Landmarc

[SethG]

Some nice stuff about Landmarc in this Sunday's NYT Magazine's food article by Sam Sifton:

The article is, more or less, about "cheating" in an attempt to replicate Landmarc's pork chop dish at home.  Landmarc chef, Marc Murphy, takes Sifton through the process of making their pork chop dish and later Sifton describes his "cheat" for making it at home.  Along the way, Murphy dispenses with culinary wisdom like this bit he let drop as he was salting the chops for the grill: "You want to get to the point with the salt where your relatives are looking at you and saying, 'what are you doing?'"

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I finally got around to reading Sifton's piece this weekend, and I thought the article was really a wasted opportunity. There's nothing wrong with brining pork chops (I always do), and there's nothing wrong with reducing a whole bottle of wine to make a sauce (I believe this is one of the tricks in the first cookbook Bittman did with Jean-George).

But these steps to my mind are no substitute for making a sauce from stock. They are entirely admirable but entirely different techniques. Sifton says making veal stock is a laborious, weekend-consuming chore. Anyone familiar with the eGCI can tell you that this is not the case. By mere happenstance, I made veal stock just two weeks ago in the middle of the work week, and it was easy and quick, because making stock is easy and quick. Then, coincidentally, I made pork chops, and deglazed the pan with a little wine and some veal stock, and I bet the heavenly results I enjoyed were easier and quicker to make, and closer to Landmarc's dish, than Sifton's supposed "cheat."

Couldn't Sifton have written an article which stated that Landmarc has this incredibly popular dish, and that the dish underscores how far you can go with just a few fundamentals? Don't be afraid of salt. Caramelize. And yes, make stock, which is easy to do. And then you too can have restaurant-quality food at home.

Make veal stock for your pork chops, and drink that bottle of Pinot Noir!

Edited to add: mods, if you want me to move this to a new thread, I will. I put it here because Sam posted about Sifton's article here.

Edited January 31, 2005 by SethG (log)

[fauxtarga]

I must say, that reading through the EG discussion on this restaurant more accurately predicted my experiences at this restaurant than any of the reviews out there. Cheers and thanks.

Question - when replicating the Landmarc ice-wine cocktail it's a 2:1 ratio of Ketel One:Hunt County Ice Wine, right? Am I going to run into problems stocking this for personal use because the wine won't keep? What about the Pineau des Charentes? Is that shelf stable?

[NewYorkTexan]

Based on all of the positive opinions, I went to Landmarc last night with a friend.

I agree with the list of accolades in this thread, I will also rave about the two small tables on the balcony. When the weather is nice, it is an excellent al fresco dining option.

[lambretta76]

Sietsema reviews Landmarc for his Counter Culture column in this week's Village Voice:

Marc-Down: Tribeca brasserie features fine food and rewards oenophiles

Chances are you'll find exactly what you want to eat somewhere on the folio-size menu. In the mood for something bar-like and predictable? Order the burger ($14) or the fried calamari with a spicy tomato dipping sauce ($9). Kinky? There's an appetizer of three roasted marrow bones that looks like a miniature Three Mile Island, with a haystack of pickled purple cabbage set between the reactor towers. A generous half-loaf of toasted bread comes alongside; use it not only to mop the liquid tallow, but also smear it with the browned and jellied bits that lurk on the inside circumference of the bones, extracted with a tiny wooden scraper. You want innovative and vegetarian? Try the warm goat cheese profiteroles snuggling a tart, pimento-flavored slaw. In a Breton mood? There's a menu of moules ($13) that, unfortunately, come without frites unless you kick in an additional five bucks. The best one showers the glossy bivalves with big chunks of chorizo and minced onions—yum! The fries, by the way, are superb.

Edited October 11, 2005 by lambretta76 (log)

[bergerka]

I went for lunch while on jury duty one day last week (it's a very short walk from 100 Centre Street over to Landmarc, and they gave us a VERY long lunch).

Sat at the bar, had the prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich (which comes with their fabu pesto on it, plus greens on the side) and a diet coke.

Lunch at Landmarc is wonderful.

But I was too full to eat anything later when I met friends at the Shake Shack.

(ok, not quite true. I was too full for anything EXCEPT a root beer float).

[jgould]

I went for lunch while on jury duty one day last week (it's a very short walk from 100 Centre Street over to Landmarc, and they gave us a VERY long lunch).

Sat at the bar, had the prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich (which comes with their fabu pesto on it, plus greens on the side) and a diet coke.

Lunch at Landmarc is wonderful. 

But I was too full to eat anything later when I met friends at the Shake Shack.

(ok, not quite true. I was too full for anything EXCEPT a root beer float).

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fyi, i have been eating at landmarc from their very 1st day, but haven't been in awhile. glad to see they are still on top of their game. time for another visit!

[oakapple]

Eater reports that Landmarc will be opening a branch at the Time-Warner center.

We already know that former Windows on the World chef Michael Lomonaco will be opening a steakhouse in the former V Steakhouse space.

So presumably Landmarc II will go in the space that Charlie Trotter once planned to occupy. This appears to satisfy the management's long-standing and amply documented intention to bring in a more casual restaurant at a lower price point.

[Sneakeater]

I ate dinner at Landmarc last night and it struck me that this is one of those restaurants that eats better than it thinks, if you know what I mean. Well, you probably don't. What I'm trying to say is that, when I'm not there, it seems completely uninteresting: a dull menu competently prepared. When I'm eating there, though, I remember that the execution is much more than merely competent -- and the menu may not be "interesting", but there's always something on it that I want.

So I hereby apologize to Landmarc for all the unexpressed negative thoughts I have about it between visits.

[murkcury]

The irony of that thought is that those are the kinds of restaurants of which we need more. Solid, dependable, well executed food. Food that doesn't shoot for the moon. A chef who isn't trying to reinvent cuisine. Restaurants like that can be found on every corner in every city, town or village in France, Spain, Italy, etc. Sometimes we need a restaurant whose ambitions are less lofty. New Yorkers need to put more value on these simple, yet satisfying, establishments.

[Luckylies]

I ate at Landmarc specifically to fill my boudain noir craving (Thanks Sneek).

Craving filled. The actual sausage was not seasoned enough. The texture mousselike and a bit less course than the one at Les Halles, but the actual seasoning was lacking, there was not enough spice to bring out the earthy, carnal flavors thant I crave when ordering blood sausage. I just wish they had taken it a bit further, same goes for the carmelized apples, more color please. I'm woefully addicted to the smoked mozzerella fritters (are they fritters?) Anybody know how they make them so light and airy? You think they smoke burrata in house or something then make fritters..someone needs to let me in on this secret. I wish they'd take reservations, I'm not always in a Busters Garage mood (though I do like Grace on a weeknight) just a few thoughts.

[herbacidal]

So wait, as I understand it now,

The Murphys now have Landmarc, Ditch Plains in the former Yumcha space, @ 29 Bedford, and an in progress restaurant in the Time Warner Center?

Watermarc was a false rumor and Ditch Plains took its place?

Quite a rapid expansion for a relatively short period of time.

I hope they have the organization built up.

Edited July 7, 2006 by herbacidal (log)

[Nathan]

I am told that Watermarc was renamed Ditch Plains due to trademark issues or something of the like.

I am very disappointed with Ditch Plains (as I have expressed on the relevant thread) and hope that they redeem themselves with Landmarc uptown.

[Sneakeater]

Luckylies -- We live to serve.

The irony of that thought is that those are the kinds of restaurants of which we need more.  Solid, dependable, well executed food.  Food that doesn't shoot for the moon.  A chef who isn't trying to reinvent cuisine.  Restaurants like that can be found on every corner in every city, town or village in France, Spain, Italy, etc.  Sometimes we need a restaurant whose ambitions are less lofty.  New Yorkers need to put more value on these simple, yet satisfying, establishments.

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This post helped me clarify what I think about Landmarc. I think it shows why Landmarc tends to be somewhat overrated, at least around here. It may be that there should be places like this on every corner. It may be that we need more places that serve solid, dependable, well-executed food. But that doesn't mean that, when one finally comes along, we should overvalue it because of its unfortunate rarity.

What I'm trying to say is that Landmarc is the kind of place we should be able to take for granted. Just because there aren't enough of them around doesn't turn Landmarc into a destination place. It's great (I mean really great) if you're in the neighborhood, and even worth arranging your affairs so that you're near it around mealtime. But for all the talk upthread about the subway's making New York (or at least Manhattan -- where I don't live) "one neighborhood" for purposes of eating out, I don't think I'd travel just to eat at Landmarc (or Blue Ribbon, or Schiller's, or any of the regrettably few other places like it). The point of these places is that they're not "special." Their comparative (and regrettable) rarity doesn't make them so.

So I guess I'm saying that it's easy to undervalue a place like this -- but it's easy to overvalue it, too.

[rich]

When you take into account the quality of the food, wine list and prices, the bar, the friendly atmosphere and service, plus the comfortable surroundings (especially upstairs), I believe Landmarc is impossible to overrate.

There is no other place in NYC that combines the above in one setting.

Edited July 7, 2006 by rich (log)

[murkcury]

That's very true. I couldn't agree more. In fact, the whole point of these types of restaurants is that they should, under no circumstances, be destinations in and of themselves. They are for the nights when one doesn't have reservations somewhere and doesn't feel like cooking. They are suited to last minute, spontaneous meals. They fill the late night void otherwise bereft of options. Unfortunately these places are too few and far between and as a result it makes it difficult for us as a dining public to take them for granted, when, in an ideal world, this quality should be essence of their existence.

[Sneakeater]

When you take into account the quality of the food, wine list and prices, the bar, the friendly atmosphere and service, plus the comfortable surroundings (especially upstairs), I believe Landmarc is impossible to overrate.

There is no other place in NYC that combines the above in one setting.

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I have to agree that you can't ingore the wine program.

[Sneakeater]

There is a warmth and invitingness, coupled with consistently superb cooking, that reminds me of the early (and sadly departed) days of Landmarc,

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In what way do you think Landmarc has declined? I don't go there very often, but I don't notice much difference. Then again, I didn't love it when it was new. How long did the halcyon days last?

Edited July 31, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[ewindels]

My last visit to Landmarc, some weeks ago, was a little irritating: a burger requested medium-rare came out like a brick, and in a rare move for me I actually sent it back. Also the first three bottles I requested were not in stock -- three, no less. Service the last few visits has been perfunctory at best, lacking the inviting and personable warmth that was one of the prime reasons initially that made Landmarc such a worthwhile trip.

I think my slight disillusion results from both sides: a levelling off (if not actual decline) of standards and bloom that is inevitable with almost any restaurant, particularly one who's prime mover is probably never there owing to the massive project at the Time Warner building and a second property in the city, and me just having gotten used to it and finding nothing new or invigorating. Landmarc remains a fine and reliable restaurant, but as far as I can tell the wine list has not changed since they opened (or at least, very little), and while it remains revolutionary, I personally wish they'd shake it up a little.

But on those crummy nights when you really need something reliable, an order of the foie gras, a steak, and their wine policy combine for an experience that's hard to beat.

[freshherbs]

i still love Landmarc, whether or not it is overrated. i would (and have) eat there every week. can't overstate the appeal of easy french done well and well-priced wine list. oh yeah, and nice warm setting

[GordonCooks]

Landmarc

It my girl’s birthday and she has always wanted to visit NY and do the shopping thing. What’s a guy to do? Saturday was the night for the birthday dinner and the only stipulation was for it be something reasonable in price for her friends, and not too progressive as they are not the most adventurous of eaters. They seated in this cozy, little alcove that was perfect for a birthday dinner. We started with French Onion soup, which we all thought was a little bland. The stock lacked any depth or seasonings save for a little Marsala/Sherry flavor. I started with a large order of Mussels and frites. The stock for the mussels was excellent and the aioli for the frites was delicious (I was bypassing the mussels to dip the crusty bread into the mussel stock.) The greens and Caesars were all nicely dressed, crisp, and fresh tasting. Steaks were cooked to order and of good quality (An excellent value in my opinion) Nice sides of brussel sprouts and creamed spinach made matched well. We also has an order of the Short-rib Bolognese that was good but not excellent. A little bland although the meat used was tasty but the tomatoes lacking. Another excellent value is the wine list – lot of interesting half bottles and low markups on the full bottles. Another fantastic idea is the dessert program. Small bites for 3.00 and try them all for 15.00. We did our own little tasting. Chocolate Mousse, Lemon Tart, Tiramisu, Blueberry cumble, Nutella Éclair, crème brulee, and an assortment of ice creams and sorbets. They give you a cone of cotton candy which is a memorable and whimsical touch. The Ice creams and sorbets were fine although they may have been better than I had thought. We had eaten at OTTO on fri and sampled just about all of WingDings gelatos after s few pizzas. Still the best gelato I’ve ever had bar none.

If Landmarc was in my neighborhood, I’d eat there once a week.

Landmarc

179 West Broadway (Tribeca)

[GordonCooks]

Thanks for the report Gordon! 

(BTW-A little while ago eGullet changed its image rules so that only pix that are housed on imagegullet will show up in posts. So, we're not seeing your pictures. You'll have to wrestle with the multi-stage imagegullet - PM me if you need a hand!)

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Noted and Thanks

Here's the edited pics

[BryanZ]

Desserts look like a lot of fun.

[larrylee]

We went for dinner at Landmarc recently and had the following:

(details can be found on the menu at http://www.landmarc-restaurant.com/dinner.html)

Fried calamari with spicy tomato sauce

- The spicy tomato sauce was a nice touch, as were the bits of fried parsley. The dish was acceptable but not did not stand out.

Roasted marrow bones

- Three marrow bones, served with more of the excellent, crunchy country bread. Hearty, and not something you can find just anywhere. A plus.

Foie gras terrine

- Reasonably executed, not very thick as mentioned upthread. "It's what you might expect and nothing more." Nothing to write home about.

Blood sausage

- Sneakeater once said in the Balthazar thread, "It's only brasserie food. Calm down. Try it. How bad can it be?" The interior was too watery. Exterior squished like a water balloon (a disturbing visual), and the casing was not crispy in the least. It really makes the boudin noir at Les Halles stand out in comparison.

Major disappointment. Two thumbs down.

Rock shrimp risotto

- Texture was off, really puts the mushroom risotto at Union Square Cafe into perspective. Another disappointment.

Crispy sweetbreads

- Not crispy. Overcooked. Drowning in a sauce that was separating. Green beans were overcooked.

Wine:

David Bruce Petite Sirah, 2004 Central Coast. Tasty, and as to be expected, reasonably priced.

We passed on dessert and went to Brandy Library instead to drown our woes (I think the Brandy Library makes a better sidecar than Landmarc, to boot). Landmarc's space is beautiful and the service was fairly good. However, the execution of the dishes was an incredible let-down.

Edited April 30, 2007 by larrylee (log)