Traveling to Bulgaria in July, 2007

[kbjesq]

I'm traveling with a group of musicians to Bulgaria for a three week tour in July, 2007. I'm interested in learning more about Bulgarian food and traditions. I have done some research (lonely planet, Rick Steves, other travel books, etc.) but I'd love to hear firsthand reports of the best/most memorable Bulgarian dishes (and those to avoid, if any). We will be visiting the northwest region of the country for the most part, with a couple of days spent in a fishing village on the Black Sea.

In addition, since I will likely be staying with Bulgarian families during at least part of this trip, I would like to know what is a suitable gift for host families? Are there traditional host/hostess gifts? Thanks in advance for any advice, tips or general info!

[GTO]

kbjesq: I love Bulgaria, the food is fantastic. The few times I have been have been for skiing but I picked up a few tips about the food and culture.

1. Don't be surprised if none of the food you're served is piping hot. Bulgarians don't believe in eating food which is very hot, as it's considered unhealthy or harmful. Most foods are just pleasantly warm.

2. Gift-wise, don't give something overly expensive or elaborate, as it can be seen as an attempt to somewhat undermine your host, embarrasing them.

3. I was told on numerous occasions by my Ski instructor (Who was Bulgarian), that Bulgarian people do not smile, just for the sake of smiling, to be polite for example. So don't think they're being rude if you don't get a friendly smile every 5 minutes!

[PaniniGuy]

I'm traveling with a group of musicians to Bulgaria for a three week tour in July, 2007.  I'm interested in learning more about Bulgarian food and traditions.  I have done some research (lonely planet, Rick Steves, other travel books, etc.) but I'd love to hear firsthand reports of the best/most memorable Bulgarian dishes (and those to avoid, if any).  We will be visiting the northwest region of the country for the most part, with a couple of days spent in a fishing village on the Black Sea.

In addition, since I will likely be staying with Bulgarian families during at least part of this trip, I would like to know what is a suitable gift for host families?  Are there traditional host/hostess gifts?  Thanks in advance for any advice, tips or general info!

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I was going to be working for a Sofia company for a couple of months back in 2003. Before departing i asked our local Bulgarian heritage group this same question. They told me to bring Steelers merchandise... big mistake.

Appropriate gifts are postcards/drawings of your hometown. I also found Bulgarians to be amazed at things they don't normally get - jellybeans for instance. I had some shipped to me - coffee, watermelon, jalapeno, etc. - they LOVED them and were also extremely appreciative of some Sarris chocolate covered pretzels.

At the risk of boring the heck out of everyone, I'll pass on what I did learn from my own experience, which was mostly in Sofia with a couple of side trips.

In 2003, the average lunch cost about US$2.30 and included a shopska salad, a small stew or soup, some bread and a beverage. Can't beat that in Europe for a bargain.

As far as food quality went can't say I had a bad meal in two months (although really stay away from what they call "Mexican"). Then again, can't say I had anything memorable enough to dwell on as a great experience.

Organ meats are big - had brains done every which way you can, including as a pizza topping. Spit roasted lamb also quite common.

I don't recall any specific flavorings, although they seem to use a "savory" mix and fenugreek in a number of dishes. As I was there in Feb/March, root vegetables were very common.

In the street markets, most anything could be found, even in late Winter. Tomatoes and avocados were imported from Lebanon so I would regularly make myself guacamole much to the amazement of my coworkers. I'll note that the Lebanese tomatoes were absolutely phenomenal - about as good as a juicy ripe tomato from our own garden.

The "shopska" salad is found in every restaurant. It's like a US "greek salad" except without the olives. Custom has it that when you eat a shopska salad you must drink a glass or rakia (the local brandy).

I didn't breakfast often, but decent pastries can be found. The quality of coffee wasn't very good (there was a Dunkin Donuts on Vitosha Blvd that was the only place in town with go-cups). I understand several British coffee chains have moved in during the past couple of years.

Speaking of British and breakfast - if you need to find some English-speaking folks, head to Murphy's on 6 Karnigradska. It's the requisite Irish bar, attracting those from every former colony for Saturday football on the big screen. Good Irish breakfast but expensive ($7) for the region. Guiness, of course.

In Sofia, there's a nice wine bar featuring Bulgarian wines that's found in an amusement park complex on the city outskirts. Bulgaria has numerous reds they can be proud of - incredibly inexpensive for the quality. You can buy bottles in any supermarket or small store.

If you smoke (and it seems 99% of Bulgarians do) cigarettes are ridiculously cheap ($1.50/pack in 2003) and you more often than not buy them from stores where the only opening is a cellar window (so you have to get down on your knees to pay).

If you get up to Rila monestary (incredibly beautiful, btw), you'll find yourself in the "home" of bacillus bulgarius, the bacteria that makes yogurt yogurt. They serve it from a stand right outside the monastery. It's chunky and sour and nothing like supermarket yogurt.

End brain dump. Enjoy your trip!

[kbjesq]

Thank you both! This is more useful information than I have found to date. I especially like the jelly beans suggestion. I live in Florida and it was suggested elsewhere to bring Disney memorabilia. Not my style!

As I will be visiting in July, I don't think the lack of hot food will be a problem. I will be visiting the Rila Monastery, and I will look for the yogurt stands. I've heard about the shopska salads and I'm looking forward to those as well as eggplant dishes that have been recommended. I'm not a meat eater so I'll be passing on the organ meats (I know, I know, Anthony Bourdain is disgusted, but if you saw his show detailing his trip to India, he admitted that vegetarian food can be quite good).

I love coffee, must have strong coffee everyday, or my day is all wrong. I'm hoping to find someplace serving espresso or turkish coffee.

Between the not smiling and shaking of the head up and down means no (not yes), I can see where a tourist would get the wrong impression of Bulgarians, who I hear are very hospitable. Thanks again for these tips! PS Rick/Panini man, your post was not boring in the least.

[PaniniGuy]

Between the not smiling and shaking of the head up and down means no (not yes), I can see where a tourist would get the wrong impression of Bulgarians, who I hear are very hospitable.  Thanks again for these tips!  PS Rick/Panini man, your post was not boring in the least.

Glad whatever I remembered might come in useful. Wish I remembered more details.

I'd read about the head shaking and it didn't come into play in my travels. Might be something in the "country". Also found plenty of smiles. Bulgarians might be a bit on the insecure side, but they do know how to enjoy themselves.

I will suggest that if you're there for any length of time, go shopping for a couple of sets of clothes - it's cheap and you'll look like the locals, thus be less likely to be approached by moneychangers that seem to be near every ATM.

There are a number of places in Sofia to get good deals on Bulgarian pottery, which is quite nice. There's a place right at Rila that's a tad higher, but still reasonable. I've got a nice ceramic stew pot and numerous serving pieces from there.

Also - if you enjoy vodka, there are many you'll find in Sofia that you can't get in the US. Moscovskaya (potato) and Zubrowka (bison grass) are a couple I've still got in my freezer that are very good.

Edited February 10, 2007 by PaniniGuy (log)