mikeycook

Had brunch for 6 today at LH (PAS) for my wife's birthday and were suitably impressed. When we got there (1pm), it was only about half full, which definitely helped the noise level. Everyone stayed on the brunch menu except me. I opted for the blood sausage, served with mashed potatoes and carmelized apples and ordered a side of fries as well. My mother-in-law (not easy to please) loved it and thought the french onion soup was about the best she had ever had. She ordered the tartiflette for her main course and enjoyed it a lot (not as much as the soup, though.) I split the escargot with her, which was decent. My wife ordered the onion soup and ham and gruyere crepes, which were also good. My father-in-law got the merguez sausage and my niece loved the brioche french toast. As for the blood sausage, it tasted great and was just about the right level of spice and, to me, nothing screams comfort food like blood sausage and mashed potatoes. (A side benefit... they were also selling it at the butcher inside.) I would recommend it as a brunch place, particularly because it was rather low key (I assume much more so than in the evening.) Aside from a number of traditional brunch menu, you could go off the menu for any of the lunch options, which gave a lot to choose them. Next time I might try the choucroute. (This place may give me a broader definition of brunch.)

I dined with my wife at LC over Valentine's weekend. We thought the food was excellent, although there were a couple of errors in service (they were very apologetic and it did not affect our dinner.) Speaking as an american, I appreciated the wine pairings with the entrees, as the quality of the wines by the glass is better than you would find in the U.S. (1990 Beaucastel was my wife's pairing w/lamb). I had the venison and thought the accompanying sauce was extremely rich and satisfying (rich venison stock with port, if I recall correctly.) Of course, the dining room is gorgeous (I love Art Nouveau) and the location is great as well. We would certainly return, but have a few other places we would like to try first (Gagnaire, Guy Savoy, ADPA, etc.) If I go back, I would definitely try the Apicius duck.

I always hated zucchini and other summer squashes. However, after trying zucchini blossoms for the first time earlier this year, I am becoming a convert.

Oooh. I have a lot of goose fat left over from confit. Thanks for the idea.

We are keeping our apartment in the city and will have the house as well, so I am trying to figure out what to keep at the house and what to keep at the apartment.

I used a Wusthof in the skills class and liked it, but it felt similar to the Henckel that I have (and I am not ready to commit to replacing all my knives yet.) I imagine I'll collect a few different chefs knives (I use my large chef's knife almost exclusively.)

I use a combination of Henckel 4-Stars and 5-Stars. My current regular-use knife is a Henckel 4-Star 10" Chef's Knife. We are getting a new house, so I am thinking of trying something different. I am leaning towards trying Sabatier (all I really need is a Chef's knife and a few other knives.) I may try Carbon Steel this time, instead of the stainless.

Yes.

I agree. I do this as well (with and without bacon).

Thanks for the input on the tartare. It says they do it tableside. I have also had the tartiflette, for launch, and agree with the

I have been to the LH downtown and have a fair idea what to expect for the lunch options (confit, tartifliette). Most of the other brunch options (eggs benedict, etc.) don't seem that out of the ordinary, so I suspect I'll order the tartare. Has anyone had it?

James Beard's method was very similar, but included larding one side of the chicken with blanched bacon (on the first up side for the first 20 min). I am sure the bacon is probably a big leap for an ex-vegetarian's first roast chicken (unless he wants to take a BIG leap away from vegetarianism.) But, the bacon provides some more drippings to baste with and keeps the bird moist. I baste constantly (every 8-10 minutes). When you baste, take the chicken out as opposed to basting it in the oven. That way you won't lose as much oven heat (obviously you need to close the oven door while basting.)

Awhile back, I picked up the hardcover of Complete Techniques on a bargain closeout. It's about to come off the shelf. After reading the section in Pepin's book where he talks about the chef who, when sick, would request of Pepin complicated dishes in Pellaprat's Modern French Culinary Art, I was inspired to pick it up. Some of the pictures are pretty far out, but it also has inspired a number of presentation ideas. It also has one of the best collections of egg recipes (with many pictured) I have seen (and I had been trying to come up with new brunch ideas).

Provence-style Vegetable Omelet 4 layers (from top) 1. Gruyere and Pancetta 2. Spinach and Garlic 3. Peppers and Onions 4. Haricot Verts, Button Mushrooms, and Dried Cepes Didn't quite get the layers the same size (you can see from the top picture), but it tasted good nonetheless.

Am going to brunch there on Sunday. Any recommendations?

I have been on a spanish kick recently, mainly Penelope Casas' books The Food and Wine of Spain and Delicioso! Also, Jasper White's Cooking from New England and Henri Pelliprat's Modern French Culinary Art.

Jasper White (Lobster at Home -- great book) lists a lobster melt (w/lobster salad, tomato and cheddar or colby cheese on an English muffin) that sounds great. Interestingly, his lobster salad does not contain celery, but rather cucumber, as well as scallions and a mayonnaise with or without tarragon (depending on your taste.)

Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. I (will probably always be my favorite, since it's the book I learned on.) Julia and Jacques: Cooking at Home (I am convinced all her books are good.) The Cooking of South-West France by Paula Wolfert - Other than MAFC, Vol. 1, the book I have used the most. Ma Gastronomie by Fernand Point - My current favorite. It is interesting to trace his influence through the nouvelle french masters to today's top chefs.

They should certainly keep until the weekend. I just try to remove as much air as possible from the bag. I have certainly kept them longer and they have been fine.

I had never had fava beans and had in fact avoided them since Silence of the Lambs, but when I found Paula Wolfert's recipe (from Andre Daguin) for a cassoulet with fresh fava beans, I became a convert. I now buy fresh favas several times each season and make the cassoulet at least once. I also am fond of fresh favas with just butter, salt, pepper and white truffle oil. This year I might actually try them with liver... and a nice chianti. I have seen fresh cranberry beans, but have never had them before. Pyewacket has convinced me to give them a try.

My mother used to make really good ham salad with red pepper relish. Sorry I can't remember more about it than that.

IMHO, that's a little too much extra stuff on a lobster roll. I would worry that all that mustard, scallions, celery, and basil would take away from the lobster taste.

I grew up on lobster salad, so that would be my vote (I am originally from Maine, raised in NH.) Although I am sure others have good lobster salad recipes, I would recommend two approaches: 1. With just mayo (make your own mayo... it is worth it). No celery. A little lettuce if you must. Cut the meat into small pieces and toss. 2. Melt some butter and toss it with the meat and finely chopped chervil and chives. Either way, a toasted hotdog bun (ideally the rectangular, rather than round) would be my recommended roll.

Jackson Hole (the one at 35th & 3rd) serves a pretty good burger, and although they will ask you how you would like your burger cooked, it will come to the table med to med-well. Someone once told me to have a burger at Cozy Soup & Burger. I no longer like that person. The burger was way too big, not well prepared and greasy to the point of being unedible. Do yourself a favor and skip that place. I live downstairs from Cozy and I agree (although we order a lot of other stuff from there.) Among cheapo burgers, I have always been a sucker for the roquefort burger from Burger Heaven, but I might be alone in that.

Friday Broiled oysters with pancetta and leeks (plus breadcrumbs and parm-regg.) Arctic char in an improvised mushroom sauce (veal stock, madiera, dried cepes, button mushrooms, herbs) Sunday Merguez sausage with peppers and onions (Confess I didn't make the sausage. Used a medley of colored peppers)