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Leaving in a few days to Veracruz...


dimsumfan

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I lived in Mexico for several years but never made it to Veracruz but I would suggest you see the movie "Danzon" to get a flavor for the place. The cafe to go to, I am told, is "gran cafe de parrquai" but you probably know that.

Have a great trip.

The Philip Mahl Community teaching kitchen is now open. Check it out. "Philip Mahl Memorial Kitchen" on Facebook. Website coming soon.

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Have fun! Enjoy the beautiful state of Veracruz. Xalapa/Xico/Coatepec are very special to me.

Last minute tips

--Seek out opportunities to hear/see danzon and son jarocho.

--Try not to overschedule yourself--get some R&R in there too.

Please post upon your return and I hope you have a lovely time.

Caarina

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Your best dining experiences will be at La Parroquia, which encompasses a city block, and Los Portales near the plaza, that is in the location of the old La Parroquia.

Your best meals will be at the little comida corrida restaurants tucked into the Acuario aquarium museum. We had great meals there for not very much money, and chose different fonditas every day.

Don't miss the museum in the home of Agustin Lara, one of the most famous performer's and composers, the Hoagy Carmichael of Mexico as it were.

Also, Zarela Martinez mentions an area outside of the town on the beaches famous for its seafood. I haven't been there, but it shows up on her PBS specials on Veracruz.

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  • 4 weeks later...

We were just in Veracruz. Best place by far was a place from the Martinez web page recommended above--it is called Las Brisas del Mar and is very good. Great Veracruz style fish soup. Can't remember the exact name but it's at the bottom of their soup list, think it's chilpachole. Excellent version here. The seafood cocktails were very popular and pretty good. I really liked the Machaca with crab, which is scrambled eggs with tons of crabmeat.

As for other places, we tried one place near the Aquarium in that row of restaurants. It was called Playa Reyna and was extremely bad. We were there late and only ate at one of the many places there, so I don't know about the rest.

The two big cafes (Parroquia and El Portal) are cool, but probably more about atmosphere and coffee than food. El Portal service was excrutiatingly slow. Lechero is what they call a kind of cafe con leche here and that is excellent. You hit your coffee glass with a spoon to signal them to bring you hot milk.

The town was mobbed with Mexican tourists when we were there. Interesting atmosphere. Overall a cool place, but quite Americanized with a Sam's Club, many chain restaurants, etc.

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