Digest: 2007 Paris Restaurant News & Reviews

[John Talbott]

The Week of July 2nd, 2007

Monday’s Le Fooding had an article by Alexandre Cammas about C. Constant’s new place Les Cocottes, 135 rue Saint Dominique in the 7th, open 7/7, no phone, no reservations serving small plates, salads, soups, cod, pigeon, etc.

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris, had two reviews: the first a sort of fusion-y sounding place Edgar, 83, rue Legendre in the 17th, (the old Le Morosophe space), 01.53.06.82.82, closed Sundays and Mondays, two courses=15, three=18 and another menu at 30 €, to which Jerome Berger awarded 4/5 blocks for fare such as a duo of salmon (sashimi and marinated), medallions of veal kidneys with Chinese cabbage, avocado salad with crab, beef with ginger and soy and lots of vegetables; meanwhile Philippe Toinard gave only 2/5 to Sans Relief, 1-16, blvd de la Republique in B/B, 01.46.20.05.82, a la carte from 23-42 € for salmon tartare with mesclun salad, veal liver and crème brulee.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update enthusiastically reviewed Restaurant de la Grille, where the fish was very good.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed five places: the photo, lead and ¾ hearts went to Les Cocottes, coordinates see above, where he liked the Cesar salad, verrine of tuna, eggplant caviar and tomato gelee, cocotte of pigeon with petits pois and egg flan; three places got one heart only: Le Framboisy, 16, rue Charlemagne in the 4th, 01.42.72.14.16, closed Sundays, menu=12.90, a la carte 20-30 €, for Jura charcuteries and a bavette with petits pois that failed; the Mexican/Honduran/Laotian Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut in the 17th, closed lunch and Mondays and the sushi/etc Wasabi, 89 rue de la Croix Nivert in the 15th, closed Sundays; and finally a busted heart to Studio 54 in the 4th.

Then there was an article that linked films with restos where they were shot:

The bistrots that signal Paris

l’Escargot Montorgueil Irma la Douce

l’Absinthe On connait la chanson/Same Old Song

Casa Olympe Le Derriere

Le Square Trousseau Rire et Chatiment/Laughter and Punishment

Vieux Chene Une vie a t’attendre/Une vie a t’attendre

Pitchi Pois Prete-moi ta main/Rent a Wife

The hip-chic

l’Etoile La verite si je mens 2/Would I Lie To You?

Bound

le Mathis Le Derriere

Le Telegraphe La Buche/

China Club Le Roman de Lulu & Vertiges de l’amour/Love Vertigo

Brasseries that fill your view

La Coupole Ensemble, tout va bien, La Boum/The Party + Monsieur Klein/Mr. Klein

Balzar La Boum 2/The Party 2

Grand Colbert Tout peut arriver/Don’t be blue

Chartier Un long dimanche de fiancailles/A Very Long Engagement

Le Train bleu Place Vendome + Nikita

Cafes with atmosphere

Café des 2 Moulins Le Fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain/Amelie

Cave La Bourgogne Mensonges et trahisons et plus si affinites/The Story of My Life & Munich

Pause Café Chacun cherche son chat/When the Cat's Away

Au Soleil de la Butte l’Auberge Espagnole/The Spanish Apartment

Star Tables

Ledoyen Pret-a-porter/Ready to Wear

Jules Verne Dangereusement votre/A view to a kill

59 Poincare Tanguy

Le Grand Vefour Lacenaire/The Elegant Criminal

Lasserre Garcon/Waiter

Mythic places for cult film folk

Laperouse Quai des Orfevres

l’Hotel du Nord l’Hotel du Nord

Le Flore La Maman et la Putain/The Mother and the Whore

Les Deux Magots Les Tricheurs/The Cheats

Le Select A bout de souffle/Breathless

Le Closerie des Lilas Vieux Fusil/The Old Gun + Vengeance One by One

And Francois Simon, selected Bar des Theatres immortalized in Fauteuils d’Orchestre /Avenue Montaigne (US) for his Haché menu, where he says certainly do not go (132.30 €.)

On Friday, Simon in his « Croque Notes » featured Alain Chapel of Mionnay.

In this month’s WHERE, Alexander Lobrano positively reviews August, La Cantine de Quentin, La Fontaine de Mars, Le Cafe de Medicis at the Luxembourg Museum, l’Escargot Montorgueil + Meridien Hotel for brunch.

Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on the resto Le Mood and one by John Talbott on "Slate is the new Plate."

Sunday, in JDD, Frederic Raspiller of le Trou Gascon in the 12th picked as his favorite places for under 35 euros: the Huitrerie Regis + Le Clocher Pereire. In addition Astrid T’Seclaes in their Version femina lauded Gilles Choukroun’s world food-type Mini Palais at the Grand Palais and Le Café de l’Homme at the Museum of the same name.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of July 9th, 2007

Monday’s Le Fooding had an article by Elvira Masson of a wine bar Quedubon, 22 rue du Plateau in the 19th, 01 42 38 18 65, closed Sundays, serving plates of excellent charcuterie and cheese.

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris, had its two reviews: the highest ranking (3/5) going to Les Puces, 110, rue Legendre in the 17th, (ironically just up the street from the place reviewed last week Edgar), 01.42.26.62.26, open 7/7 with non-stop service and menus at 13 and 16 €, where Jerome Berger commented positively on the scallops, frites, entrecote, lamb tagine and chocolate mousse. Philippe Toinard gave only 2/5 to the Italianate Vinoteca in the 8th.

Wednesday, GoGoParis reviewed La Pizzetta in the 9th.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update enthusiastically reviewed Cristal de Sel.

Thursday’s Le Monde had an article by Jean Claude Ribaut on restaurants in Provence that included: Piedoie, L'Ami voyage en compagnie, Aubertin + Le Prieuré in Avignon or Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and La Villa Madie in Cassis.

Thursday, in l’Express, Eric Libaut had an article on Green vs Blond lentils saying that green ones are favored by Regis Marcon, Francois Gagnaire, Philippe Brun + Michel Troisgros and blond by Michel Bras, Louis Bernard Puech + Jerome Cazanave.

Thursday, in ParuVendu, Dominique Parravano reviewed a place I haven’t seen reviewed before Certains l’Aiment Show, 12 rue Dauphine in the 6th, 01.56.24.01.00, which is described as a restaurant-piano bar but whose food is described as “divine,” and where the menu is 45 € for creative but traditional food such as tomatoes and mozzarella, cod with wine sauce, beef with morilles and crème brulee.

Friday in Liberation, Vincent Noce devoted an entire page to Jean Paul Arabian and Cameleon, coordinates given before.

Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on Christian Constant’s new Les Cocottes and one by John Talbott on "Strange Bizarre Weird."

Sunday’s NYT Magazine had an article by Ken Gross entitled “The Baker’s Ex-Wife,” a reference to her husband of 14 years – Pierre Herme - about Frederick Grasser-Herme who has written more than 20 cookbooks. It features three recipes for Italian chicory with anchovy sauce, crab in hot dog buns and crumbled cookies with an ice cream/sorbet/champagne topping.

Sunday’s Independent had a nice review of Spring by Terry Durack.

Sunday’s Miami Herald/LA Times Service had an article by S. Irene Virbila “Paris sizzles with informal fun food” that mentions: Le Villaret, La Table de Robuchon, Gaya, Pinxo, Benoit + Le Compoir and says “Paris is back,’ {from where, I might ask?}

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of July 16th, 2007

Monday in Le Fooding, Nathalie Faure had a review of Baleak in Biarritz.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Turkish Derya in the 10th.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribault wrote an inquiry about August restaurant closings in which he recommends one reserve, except at the first two, where it’s impossible, at: Les Cocottes + l'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, both open all August, Citrus Etoile, closed the week of August 15th as well as Saturdays and Sundays, l'Alcazar, les brasseries du groupe Flo, Ratn + le Bistrot italiano the last two Indian and Italian respectively, the last open except for Ferragosto, eg August 15th. He then suggests one miss: le Chardenoux , le Café Bibliothèque + l'Arbuci.

Friday, Francois Simon wrote a rather melancholic essay on eating at restaurants in the summer that emphasized the morgue of waiters, the insolent checks and the neurasthenia of dishes but also said that one can eat at some astonishing places {no suggestions given.}

Saturday, Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot in Le Figaro Madame listed 30 favorite restaurants on the sea from Wimereux to Menton and Corsica. Rather than list them I’ll refer you here.

Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by John Talbott on "Eating with a strong dollar."

Rosa Jackson, in this month’s “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes reviewed Les Ombres at the Quai Branly Museum in the 7th, coordinates already given, where she liked everything but the acoustics.

August’s Conde Nast Traveler give the following “affordable gems” in Paris: Chez Gladines, Kaza Maza + Bistro Victoire{s}. They also give the following “pit stops” in the Basque country: Hautrive St James in Bouliac and Hotel de France in St Justin.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 25th, 2007

Monday in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson announced the second (to the Café Very) Gilles Choukroun offshoot at the Grand Palais, a “spectacular” place called the MiniPalais, at Perron Alexandre III, avenue Winston Churchill in the 8th, 01 42 56 42 42 where one can eat a rumsteak for a “hit the sky” price of 28 €; also his signature crème brulee of foie gras with peanuts and tartare with mango-basil-coriander, citrus from the Café des Delices days, etc.

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris, had a sort of end of the academic year review of fish places (e.g., “sans arêtes”), giving 4/5 blocks to La Cagouille + Rech, and 3/5 blocks to l’Ecallier du Bistrot, Le Winch, {whooeee, local guys make good} and Les Fables de la Fontaine.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update enthusiastically reviewed Benoit, where everything was to his liking.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, there was an end of the year review that mentioned the following places to go with friends in the summer:

Les Fines Gueules

Les Jardins de Bagatelle

Cristina’s tapas by Mavrommatis

Brasserie Coq

Le Pavilion Puebla

Au Gourmand

Karl et Erick

Cristal de Sel

La Bastide Blanche

Le Saut de Loup

Bonpoint

Breizh Café

Chez Julien

Rech

Salumeria

Cheribibi

Quedubon

La Fontaine de Mars

Mini Palais

Café Very

And Francois Simon, selected Grand Pan for his summer Haché menu.

Thursday, in ParuVendu {still striving to be a serious pub}, they reviewed/mentioned a bunch of places with terraces (see here and Pierre Rival’s pick of the week was the oft-mentioned Le Galvacher.

Jean Claude Ribaut in Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde has an article on La Chassagnette in Arles which grows much of its own (bio) vegetables.

Jean Louis Galesne, too, in Friday’s Les Echos reviewed several places in and around Arles : L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel, Le Cilentro, L'Autruche, Restaurant La Telline, La Chassagnette, Domaine de l'Armellière, + Le Mas de Peint.

The June-July GaultMillau has yet another rating system and mentions several places in Paris, as follows:

Momoka New

Rech Watch it.

Bistro de la Muette New

Murano In trouble

Le Comptoir du Relais In good shape

Chez Corto Watch it.

Le Timbre Watch it.

Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Shirley Valentine” that mentions Le Divellec and one by John Talbott on "Bernie {Pivot} and Me."

Sunday, in JDD, Regis Douysset of l’Escarbille in Meudon picked as his favorite places for under 35 euros: Les Fougeres + Le Dome Bastille.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of July 23rd, 2007

Monday, in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed Le Sens in Cannes.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed 25° Est, 10, place de la Bataille de Stalingrad in the 19th, 01 42 09 66 74, a la carte: about 25 €, only closed Sunday lunch, where the first time he ate rather well but the second was bedlam.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribault gave more places, most of which are open in August, with terraces, including one new one, the Gilles Choukroun-directed Mini Palais in the Grand Palais, erroneously described by him previously as a Cuban restaurant:

Au clocher du village

Chez les Anges

Rech

Mavrommatis

Pasco

La Petite Cour

Hôtel Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

La Cour Jardin

Les Ombres

La Maison Blanche

Sens (La Terrasse)

Jarasse

Le Coq de la Maison Blanche

Bistro & Cie (Willy Dorr)

L'Absinthe

La Cagouille

Mini-Palais

The weekend FT had a glowing review of Spring, coordinates already given.

Sunday, in the NYT travel section, Ann Morrison wrote about spending a day in Nancy, suggesting one eat at Le V’four.

This week, France 2 and Camille Neveux in Le Parisien mentioned a program where donors giving blood get little 4* kits of food made by chefs at the Crillon, Ritz + Café de la Paix.

Colman Andrews in August’s Gourmet has an article on La Chassagnette + l’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles and their chefs’ use of fresh vegetables {While articles, for instance, this have appeared in French, this is one of the few I English.}

I missed several weeks ago when Frederic Koch, in a special on the Auvergne, in l’Express singled out several restaurants: Lavoûte-Chilhac in the Haute-Loire, Orcines + La Bourboule in le Puy-de-Dôme, and Mandailles, Saint-Flour + Drugeac in Cantal.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of July 30th, 2007

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson reviewed le Cristal de Sel, coordinates already given, using words such as bistronomique, ultra gourmande and very simple.

Radio France announced the publication of the new book by Herve This De la science aux fournaux, editions Belin/Pour la science 25 E; the English version of the Pudlo Paris, Little Bookroom 15.65 E with a thousand restos and 300 bars, tea salons, etc; and the opening of "Ratatouille" in France.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribault reviewed two places in Paris open in August: the Café Tournon, 18, rue de Tournon in the 6th, 01-43-26-16-16, closed Sundays but open in August, a la carte 20-35 €, serving Auvergne charcutieries, nicely-seasoned salads, stuffed tomatoes, thick veal liver, steak/frites, duck liver and veal feet as well as good desserts; and Le Moulin de la Galette, coordinates well-known, taken over {when?} by Jérôme Bodereau and Antoine Heerah, exChamarée, serving market produce, pumpkin soup, Jerusalem artichoke, crunchy milk-fed-pork and “amusing” desserts with a 17 € menu at lunch and 25 € at dinner, à la carte count on 45 €, open everyday including in August.

Sunday, in the NYT travel section, Sarah Wildman wrote about Nantes and suggested eating at La Petite Epicerie, Tabl’o Gourmand, l’Atlantide + La Cigale.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article entitled Meet me in St Tropez that covers a lot of restaurants there.

The September Bon Appetit has a long enthusiastic article on Daniel Rose and Spring by Alan Richman.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of August 6th, 2007

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson described what Claude Colliot of l’Orenoc is doing as an apprentice “cookcosmetologist” with perfumes from Virginale to create things such as rosemary, avocado and litchee foam and a rose essence and white chocolate macaroon.

GoGo Paris reviewed the Mini-Palais, coordinates already given, that serves all day in the Grand Palais, everything from breakfast to real food at lunch (20€ for the menu with a main, glass of wine + coffee) to snacks in the afternoon to cocktails and Sésame, 51 quai de Valmy in the 10th, open daily from 9 AM to MN, 01.42.49.03.21, serving light food, sandwiches, etc for 9-13€.

Last Thursday, in Figaro Madame, Véronique André reviewed several restaurants in Arcachon : Chez Hortense, Café de la Plage, Le Patio + Le Bikini.

In July, I missed an article by Laurent Chabrun in l’Express on where to purchase simple Corsican products in Corsica.

Every once in a while, the quiky little website RestoaParis beats out all the other couples with a test of a new place. This time it’s L’Atelier Charonne, 21, rue de Charonne in the 11th, 01-40-21-83-35, closed Sundays and Mondays with a lunch menu at 13.80 and dinner one for 27,90 serving fare such as a melon gaspacho, rillettes de saumon, a suprème de volaille with goat cheese, filets de daurade and caviar d'aubergines and a millefeuille à la vanille with crème anglaise as well as good wines, all of which they say is excellent. Their current list of favorites includes Le Salon, Le Tournesol, O Corcovado, O Batignolles, L'arbre de Sel, Sur un R de Flora, L'Oasis, Tout le monde en Parle, Le Méli, La Cuisine, Le S, + Le Bistrot Montsouris.

Saturday, Radio France announced the publication of the new book Sept 5th by Héloïse Martel called La Cuisine de l'étudiant , First Editions, 2.90 Euros, that presents an interesting concept – recipes for students who want to eat well, albeit not haute cuisine.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had an essay entitled “Adria, Astrance and Aspen.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of August 13th, 2007

August 2nd, in an article titled “The Liturgy of Cassoulet” in Le Point, Olivier Le Naire recommends the Rodriquez family’s Château Saint-Martin Trencavel in Montredon (Aude) and gives Jean-Claude Rodriquez’ recipe.

August 5th, member Joe Ray in the Boston Globe had a nice article on the food on the Rue Paul Bert in the 11th featuring restos le Bistrot Paul Bert, l'Ecailler du Bistrot, Le Café Titon + Le Temps au Temps (but not Unico) and the book store La Cocotte and wine store Crus et Découvertes. {While the French press has covered the street’s blossoming, this article, of course, is in English.}

Friday, in Le Figaro, there was an article by Juliette Lipman all about expat Americans in Paris and what they do, mentioning them clutching their Zagat’s while going to their favorites: l’Os à Moelle, Chez Juliette, Le Comptoir du Relais, l’Astrance + Fish La Boissonnerie, places along the Hemingway Route: Harry’s Bar, Bar Hemingway + La Closerie des Lilas; for pancakes etc: Breakfast in America, Colette Water Bar, La Cantine du Faubourg, Bound, Thanksgiving, Bagels and Brownies, La Grande Épicerie du Bon Marché, the Real McCoy, Joe Allen + Le Fumoir, the bookstores Shakespeare & Co, Village Voice + Brentano’s and websites The Paris Times, Paris Craigslist.org & Franglo.com as well as three other places: Bikram Yoga Paris, Nail Bar Sephora and le spa Talika at the Pershing Hall.

This weekend, in Figaro Madame, Francois Simon reemerged to write a tribute to the 72-year-old Michel Guérard and his “astonishing food” in Eugenie-les-Bains. Recently, there have also been articles about the summer inventions of Dalloyau by Nadia Hamam and Berthillon, by Alexandra Michot as well as three restos on the Riviera - mentioned by Vérnique André: Le Récif, plage de la Bonne-Source, in Pornichet and the Castel Marie-Louise + 14 Avenue in La Baule.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of August 20th, 2007

Saturday in Figaro Madame there was an article by Veronique Andre on two places in Deauville Les Vapeurs + Château Les Bruyères.

Monday in Le Fooding, François Lemarié wrote of La Cantina di l’Orriù in Porto-Vecchio.

Wednesday’s NYT had an article by Nancy Newhouse on what she calls the “three principle [cooking] schools” in Paris: Le Cordon Bleu Paris, l’Ecole Lenotre and l’Ecole Ritz Escoffier. How helpful her brief exposure to three classes is/will be to those seeking to make a decision is in question; for instance, I doubt that Americans would want to spend the time and money at Lenotre to learn more about cooking Italian dishes.

Thursday’s Le Monde had an article by Jean Claude Ribaut on Andrée Rosier, sous-chef at l’Hippocampe at the Hotel du Palais in Biarritz, the first female chef to achieve the Meilleure Ouvriere de France (MOF) designation August 15th.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article describing La Reserve, the restaurant of the Sofitel Palm Beach, Marseilles.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of August 27th, 2007

Monday, the IHT published an article by William Boyd that demonstrated how one wine maker in Bergerac is successfully surviving the glut of French wine; ironically, just three weeks ago, Stephen Castle wrote another article in the mother pub, the NYT about the common opinion, whose title tells it all – “A tide of wine may drive European growers from a way of life.”

Monday, as well, the first fall edition of A Nous Paris appeared with 3/5 block reviews of the Café Very, coordinates given previously, reviewed by Jerome Berger, and Le 182, 182, quai Louis-Bleriot in the 16th, 01.42.88.44.63, formulas at 20 and 26 €, Sunday brunch 20 €, where Philippe Toinard is quite critical of the food served, e.g., scallops in June and its preparation – chicken with butter-drenched frites but likes the prices, the wine list and the pleasant service.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article about Les Cocottes of Christian Constant, coordinates given before.

Sunday as well, in the JDD, Jean Yves Bath of the eponymous resto, now in the 17th, gave his two favorite places under 35 € as: l’Entredgeu + Le P’tit Bouchon. In the JDD magazine version femina Astrid de T’Serclaes reviews: Cheri Bibi, the Italianate Sorza and the picnic lunches inspired by Thierry Burlot at the Cristal Room Baccarat.

The July-August oMni had a full page cover photo of Gilles Choukroun and an article on his expanding empire (l’Angl’Opera, Café Very + MiniPalais).

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of September 3rd, 2007

Last week’s Figaro Madame had three reviews of light-food places, all of whose coordinates are either published or given before: le Jardin Ephemere au George V, Au Comptoir du Saumon + Veramente.

Monday in Le Fooding Elvira Masson wrote about a mozzarella/Italian charcuterie bar in the Rue de Rennes FNAC called Roberta, 11AM-3 PM only.

Monday, as well, in A Nous Paris had a piece I swear I see once a year; places beloved by the rugger bunch. This year, however, a new place was listed which is co-owned by Alain Dutournier, SYDR (La Syderie de l’Etoile), 6, rue de Tilsitt in the 8th, 01.45.72.41.32, menu 34 €, to my knowledge not yet reviewed and only mentioned by Radio France Web Radio du Gout, that mentions Serrano ham, Landes chicken and gigot of goat. The other places were: Bath’s, Le Troquet, Le Petit Baiona, le J’Go, Pakito, Pena Festayre, Le Refuge Café, Les Papilles, le Bistrot de l’Alycastre, La Plaza del Toro + Le Stado.

Richard Hesse in Paris Update this week reviewed I Golosi coordinates in the guides.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin et al reappeared in Figaroscope with a disappointing rentrée “What’s New” heralding only one two-hearter, three ones and a busted heart (Chez Franck in the 3rd). The two hearts went to Le Clocher Periere, 42 bd Periere in the 17th, 01.44.40.04.15, closed weekends with menus at 17 (lunch), 29 and 38 €. Run by yet-another exRobuchon {there’s a story there,} Rubin liked the cepes cake with parsley, rabbit stew with confited lemon and cold soufflé Grand Marnier. The one hearts included: Les Puces, 110, rue Legendre in the 17th, 01.42.26.62.26, open 7/7 {but largely brunch at Sunday lunch, I’ll be posting my report soon.} There are menus at 13 and 16 and a la carte runs one 20-25 € for the likes of entrecotes/frites and lamb tajine; Les Embruns, 4, rue Sauval in the 1st, 01.40.26.08.07, closed Sundays and Mondays, where the exDucasseian serves up mussels, a fricassee of langoutines and ray with capers for 45-50 €; and the Italian place Sorza in the 4th.

Their “Dossier” was entirely devoted to rugby places {like ANP’s was above}:

Unico Argentina

The Auld Alliance Scotland

The Bombadier GB

Envol Café Quebecois Canada

Altro Italy

Coffee Parisien USA

Chez Cristina + Doina Romania

Korin Japan, reviewed by F Simon who says “Go?: Dozo, eg “Please.”

Plus there’s an interview with Yves Camdeborde who lists his rugger places as: the Café Constant, les Cocottes, les Papilles, l’Express Bar the boulangerie Julien, le Sous-Bock + le Volant.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut interviewed Fredy Giradet {the chef some of us think was the best in Europe 20 years ago.}

Thursday, in ParuVendu, there were more rugby places mentioned. In addition to those mentioned above, there were: Atelier Berger, Au Trinquet, Flower of Scotland, the Frog & Rosbif, Le Comptoir, Restaurant Le Stade, Au Metro + Le Tastevin.

L’Express had two reviews last week not posted until this week; François-Régis Gaudry applauded the successful relocation of Au Gourmand, coordinated already give and Yves Nespoulous reviewed Supernature, 12, rue de Trévise in the 9th, 01-47-70-21-03, a la carte, 23 €, lunch formulas, 12 + 15 €; brunch, 16 €, closed weekends except Sunday brunch, a quick, light-food (gazpacho, hamburger, carrot cake) “cantine.” In this week’s L’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry had a long piece on Olivier Bontemps of the eponymous O Bontemps in Magalas and Hugo de Saint Phalle wrote about Chez Karl et Erick, coordinates already given, for his “less than 30 €” section. Three other places were mentioned, the “Top” being Kunitoraya in the 1st, the “Flop” being Le Deli-cieux on the 9th floor of Printemps with vertiginous prices and “To watch” is Le Chanticler in Nice.

Friday, in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne discussed the summer’s successes, relying largely on a cocotte and tapas formula, Les Cocottes + La Sydrerie de l'Etoile, 6, rue de Tilsitt in the 8th, 01.45.72.41.32, open 7/7 with a lunch menu at 29, a la carte 35-40 €, chef’d by Patrick Canal, exCarré des Feuillants serving up cocottes for lunch and tapas for lunch and dinner, Le Cotte Rôtie, 1, rue Cotte in the 12th, 01.43.45.06.37, closed Saturday at lunch, Sunday and Monday for lunch with a lunch menu at 14 and menu 29 € devoted to Côtes-rôties and other Rhones, chef’d by Nicolas Michel, exMarc Meneau + le Relais d'Auteuil serving a market menu, with stuffed calamari, pork, etc., and Afaria, 15, rue Desnouettes in the 15th, 01.48.56.15.36, closed Sundays and Monday lunch with a lunch formula at 19, a la carte about 35 €, chef’d by Julien Duboué, exDaniel Boulud, Antoine Westermann + Alain Dutournier as a tapas bar.

Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Figaro dealt with a rather disappointing meal he had at Thierry Marx’s Cordeillan Bages.

The weekend FT had an article by Nicolas Lander called “Partners in crème” about three married couples in France who run successful places: Gouts et Couleurs in Rodez, Restaurant Octopus in Beziers and Le Parc Franck Putelat in Carcassonne.

The July-September Voyage d’Affaires featured three restaurants in hotels that are contemporary: Le 16, Sens + Le Montparnasse 25’.

September’s Optimum had an article by Christian Emmanuel on Best Tables for the Rentrée:

Best of the month Le Grand Pan

Best business class Au Gourmand

Best bistro Le Cristal de Sel

Best terrace MiniPalais

Best wine Que du Bon

Best good plan Chez Karl et Erick

Best to see and be seen Chez Julien.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article about Dominique Bouchet, who has opened his Wa-Bi Salon, next door to his resto, where for 200 € per person for three hours, eight persons get a private cooking and floral art course as well as sake and tea tastings.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of September 10th, 2007

Monday in Le Fooding Elvira Masson wrote about Coco & Co, {cute name for an egg place, huh?}, 11 rue Bernard Palissy in the 6th, 01.45.44.02.52, open only for lunch and closed Mondays, costing about 12 E for various preparations of eggs.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope gave three hearts in “What’s New” to: La Marlotte, 55, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.45.08.86.79, closed Sundays, with 40-50 a la carte and a 23 € lunch menu, revived by Gilles Ajuelos of the Bastide Odeon; serving a macedonia of veggies and haddock, squid risotto and an apricot gratin; the new "œuféria" Coco & Co, see above, but giving a different cost - 25-35 €; and the resto-bar La Nouvelle Athenes, 9, place Pigalle in the 9th, 01.49.70.03.99, open 7/7, serving foie gras with onion confit, ray with chips, veal steak and pistachio ice cream for 40-60 and a menu at 35 €. He gave one heart to the Italian charcuterie/cheese Roberta in the basement of FNAC Montparnasse, non-stop service (10 AM-7 PM) and a busted heart to La Cotte Roti in the 12th serving leaden, fatigued food.

The “scope’s” “Dossier” this week was all about beautiful settings:

Medieval

l’Auberge Nicolas

Napoleón III

La Café de la Paix

IIIrd Republic

Escargot Montogueil + Willi’s Wine Bar

Art Nouveau

Pharamond, Julien, Bouillon Racine, Le Train Bleu, Lipp, Chardenoux, Chartier, Vagenende, Mollard, Montparnasse 1900, Fermette Marbeuf 1900 + Restaurant du Musee d’Orsay

Art Deco

Maison Prunier + Relais Plaza

And Francois Simon trashed Maxim’s saying it is between woeful and pitiful and cost him 356 € for a meal in one of the most beautiful places in Paris that is alas dead; an abandoned Titanic.

Wednesday GoGoParis reviewed Le Look on the rue des Martyrs, “a bright London-style café serving delicious, healthy food” and Thursday, Adrian Moore visited l’Ami Jean, which except for the service, he found good and the 32 E lunch came with a great pigeon.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Le Severo + le Bis de Severo the twin beef places in the 14th, coordinates well-known.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about some pleasant surprises of the Rentrée that included: the return of Michel Del Burgo from his restaurant Le Duc in Moscow to L'Orangerie where he’s turning out astonishing mushroom raviolis; Gilles Epie’s renovation of his Citrus Etoile this summer, where he’s serving an entire 250 gram cepe and a Passardian duck from the Vendee cooked in its blood with stuffed macaroni; Alain Dutournier of le Carré des Feuillants’ opening of the Sydrerie de l'Etoile, with Basque/Southwestern cuisine and tapas at a long bar; the introduction at the fish resto Port Alma of a Catalonian tapas room, 14 pieces for 20 € ; and the reopening of the Marlotte, also noted elsewhere here, but helpfully noting that the 23 € menu includes a main, dessert and a glass of wine.

Thursday in l’Express François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the “cult bistro” Le Chateaubriand and its new 40 € dinner menu (the lunch one remains 14 €) serving food from all over {I wonder give examples because Gaudry says it changes all the time) and for his “Under 30 E” category – Les Corniches du liouquet in La Ciotat (Bouches-du-Rhônes).

Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Figaro wrote about a dinner he called “Far From Boring” at Ze Kitchen Galerie in which he notes that Ledeuil acts rather than talks and delivers new exciting food, exemplary service and good wine. He contrasts it to some extent with l’Angl’Opera’s upside-down explanation of dishes.

Saturday-Sunday in Figaro Madame there was an article by Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon in which they also sort of review Alain Dutournier’s latest venture, Sydr where one can both watch rugby and eat expensively and not particularly well {see as well Ptipois’s review}: suggestion, better to go to the Carré des Feuillants. One day, Veronique Andre reviewed three places in Lyon: le Bistrot de Lyon, l’Auberge de l’Ile + Nicolas le Bec.

In the weekend FT there is a fascinating article by Rowley Leigh about the differences between the grey English partridge (low in fat, high in flavor, rich, gamy, endangered) and the red-leg French one (1/2-1/3 cheaper, bigger, plumper, tender flesh, if hung properly can be gamy).

Two articles in Travel & Leisure in September are of interest; the first by MarcelleClements giving restos in museums: Les Ombres, Restaurant du Musee d’Orsay, Tokyo Eat, Le Georges + Le Grand Louvre, the second giving hotel restos in the Aveyron: Grand Hotel de la Muse et du Rozier, l’Hostellerie de Frontages, Hotel-Restaurant Chateau de Cressels, Hotel-Restaurant Bras, Hotel-Restaurant du Vieux Pont, Le Comptoir d’Aubrac + Les Demeures de Longcol.

Rosa Jackson in “Paris Bites in Paris Notes writes glowingly about La Gazzetta in the 12th, coordinates {and my review} given before.

Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article about the year-old new team (exMiss Betsey/Bastide Odeon) at the Buisson Ardent.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of September 17th, 2007

Monday in Le Fooding Alexandre Cammas wrote about Le Look, 17 rue Martel in the 10th, 01.42.46.12.88, opened by one artist-designer-creator Ludivine Billaud, serving hot dogs, salads and sandwiches, croissants, lasagna and other pasta.

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had an article on Gilles Choukroun, his history and his expanding empire.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update loved Garance, 96 quai de Jemappes in the 10th, 01 42 02 87 95, closed Mondays, costing about 35 € a la carte where despite the loud music he had great daurade tartare with beetroot shoots, marinated salmon with fresh herbs and Thai lime zest and a crunchy guacamole; previously he’d had calf’s liver and suggests they do fish better than meat (including steak tartare and rib steak).

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope entitled the “What’s New” section “C’est Nouveay” {I guess because rugbyman Sella gets a supportive cheer} and devoted the headline, photo and long blurb to Sydr, 6 rue Tilsett in the 8th, 01.45.72.41.32, but gave it a busted heart (as did Pti here); the other broken heart was La Ferme Saint-Simon, 6, rue de Saint-Simon in the 7th, 01.45.48.35.74, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, {which grade does not comport with mine.} The good news, however, were three two-hearters: Le Carée des Vosges, 15, rue Saint Gilles in the 3rd, 01.42.71.22.21, closed Sundays and Mondays, with menus at 21 and 27, a la carte 40-50 € with a langoustine bisque, fricassee of chicken and daurade piperade; Victor, 101 bis, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.47.27.55.07, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a luncheon formula for 21 and 40 €a la carte for smoked herring, lamb en croute of herbs, chicken breast and Hevin pastries; and Clarisse, 29, rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.50.11.10, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch menus at 31 and 38, 54 at night, and a la carte 50 € for sardine filets, rabbit with foie gras and roast figs.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about Japanese bento boxes gotten at:

Restaurants

Kaiseki + Bizan

Take-out shops

Premiere Etoile, Lenotre, Fauchon, Be + Raynier Marchetti.

And Francois Simon in his “Hache Menu” reviewed Usagi, 58, rue de Saintonge in the 3rd, 01.48.87.28.85, saying that while Japanese bentos are not as popular in Paris as Italian pizza, North African couscous or American hamburgers, if you are in the area you could go painlessly for the bento, stuffed cabbage and desserts for 67 €.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about the movie Ratatouille and its Bristol-like décor and echoes of Bocuse’s love life, Loiseau’s death and Escoffier’s first name, saying only Antoine Ego, the critic, is generic.

Friday, Jean-Louis Galesne in Les Echos reviewed these restaurants in Lyon: Daniel et Denise, Maison Merle, Koodeta, l’Orson quit Boit, Magali & Martin, Cuisine & Dependances Acte II + Les Oliviers. and two bars: Le Bar du Passage + Le Comptoir de la Bourse. In the same edition, Jean-Claude Hazera discusses the cheese that Parisians devour and where to get and see it being made: Brie, the King of Cheese and cheese of Kings, from Meaux, Melun, Coulommiers, Montereau and Nangis can best be appreciated at the Société Fromagère de la Brie in St-Simon as well as La Fontaine Sainte-Colombe in Vieux-Maisons and La Fromagerie Ganot in Jouarre; in Paris from Cantal. He also writes of the raw milk/AOC issue regarding the camembert from the coopérative d'Isigny-Sainte-Mère et Lactalis.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Figaro wrote about eating in Alsace/etc.: Chambard + Flammes and Co in Kaysersberg, la Table du Gourmet in Riquewihr and La Nouvelle Auberge in Wihr-au-Val.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited September 28, 2007 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of September 24th, 2007

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson reviewed Afaria, coordinates given before, chef’d by the 26 yo Basque, Julien Duboué, who trained with/at le Carré des Feuillants, Drouant, Le George V + Daniel Boulud, where she liked everything from the boudin to the Tahitian raw fish to apple tart with caramel.

Monday, Adrian Moore posted a map on Gridskipper of Tourist Traps in Paris that included Le Tour d’Argent, Le Voltaire, Brasserie Lipp, Le Jules Vernes, Café Costes, Buddha Bar + Apicius

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had its traditional two reviews: Jerome Berger awarded 3/5 blocks to Que du Bon, coordinates given before, a sort of glorified wine bar serving some hot dishes in addition to charcuterie and cheese; Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks as well to Chateau Poivre, 145, rue du Chateau in the 14th, 01.43.22.03.68, formulas for 20 and 23 €, where a new team serves things like a duo of carrots and lentils, duck with mashed potatoes and a mango gratin, {caution: the review isn’t enthusiastic despite the grade.}

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Café Moderne, coordinates in the food guides where he had good food but a cold reception and bad service.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope entitled his “C’est Nouveau” “Long Live Afaria,” coordinates above, which he rated three hearts, saying the boudin with apples was one of the best dishes he’s had this season and that the pork and apple tart were also good. He gave two hearts to Garance, coordinates given before, which he called a pleasant surprise that was a bobocratic serving neopopu food like leeks vinaigrette, tournedos of salmon and pear crumble. He also gave one heart each to l’Evasion, 24, rue des Tournelles in the 4th, 01.42.72.03.07, closed Mondays with a 33 € menu-carte serving potato “crumbs” with chives, souris d’agneau and sorbet, and Reflet, 33, rue de Guersant in the 17th, 01.45.72.39.35, open for lunch only and closed Sundays, running one about 30 with a 12 € formula consisting of platters of charcuterie and cheese, smoked salmon and macaron glace, after which he says “Why not?” Finally, he awarded a busted heart to La Giara an Italian place in the 6th.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about Cotes of beef, pork, etc as follows:

Beef

Le Volant + Cristal de Sel

Veal

A l’Abordage + Aux Zingots

Pork

Le Clocher Periere + Le Grand Pan

Lamb

Goupil + Le Saut de Loup

And Francois Simon in his “Hache Menu” reviewed Cotte Roti, coordinates given before where he couldn’t find the telephone number in the Yellow Pages and had to call the resto next door to get it but it didn’t answer 10 tries anyway, was kept waiting for hours for dishes and was not blown away by the food. His bill was 134.50 € for two (including a 65 € Cote Rotie). Asking himself if one must go he answers “Wait a month.” {Given the fact that his colleague Emmanuel Rubin gave it a broken heart a few weeks ago, I’m a bit puzzled why he went anyway.}

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about cassoulet and where to get it: Au Bascou, l’Ami Jean + le Trou Gascon.

Friday, Jean-Louis Galesne in Les Echos reviewed places in Beaune : Loiseau des Vignes, Via Mõkis, Le Benaton, La Régalade + Bissoh.

Friday, François-Régis Gaudry noted the twentieth anniversary of the Bistro d’a Cote with an article on Michel Rostang, his installation of his 26 yo second Olivier Mascré at the piano and his empire of one grand resto, four bistrots and two brasseries run by the family (his wife and two daughters).

Saturday, Francois Simon in Figaro wrote his “Croque Notes” about a new book by Christian Millau, cofounder of Gault-Millau and “nouvelle cuisine” – “Le Guide des restaurants fantomes,” Plon.

Sunday in the NYT Travel Section, David Laskin wrote about WWI monuments and cemeteries and recommended two restaurants – the Hôtel du Grand Monarque in Varennes and Le Bec Fin in Grandpré.

Sunday in JDD the famous chef picking restos in Paris (no longer for under 30 €) was Keisuke Matsushima of the eponymous one-star in Nice who named Le Compoir du Relais + Kai. In its Version Femina Astrid de T’Serclaes did no reviews but interviewed Philippe Marc, chef at the Relais Plaza as to where he gets his products which may be of some interest to members:

Le Coq St-Honore in the 1st for fowl

L’Oceanic in the 1st for fish

Colom in the 16th for fruit

Selectissime in the 8th for (exotic) spices

Faye in the 16th for charcuterie and mushrooms

Boucheries Nivernaises in the 8th for AOC meat, and

Cantin for cheese.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited October 6, 2007 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of October 1st, 2007

Last week, only posted recently, Francois-Regis Gaudry in L’Express reviewed Afaria, 15, rue Desnouettes, in the 15th, 01-48-56-15-36, closed Sundays and Mondays with lunch menus at 19 and 27 €, a la carte: 30 €. The article/review posits that the 15th is THE happening place populated by the chicks from the Christian Constant hatchery - Christian Etchebest at Le Troquet, Thierry Faucher at l'Os à moelle, Thierry Blanqui at Beurre Noisette and Mathieu Garrel at Bélisaire, plus one has Benoît Gauthier at the Grand Pan and Karil Lopez at the Cristal de sel. In any case Afaria is chef’d by an “ancient” (he looks like he’s 12 if a year, but truth in reporting; he’s actually 26) from Drouant, Carré des Feuillants + Daniel Boulud, serving 14 tapas, an échine de cochon gascon confite en cocotte de légumes {which I’ll report on later}, and lots of Hispanic, Haitian, Basque and other dishes.

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had three reviews: Philippe Toinard gave a rare 4/5 blocks to Pierre au Palais Royal, 10 rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01.42.96.09.17, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays which has a menu of 33 for two courses and 39 € for three. It serves things such as tuna tartare, Breton bar and a petit pot of orange. Meanwhle Jerome Berger awarded 3/5 blocks to two places: Les Cocottes, coordinates and dishes well given before and the new Vapeur Gourmande, 49, rue Balard in the 15th, 01.45.57.71.90, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a lunch formula for 15, a la carte 35 € that serves a plate of veggies from Joel Thibault and white peaches with caramel sauce. {I think you get the picture.} On the side-bar was an announcement that a place Le Café qui Parle, 24, rue Caulincourt has reopened in the 18th, 01.46.06.06.88, under a chef from la Maison du Danemark and his wife with very gentle prices – 12.50-17 € at lunch serving stuff such as gazpacho with ecrevisses, salmon and cheese and fruit.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the MiniPalais, coordinates given before, where he seemed to have found the setting stunning but unless I’m mistaken, only the desserts equally so.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope once again gave lots of space and ink to a place he essentially trashed but also awarded two hearts each to Au Bon Acceuil, coordinates in the guidebooks, newly taken over by a Japanese chef who serves a 31 € menu (a la carte 50-60 €) of a type of mackerel like sushi, sautéed cepes and a baba; and Pierre au Palais Royal, coordinates above, serving Madagascar shrimp, boudin noir and a trilogy of duck. One hearts went to Ratatouille, 168, rue Montmartre in the 2nd, 01.40.13.08.80, closed weekends serving for 35-50 € an honorable ecrevisses ravioli, nice enough crab, chicken breast, lotte and a tarte tatin {I cannot figure out what was wrong}; Le Floors, 100, rue Myrha in the 18th, 01.42.62.08.08, never closed, which is an “American diner” serving fish & chips {that’s sure American}, cheeseburgers and a chocolate milkshake for 20-35 €; and Le Look, 17, rue Martel in the 10th, 01.42.46.12.88, closed Sundays, with no menu or “menu” but serves hot-dogs and salads for 15-20 €.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about Small plates obtainable in covered markets:

Les Enfants-Rouges

l’Estaminet d’Aromes et Cepages

Taeko

Beauveau

Corossol

Sur les quais

La Maree Beauveau

St-Germain

Bacchus & Ariane + Litchi Bar reviewed by F. Simon in his “Croque Notes”

St-Quentin

Quach

Ternes

Les Cousines en Cuisine

Rue Daguerre

Fromage Rouge & Co

Levallois

La Table Rouge

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about innovations in St Emilion wines.

Friday, in l’Express, Marie-Amal Bizalion had a review as an under 30 E place, of Le Longchamp Palace in Marseille and François-Régis Gaudry reviewed La Maison Blanche, that Forbes magazine called the “World's top power dining spot.”

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, devoted his “Croque Notes” to a farewell to the front-room star of Stella Maris, cutely misprinted as Stella Paris, Michiko Yoshino who left Paris last Tuesday night for her home near Kyoto.

Sunday in JDD the famous chef picking restos in Paris (now for under 35 €) was Fabrice Salvador of the Table du Lancaster who chose Azabu + Krung Thep. In its Version Femina, Astrid de T’Serclaes reviewed: Chez Julien + Vintage, 46, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01.40.26.57.54, lunch formula 15, a la carte about 30 E serving irreproachable meat, game and mushrooms.

And Sunday as well, Margaret Kemp has an article in Bonjour Paris about Gordon Ramsey coming to Versailles as well as the Ferme St Simon, les Princes + La Table du Lancaster while John Talbott has an update on the 10th arrondissement’s restaurants, notably Garance.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of October 8th, 2007

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had two reviews: Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 blocks to Le Petit Casier, 49, rue Olivier de Serres in the 15th (next to the wine-bar le Casier a Vins, 01.56.08.36.22, a la carte 36-53 € serving mainly fish that he describes as not revolutionary but modernly presented, incontestably fresh and respectful of its perfumes. Meanwhile Jerome Berger awarded 3/5 blocks to Le Look Cafe , coordinates given last week, which he describes as having a PMU (eg betting parlor café) atmosphere and serves draft beer and milk-shakes with Portuguese sardines, hot dogs and soup. For some reason, rather than regularly reviewing Afaria in the 15th, coordinates already given, they just describe its blend of tapas and Southwest food in the sidebar.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Astier, coordinates given before, which he liked under the new management as much as before.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded 3 hearts to the new wine (and food) place Il Vino, 13, bvd de la Tour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.11.72.00, closed weekends but open 7/7 starting next December, with three menus at 50, 100 and 1000 €, a la carte 40-70 where he had a lotte and rouget soup and duck with potatoes. Two hearts went to Le Vingt 2, 22 rue Desnouettes in the 15th, 01.45.33.22.22, open everyday, running one 15-30 € for cervelles de canut (brains of the silk worker, a Lyon specialty) spread on toast, tuna/wasabi, pork with sage and French toast with figs. Then came three one-heaters: Entre 2 Rives, 1, rue de Hanovre in the 2nd, 01.42.66.15.11open Mon-Fri for lunch and Thursday and Friday for dinner, a Viet Namese diner; 1T, Rue Scribe, 1, rue Scribe {duh} in the 9th, 01.44.71.24.24, open everyday from 11 AM – 8 PM for about 25 a la carte, menus 16 and 23 €, for green tea, sandwiches and other “lady food;” and Edgar, 83,rue Legendre in the 17th, 01.53.06.82.82, closed Sundays and Mondays, for about 35 a la carte and 15, 18 and 30 € menus serving foie gras on toast and chopped beef, Japanese style {for my report see here.)

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about roast chicken and where to eat it. It included a ranking from #1 l’Ami Louis, rated 17/20 to #20 Lipp, rated 9/20, as follows:

A l’Ami Louis

L’Assiette aka Chez Lulu

Atelier de Maitre Albert

Relais Plaza

Rotisserie du Beaujolais

Au Pere Claude

Allard

L’Arbuci

Chez Flottes

Buttes Chaillot

La Gare

Syderie de l’Etoile

Rotisserie d’en Face

Chez Clement

Le 182

La Rotonde de la Muette

L’AOC

Le Louchebem

J’Go

Brasserie Lipp

And Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” got to go to the #1, where despite the Americans, for 180 €, you won’t be disappointed.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about the grand old memories at Chartier, Le Coupole + Pied de Cochon, celebrating their 111th, 80th, 60th and anniversaries respectively.

Apparently, Friday, in l’Express, they reviewed Julianon in the Oise and Roberta Bar a Mozzarella in the FNAC Montparnasse, since they are listed on the “Saveurs” page, but the link is busted to the content.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, published a nice article on two chefs and restos in Reims: Didier Elena and Les Crayères and Arnaud Lallement at l’Assiette Champenoise; he noted that both cartes had foie gras and tuna but only the latter, langoustines cooked in four ways

Saturday/Sunday, in the FT Nicholas Lander described two meals he deemed representative of “Pure Paris,” Gerard Besson with its/his panoply of game (3 courses was 320 €) and Il Vino with its 5 wine/5 course (from among 15) meal for 100 €.

Sunday, Margaret Kemp has an article in Bonjour Paris about the Starck redecor at the Meurice and John Talbott has a piece on “Bad Service.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited by John Talbott to correct rating of Le Petit Casier, in A Nous Paris from 3/5 to 4/5.

Edited October 23, 2007 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of October 15th, 2007

Monday, Jean Boilot of Le Fooding wrote up the African/Senegalese resto Chez Blondin, 33 bd Arago in the 13th, 01 45 35 93 67, closed Sundays costing one about 30 €.

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had two reviews: Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to the well-received Afaria, coordinates given before, where he mentions the boudin with potatoes and sweetbreads with cepes; while Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 blocks to Les Diables au Thym, 35, rue Bergere in the 9th, 01.47.70.77.09, with a 28 € menu, serving such fare as an artichoke cake, sandre with green cabbage and over-salted cod. In the side-bar they announce that the Kusmi Tea house has opened a resto in its St Germain des Pres location.

Wednesday, Nick Hammond in Paris Update reviewed the two-year-old Fontaine Fiacre, coordinates given before, which he liked as much as I did (wonder why I’ve never returned?)

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts each to the Senegalese Chez Blondin, coordinates above and Alfred, 52, rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01.42.97.54.40, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing about 50 €, for items such as a terrine de campagne, beef filet and chocolate mousse. One heart each went to three other places: the Japanese resto Usagi in the 3rd, Vintage, 46, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01.40.26.57.54, closed Sundays, about 30 a la carte but with two formulas at 14.5 and 18 € for squid salad, a remoulade of celery and crab and a veal chop with girolles, and the neo-baba-bobo-bio Supernature, 12, rue de Trevise in the 9th, 01.47.70.21.03, closed Saturday all day and Sunday at dinner (lunch is brunch), costing 25 a la carte with formulas at 12 and 15 €, for lasagna, risotto and a “veggie-burger.”

And Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about the new Italian restaurants:

Trattorias

Romantica Caffe

Don Giovanni

Impro’vista

Vincent Cozzoli

Gambino

Restaurants

Iannello

Crudus

Goldini’s

Wine bars

Nero Enoteca

Vinoteca reviewed by Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” where he says one can eat better (especially for 176.50 € for two with only two glasses of 10 € wine)

Bar a Mozzarella

Roberta FNAC Montparnasse

Not forgetting

La Maison de Matteo, Le 7 Epicerie comptoir, Cantina Clandestina, La Salumeria, Bonpoint

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about courses all over France October 13-14 teaching about using spices.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, published several pieces: (1) an article on the House of Krug, (2) two articles on books to buy, a nice “Croque Notes” about l’Agassin, 8, rue Malar in the 7th, 01.47.05.94.27 {whose menu looked rather pedestrian when I looked in en route to l’Ami Jean after reading Jean-Louis Galesne’s review of it in mid-April} but Simon has changed my mind calling the food generous, serious and impeccable and the chef, ex-Anacreon, good and despite a loud American table, he had a good meal. In the business section were two other food articles: one on the “trend” to use “professional” machines (beer taps, coffee makers and chilled wine racks) at home; the other on the plan to export the Atelier des chefs concept to Brussels, London and New York.

Saturday/Sunday, in the FT Michael Steinberger wrote about Steven Kaplan of Cornell and Versailles becoming the world’s foremost historian of French bread.

Sunday, in the JDD, Mathias Dandine of the one-star hotel Les Roches in Le Lavandou recommends the following under 35 € in Paris: Le Café Barge + Le Relais des Buttes. In its magazine femina Astrid T’Serclaes writes up: Le Grand Pan + Au Petit Thai.

Sunday, Margaret Kemp has an article in Bonjour Paris about caviar at Petrossian and other events of the week and John Talbott has a piece on “Being rather tough” on Cristal de Sel.

The hotel handout magazine Where’s Alexander Lobrano wrote up Le Winch, Café de la Paix, Cristal de Sel + le Mini Palais.

The other magazine distributed in hotels, Newzy, also featured several new restaurants or new chefs that Jean Pleumartin thinks are worth visiting: Nero Enoteca, Afaria, Chez Ramuleau, l’Eclaireur, Konfusius + Le Cotte Roti.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of October 22nd, 2007

Monday, Alexandre Cammas of Le Fooding wrote up the Japanese resto l’Umami, coordinates already given.

Monday the 15th, in l’Express, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Il Vino, coordinates given before, where he thinks the prices are a “bit prohibitive;” and Pierrick Jégu reviewed the Italianate R-Wan in the 15th. Then posted Tuesday the 30th, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the Asiatic/Japanese Umami in Strasbourg and Yves Nespoulous reviewed the Japanese place Momonoki in Paris in the 2nd.

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had two reviews: Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to Le J’Go Rive Gauce, 3, rue Clement in the 6th, 01.43.26.19.02, running one 28-40 €, serving much the same fare as in their Southwestern oriented places in Toulose and opposite Drouot, except this offshoot is described more as a bodega than a bar or restaurant. His colleague, Jerome Berger gave 4/5 blocks to Il Vino, coordinates given before, which he appears to have really liked, especially the wine, wine and wine. Their sidebar also mentions the winebar Vingt 2 coordinates given before as well where they liked the wines and fine gueules too.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts each to the very night-clubby looking Le Lup, 2-4, rue du Sabot in the 6th, 01.45.48.86.47, open from 10 PM to 5 AM except Sunday-Tuesday, serving duck terrines, crunchy calamari, beef tartare and lemon/vodka sorbet for 50-60 € and Le Petit Casier, coordinates given before, the fish-inclined offshoot of the wine store nearby, where for 30-40 €, one can get a millefeuille of salmon, tuna in a tagine preparation and a little pot of chocolate. Two restos got one heart: Le Bistrot de Neuilly, 16, rue Commandant Pilot, in Neuilly, 01.46.24.72.36, closed Sundays where one gets an ouef mayo, cassoulet and fromage blanc for about 35 € (formulas at 12.50 and 14 €); and Vapeur Gourmande, 49, rue Balard in the 15th, 01.45.57.71.90, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, where they serve Joel Thibault-type veggies, a veal chop and chestnut for 30 € (there’s also a formula for 15 €). Finally Rubin awarded a busted heart to the Georgian resto La Maison Georgienne in the 6th.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about casserole-dish places that included:

Le Cameleon

Coco & Co

Les Cocottes de Christian Constant

Mon Vieil Ami

Aux Lyonnais

Le Versance

L’Arome

Without forgetting: Le Dauphin, La Ferrandaise, La Table Lauriston, Le Clou + Moussa l’Africain.

Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” visited Afaria coordinates given before, which he calls one of the best deals of the rentree and ate tapas, spare-ribs and a tart, plus wine for 121 €.

Wednesday-Thursday Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote an article on Game and its new methods of preparation: at Jacques Cagna grouse with an acidic airelle sauce, Auguste, grouse with a black whisky (Loch Dhu) sauce, Restaurant Jean-Marie Amat, civet de lievre with “deaf and pregnant odors,” La Grande Cascade, with a rable de lievre with cocoa, cooked in clay, chestnuts and celery with mustard, with a cherry reduction, the Plaza Athénée, a large plate of game with pastry of partridge, foie gras and a Périgueux sauce, Citrus Etoile, with lièvre with a civet sauce Mère Jean, based on blood, tempura onions, liver galettes and fresh pasta, La Marlotte, serving the lièvre as a pie, Sénateur Couteaux fashion, cooked in wine with garlic and shallots and a blood-based sauce and Les Glaneurs, that serves a neighborly plain civet of lièvre.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, published several pieces concerning 2008 French Restaurant Guides that are posted on the 2008 Food Guide topic.

This weekend’s IHT had a snippet by Katrin Bennhold on Hidden Kitchen and “code-named” hosts, Laura and Braden.

Sunday, Margaret Kemp had an article in Bonjour Paris about Cyril Lignac of the Quinzieme and John Talbott had an essay on “Good service or good service.”

My oMni aka Omnivore just showed up this week and had a fascinating rating of chefs in France by an international “jury” of two French folk: Marc Bretillot the designer and Philippe Regol, former chef; three Italians: Andrea Petrini of Gambero Rosso, Enzo Vizzai of La Republica + L’Espresso and Paolo Marchi of the Italian version of the Omnivore Food Festival; Jorg Zipprick of Der Feinschmekere and the American Michael Steinberger of FT + Slate/Washington Post website. It was apparently published by Liberation + Omnivore in September as a supplement Next. In any case, there are a few surprises {to me anyway}, I’ll give the restaurants not the chefs to be consistent from 1-23:

#1 l’Astrance

Bras

Chateaubriand

Cordellian-Bages

Les Crayeres

Le Crillion

Le Grenouillere

Sa.Qua.Na

Youpala Bistro

#10 Ze Kitchen Galerie

#11 Pierre Gagnaire {See what I mean?}

Troisgros

Le Bristol

Mirazur

Decoret

Pic

Auberge du Prieure

Auberge en Gascogne

La Mare aux Oiseaux

#20 L’Arpege

Maison de Bricourt

L’Assiette Champenoise

Auberge des Glazicks

There was also a delightful article by Jorg Zipprick on places he ate at from 1987-1990 that included addition slips and descriptions of; Jamin, Chantecler, Giradet, l’Arpege, Louis XV, Lucas Carton, Les Pres d’Eugenie, l’Aubergade, Taillevent + Alain Chapel. Unfortunately the article is not posted on their website so you have to subscribe to read it.

November’s Travel & Leisure had an article on Languedoc-Roussillon by Sarah Wildman that listed the following: le Pain d’Elices + O Bontemps.

November’s Conde Naste Traveler had a “Grand Challenge” “Word of Mouth” piece on Paris where the un-named author recommended: Eat me, Cave de l’Os a Moelle, Le Petit Pontoise bis, Chez Germaine, l’As du Falafel + La Ferrandaise.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of October 29th, 2007

Last Friday, but just showing up this week, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos listed his “Best 40” in France. The summary mentioned the following that one can conclude are the “Best of the Best:” in Paris: l'Huîtrerie Régis, Il Vino, les Cocottes, l'Ami Jean, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Ledoyen, Senderens, Thiou + Chez Michel. Outside: l'Atelier Rabanel, Se Qua Na, Jouni, La Civelle + La Régalade, the one in Beaune.

Monday, Elvira Masson reviewed a new wine bar Racines at 8 passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, 01 40 13 06 41, open Monday-Friday from lunch to midnight, run by the ex of La Cremerie serving not only wine, sausage, etc but hot dishes for 10-15 €.

Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris was devoted to Japanese restaurants, which as is my inclination, I won’t summarize, but name – 4/5 Korin, Kilala, Yen + Kunitoraya; 3/5 Usagi, Kaiseki; ?/5 Hanawa

Tuesday, in honor of the Goncourt Prize setting November 5th at Drouant, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed it for l’Express. {PS Short-listed is a novel/autobiography of Zelda Fitzgerald. P.S. it won.} Other Paris reviews by Jérôme Dupuis and Delphine Peras concerned the writerly-connected left bank establ.ishments: Le Perron + La Cigale Recamier.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts each to Racines, coordinates above, which he calls a combined resto-deli-wine store andcosts one 25-40 € depending on the wine and the Italian R’Wan, in the 15th. Getting one heart were 142 Creperie Contemporaraine, 59, rue St-Charles in the 15th, 01.40.59.84.01, open 7/7 running one about 20 (formula at 10 €), for crepes with andouille or apples and the Italian Chiaro di Luna in the 4th. He gave a busted heart to Le Jardin d’Hugo in the 16th – he asks “What’s worse than the umpteenth Italian resto?” Answer: “The umpteenth and bad Italian resto.”

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about new restaurants with a good price-quality ratio that included:

Lunch & dinner

l’Oxalis

Le Volant

Chez Leon

Le Clocher Pereire

L’Ordonnance

L’Amuse Bouche

Preferably lunch

l’Office

l’Accolade

Garance

Le Vingt 2

Quedubon

Dinner only

Cheri Bibi

Correction: 3 October they said incorrectly that Gilles Choukroun was consulting at the Buddha Bar.

And Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” ate at Le Gorgeon, 42, ave Victor Hugo in Boulogne, 01.46.05.11.27, closed Sunday and Mondays, where he says they cook the real thing, and for 5 an appetizer and 12 € a main. He had (apparently) a terine de campagne an entrecote/frites and tiramisu + chocolate mouse. Go? Yes, if out West of Paris.

Wednesday-Thursday Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote an article on natural wines and the restaurants that champion them: Baratin, Chateaubriand, Racines in Paris and Le Temps des Cerises in La Tour sur Orb.

Saturday, Alexandra Michot wrote about traditional Korean food in anticipation of the Korean Festival beginning November 6th.

Sunday, Margaret Kemp had an article in Bonjour Paris about the pastry at the Café de la Paix and John Talbott had an essay on “Good service or good service.”

October’s Gourmet had a nice spread by Oliver Schwaner-Albright on Luc Dubanchet (of oMni) and the Carnet de Route guide, that he implies in his title is passing the Michelin on the highway. And November’s issue had a review by Cynthia Zarin of new cookbooks that called our member Clotilde Dusoulier’s book Chocolate & Zucchini zesty, inventive and enthusiastic.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of November 5th, 2007

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts each to the Café Pleyel, located on the second floor of the music venue, 252, rue du Faubourg St Honore in the 8th, 01.53.75.28.44, open for lunch every weekday but for dinner only on nights when there are performances, with a menu that changes weekly but the time he went consisted of a pea soup with pistachio sausage, wok’d beef with carrots and cumin and a fig tart for about 25-35 (25 € for the pre-concert formula) and J’Go St Germain, 14, rue Lobineau in the 6th, 01.43.26.19.02, open 7/7, costing one 25-40 € for goose hearts, pork sausage and cabecou cheese. Then came two one-hearters: Ludik, 49, rue de Lyon in the 12th, 01.43.07.54.87, open weekdays from 11 AM – 4 PM where one makes ones own sandwiches, salads and pasta for 15-25 € and the second Thai place of the same name – Mme Shawn II in the 16th. Finally he deemed Black Calvados, 40 ave Pierre-1ier-de-Serbie in the 16th, 01.47.20.77.77, open only for dinner and closed Sundays and Mondays, worthy of a broken heart because of its “lamentably executed food” costing 60 € for a deconstructed Caesar salad, idiotic oeuf mayo and aqueous gnocchi.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about new restaurants with good fish. They included:

35º Ouest

Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre

Le Winch

Rech

Les Fables de la Fontaine

Le 21

Caviar House & Prunier

La Marée Passy

Les Embruns

Vin & Marée

And Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” ate at Le P’tit Casier, coordinates given already, where he bemoaned that it was not more full despite the good reviews {Figaroscope, A Nous Paris, etc., } and quite enjoyed his oyster tartare, swordfish tajine and desserts for 119.50 €. “Go?” “You better.”

Sunday, Margaret Kemp had a positive article in Bonjour Paris about the Tour d’Argent and John Talbott had an essay on “Location Setting and More.”

Rosa Jackson’s Paris Bites in Paris Notes reviews Toustem and Les Cocottes, both of whose coordinates have been given before and while the former is a mixed picture, the latter she indicates she’ll return to.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of November 12th, 2007

Monday, Elvira Masson in Le Fooding, reviewed l’Epigramme, 9, rue de L’Eperon in the 6th, 01 44 41 00 09, closed Sunday nights and Monday, serving a lunch formula at 22 € (two courses) or full blackboard menu, lunch and dinner for 28 €, comprising items such a superb veal and too-rare milk-fed pork with a “choucroute” of turnips.

Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s critics reviewed two places: Philippe Toinard covered the existing pork palace, Au Petit Theatre, apparently because November is the “month for tripes,” giving it 3/5 blocks while Jerome Berger awarded 2/5 to the new Café Pleyel – De Bouche a Oreille, coordinates given before, which he found to offer a reasonably-priced pre-concert dinner.

Wednesday Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Le Pre Verre where the food was good but the reception and service not so.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts to l’Epigramme, coordinates above, serving quail with piperade, pork parts and a vanilla soufflé and one heart to Le Bouquet des Archives, 31, rue des Archives in the 4th, 01.42.72.08.49, open 7/7 and costing between 25 and 35 € for a generous pot au feu. Three broken hearts went to Comme a Savonnieres in the 6th, the Indo-Pako Le Partage in the 5th and La Bulle in the 10th.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was concerned with places serving crepes. They rated them from 1 to 20, Francois Simon having drawn #13 for his ”Hache Menu”:

#1 Breizh Café

Ty Breizh

Creperie Suzette

Le Petit Morbihan

Imogene

La Crepe Dentelle

L’Ile au Ble Noir

Le Pot O’Lait

Ty Yann

La Creperie

La Mouette a Bord

Creperie du Comptoir

Des Crepese et des Cailles

Creperie Bretonne Fleurie….de l’Epouse du Marin

Crepe Rit du Clpwn

Les Cormorans

Au Beurre Salé

Creperie de Josselin

Ti Joss

#20 Les Ecuries

Wednesday, François-Régis Gaudry of l’Express weighed in on l’Epigramme, coordinates given above, calling it a bastion of good living and comparing it to Chez Michel + Repaire de Cartouche ; NB the chef, Aymeric Kräml, 29 y.o., has passed through the kitchens of the “great dukes of cuisine” Bardet, Bocuse, le Crillon + Coconnas and when he wishes has lievre royale on the chalkboard. The other two reviews this week are by Marie-Amal Bizalion, of Le Pointilliste in Toulon and another by Gaudry of the Left Bank nightspot (10 PM – 5 AM) Le Lup, 2-4, rue du Sabot in the 6th, 01-45-48-86-47, costing 60 €, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays, serving everything from crunchy calamari to burgers.

Jean Claude Ribault in Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote two articles; the first about Romuald Fassenet, the young chef who was the Meilleur ouvrier de France (MOF) in 2004 and who moved from Le Bec Fin in Dole a few miles away to the Château du Mont Joly in Sampans, lunch menu = 30 € and the second about finding a good Beaujolais nouveau - he recommends the old vine wines from the Domaine des Vissoux obtainable at la Cave Balthazar, 16, rue Jules-Guesde in the 14th or the B.N. from Michel Guignier, available at L'Œnothèque, 20, rue Saint-Lazare in the 9th.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon has a rapturous article on a meal at Guy Savoy for 443 € (he gives the price of most items in great detail).

Sunday, Margaret Kemp had an article in Bonjour Paris about the launch of the Pudlo 2008 and John Talbott had an essay on “Strike Food Strategies.”

Finally, Sunday JDD’s Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed two places: Afaria + Le Coq, the latter a night-club. Also Aurelie Chaigneau had a long piece on Alain Ducasse’s takeover of the Tour Eiffel eateries.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of November 19th, 2007

Monday, Le Fooding, there was a sort of a manifesto concerning le Fooding’s “war” over its name, already summarized on the Pinned Topic: Restaurant, Food and Chef News.

Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s critics reviewed two places: Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 blocks to l’Oxalis, consistently misspelled l’Oxalys, coordinates given before where he liked the fricassee of mushrooms & escargots, scallops and a crumble, while Jerome Berger awarded 4/5 to the glorified wine-bar Racines, coordinates also given before, run by the ex-patron of La Cremerie and featuring natural wines and name-brand butter, cheese, rabbit, etc. In the side-bar, they feature two mini-reviews of the new wine-bar-light food resto, le Vingt 2 {my report on it is here} and l’Arome, ditto for coordinates, that has a new chef, ex from the Royal Monceau. {It’s interesting that just a year ago I reported on it and felt the then chef hadn’t quite “got it.” Time to try it again, I guess.}

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed L’Entêtée, 4, rue Danville in the 14th, 01 40 47 56 81, closed Sundays and Mondays with a 30 € menu serving fusiony food such as eggplant tart, tuna with seseme and salad and tart Tatin of endive and goat cheese.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope had a tough go; awarding 4 one-heart ratings to:

Le Pantheon on the second floor of the cinema of that name, 13, rue Victor-Cousin in the 5th, 01.40.46.01.21, closed weekends, costing 15-30 € for "snacking" food; an old place with the same chef but a new sign outside - the Villa Victoria, exVelly, {which I too had found velly bad}; the third a Lebanese place Assanabel, in the 6th and finally Lamfe, 7 rue des Prouvaires in the 1st, 01.45.08.04.10, open 7/7 costing 35-50 € for what sounds like 2-heart food – endives, honorable pleurottes and a classic entrecote. The broken heart went to Le 50-Zinc, 55, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, serving forgettable food in the exChineurs space.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was concerned with wine bars. They included:

The new

CaveSteve

Quedubon

Les Domaines qui montent

Aux Anges

La Cave du Daron

The classics

Chapeau Melon

Cremerie-CavesMiard

Lavinia

Verre vole

Caves Legrand

And also

Nicolas

Nono

Le Chemin des Vignes

La Garde Robe

Les Papilles

Caves Petrissans

Cave a l’Os a moelle

And Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” got to go to Racines, coordinates already given, where for 60 € for two he felt he did OK, especially with the “little plates.”

Jean Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about what birds to serve during the holidays: poularde from Bresse at 45 €, chapon of Bresse @ 18-25 €; turkey from Loué, only 11,50 €; pigeon from Miéral – Ain at 26 €; and chicken, Loué label rouge, costing 6,70 €.

Thursday, Les Chroniques du Plaisir accompanied "in" chef Daniel Rose of Spring as he shopped.

Friday, Sibylle Vincedon had an article in Libe about the difficulty in eating “bio” for a week.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon had a Croque Notes piece on creating rather than copying dishes, as most chefs seem to be doing these days. Also in the weekend edition, Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot gave essentially the same information as Phyllis did elsewhere, in a much longer version. Finally, in an article I can only find in the pdf version, Bertrand Saint Vincent has a tribute on La Coupole’s 80th birthday - the 20th of December.

October’s Optimum had it’s Good and Bad of the New Restos:

Best Brunch Coco & Co

Best come-back La Marlotte

Best bistrot Afaria

Best 16th Victor

Best Pigalle La Nouvelle Athenes

Best Marais Le Carre des Vosges

Best flop Sydr

December’s Food & Wine has a blurb about Marc Veyrat’s 3-volume “Encyclopedie Culinaire du XXIe Siecle” and Jean Francois Abert’s bio of Pierre Gagnaire “Lucide & Ludiquie.”

Jay Chesnes in Saveur has an article on the Pied de Cochon which eventually will be on line.

In addition, Travel & Leisure had Christopher Petkanas’ chronicle through the workingman’s zinc cafes including: Melac, Le Pur Café, Bihan Café, Le Temps des Cerises, Le Laffitte, Chez Gladines, Le Bearn, + Le Café des Deux Moulins.

Sunday November 18th, the NYT had a “Foraging” article by Elaine Sciolino on Goumanyat & Son Royaume's spice plus emporium (where you have to buzz to get in) in the 3rd.

Sunday, the 25th, Philippe Toinard (of ANP fame) posted the first mention I’ve seen of Marguerite, 50, rue de Clignancourt in the 18th, 01-42-51-66-18, the menu with coffee is 15 €; a la carte 25-35 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays. He gave it 3/5 Miams and appreciated the quenelles of sandre and game terrine, but also admired the next table’s risotto with mushrooms.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of November 26th, 2007

Monday, Le Fooding, there was a sort of a manifesto concerning le Fooding’s “war” over its name, already summarized on the Pinned Topic: Restaurant, Food and Chef News.

Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s critics did a sort of “Where to Get what dish” at seven restaurants: awarding 4/5 blocks to:

Breizh Café for crepes and galettes

l’Ami Jean for rice pudding

l’Avant Gout for Pot au Feu

Chez Michel for game

l’Epigramme for rabbit porchetta style and 3/5 blocks to

Afaria for sausage with apples and La Ferrandaise for a blanquette of veal.

Wednesday, Adrian Moore in GoGo Paris had a glowing review of Afaria, coordinates given before.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update very positively reviewed Villaret, coordinates well-known.

Wednesday, too, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded just one two-heart rating to the weekday Left-Bank “cantine” Le Six Odeon, 6, rue de l’Odeon in the 6th, 01.44.41.09.72, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 30-40 € for the likes of spinach and Gouda soup, tartare with fries, potato and foie gras “cake,” and chocolate mousse. Then came three one-hearters: a place Paris Hilton would eat Corsican food in: l’Empire de VIIIe, 11, rue Jean Mermoz in the 8th {natch,} 01.43.59.21.47, open 7/7 and costing 45-55 € for brocciu tart, a Corsican burger, veal stuffed with veggies and fruit sorbet; a pretty retro-bistro Café Charlot, 38, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01.44.54.03.30, open 7/7 and costing about 30 € for food such as a beef tartare, penne arrabiata and a coffee éclair; and Le Passage Gourmet, 126, rue de l’Abbe Groult, 01.48.42.40.60, also open 7/7, and for 30-45 € serving lentils with smoked duck, leeks mimosa and a merlan en colere. Finally, he gave a broken heart to l’Artoise, 5, rue d’Artois in the 7th, 01.43.59.18.54, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing about 40 € (vs a formula at 39 €) rabbit terrine, veal liver and cold nougat.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about places in which to consume a business lunch. They included:

Daniel

Passage St-Roch

Le Diane

Le Restaurant de l’Hotel

Hotel Amour

Sens

L’Orenoc

Lounge Club du Bar Anglais

Restaurant W

Il Cortile

Le Murano

Le Safran

Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” got to go to Park Hyatt Vendome, coordinates well-known, where for 131 € for two he thought that for two coffees, one “transparent” dessert and four scallops, it was a bit much.

Finally, Wednesday in l’Express, their three reviews covered the waterfront. The “top” was reviewed by Yves Nespoulous - Alfred, 47, rue de Montpensier and the Passage Beaujolais, 52, rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01-42-97-54-40, running one about 50 € à la carte and closed Sundays and Mondays, serving “terroir” food such as sautéed vegetables, scallops with lentils and a fig tart. At the other end, reviewed by François-Régis Gaudry, was Cinquante-Zinc which he called a “flop” inheriting a cursed space at 55, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01-42-78-64-50. Out of town, Pierrick Jégu reviewed Le Tourne au verre in Cairanne in the under 30 € category.

Jean Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about the release of the Japanese Michelin in which Tokyo restaurants received 191 stars vs Paris with 97; thus becoming the “gastronomic capital of the world” and where to have a quiet lunch including: the Hôtel Daniel, Le Céladon, Au Petit Théâtre, L'Espadon bleu, Le Carré de Marguerite + Cazaudehore-La Forestière in Saint-Germain-en-Laye. The second from the last, the Carré de Marguerite occupies the space left by the Café des Délices at 87, rue d'Assas in the 6th, 01-43-26-33-61, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays with a lunch formula at 19 €, menu 22 € and a la carte, figure on 40 € and is run by Benjamin and Chloé, serving items such as sauteed gambas with pumpkin confit, pork loin with plums and braised endives and a macaronade with orange.

Thursday, Les Chroniques du Plaisir wrote about Zoe Bouillion in the 19th.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne wrote of little bars to eat at that included: Le Daniel, Restaurant de L'Hôtel, L'Eclaireur, Bar Senderens, + Baan Kanya.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon devoted his Croque Notes piece to Jean Marc Boyer’s Puits du Trésor in Lastours. {For those who care about such things, even when you can no longer find Simon’s stuff on the Figaro site except in pdf format, you can get it 4-5 days later on his blog.}

Saturday/Sunday, John Talbott had an essay on “Shameless Promotion” that featured Spring + Carte Blanche.

December’s Gourmet has an extensive article on Guy Savoy and his ventures.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 3rd, 2007

Monday’s Le Fooding announced the Fooding awards already given by Felice elsewhere on the Forum; but for the record they were:

Umami Best table (Strasbourg)

Il Vino Best Bobo-wine

Chez Jeannette Best décor

Le Salon Cinema du Pantheon Best home cinema

Spring Best One-Room Place

l’Atelier du Sommelier Best wine dealer (Niederbronn les bains)

l’Oncle Georges Best tarte flammée (Pfettisheim)

Le Grand Pan Best bistrot

Racines Best wine bar

Le Tracteur Best country spot (Sanilhac Sagries)

Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s critics reviewed two places: Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 blocks to the new sister of La Maree Passy called La Maree Denfert, 83, ave Denfert Rochereau in the 14th, 01.43.54.99.86, open everyday, costing about 50 € for seafood like palourdes, ray and scallops. Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to Marguerite, 50 rue de Clignancourt in the 18th, 01.42.51.65.18, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing from 25-35 but a menu at 15 €, for quenelles of sandre, a game terrine, veal sweetbreads and a cote de boeuf.

Tuesday, Gaudry François-Régis in l’Express reviewed Au Pied de Cochon, coordinates well-known after 60 years; Pierrick Jégu covered Les Sables Blancs in Concarneau for his under 30 € review; and {in what I suspect is a misdated review} François-Régis Gaudry says that Racines, coordinates given before, is much more than a wine bar/wine shop and is more charming than others like it such as Le Verre vole, les Papilles + la Muse Vin.

The Tableadecouvert website has the first write-up of the intriguingly named Cavasteve, 15 rue de Longchamps in the 16th, 01 47 04 01 45, costing about 20-30 €, that was mentioned in Figaroscope but not really reviewed. In any case, Caroline Mignot has and it sounds like the usual wine bar good product.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update gave a bad review to Les Diables au Thym, 35, rue Bergère in the 9th, 01 47 70 77 09, closed weekends, 2 course menu = 22, three is 28 and a la carte about 40 €.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded three restos two-heart ratings. They were: De Sers, Hotel de Sers, 41, ave Pierre 1er de Serbie in the 8th, 01.53.23.75.75, closed Sundays, serving chicken nems, cream of pumpkin, tuna lasagna and cheeseburgers for 50-60 €; La Marée Denfert, 83, ave Denfert-Rochereau in the 14th, 01.43.54.99.86, open 7/7, serving roast clams, sand sole, ray with capers and brioche perdu with caramel for about 60 €; and l’Oxilis coordinates given before, with a good quality-price meal (30 €) serving crab remoulade, scallops with butter and roast pigeon. Two one-hearts went to the Japanese Kadoya in the 1st and a wine bar Les Potirons 288, rue des Pyrenees in the 20th, 01.46.36.01.30, open 7/7 with a 15 € formula and a la carte 39 €, serving uncooked and overcooked oeufs cocotte, scallops and cheese.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about places to have dinner after 11 PM. They included in the:

Latin Quarter

Fogon

l’Alcazar

Atelier de Maitre Albert

Bourse-Boulevards

Drouant

Pierre au Palais Royal

Fontaine Gaillon

Mori Venice Bar

Maris, Bastille, Gare de Lyon

Cafe Baci

Cafe de Passage

Swann et Vincent

Blue Elephant

Enoteca

Au Duc de Richelieu

Etoile, Trocadero

Ballon et Coquillages

Le Coq

Ginger

Villa Corse

Black Calavados

Madeleine, Concorde

Caviar Kaspia

Motte-Piquet, St-Dominique

l’Ami Jean

l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Cafe de Commerce

Montmartre, Trudaine

Cesar

Cafe Burq

Sole Caffe et Cucina

Oh Bigre

Gare du Nord, Villette

Au Village

Cafe de la Musique

Le Bœuf Coronne

Chez Michel

And Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” went to Le Lup, coordinates given before, where he said 182 € for two dinners and a show was OK.

Jean Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about Christmas in Alsace, mentioning the following restaurants: Umami, Le Pont des Chats + Le Casserole in Strasbourg, Le Chambard in Kaysersberg and JY'S in Colmar.

Thursday, our member Adrian Moore on Gridskipper posted his “Comfort Food” favorities that were: Afaria, Bath’s, Biche au Bois, Breizh Café, Chez Eux, Maison de l’Aubrac, Michel Rostang + Le Troquet.

Saturday, in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon wrote about SaQuaNa in Honfleur.

Saturday-Sunday, Margaret Kemp in Bonjour Paris had an article entitled “Pourcel Buzz” which mentioned two relatively new places La Cuisine at the Buisson Ardent and Le Kenze.

This month’s Paris Notes had positive reviews by Rosa Jackson in her “Paris Bites” on the Brasserie Rech and the Breizh Café, coordinates given before.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 10th, 2007

Monday, Le Fooding, there was an article by Trish Deseine on the Bandol sur Mer in Torstrasse and Weinerei Frarosa in Zionskirchstrasse.

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris had places to go for New Year’s Eve:

Good price-quality ratio Atelier Berger 72 €

New Au Petit Marguery 98 €

Franco-Italian Il Cortile 265 €

High Up Jules Verne 750 €

Full Sea Dessirier 128 €

Classic Les Noailles 160 € with wine

Playful Jean, rue St Lazare in the 9th, 125 €

Offbeat Kube 190 €

Palace l’Espadon – Hotel Ritz 500 € with wine

Wednesday, Adrian Moore did a nice review of Le Grand Pan, coordinates already given.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update very positively reviewed Toustem, calling Helene Darroze someone who’s everyone’s favorite “whipping-girl.” {I am one nay-sayer}.

Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded just one two-heart to the reborn Le Petit Marguery, coordinates unchanged, menu-carte at lunch for 23 and 26 and dinner 30 and 36 €, where he indulged in 9 oysters, a rable de lievre, lievre royale and soufflé. Filling out the week were 4 one-stars: the Thai Bistrot de Mme Shawn in the 3rd, the tea-salon Thé Cool in Neuilly, a sandwich/wrap/deli place Alef Bet in the 5th and half-bobo buchon and wine bar Au Fil du Vin, 45 quai de Valmy in the 10th, 01.46.07.28.36, closed Sundays, running one 20-30 € depending on wine chosen, for an ample plate of cheese and pork products.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was concerned with more New Year’s Eve places. They included:

Up to 100 €

Le Winch

Astier

Chai 33

Chez Cecile

From 100-150 €

Le Royal Madeleine

Ferme St-Simon

L’Epigramme

L’Angle du Faubourg

Blue Elephant

Le Noailles

La Table de Babette

Cafe Faubourg

La Cave des Cordeliers

Le Daru

Kub Hotel

Cafe Lumiere

144 Petrossian

From 200-300 €

l’Orangerie

Maison Blanche

Il Cortile

Mini Palais au Grand Palais

Les Ombres

From 300-500 €

La Table de Lancaster

Yachts de Paris

Pre Catalan

About 500 €

Le Bristol

Le Meurice

Ritz

And of course, Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” got to go to a swank one Laperouse, coordinates well-known, where for 485 € for three and the champagne at 22 € a glass, he concluded “No one is making you go.”

Wednesday/Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut had several pieces in Le Monde; one on molecular cuisine, another on champagnes for the holidays, a third on five specific wines for the same, and a fifth on caviar, specifically from Petrossian.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote up five restaurants in Metz: Le Magasin aux vivres, l’Ecluse, Au Pampre d’Or, Chez Georges a la ville de Lyon + Les Amis de Saint Louis.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon had a Croque Notes piece on le Crillon where he was impressed by the products, Asian influences, clientele and price (502 €/2).

Finally Saturday-Sunday, Margaret Kemp had a piece on Lasserre and John Talbott, one on “How to tell when a restaurant is dying” in Bonjour Paris.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.