have a nice file on this subject. Just thought I'd check in P&B for a sec, and update you on things. As of 3 days ago, the rsvp list jumped to 800, then the next day 1000, and as of yesterday(Thurs) afternoon it was at 1350 -- and that was still 48 hours out!The city has now said they will close down the block to traffic, as the party is expected to take over the whole block. My chef also asked on Wed for my full menu for the restaurant as well. I actually didn't intend on finishing that (or even worrying about it!) until after this party. (I did ask him "How long did you work on YOUR menu?" He reluctantly admitted 8 months, so I said "and I get 24 hours???") So that was yesterday's distraction...but I got it done. Needless to say, but my game plan for the opening party has changed its direction just a tad. Right now I've got about 2000 things completed, and in the next 24 hours, hopefully another 1000 pieces will be finished. Not quite the complex goodies I had in mind, and still having to do this out of my home, and with a very limited number of sheet pans which I keep having to shuffle and re-use, and schlep things back and forth between my house and the restaurant, which is still surrounded by construction trucks (which makes it all take 10 times as long to do everything!), but at least I'll have something sweet for guests to nibble on. At this point, it's whatever I can do, and what I can't, I can't worry about. Just say a little eG prayer for me! will try to check back in on Sunday, and report how things went. Thanks again friends!

OOOOOHHHHH La LAAAA! Sign me up! Ted, let's say we ditch our families for a month and go?!? LOL

My thoughts exactly as I read this! All career changers in culinary school should read this! But of course the schools would never let them see such a thing... Reality check-mate!

Your post surprised me. Clearly you are feeling unsure of your future, and your past 2 gigs (miami and the nowclosed place) have left you questioning how best and where to go. You most definitely are selling yourself short! You have already accomplished more than the average grad does within at least 2 yrs after. I just can't see you going back to school for an overall pastry program like the one at FPS. Chefette hit the nail on the head: you have to look at the ROI. For you to take that money, and time (not making money) (NOT to mention-- sitting through probably 3/4 of things you already know)... that doesn't make sense in your case. Yes, Ewald's classes are advanced, but not all of them. Start with a less advanced course, and then move along up. The thing with much of the stuff you learn with him, is that you idealy need to go use it, have a way to practice and do what you've been taught. Absolutely tho, his classes are, without a doubt, superlative. I don't know what hotel payscales are, but you need to figure that out in your considerations. Hotels are great places for learning, and moviing around. I think using/contacting/researching someone like Nightscotsman would be a good gauge to start with. Where does he fall on the scale? how pigeon-holed or not is he in what he gets to produce? Certainly he came well-educated, and landed in a great spot to learn and advance. But at the same time, I don't believe he's doing (just yet! ) the chocolate centerpieces. Yes, with your experience, coupled with a FPS degree, you ostensibly would hope to land a bit higher up the scale, but is that increment worth 6-9 months and $20L less in your pocket? Say even, if you were to take a job (not in your town, you would relocate) for less pay, but great experience and definite chance of moving up, without even spending for classes, then you are looking at only a "cost" of say, half the FPS tuition, right? I have seen cases where a good pc will move up(and out) higher, leaving the ass't pc in the best postion to take over. (that is, of course, if the ass't has the ability). In your case, you no doubt would, because of your past experience. I almost took an ass't job at a very prestigious place for that exact reasoning. i figured when and if the pc left, I would be in good stead. Now, only months later, I have heard back that the pc is taking a leave, and considering other options. Another person working there told me this PC had actually remarked that she wished I had taken the ass't job afterall, because she knew she could have easily looked to me to take over in her absence, and maybe even leave the job altogether, in good hands. Gosh, Ted, if I had 6 or 9 months, the ability to go someplace else (short term or just travel), I would definitely stage (in NY or even Europe) a few places. and then I would complement with a few of Ewald's or FPS's short specialized classes. I think those stages can help open doors for you, not to mention getting more "individualized" OTJ training. since you are eventually willing to relocate, those things (experience of stages and classes) would make you more attractive, imo, coupled with your existing experience, than you(right now) but with just a pastry degree added. I think you have already gotten yourself to a spot that most grads won't be at for another 2-3 yrs.

thanks akwa, those sound great! The cuisine is "modern american" so that pretty much can be anything. There will be several Asian type things, as most of the food will come from the other Asian/sushi place, and the little place also opening next door (we will share basement dry storage and w/i) is Thai. I could do one or two along those flavors, but I really need to be more western. Yes, I like simple but delicious too...my very first thoughts did include financiers and flavored marshmallows. Most people have never had really good, or fresh ones. I love the idea of lemon mousse from the siphons --how fast! But alas, no siphon at home. I suppose I could try to get my hands on one before the week's out, but that may be risky. Remember, I have to make all this stuff from my HOME kitchen; I don't have access to commercial ANYTHING, except to store the finished products in the walk-in of another restaurant. I can probably get my hands on several halfsheet pans, but otherwise, I am pretty limited. I was lost on one thing tho-- excuse my ignorance... by "spoon mounted" I first thought you meant top the gelee with whatever, dropped from a spoon. But then "spoons can be pre-mounted on sheet trays"... huh? sorry, i don't follow I have only worked w/agar agar a handful of times,and years ago, but I love that idea, and would be excited to use. Could you pm me with your agar gelee recipe/formula? thanks, everyone... lots of great ideas. I was really panicky when they first called me a few days ago, hence the frantic original post. My head is swimming with too many details, and I still haven't found an assistant, or an ice cream batch freezer. Will keep everyone posted on what I end up pulling off!

That's exactly what I thought as I looked closely at those pictures. I always felt that's why people came to me, precisely because I not only make great (tasting) cakes, but had the creativity, artistry and ability to hand paint, applique, creatively pipe, or whatever. Hand painting was always one of my specialties, and one that commanded, of course, a higher price. I kinda like the rolled in stripes better, they can be bold or pastel. I like the perfection of the paper stripes, but they overall look too perfect, and therefore 'fake' to me, so I personally have a tendency to like something that really shows 'talent' like the rolled in ones. I don't think you can really charge considerably less for one of these transfer cakes, however. If you can do something faster, then, by all means, good for you. I look at it similarly to any other decorating technique. Some people can freehand (like me) fast, and successfully, and it is beautiful. Other people may be able to achieve the same effect in the end (maybe they are trying to copy another cake), but it takes them 3 times longer, because they measure, stencil outlines, stew over it, etc. It's all in how you work. Question: was that yellow cake with green leaves, and blue & white flowers... was it a yellow fondant, with the white painted on (maybe royal brush embroidered?), or was the cake white originally, and the yellow, green and blue added. (Blue painted over yellow would make green... that's why I ask). Hard to tell from the picture.

As I said, I do have use of the walk-in, so refrigeration is no problem. It's the baking, the storage, no equipt other than my home KA5, half-sheet pans (that's all that will fit in my homekitchen) and regular small tools, and ingredients avail from store. (I do have a big #10 can of almond paste opened in my fridge, however, that I could use) I think I will go with my original thoughts: lemon curd in purchased mini filo shells, caramel/nut/choc tartlets, mini operas (either with mocha or praline), perhaps mini eclairs or cream puffs (I know they are passe, but everybody always loves them), and raspberry or rasp/pistachio macarons. I wish I had a flexipan of a 1" shape -- I would love to do something molded, like a mini panna cotta or chibouste, served on a tiny choc or shortbread disk. Or if the kitchen were operating the fryer, a choc filled fried wonton I thought might be fun... I will try to search for the choc dipped cheesecake bites, CB. thanks all... if any more suggestions, keep 'em coming!

I am bumping this up, as I am still interested in what people have out there. What do you have? Do you like and why? How much does it hold, and what volume do you serve? Anything I should stay away from? thanks

I haven't seen this close-up, only in pictures... so forgive me, I am confused. Is the fondant actually printed? do you have a mirror image you place against the fondant -- does it transfer to the "sweaty" fondant as you said-- and then you pull off the paper? Or are you simply placing printed edible paper right on top of (or against) the fondant, so it is really two things sandwiched together? sorry for the dumb question, but I have read and re-read this thread, and it's not clear... also, since i'm asking dumb questions... just want to get this straight: you use a regular computer printer, but use KK edible ink cartridges and edible paper that just happen to fit the regular computer printer? and how do you clean? can you use the printer in between cake jobs for normal stuff, or must you have a dedicated "edible only" printer? thanks...