TN: Some good ones

[Florida Jim]

1999 Prager, Chardonnay Smaragd:

Reminds me of Chablis without much flesh but also has the floral high tones of many Austrian wines; much different than prior bottles that were nothing but structure, this has solid chardonnay fruit, no wood or malo indications, great cut and even some complexity which matches nicely with a chicken Cesar salad. 13% alcohol, importer unknown (I’d guess a Carolina Wine direct import) and about $20 on sale; I won’t buy anymore but I’m glad I have a couple bottles left.

2004 Artadi, Rioja Orobio:

Very young and showing it but also a character driven Rioja with red plum, dusty black cherry and new leather scents and flavors; a satin textured, slightly spicy, fine grained wine with substantial tannins and a medium length, tannic finish. This needs several years in the cellar but despite its concentration and intensity, it does not come across as CA style. I think this has potential and I will buy a few for 3-8 year storage. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I’ll buy a few more.

2004 Varner, Chardonnay Home Vineyard:

Bright scents of white fruit, vanilla and grapes; a silky texture, flavors that follow the nose and good balance; a medium length, oaky finish. This wine is over-oaked and it’s as simple as that. But the raw materials are pretty compelling and, I think, a little cellar time may make a difference in the overall profile. But I could be wrong. If I want a Santa Cruz Mountain chardonnay, I’ll stick with Rhys. 14.6% alcohol (none showing) and about $40; I won’t buy it again.

2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin:

A really beautiful wine; aromatic, dense yet bright, fresh, ripe fruit, good depth and fine length. Very easy to drink with or without food and ready now. Delicious, thirst quenching, memorable juice. 11% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $12; I’d buy more at that price.

2005 Lapierre, Morgon:

A lighter weight version of the vintage and more Burgundy than Beaujolais; a good wine and it will probably get even better with time in the cellar but there are so many exceptional 2005 Beaujolais that this just runs a second for me. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $18; I’ll not buy anymore.

2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Fleurie:

The essence of black raspberry on the nose with power and breadth; flavors echo the nose with depth, concentration, good grip and excellent length. A tooth-stainer and not near as light on its feet as the 2004 version nor as typical of the terroir – that said, it is a potent, structured wine that obviously needs time in the cellar. Not yet of a piece and fairly closed today. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17; I’d buy it again.

2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Morgon:

Restrained on the nose - a little sour cherry, some blackberry and minerality – pretty closed; tannic and disjointed on the palate but very intense, bright fruit that follows the nose, again its tight; long, dusty finish. Showing every bit as young as the Fleurie (maybe more so) but truer to its terroir and, with air, develops a very nice texture and opens some. ‘Needs a good bit of cellar time. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $15; I’d buy it again.

2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Moulin a Vent:

A very angry wine, tannic, dark, closed and disjointed; not without obvious ripe fruit and extraordinary length (I could still taste it 4 hours after the last sip) but there was no evidence of place or even variety – at first I thought it was Nuits St. Georges. Maybe it was travel shock, maybe it was lack of decanting but, whatever, it’s much too early in its life to make a sound assessment. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17.

Best, Jim