Spain and the World Table

[docsconz]

Wow!

The conference got off to a rolicking start tonight with Conference Chairman Jose Andres leading a star-studded group of Spanish and American Culinary luminaries including Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Harold McGee, Carles, Gaig, Nando Jubany, Dani Garcia, Juan Arzak and Pedro Subijana (the last two via satellite connection), Enric Canut, Llorenc Petras, Gerry Dawes, Karen McNeill and others in an entertaining and informative introduction to the cooking and ingredients of Spain.

This was followed by the opening of the World Marketplace with its cornucopia of foods with a Spanish pedigree. Some such as an authentic paella valenciana and fried anchovies were prepared by masters from Spain here for their expertise and others prepared by American chefs with inspirations (and ingredients) from Spain like the sea urchin prepared by the folks from minibar.

Some personal highlights included chatting with Ferran Adria himself, Llorenc Petras (who I had dinner with at minibar last spring), taking chocolates directly from Oriol Balaguer and commiserating over the fate of this years FC Barcelona squad with Carlos Abellan. In addition the very first person my wife and I ran into on our arrival was Jose Andres himself. All I can say is that man has incredible energy and charisma with a crowd.

Tomorrow the conference starts in earnest. Pictures and more detailed reports will follow, but probably not until I return home.

[docsconz]

While the details and photos will have to wait until I have more time (and I do have lots of photos), a few quick highlights before I get ready for today's ultimate session.

Ferran Adria's presence was everywhere despite the fact that he hasn't officially appeared in the program. My personal highlight was meeting him again,chatting with him and having him sign my copy of the El Bulli 2003/2004 book.

Two break-out demos with Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz. He is a brilliant and intense young man. The American chef who most remindds me of him and vice versa in terms of approach, intensity and sensibilities is Grant Achatz. I will have to get to Mugaritz.

Joan Roca's demo particularly rocked. He is an extremely friendly and brilliant man. He and his staff actually distilled the essence of "earth" and serves it as part of a dish with oysters at his restaurant. He showed a video of the process and the dish. In other hands the concept would not sound so appealing, but from him I would gladly try it.

Lunch was extraordinary with an array of tapas, calcots prepared by Llorenc Petras (messy but delicious) and the best paella I have ever had. Wines from all over Spain have been flowing like water. I have particularly enjoyed various sherries amongst other samplings.

Some other presentations that come immediately to mind included Enric Canut's recent history of cheese in Spain and Joaquin Felipe's virtual dissection and use of the complete tuna including skin and organs. Though I am not mentioning more presentations at the moment, that is not a slight to them as they were uniformly fascinating, salivating and excellent.

The Market Basket dinner last evening was also extraordinary and less crowded. I will wait for more time to give some more detail here.

Today promises to be another extraordinary day, though it will end earlier and without a Market Basket grazing dinner.

[vserna]

I understand the brilliance of Joan Roca's 'earth' process, but to a primitive palate like mine it was rather too intellectual, John - all in all, it rather tasted like liquid dirt... In the end, it was the only thing that didn't fully convince me the other day from an unforgettable lunch at Can Roca.

[JesusBarquin]

Talking about unforgettable meals and about a really primitive foodie (me) who does not care a couple of dimes about intellectual cooking, I must mention a very recent meal at L'Esguard. Should I be asked to rate the restaurant according to this meal, I would not doubt to give it 3 stars (Metropoli Guide, of course).

Edited November 4, 2006 by JesusBarquin (log)

[molto e]

Joan Roca's demo particularly rocked. He is an extremely friendly and brilliant man. He and his staff actually distilled the essence of "earth" and serves it as part of a dish with oysters at his restaurant. He showed a video of the process and the dish. In other hands the concept would not sound so appealing, but from him I would gladly try it.

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Doc,

Do you know when he invented this dish? I perfected a dish similar to this in day camp 1976 or so. No centrifuge needed...wooden stick, camp fire, marshmallow, hershey's chocolate bar, 2 graham crackers...toast marshmallow until caramelized...place it on graham cracker with chocolate bar and cover with other graham cracker to form sandwich...squeeze-marshmallow flies out hits dirt...scoop up and place back on graham cracker...Voilla, Molto E's Smore with dirt essence-delicious .

On a serious note, do not miss Chef Christian Eckmann of Ambria in Chicago serving cod cheeks. I had dinner there and he mentioned that they were serving those at the conference. He spent a year at Arzak and is turning out some GREAT stuff at Ambria.

Molto E

Edited November 5, 2006 by molto e (log)

[docsconz]

I have returned from California to a very busy schedule. I do have a lot to report and wish to do the subject justice as best I can, so it will take some time to put together the details.

[docsconz]

On a serious note, do not miss Chef Christian Eckmann of Ambria in Chicago serving cod cheeks. I had dinner there and he mentioned that they were serving those at the conference. He spent a year at Arzak and is turning out some GREAT stuff at Ambria.

Molto E

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There was so much great food there that somehow I missed those. The Market Place environment was in fact like a busy local market. It was crowded with people (politely) jostling for position at various booths. The quantity and the quality of the food was such that I was already getting full about a quarter of the way through the market. As such we went in different directions the different times we entered. Unfortunately, it was easy to miss specific things.

[docsconz]

I understand the brilliance of Joan Roca's 'earth' process, but to a primitive palate like mine it was rather too intellectual, John - all in all, it rather tasted like liquid dirt... In the end, it was the only thing that didn't fully convince me the other day from an unforgettable lunch at Can Roca.

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We should all have such primitive palates, Victor! I appreciate your comments on the dish and your perception. Nevertheless, I would still be curious to try it for myself. I hope that I someday get the chance.

[Gerry Dawes]

I have returned from California to a very busy schedule. I do have a lot to report and wish to do the subject justice as best I can, so it will take some time to put together the details.

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Greg Drescher, Jose Andres and Roser Torras (behind the scenes) did an incredible job. The moment at the final general session when Thomas Keller introduced Ferran will go down as one of the greatest moments in modern Spanish culinary history.

[docsconz]

I have returned from California to a very busy schedule. I do have a lot to report and wish to do the subject justice as best I can, so it will take some time to put together the details.

←

Greg Drescher, Jose Andres and Roser Torras (behind the scenes) did an incredible job. The moment at the final general session when Thomas Keller introduced Ferran will go down as one of the greatest moments in modern Spanish culinary history.

←

...and perhaps American! The electricity in the air rivaled anything that I have ever experienced, at least in person. I never fully realized just how much personal charisma Ferran Adria has.

By the way, you didn't do such a bad job yourself!

[Gerry Dawes]

I have returned from California to a very busy schedule. I do have a lot to report and wish to do the subject justice as best I can, so it will take some time to put together the details.

←

Greg Drescher, Jose Andres and Roser Torras (behind the scenes) did an incredible job. The moment at the final general session when Thomas Keller introduced Ferran will go down as one of the greatest moments in modern Spanish culinary history.

←

...and perhaps American! The electricity in the air rivaled anything that I have ever experienced, at least in person. I never fully realized just how much personal charisma Ferran Adria has.

By the way, you didn't do such a bad job yourself!

←

Mil gracias, Doc, your comments are very much appreciated. Best, Gerry

Edited November 13, 2006 by Gerry Dawes (log)