New Brunswick Dining

[rozrapp]

For some reason, though New Brunswick is only about 20 minutes from our house, when it comes to dining out, we don't often think about going up that way. Well, a couple of weeks ago, we tried two restaurants there that we had never been to before. I think we've been missing out on some really good stuff!

Soho on George

Sun., July 14, 2002

We wanted to go to Stage Left, which is usually open on Sunday. But when we phoned for a reservation, a recording said that during the summer, they are closed on Sunday. So, we next called Soho on George. They were open and no problem getting a reservation for 7 o’clock. When we arrived, we were seated promptly. The restaurant is very large, with a kind of odd shape. Décor is modern. We were seated in the no smoking section in a cozy little alcove (4 tables) behind an interesting arch. From my seat, I had a good view of the large, open kitchen. The noise level was very comfortable; there was music playing, but I don’t know why they bothered since it was barely audible.

Our waiter arrived bringing with him a card in a stand-up folder on which was printed the daily specials with prices. He verbally described the dishes, then left the card so that we could have time to peruse it and the menu.

Rolls, bread sticks and butter arrived. While the rolls were tasty – hot, crusty and with a good rye flavor – the bread sticks were outrageously delicious and totally addictive!

For first course, we shared of the specials -- grilled shrimp on bed of diced cantaloupe & honeydew, topped with mache greens, with a citrus/yogurt couli (Approx. $10) The portion was smaller than expected, just 3 medium-sized shrimp. But they were perfectly done, and we thought that the fruit and tangy couli were fine accompaniments.

Just after we finished the first course, I noticed that a waiter – not ours – who was serving an adjacent table, brought them an “amuse.” I caught his attention and mentioned to him that we had not gotten an amuse, and could he please find our waiter. Not necessary, he said. He would bring us the “amuse.” The chopped tomato mix (like bruschetta topping) on a cucumber round with red pepper couli was tasty.

For the main course, I had sliced duck breast and very small rounds of smoked duck galantine (sausage?), on a small bed of sautéed romaine, accompanied by couscous and 2 veggie kabobs. I liked all the component, though the peach “sauce” was more like peach preserves. There was a lot of food on the plate, and I took home some of the duck slices and sausages. (Used cold, they made an excellent addition to a salad which I made a couple of days later.) My husband had loin of lamb with mushrooms in a port wine sauce, accompanied by frites in a pastry cup and sautéed spinach. He pronounced everything well-prepared. (Main courses were each $23.) With his meal, he had a glass of California Pinot Noir.

For dessert, we shared a very puckery and delicious Key lime tart, topped with blueberries and crème fraiche, with strawberry couli. ($8) A second miss-step on our waiter’s part: he didn’t tell us about the dessert special. While eating our dessert, we heard the other waiter describing it to his table. No big deal because we would have chosen the tart anyway, but this was our waiter’s second slight miss-step. Again, we mentioned it to the other waiter and the next thing we knew, he brought us a plate of assorted cookies “to make us feel better.”

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Stage Left

Monday, July 15

We called the restaurant late in the afternoon and had no difficulty getting a dinner reservation for 8 p.m. This was our first visit here, and I was eager to try it because of the new chef, Clement Averbech, who had owned a Michelin-starred restaurant in Germany.

We were seated promptly in the non-smoking side room which had only 5 very widely-spaced tables. Décor was “clubby,” and it was quiet.

The menu was the menu -- no specials. You can see most of what’s on it on the restaurant’s web site. (Link below.) After a few minutes, our server came to take our order. She brought the wine – since I don’t drink, my husband selected a half bottle of a Cote du Rhone ($15) – and, after dealing with a balky cork, opened it. Rolls and butter arrived. The rolls were o.k., but nothing special.

Nearly half an hour went by with no food coming out of the kitchen for us. We began to worry a bit -- not exactly an auspicious beginning. Our server came over and apologized for the delay. When she left, I commented to my husband that, for a restaurant of this caliber, I was surprised that no “amuse” had been served. A moment later, our server came toward our table carrying a plate which I thought would contain our first course. Instead, it held two very small cracker-like discs topped with mounds of foie gras mousse, “Compliments of the chef,” she said. Since most restaurants serve the “amuse” almost immediately after orders are taken, I suspect that serving an “amuse” may not be s.o.p. in this restaurant, and that these morsels were the chef’s way of apologizing for leaving us with nothing to eat for 30 minutes. They were delicious.

Shortly after, the first course finally arrived. And I am pleased to report that at least the wait was worth it. We shared perfectly sauteed asparagus in aged balsamic with shaved Parmesan. ($12) This was an excellent combination of flavors.

We did not have to wait too long for our main courses. I had Colorado lamb loin – done medium rare, exactly as I had requested – with grilled potatoes, eggplant marmelade and spring garlic. ($35) Superb! My husband had wood grilled filet mignon with nebbiola sauce, wilted spinach and potato fence (aka steakhouse fries arrange like a lattice). He pronounced it all superb as well. ($35)

The cheese tray was brought to our table and the server explained each cheese to us. While they all looked very tempting, we were not going to have both cheese and dessert. Therefore, we asked the waiter to bring the dessert menu so that we could see if there was anything on it that we would prefer instead of cheese. One item listed was a pear tart, but our server told us that they had run out of pears and were substituting peaches. Much better, since it IS peach season. The tart we shared was divine: the pastry was very flakey and buttery, and the white peach slices just sweet enough. ($11.50)

As you can see, this is not exactly an inexpensive restaurant. But Chef Averbeck’s food is definitely well worth it. When we were presented with our bill, we noticed that our dessert had been comped. Our server never mentioned it, and we said nothing, presuming that this was because of the untoward delay at the beginning of the meal. Very classy of them, I think.

Stage Left

[Rosie]

You can buy those fabulous bread sticks that they serve at Soho to take home.

[rozrapp]

Rosie, I knew that the bread sticks are for sale and asked the waiter to check on the price. I think he said they were $8/package. I didn't buy them because I wanted them to remain something special to look forward to having the next time we go there.

[Rosie]

I stick them in the freezer and nibble on them when I'm hungry. They don't last too long though!

[PaulaJ]

We dined at Stage Left this past spring. They brought us

the same amuse ---although in a more timely manner.

We,too, found it delicious.

[chopjwu12]

the chef there is fairly new. A good man from what i understand. I believe he game from a michelan star restaurant somewhere. Nicholas said he is a really nice guy. The people from stage left come into nicholas every so often. I have to return the favor soon since ive never been to stage left.

Rozrapp you should try the frog and the peach sometime. Rosie if you dont mind me asking have you dined at the frog and the peach?

[Rosie]

Rosie if you dont mind me asking have you dined at the frog and the peach?

Why should I mind you asking?

Yes, I have eaten at Frog and the Peach but not for a few years. Last time I was at Stage Left was when Yves was there. Their new executive chef, Clemens Averbeck owned "Averbeck's" in Germany, which held a Michelin one-star rating for the fourteen years it was open. We also used to dine at Panico's in New Brunswick and haven't been back there in a few years either.

[rozrapp]

chopjwu12 posted on Jul 31 2002, 01:59 AM

Rozrapp you should try the frog and the peach sometime.

David,

We have eaten at the Frog and the Peach a couple of times, but that would be quite a number of years -- and chefs -- ago. Back when it first opened -- I would guess it's been around now for about 20 years -- and our finances were of a different level, it was, for us, a special occasion restaurant. Now, fortunately, since we don't have to wait for a special occasion, I hope to get around to trying it again sometime soon.

Rosie posted on Jul 31 2002, 08:27 AM

Last time I was at Stage Left was when Yves was there.

When Yves (I think his surname is St. Jerome) had his own eponymous restaurant in Montclair, we had dinner there once and thought the food quite good.

Rosie, did you ever dine there? If so, was his menu at Stage Left anything like his cuisine at his own place?

[Rosie]

I don't remember the menu at Yves in Montclair (BYO) as being similar to Stage Left. He is now working at a country club.