TN: From all over

[Florida Jim]

2004 Dom. D’Aupilhac Lou Maset:

Upon opening, very forward and pretty simple cherry aromas and flavors with hints of salt and meat; evolves quickly into a more complex and interesting wine that has a mineral edge and several layers of red fruit with good length. Not a profound wine but much more than a quaffer. 14% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $10; I’d buy it again at that price.

2003 Cape Mentelle, Chardonnay Margaret River:

Smells of very gentle oak and ripe chardonnay; its full bodied and tastes a lot like chardonnay from Napa but without the overwhelming oak, a little buttery, slightly sour, decent acidity – a sort of sociable wine; medium, slightly flat finish that does show its oak. It’s not objectionable by any means but this will never be something I would buy again or order out – my taste requires something leaner, more intense and racier; this is just kind of diffuse, oaky and affable. 14.5% alcohol (but no heat noticed), imported by Clicquot Inc. and about $20; I’ll not buy it again.

2004 Cuatro Pasos, Bierzo:

From 80 year old mencia vines; Somewhat closed but Chinon-esque on the nose with cranberry, dried herbs and earthy tones; firm and tannic but stuffed with flavors that are mostly in the black fruit register, good complexity, balanced but still showing slightly disjointed; long, drying finish. A wine of character that is authentic to its place and could not be confused with many other wines. Needs a few years in the cellar. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I will definitely buy more.

2005 Tikalo, Albaliza:

65% tempranillo and 35% grenache; ripe fruit smells with a touch of earthiness; about the same on the palate with substantial tannin; medium length finish. A balanced wine from anywhere made of anything – ‘nothing wrong with it but nothing to distinguish it. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $7; I won’t buy it again.

2005 Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent VV:

Obviouslu MaV on the nose; big and very tight with a brooding delivery and a solid finish. Its almost too closed to glean any impressions – not that that ever stopped me – while I think this good wine and has the character of its place and the potentuial to improve, I don’t think it rises to the top of the heap in this vintage’s Beaujolais. But I could be wrong about that so I will buy a couple to cellar. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17; I’ll buy more at that price.

2000 Chat. La Casenove, Côtes du Roussillon Cuvée Cdt François Jaubert:

Big wine with lots of flesh, black cherry flavors primarily and good balance. It does not have any really distinguishing character nor is a flavor profile I find especially appealing. Still the wine is well-made, ripe and smooth and would be good accompaniment to stronger flavored fare. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again at that price.

2000 J. P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos:

A beautiful Chablis nose that is both bright and deep with good complexity and a very fresh aspect; rich in the mouth without hint of wood, mineral driven, ripe fruit, excellent acidity, good balance and real finesse; great length. A terrific example of Chablis, if not the vineyard, with years ahead of it in the cellar even though it is delicious today. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $42 on release; I’d buy more if I could find it at that price.

1997 Louis Michel, Chablis Montèe de Tonnerre:

Actually, very similar to the foregoing wine with a slightly looser texture and a bit more complexity. It gave me the impression that it is fully mature now and that any further time in the cellar should be measured. A delight, as any good, mature Chablis 1er is. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands, price unknown. Thanks Lee.

1997 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos:

A whole ‘nother level – at first I thought this wine was thin but I soon realized that it was just delicate – and considering the vineyard, I wasn’t prepared for that. But it gained weight and focus during the evening and although it never stopped being a feminine rendition of Clos, it achieved a complexity over time that was really something to behold. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands, price unknown. Thanks Lee.

1988 Dom. Chandonde Briailles, Pernand Ile des Vergelesses 1er:

Fresh and firm with excellent intensity, great balance, good complexity, mainly black cherry fruit and some very stony, mineral laden accents; I would have guessed Corton had I not seen the bottle. In no danger of fading, I’m sure this has another decade in the cellar. An eye-opening experience, as I have had very few wines form this area. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Adventures in Wine, price unknown. Thanks Lee.

Best, Jim