mikeycook

I grew up on Land o' Lakes but I stopped using it when someone told me at contains growth hormones (Is this really true? Obviously I haven't been affected by it, but do I really NEED growth hormones in my butter?) I used Breakstones for a while, but I now use primarily Celles sur Belles, which comes in large rolls for $5.99 at my local market (Morton Williams, Bleeker/LaGuardia, NYC). and tastes better than any of the commercial domestic butters I've had. I have also tried Lurpak, which is good, but the European butters are so expensive for general use (Celles sur Belles is more than LOL, but still affordable.) The only downside to Celles sur Belles is, if you are used to measuring your butter by cutting individual sticks, the rolls can be an adjustment. For bread and croissants and some of the best eating, I prefer the butter from Ronnybrook Farms (it is always a favorite for brunch.)

I am really pleased to see that at a lot of the top Italian places, the approach is starting to change (certainly places like Babbo and Felidia do not suffer this problem), but I guess it takes a long time to change restaurant culture. I am a relatively young male (34) and look even younger (around 25) and have certainly had my share of sommeliers, maitre d's and waiters who have assumed I know nothing about wine. This is usually a situation that is quickly rectified once we start talking (unless they know nothing about wine.) However, I have had my share of disgusted looks after rejecting a corked or otherwise unacceptable wine (perhaps I should say, "Why don't YOU taste it?") One thing, however, that I think contributes to this is the number of customers who return a wine simply because they don't like it. I have been out to dinner with people who have ordered a wine they chose and they then realized it was not a variety or style they liked, or was not as great as a similar wine by another producer. They then insist on getting another bottle and not paying for the first (it is truly embarassing, but a lot of restaurants will comply in the name of good service.) Perhaps it is because the average restaurant patron knows little about wine, but to me, this is like ordering a dish you have never had, not liking it (even though there is nothing "wrong" with it), and expecting it to be replaced comp. I wonder if these same people return wines to the liquor store and demand a refund if they don't like them. I make it a rule that if I choose the wine, I will accept it unless it has a real problem, such as being corked or otherwise spoiled. If those at the table don't like it, it is my mistake and I order a new bottle. If I order a $30 Bordeaux on a restaurant menu, I set my expectations accordingly (some people expect every Bordeaux to taste lake a first- or second-growth.) If I order a varietal or style I have never had before, I take that into account (if I just don't like it, that is my problem, and I expect to pay for it.)

I'll be honest and say I can't afford some of the "top" cabs, like Screaming Eagle, Araujo, etc. However, of the ones I CAN afford, some of the ones I like are: Phelps Insignia Arrowood Stag's Leap FAY Chateau Montelena Whitehall Lane Reserve (most underrated, IMHO)

Essentially, I agree with you. (I'd also be willing to consider The French Laundry a French restaurant as well.) This makes me wonder how anyone can say French cuisine is a thing of the past in New York. It's seriously being challenged worldwide, but not by followers of the Atkins diet and that challenge is late in coming to New York. Consider me to be in resounding agreement. And apparently the Times agrees.

Personally I have always felt Bouley to be an essentially french restaurant (if you had to pick a style) and his work experience in France (under Verge, Bocuse, Robuchon, etc.) and the U.S. (Le Cirque, Le Perigord, La Cote Basque oddly enough, and Montrachet) seem to reflect this.

Leek and Potato soup Roast Chicken with Sherry Green Peas with Butter and White Truffle Oil

If I recall correctly, I think I got my method from you. Think I will try my crock-pot next time.

I have never tried, but can't see why not. Anyone tried this?

I won't claim it's the "best" way, but I usually put the skin and fat in a cast iron pan and heat it very slowly with a little water until all the fat has been rendered (the water quickly evaporates.) You can easily tell when there is no more fat to render. You wind up with delicious cracklings as well.

Actually, there appears only to be 5 "Extraordinary" (4 star) restaurants in the NYT database: ADNY, Bouley, Daniel, JG, Le Bernardin. Lespinasse was a 4-star at the time of its closure. NYT Best Restaurants List (note, this list is pretty outdated, there are quite a few closed restaurants on this list and many new ones aren't on it, or have upgraded/downgrade ratings since this was done) In The Fourth Star, they refer to the fact that generally only 4-5 restaurants hold the 4-star rating at any one time. Notice all of the 4-star restaurants are French?

Oh yeah, it's all Atkins' fault. =R= You would think the Atkins craze would affect Italian restaurants more than French. My understanding is that pasta is just about the worst carb (worse than rice, potatoes, and bread.)

Not to stereotype, but I have had "vintage switch" problems at a lot of Italian restaurants in NYC, particularly mid-priced places without sommeliers. I have always been the one that notices. I have begun to suspect that some of these restaurants don't care enough about wine to care what vintage is being served and assume that one is just as good as another (perhaps they have not caught up to the advances in Italian wine over the last decade.) They probably don't want to have to update the wine list regularly, so when the new vintage comes in they just start serving it.

I will say, however, that I hope someone can save those beautiful murals.

Seeing as I was treated more poorly at La Cote Basque than any other place I have dined in the city (not a surprise given its heritage) I will not shed any tears.

I am trying to work my way through Paula Wolfert's The Cooking of South-West France. I am about 1/3 of the way through so far. I probably use about 1/2 of my cookbooks regularly.

Duck fat has far less saturated fats than most animal fats. It may be closer to olive oil than to lard or butter in that regard. I use a recipe from Paula Wolfert for potatoes cooked slowly in goose fat for a couple of hours. She notes that you will wind up with almost all of the fat left over, rather than it absorbing into the food. This is another way that duck/goose fat can be preferable and less damaging. Dean and Deluca sells 28oz gans of goose fat for $10. This is what I use for confit and I always have a ton (too much, really) left over for cooking.

I like duck fine. But it doesn't taste the same as goose. Anywhere to eat some good goose in a restaurant in New York (Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens)? Goose is not difficult to find in NY (because d'Artagnan carries it and distributes it to a number of the better meat markets.) You can even find it frozen at Fresh Direct. Finding a goose that is not frozen, however, is very difficult. It is also difficult to find goose on restaurant menus (except at Christmas). Even d'Artagnan does not have it at their restaurant. For the record, I am a huge duck fan and make it often. My favorite ways are as confit (I make my own) and breasts baked in salt (which gives it a rich, almost prime rib like flavor.) There is a restaurant near my apartment called Apple Restaurant (Greenwich Village) that serves a broiled boneless duck breast that is virtually without fat.

Wine Spectator magazine is always a good source for general articles and tasting notes. The latest Robert Parker buying guide is also a good idea. If you really get into it, you can always expand your library and/or subscribe to Parker's newsletter, The Wine Advocate.

Thanks for the "get well" post. The finger is better today. Just have to keep a wrap on, so I will probably forego cooking today. The potato omelet recipe I used was from Penelope Casas' Delicioso book. I made the Tortilla de Patata Jose Luis (Potato Omelet Jose Luis) from the Jose Luis tapas bar in Madrid, with a slight modification (I had medium eggs, not large, a large potatoes, not medium.) 3/4 Cup Olive Oil 1 Medium Onion, finely chopped (injury culprit) 3 Large Baking Potatoes, peeled, in 1/8 inch slices salt 7 Medium Eggs Heat the oil in a 8- to 9-inch skillet (I used non-stick, although I usually don't. Makes omelet steps easier.) Cook the onion very slowly for about 20 minutes. Skim off the onion and discard. Add potato slices in layers, salting each layer. Simmer the potatoes in oil until tender (not browned), turning as you cook. Remove with a slotted spoon and dry on paper towels. Reserve the oil. (You can also cook the onion with the potato instead and not discard, but I did not.) In a large bowl, beat the eggs lightly and add some salt. Add the potatoes and submerge them using a spatula (or similar). Let sit at room temperature for 10-15 minutes. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil to the smoking point in the skillet and add the potato/egg mixture. Turn heat down to med.-high. Cook until lightly brown underneath. Slide the omelet onto a large plate. Put another plate on top and flip over. Add another 2 teaspoons of oil and heat back to smoking. Slide the omelet back into the pan and cook the other side until lightly browned. Tuck in an rough edges with a spatula. Slide onto a plate again, cover and flip (as above.) Add 2 more teaspoons of oil and cook the omelet for 30 seconds. Repeat for the other side. Slide onto a serving plate. The omelet can be served immediately or left up to several hours and served at room temperature (we ate a little both ways before the ER trip.)

Tonight I made my first potato omelet. I made some shrimp with garlic as well and my wife and I had a little tapas meal. One unfortunate side effect... I managed to give myself a nice deep cut in my middle finger while slicing the onion for the omelet and (after eating, of course) had to make a quick trip to the emergency room. Luckily, no stitches, just a tetanus shot (hadn't had one in a long time.) Also, they apparently have this yellow gauze (called Xeroform gauze) that helps stop the bleeding (beats a Bounty paper towel and scotch tape.) Don't think it's available over the counter, but it would be a nice thing to have on hand just in case.

I love tapas, so how about shrimp w/garlic or mushrooms w/garlic. I used a small cazuela directly on the gas flame (which allows it to come to the table still sizzling) and, although I eyeball it, I will try to approximate a recipe: 1/3-1/2 cup ev olive oil 1 dried red pepper, seeded 8-10 large garlic gloves, thinly sliced 1/2 lb. medium (or, preferably, small) shrimp or 1 1/2 cups sliced white mushrooms Heat the olive oil over medium-high. Add the garlic and red pepper and cook until the garlic starts to brown. Add the shrimp or mushrooms and cook until done. Remove the hot pepper. Serve with rounds of the bread (or let people tear off their own.) I also like chorizo with melted cheese.

Here is the link for English speaking Amazon users. Given the exchange rate, it seems cheaper to buy it in dollars (because Amazon.com has a discount).

I will third the comments on Patria (I know you can second, but can you third?) It's been a couple of years since we've been, but I loved the food. The drinks are good, too. It's one of the few good places right on Park Ave. in that area (although there are several good spots just off Park.)

If you are looking for a change of pace, I would recommend Russian Samovar at 256 W. 52nd Street. They make their own flavored vodkas, which are great if you don't drink too many before the show. Also some good Georgian lamb dishes and other more traditional fare (blini, beef stroganoff, etc.) Le Bernardin is, of course, fabulous, however you would want to get there very early to make a show (it is so nice it is a shame to have to rush out.)

My wife is attending a conference in D.C. in January and we are staying at the Marriott Wardman Park. I would be interested in some recommendations for restaurants while we are there. We usually pick one night to go out to a really nice meal (willing to travel around D.C. and environs -- we will have a car) and the rest of the time we look for nice places within a short distance of our hotel. So, a few questions: 1. If you were only able to choose one restaurant in the D.C. area to go to, say on a Saturday evening, where would it be. This does not need to be near the hotel. 2. What are some of the better restaurants in the area of the Marriot Wardman Park (2660 Woodley Road NW)? We are looking for a range of restaurants (in terms of $$) because we may want to invite friends from the conference (some of whom will be travelling on budgets... and some who will not.) 3. What are some of the better restaurants in Old Town Alexandria? We have friends who live there and will probably try to meet up with them, either in Alexandria or D.C. All types of cuisine are welcomed. Thanks. John