9 Day Trip to Paris, Need Restaurant Advice

[Jesikka]

My best friend and I are going to Paris for 9 days at the end of Jan/ beginning of February. We're very excited to eat in Paris, but we don't know much about food specifics in the city. We've got a reservation at Arpege in the middle of the week, but we haven't made any other reservations. We probably won't do anything else as high end as Arpege, although we might sneak in one additional 2 or 3 star lunch. We are also planning on going to Les Magnolias, although we have not yet made a reservation.

He has never been to Paris; I've been several times but not in years and I don't know the city well. We are staying in an apartment right near Notre Dame, and we will be able (and excited) to cook as well.

We would appreciate suggestions for restaurants, bistros, markets, etc in a variety of price ranges/ locations. We eat everything.

Also, I know this is off topic, but if you are familiar with a gym I might be able to use for the week, advice on that topic would be appreciated as well.

[John Talbott]

My best friend and I are going to Paris for 9 days at the end of Jan/ beginning of February. 

Also, I know this is off topic, but if you are familiar with a gym I might be able to use for the week, advice on that topic would be appreciated as well.

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I suspect you've already checked our compendia which have links to everything from picnics to romantic restos. There are also several threads on visiting the city, the most recent here.

I have a hunch folks may suffer from advice fatigue and not give you much after they're contributed to another thread. So do do a search and I'll try to put together these similar threads.

Finally, visiting a gym is on topic if you're doing it to work off the calories acquired in fine eating. There are lots in the city, two within 4 blocks of me, for instance but I'd think you'd not want to schlep out to the 18th. Club Med alone has 22 all over; Paris Anglo has a big list too.

Edited by John Talbott to correct spelling and indicate I have posted a compendium on existing threads on trip planning since 2001.

Edited January 3, 2007 by John Talbott (log)

[orangewasabi]

We are staying in an apartment right near Notre Dame

would you please pop over to the ice cream place Damman's and try the Argan Ice Cream and report in -- David Leibovitz mentions the flavour in his new book/blog and they didn't have any when I was there. I'm so curious about the flavour

Damman's Glacier

1, rue des Grands Degrés

Tel: 01 43 29 15 10

It's literally, just across the bridge from the ND

[Felice]

<We are staying in an apartment right near Notre Dame >

would you please pop over to the ice cream place Damman's and try the Argan Ice Cream and report in -- David Leibovitz mentions the flavour in his new book/blog and they didn't have any when I was there.  I'm so curious about the flavour

Damman's Glacier

1, rue des Grands Degrés

Tel: 01 43 29 15 10

It's literally, just across the bridge from the ND

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I've had Damman's argan oil ice cream and it tastes like pretty much like...argan oil or huile d'argan as they say in French. It was quite good actually but I like argan oil anyway and sometimes buy a spread made of argan oil and almond purée for grilled toast.

[orangewasabi]

I've had Damman's argan oil ice cream and it tastes like pretty much like...argan oil or huile d'argan as they say in French.

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hmm, if the argan flavour comes through then it *would* be good. next time,

[CathyH]

I just signed up and I've lived in the 5eme for one year. Here are my suggestions for where you'll be staying.

First and foremost, print out a list of "what's in season" from this website for your home-cooking. One thing that we painfully learned is that here is Paris, you can't buy everything any time of the year like we do in the States. And do try any cheese in season (my favorite is the "Brin d'Amor" but it's only fresh in July and it loses it's flavor by late August).

As far as "home"-cooking goes, for the everyday, non-"Bon Marche" ingredients, you'll save time by popping over to Place Maubert. There's a produce shop, a fish shop, a butchery, a cheese shop (changed hands to a "Meilleur d'Ouvreur" last summer and the staff has gotten friendlier since), a good charcuterie, a decent wine shop, and a good bakery (closed on Wednesdays). But if you are in town over a Sunday, pop over to Place Monge's market and get your produce from the far back left corner -- you can't miss the line. Most are open Tuesday through Sunday early afternoon.

Around the corner is Eric Kayser if you want to try the best of authentic French baguettes (crispy crust, and oh so good interior). Their Lemon Meringue Tart is trés excellent also.

The basement of the Monoprix in St. Germain across the street from Les Deux Magots and the Church is a good choice for cooking. They carry a better selection and quality of products then other Monoprix's in Paris.

An off-the-beaten path recommendation for a restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe is Grain d'Orge at 15, Rue de l'Arc de Triomphe, 17eme (phone 01 47 54 00 28). It's listed in the Michelin Guide as a "Bib Gourmand" and every time we go there, we hear people speaking French and no one speaking English. They feature menus and foods based on beer (like beer mousse soup - trés trés bien and I don't like to drink beer) and their menus are about 30-40 euros if I remember right.

And if you have any further questions, ask away!

[John Talbott]

I just signed up and I've lived in the 5eme for one year.

And if you have any further questions, ask away!

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Welcome Cathy and thanks for the great advice.

I would differ from you a bit in that it is surprising to me how many products are available year round (if one is willing to pay). 40-50 years ago lettuce in the winter or apples in the summer were truly pathetic, but now grapes from Chile and haricots verts from Kenya in winter seem pretty ubiquitous.

In any case you've really summed things up very well and we look forward to more.

John

[orangewasabi]

the navel oranges I got a week ago at that Monoprix off St Germain are the best oranges I have ever had!

I miss Paris :-(

[Jesikka]

Thank you! We are leaving tonight but will continue to check for more suggestions while we are in Paris. So far we have reservations at L'Arpege on Monday, a private cooking class with Paule Caillat (has anyone taken one of her classes recently?) on Wednesday and lunch reservations at Les Magnolias for Friday.

John, I especially want to thank you. I have printed information for our trip from SO many threads that you have organized or commented on. You have really done a great job making the France forum accessible.

If anyone is interested in grabbing a meal with us while we are in Paris we would be delighted to meet fellow egulleters. You can pm us.

Jessica

the navel oranges I got a week ago at that Monoprix off St Germain are the best oranges I have ever had!

I miss Paris :-(

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