simdelish

Several years ago (6 to 8 ?) in D.C. I was doing about 40 or 50 each season for Xmas orders. Back then i think I charged $55, with meringue mushrooms, marzipan holly/berries and a little marzipan mouse, sprinkled with 10x for the snow effect. I had two flavors available: hazelnut praline, or chocolate. All very high quality ingredients, nuts, chocolate, booze, made with French buttercream-- and showpiece look. I only did one size, the jellyroll 10x15 pan. In my restaurant last year, I made a killer one for display on the marble sideboard out front, and then 7 more simple versions which we sliced in the back, garnished with mushrooms and served Xmas Eve as part of special $85 holiday menu. Today, I would probably charge about $100 for the same whole cake. Last year (2003) I got a mailer from an "ok" little bakery in the suburbs-- saved it in my "competition file". I quote: Yule Logs 12" -- $35 18" -- $55 Moist sponge cake brushed with rich liquer (sic) and rolled with your choice of orange, hazlenut (sic) or raspberry buttercream and covered with chocolate ganache and decorated with your favorite Christmas design Btw, his holiday pies on this mailer were quoted at $10.95 for 9" and $15.95 for 10" deep dish (all pumpkin, apple, sweet potato). Pecan Pie only in 9" for $12.95 HTH

Ditto

worth saying again!

Having seen another ad in this week's Post, I called to get the latest info on Indebleu, as I haven't made my mind up about this place. Chef Uday Huja is "definitely out" as I was told, and Vikram Garg is the new chef. Garg has not worked in the States before, the receptionist said. (Does anyone know anything about this guy?) Other than that, she knew nothing, only to refer me to a Post article... They are, btw, having a hiring open house today (Thur), and another one next Tues, for anyone wanting a ride on the "swinging sofas".... for curiosity's sake, I am tempted to go on Tuesday, but as I am already coming into town for dinner at Corduroy that night, I don't want to exert myself too much...

Since you all are bringing enough other stuff, for my "power food" I think I'll just bring LARB along... that tall, tan, blonde, muscular, square-jawed Scandinavian guy...

(with more thought...picturing a balance scale...) Les Dames?.... low-rent?.... Les Dames?.... low-rent?.... I can't imagine Bourdain would actually prefer an evening with "Les Dames" over a Low-rent Bash with us... I mean, come on! Let's get this together! Tony, are you listening?

sounds like my kind of evening...

All you people who love oysters, sardines, anchovies, crispy skin, Taco Bell, slim jims... i love all those things, and would never give you a hard time! Let's hang out together! But that spam n' eggs thing, well, i started to get sick reading it! (Imagine him green) The thing my friends give me a hard time about? Cocoa Krispies. Maybe it's just childhood memories, (or those college 2 am munchies ). I have tried to get my KIDS to eat them, but they only gag!

In mid-November, he's doing a dinner here in DC at the Four Seasons, for $150 a head. Recipes from his "Fast Food" book. Let us know how it goes, what you are served, etc. I am trying to decide if I want to pay 150 or not for "fast food his way"...

That's why more men apparently watch her show... That's also why she started out on another cable network, not the Foodnetwork. She's selling sex appeal under the guise of cooking. Me? I can't stand that semi-homebody/maid, what's her name. She gives food (and good cooks) a bad name. Also, I can't watch Sarah M for very long. She drives me crazy. Seems nice, just can't watch her. Give me Julia, Jacques, and Mario I like too.

fyi, from the latest email newsletter: "Galileo Grill Dates Summer may be over, but the Galileo Grill will carry on into October. Enjoy Pork Shoulder, Grilled Chicken, Pork Ribs and more. The next grill dates are Tuesday, October 12 and Thursday, October 14. Grilling starts at 11:45 a.m. and ends when the grill is empty. All sandwiches are $5. Come in and take your lunch to go or have a seat on our courtyard terrace while the weather is still nice. Please note the grill will not be open between October 1 and October 12."

I agree with much of what has been said. I would rather have smaller portions. Usually several bites, even of something fantastic, is enough for me. But then I'm interested in trying something else, a new taste, -- not just filling up on one thing. That's why I like tasting menus (but not the extremely long ones -- I regret those for days later! ) I must share a story: I was out with my elderly parents not too long ago. Not a chain, but not ultra-fine dining either... in the middle, nice ambience, white tablecloth, wine list. The menu had several entrees marked with an asterisk, noting at the bottom that those items were available in "senior portions." When my mother ordered the senior-salmon, I inquired what the price diff was (yes, tacky me, but i was in protect-o mode for my parents). The server said, "oh, none. It's just that many of our older customers find that the portions are too large, and much of the food on their plate goes back to the kitchen(getting thrown out). We now offer the smaller portions so as not to waste." I said, "well, Mother, if you are paying for it, you might as well get the full portion and take the rest home, or perhaps Dad might like a bite or two." And that was that. I was astounded by this "policy" that did not reflect a change in price! Perhaps patrons don't want to be seen taking doggy bags home - that I understand... but they are just making extra money! I should mention that this was actually a private club. So maybe they take suggestions more seriously than the average restaurant. But, at the same time, most private clubs are not-for-profit. (Entrees at this club are not cheap -- $22-36). So why not a lesser price?

Growing up (my kids like to say it was during the Civil War), my mother's big electric stove (Hotpoint I believe), had a huge griddle in the middle, in between 2 burners each to the left and right. It measured about 15 x 20. If you lifted off the heavy griddle, there was a huge burner underneath, for cooking VERY large pots (my mother hardly ever used that). She, and subsequently I too, used it for just about everything, all those things you mentioned Malawry, and more. I really "cut my teeth" on that old stove. (now that i think about it, I cooked on it for over 20 years!) When i returned home after college, to do grad school locally, my parents retired to Fla, and I took over the house, until I married years later, and my husband moved in --and we lived there for 2 more years while building a new house. That griddle was the greatest thing in the kitchen (in addition to the stainless steel counters -- my mom was light years ahead of everyone! -- they built the house originally in the mid-fifties!). The most fun was whenever we had a dinner party or houseguests, people couldn't believe their eyes. Yes, I cannot agree more: The incredible ease with which you can cook on it, not to mention the PERFECTION of the results: "lacey eggs", perfect pancakes and bacon, grilled sandwiches, quesadillas (again, my mom was waaaay ahead of the curve, as we ate things like tacos, quesadillas, and stir-fry japanese dishes growing up in the FIFTIES and 60's!) I had to replace/buy a new cooktop just last year (different house). I was very limited by the existing space, but chose a 45" Dacor cooktop, with an interchangeable grill and griddletop. It's not quite the same, as I now use the grill more, but I long for that big ol' griddle of my youth!

a bit off thread, But John, did you see there may be a plentitude of porktitude in the US soon, with the arrival of acorn-fed Iberico swine descendents On the Trail of Fine Ham

Ossabaw hogs (decendents of Iberico swine) are here... good ham to follow? Great Pork Could Happen Here

NY Times article this morning Is Luxury Cruel? The Foie Gras Divide

oh geeeez, you guys! what torture!!! SO ............ NOT................. FAIR !!!!!!!!! I promise not to miss the next one! p.s. to Jason P: When will eGullet get smell-o-rama?

You might want to ask this on the Baking and Pastry board... I think you will find more people who use a pacojet regularly... that's where we pastry chefs lurk... I, too, want to know more about it, as I have heard great things, but never used it, and am wanting to recommend it to my new employer.

Yes, don't you all remember that scene in "The Restaurant" ? That was one of the things that was so outrageous! He didn't have time to be in the kitchen, because he had 2000 cookbooks to sign! That was the very scene when he fired his chef, Tony... Rocco gave him the heave-ho while he was signing books!

My thoughts exactly. I must share a story... I have been quietly amused by some recent developments of new aquaintances in my new town. For lack of any nicer way to describe these people, unfortunately, I must say they are "nouveau riche". One guy was invited out to LV for gambling with buddies as a lark, and ate the best steaks he had ever eaten in his life. He then returned a month later with his wife. She then got together two other couples for a third trip. Now all these people talk about is LV and planning their next trip. Why? not because of the gambling, but because of the extreme lavish excess, "the concentration of money all in one place" (their words not mine), the impeccable service -- which basically translates to me as attention they don't otherwise get here. The by-product of these jaunts? the new-found appreciation for the incredible meals they have been eating. These people don't know a whit about food, had never heard of any of these chefs, but went to these restaurants because that's what other people with money in Vegas do. They come back to me not even sure of what they ate, or how to pronounce/remember the chefs names, and grill me. They are only now learning/realizing that there are alternatives to Outback Steakhouse, that food can be an experience, incredible, orgasmic, not just sustinance. They are now "researching" other great restaurants in other parts of the country (NY, DC, Chicago, Calif) and are considering going... I live vicariously through them...They ask me now where they should eat next! (I keep waiting for a doggy bag! ) (As the first guy said,"this is waaaaaaaaay better than Outback!!!" Oh well...

Far and away the best selection is Chevy Chase Liquors. Incredible selection, lots of really esoteric stuff. Pricey too, unfortunately, for some of the brews, but it's the only place in town for many of the offerings. Knowing my husband has probably tasted each and every beer there, I asked him if he agreed (which he did most emphatically!). He then offered with a twinkle in his eye "What? do I need to meet someone and guide them through?"

Monday 18th or Tues 19th best for me (Sundays are usually good for me, as that's my day off, but the 17th I have a school commitment. Wed 20th also booked already for family birthday celebration) My stomach is growling, just thinking about what might be on the menu...

Yes, thanks, Tom, for your engaging thread. As I am sure many here agree, it is a treat to "talk" to someone who is so passionate about what they do, as well as getting the inside scoop! Your mention of early on having to interview prospective employees at Starbucks leads me to a much more mundane question than those previously asked: I am between jobs at the moment and curious as to the usual way you find good kitchen help. Although there are always lots of Sunday ads for chain restaurants way out in NoVa, there are rarely any for fine dining places (and most of the ads are looking for servers anyway.) When you (or other Exec chefs) need someone, do you advertise in the Post, food service websites, etc. or do you just ask around? I am sure a personal recommendation for you is always preferable to having someone walk in off the street from an ad... but how does one get that "inside track" -- particularly if coming from out of town, not a restaurant 2 blocks over? I religiously read the helpwanted ads, but feel like the job (i.e. the kind of place) I am looking for, just isn't listed there. How do you, and others like you, look for an experienced sous chef, pastry chef, sommelier, etc. ? (I am not talking bushelp, dw, servers etc.). Thanks for your insight. --------- [Hi simdelish. I think Tom has sort-of wrapped up this chat although he's certainly welcome to reply to this (we're not letting him give up his eGullet screen name). I see you're going to the Corduroy dinner, so maybe you can ask him about this there? Rocks.]

sorry, one last thing, as an example of how technique alone can make a difference: This is a case of EVERYTHING else being consistent: the ingredients, the person measuring the ingredients, the kitchen temp, the oven temp, the time in the oven, etc, -- only the "operator" was different. On the second to last day of my last job, I was "training" my temporary replacement. I had measured out and mixed up my (weekly batch of) absolutely fantastic best-ever choc chip cookie recipe, up to the last point of folding in the flour, scooping and baking off the cookies. I told my trainee EXACTLY what I wanted her to do... of course she didn't listen and I saw her mixing the flour to death (and with the paddle!!!! ). She also was a very sloppy scooper, and kept stirring the dough everytime she scooped. Although she baked them at the prescribed time in an oven that I had set, she also did not remove the cookies to a cool surface like I directed, but left them on the hot sheet pans. The result? a completely different looking, and tasting, cookie!!!! They had puffed way up in the oven but then sank horribly upon cooling, getting all wrinkled. They were spread out more, with uneven shapes/edges, hard, flat, overbaked and dried out. Ugly for sure, and almost inedible, to my standards. Needless to say, I refused to serve them on my last day... giving them all away to the staff instead... It was funny how everyone said how horrible they were, and how they all were going to miss "my incredible cookies" when I was gone!

Gosh, there are several things that may be going on with your cookies... I'll try to tackle a few briefly. Having one of your recipes would help in pinpointing specifically, but I will make comments that I think everyone would appreciate hearing, as they apply across the board... Cookies, as simple as they may seem, are interesting in that they are like a microcosm of baking in general. (that's not my idea, I heard Shirley Corriher say that in a lecture once, and it has always stuck with me.) Each ingredient has very specific purposes, and due to the very low moisture added, each role these ingredients play becomes magnified. Therefore, a slight deviation in balance or changing the ingredients makes a much bigger difference in your end result than it would in, say, a cake. Sugar does several things: sweetens, flavors, tenderizes by weakening the gluten structure, adds volume which affects grain and texture, adds color (more sugar means browner finished product), retains moisture, and also acts as a creaming agent (with fat) and a foaming agent (with eggs) -- both the latter creates friction and thereby trapping air cells--basically acting as a leavener too. Specifically, in a cookie with high sucrose (granulated table sugar) as well as low moisture (which all cookies have) and no acid to balance,-- the cookies will be hard and crispy as the cookie cools because the sugar crystallizes. Other sweeteners like brown sugars, honey, corn syrups and molasses contain more moisture, acids, and other types of sugars (invert, fructose, glucose etc)which chemically alter your final product. That's why cookies made with these sugars are "chewier" and often get soft after sitting. (altho baking ANYTHING too long will make it crispy! ) The acid in the leavener (in the case of baking powder) helps the cookies to bake faster, and spread less, but won't brown as well. Baking soda (a neutralizer) is therefore often added not for leavening, but for browning. The type of fat used is also a consideration. Butter (which is about 15% water) will spread more because it melts faster, therefore creating a flatter, crisper cookie. (The water is not trapped, and so leaves the cookie). Using regular shortening creams well but also makes for less spread, because it stays the same texture/shape longer as it is melting. Although it is 100% fat, it "holds" the water in. Going one step further, by using a high ratio or emulsified shortening holds even more water, (which is why it's used in icings) and will create a moister, finer textured and puffier cookie. That why you will often see cookie recipies that do half reg shortening and half butter, which is what i prefer, so you get the right balance, size and spread, because of the handling qualities of shortening -- but also a good taste from the butter. Flour can also affect your cookie. Different flours absorb diff amounts of water. A cake flour or low-protein flour like White Lily doesn't soak up water and will instead steam, creating soft, tender, puffy cookies. Lo-p flours are also often bleached and slightly acidic, which helps the cookie to spread less and set faster. A high protein flour absorbs the water, making the cookies drier, crisper, but also holds together better. Holding together better is important for making chewy cookies. So you can see the importance of balancing/counteracting all the ingredients in your recipe. (Hi-p flour also makes a cookie darker upon baking too) If the moisture (water) gets to the flour, before the flour proteins are coated with fat, gluten is formed. This will make your cookie less crumbly. One note on why I keep mention browning: If something browns less, it "appears" to be not cooked as long. If it browns faster, by having more sugar, baking soda, or a hi-protein flour, then you assume (by sight) that it is "done" more, thereby taking it out of the oven sooner. In your case, by halving the sugar, you are essentially "waiting" for the cookie to brown (which will take longer with less sugar), therefore you may have the tendency to leave it in longer until it's the "right" color, but ends up being a drier cookie. Eggs create a delicate balance. They "set" the cookie while baking. The right amount puffs the cookie up, but too much moisture makes it spread. The whites will dry a cookie out more, therefore enough sugar is also needed to make up for the dryness. Technique also plays a part. That is probably the number one reason why when you give the same choc chip cookie recipe to 5 people -- they all turn out different!!! When I make to be what I consider the perfect cookie-- that is moist and chewy in the inside but crispy on the outside-- I handle very carefully. I beat the sugar and eggs in the mixer (but not too long, don't want too much air, as that will make your cookie puff way up, then sink as it cools), but I ALWAYS add the flour by hand and then DON"T OVERMIX. (I also add the chips and the flour at the same time, so that I stop stirring as soon as the flour has barely disappeared. I also do my choc chip cookies, for instance, in a tad lower oven, but leave in longer to make sure they cook enough, but then watch them carefully, remove them just as soon as the second they are done. Then I DON"T LET THEM COOL ON THEIR BAKING SHEET. I remove them to another cool sheet instead. This stops the retained heat from baking the cookies any longer, which will dry them out and no longer be a chewy cookie. One last thing, as far as the role eggs play, they are VITAL. Do not omit!!! 1)They are a binder for your dough/batter. 2)The are the moisture in your dough. 3)They contribute to the leavening by incorporating air when beating. 4)The protein creates the structure (when it works with the flour --see above). Not to mention 5,6,7)adding flavor, richness and color. (Eggs, in too great a quanity, tho, will add toughness, which is why fat and sugar are needed to tenderize. again, proper balance) So much for your mini-lesson in chemistry. Hope this wasn't too confusing, but as you can see, cookies really are not as simple as they seem. The good thing is that everybody likes them different... so whether they are crispy, puffy, or chewy, someone is bound to love them! (edited to add before posting: while I was writing this, the eG server was down, and I saw that Wendy had also replied at the same time, but getting her response in before the downtime. Sorry if I have repeated any info already mentioned by her)