mikeycook

I am currently enrolled in the Institute of Culinary Education Culinary Management program in New York City. I am looking into Culinary Arts programs following graduation in September in and around New York, but would also like to consider programs in France (Paris, Lyon, Southwest... just about anywhere). One of my main interests is in charcuterie and I was hoping someone could tell me about some of the better charcuterie programs in France. I am particularly interested in learning to prepare and age hams and dried sausages. Can anyone point me to some information on culinary programs in France that are particularly strong in charcuterie? I am interested in full-time programs as well as shorter-term intensive programs.

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes. I think the blood sausage at Les Halles is excellent (they make their own).

For California Pinot Noir, I am partial to Saintsbury (Carneros).

I love raw oysters, but my favorite cooked oysters recipe is Jasper White's Oysters w/Pancetta and Leeks (from Cooking from New England). Basically, you dice and cook pancetta until almost crisp. Add a little butter to the pork fat and sweat the leeks in it under tender. Next, make a mixture of equal amounts romano cheese and bread crumbs. Open your oysters and put some of each mixture on top (pancetta/leek first), then brown them under the broiler and serve with lemon wedges. I have served this several times and it has always been a hit (to me, pork and shellfish is an unbeatable combination... unless you're kosher.)

In the under $25 range, I am always fond of Saintsbury (the straight Carneros label, not Reserve or Garnet). Burgundies under $25 might be a stretch (for good ones), but the premier crus from Beaune by Jadot are usually reliable for the money (may cost you a little more than $25). Perhaps someone else can suggest values from the Cote de Nuits (a whole thread on Burgundies under $25 might be a great idea... unless it already exists.)

I think Bouley is very romantic. (My wife would agree.)

BondGirl, I know I am late for this thread, but congrats on giving it a try. I, too, have a business background and am looking into options in the food industry. I am taking the Culinary Management program at the Institute of Culinary Education as we speak. It was the only management-oriented program I could find among the major NY schools and I am taking it during the evenings (as I still need to work during the day.) It is oriented around building a business plan and many of the issues discussed here have been discussed in class. If you have the time in your schedule it might be worth a look. They have multiple schedule options (i.e. days, evenings, etc.)

I think Henckel is a fine knife, but amongst the German knives, Wusthof is still considered king. I think Henckel suffers by comparison. I use a 10" Henckel at our apartment and a 12" Sabatier at the house. I bought the Sabatier because I wanted to try a carbon steel knife. So far, it has met my expectations. Easier to create a sharp edge, but tarnishes very easily. When I buy my next knife, I will probably buy Japanese, but not ceramic (have been coveting the Masamotos at japanese-knife.com). To me, the biggest problem with using a variety of chef's knives is that I cut myself more often because it takes a while to get used to a knife. When I moved from a 8" to 10" Henckel, I cut myself more often because I wasn't used to the size and grip. Same when I added the Sabatier. If I wasn't becoming a knife junkie, I might just stick with my 10" Henckel and save some skin and blood.

I would certainly accept Coates' estimates of Burgundy over Parker's, but I am a sucker for the Rhone, so it's hard for me to hate Parker too much. I just think his comments come off as petty and it has soured me on reading him. He is obviously very accomplished. His comments often make him sound like a spoiled child who is not being heard enough. I have rarely seen Parker disparage other reviewers (he usually saves it for wineries.)

I have to say... that is a really interesting choice. Does the bottle come with a soundtrack by Philip Glass?

Wow... does anyone have a picture of Grimes' wife?

I think there is far too much concern about the impact of ratings. I would rather have multiple sources of ratings (whether stars or points) with tasting notes than not have them, as that way I can make my own choice about what to drink and have a variety of research make that decision. Certainly people get overly excited about high ratings and top 100 lists, particularly wine newbies, but tasting notes in Parker and Wine Spectator are a great source of discovering new wineries. Wine stores can be a good source, but usually they carry what they carry. The better wines are sometimes only available in restaurants and that can prove an expensive way to try a new wine. I prefer to read about a large variety of wines, choose a few I like, buy and drink them, and see if I agree. If I agree, I am more likely to have confidence in the ratings. If I don't, I am not likely to use that source again. Regarding Clive Coates, could he be any more jealous of Parker's success? This is far from the first comment I have heard from him disparaging Parker (not that some criticism isn't justified, but it often comes across more as bitterness... he's like the Jeremiah Tower of wine.) To me, Coates is just another source who should be listened to or ignored based on your own experience and tastes.

I don't know the proper technique, but I use a rectangular stone inherited from my mother and sharpen my cleaver the same way she does: put the stone on the counter and drag the cleaver back and forth across it, alternating sides. My cleaver (a Henckel) is only sharpened on one side, so I just sharpen on that side, holding the knife at a 20 degree angle to the stone. Thereafter I just use my honing steel on that one side. The proper technique is to start at the base and move to the tip in one motion across the stone (at 20 degrees), with one hand on the handle and the other further up the blade. It definitely takes practice (sometimes I still screw up).

just curious, what sorta cuts does a 12" really come into play? I've managed fine almost ALL the time with a 6" Santoku, occasionally wishing for an 8" blade, but can't find an excuse to buy my 11" Chef's Knife. So I wanna have a reason to buy a 12" blade. To be honest, I wouldn't call a 12" necessary, but, to me at least, a 10" is. I use it to cut everything from a clove of garlic to a large melon or squash. One of the benefits of a larger chef's knife is that the blade isn't just longer, it's wider, which makes it easier to control when cutting through larger items. Also, a lot has to do with the size of your hands. I have large hands and it is much more comfortable putting my thumb and forefinger on a wider blade (and safer, too). Depending on the size of your hands, you may or may not feel comfortable with a larger knife.

Last Night - Broiled Rabbit w/Aioli - Panned Spinach w/Garlic

Fresh Direct now has Bluefoot and Yellowfoot mushrooms, neither of which they have had before (to my knowledge.) I bought some Bluefoot (never had them before, but thought I would give them a try.)

I took a knife skills class at ICE (Institute of Culinary Education) and they taught to get the largest knife you can handle and, to newguy's point, use it for almost everything. I upgraded from the 8" Henckel I got with my knife set to a 10" Henckel for our apartment. I needed another knife for our house, so I bought a 12" Sabatier Au Carbone (Carbon Steel). I have been much happier with the larger knives and use them for almost anything (except paring). I have wanted to get a Santoku, but now they seem too small. Do they make any bigger than 7"?

I keep a few cases at Chelsea Wine Vault (a Wineaccess member) in Chelsea Market and they told me that wine can be shipped into New York to a business (i.e. Chelsea Wine Vault) but not to a home. I have gotten wine from Brentwood and WineBid delivered there as well as wine I sent from California (the wineries are reluctant to ship, but independent shippers are less so.) Oh, and to keep consistent with the thread, I had the Bollinger Grande Cuvee NV for New Year's and found it very nice (very dry).

As far as packaged stuffings are concerned, I would recommend Bell's stuffing over Stove Top, as Bell's is made to be cooked inside meat (unlike Stove Top, which is meant to be cooked as the name implies.) While I make my own stuffing most of the time, I feel very comfortable using Bell's when I don't feel like it.

Was primarily reading Gagnaire: Sweet and Savory, which I waited for for months, but got 3 new cookbooks for Christmas: 1. French Laundry Cookbook 2. Balthazar Cookbook 3. East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube

I never hesitate to recommend my current long-time favorite, The Cooking of South-West France by Paula Wolfert. To top things off, Paula is an active eGullet member. My second favorite would be Cooking from New England by Jasper White.

My goal for 2004 is charcuterie. In addition to trying new methods for confit and sausage (at least new to me), by the end of the year, I would like to lay down a ham that will cure for at least a year.

I appreciate all of the replies. The refrigerator is pretty cold. If it has an discernably bad smell I will obviously throw it out, but I will report back.

I went to Citarella on Friday, just to see if they had fresh goose. I found that they did, so I asked the man behind the counter how long I could keep it in the refrigerator without freezing it. I asked if I would be ok until Christmas day. He said it was not a problem. He only recommended I remove the bird from its plastic bag and leave it in its deli paper. I was surprised it could keep this long, so I asked the question again and got the same answer. So I bought one (12 lbs.) Does anyone know if this is ok? I know duck can stay longer in the fridge than, say, chicken, and I have seen recipes that call for leaving the duck in the fridge uncovered up to 3 days to dry it out (such as Terrance Brennan's Duck l'Orange). Would a goose be the same? Is 6 days in the fridge just too much? This is my first goose and any help would be appreciated. I can always get another if need be.

I never really thought of 1988 as that tannic a vintage, nothing like say 1986. I actually like both, but it's the '86s where I still have my fingers crossed re there being fruit left when those tannins subside. I have had similar concerns. I still have a number of 86s I haven't tried yet (Gruaud Larose, Latour). I will say, however, that I have had the Chateau Talbot twice and it definitely does not disappoint on the fruit count. One bottle was still a little closed, but the other had the most amazing fruit, almost like a rich strawberry. I had it a couple of years ago and it is still one of the best single bottles I have tasted. It leaves me optimistic for other 86s, especially the St.-Juliens.