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Best Paris Restaurants of 2006 per


John Talbott

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Restaurants of the Year 2006

In Le Fooding:

Best Latin Resto

Unico

Best correct table

Le Chateaubriand + Sa Qua Na in Honfleur

Best lunch

Youpala Bistrot in Saint-Brieuc

Best place to see and be seen

Hôtel Amour

Best country place

La Cour de Rémi in Bermicourt

Honors

Le Transversal

Culinary merit

Claude Colliot at L'Orénoc

Best street

La rue Paul Bert 75011

In A Nous Paris :

Best World Food

Fogon

Best of the Top Places

L’Orangerie + Prunier

New Bistrots

Au Pere Lapin, Chateaubriand, Ribouldinge, l’Escarbille, Sensi + Taeko

Bars to Eat At

Seafood Bar, Oh Bigre + Atelier des Comperes

Young chefs on the brink

L’Acajou + Jean

In Figaroscope

Best surprise

Et dans mon Coeur il y a…

Best business meal

Pétrus

Best rabble

Ribouldingue

Best sailor

35° Ouest

Best Italian

Mori Vence Bar

Best night

Black Calavados

Best grand style

La Grande Cascade

Best annex of a great chef

Sensing

Best curiosity

Ozu

Best bistro

Le Chateaubriand

Best hotel table

l’Orenoc

Best couscous

Gourbi Palace

Best pizza

San

Best terroir

Le Bascou

Best comeback

Le Caméléon

Best renaissance

Drouant

Best do-over

La Gazetta

Best trendy one

Hôtel Amour

Best museum resto

Les Ombres

Most improbable

Spring

John Talbott

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Restaurants of the Year 2006

The famous John Talbott list :

Best of the best, Find of the Year, Nicest guy, Best one man band

Spring

Best bistro

Le Bistral

Best repeat experiences

Ze Kitchen Galerie

Best October Surprise

Autodidactes

Best December surprise

La Tradition

Best resuscitation

Le Caméléon

Best try by an old master

Sensing

Best out where no one will go

l’Escarbille

Greatest recovery (by Caroline Rostang)

Jarrasse

Nicest fast shuffle between places

Antoine Westerman and Anthony Clement at Drouant

Best Island Home

Chez Nicolas Vagnon on the Ile d’Yeu

Best repricing of the Year

Le Violin d’Ingres

Best old place revived

Astier

Most surprising reprise albeit very expensive

Pharamond

Best foreign

Fogon + Mori Venice Bar

Best meat

Ferrandaises

John Talbott

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Best rabble

Ribouldingue

Hmm, what do they mean by "rabble" here? Is Ribouldingue mobbed now?

That was probably an infelicitous translation of canaille; maybe more appropriate figuratively if not literally would be something like "rough and ready" or "down and dirty" or rapscallion/Rabelesian/roguish/devilish. Somebody French or French-speaking can help me out of this hole.

In any case, I assumed it referred to the food (offal-oriented) rather than clientele.

John Talbott

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That was probably an infelicitous translation of canaille; maybe more appropriate figuratively if not literally would be something like "rough and ready" or "down and dirty" or rapscallion/Rabelesian/roguish/devilish.  Somebody French or French-speaking can help me out of this hole.

More on the rabelaisian, roguish, devilish side than on the "rough and ready side" since a "canaille" dish can be very elaborate . "Canaille" means saucy, naughty, improper but good, or rather all the better from being improper. "La canaille" originally means the underworld, the lower classes as referred to, in a contemptuous way, by the upper. The culinary use of the term refers to offal-centered, high-in-flavor, plebeian dishes like tripe, andouillette, kidneys, a substantial part of the bistrot répertoire. Lyonnais specialties served in bouchons are often described as "canaille".

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce, tripe with onions, boudin noir with apples, ox tongue with sauce piquante, tête de veau are perfect plats canailles. I do think it has to involve organ meat, since a coq au vin could not be described as "canaille".

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"Best sailor" Too funny!

Restaurant 35° Degrés Ouest; seafood - 35, Rue Verneuil, 75007; about E50 per person. A Figaroscope favorite for sure, many of their staff can be seen there. Pascal Yar, owner; Reddy Merienne, chef. My current favorite fish dishes, pan fried langoustine in a water cress velouté, and roast wild bass with cèpes and veal; that, and the place is just around the corner from my flat.

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