The Italian

[J_elias86]

Hey all,

Thought I'd share a nice place with you all. The Italian. New up market restaraunt in the Melbourne CBD. (I think little collins, Can't remember) I think it had a nice balance between rustic and honest fare. Its seasonal, with its mainstays. Mind you, its only been open for seven months, So whose to know what a Mainstay is!

The decor is tacky. bad and all thing crap. But last time a checked, I don't eat the surroundings. Don't get me wrong, were not talking grungey, dirty back bar. We are talking try hard, nouvelle, modern architure, with high ceilings and asian tastes. In a place with as authentic italian food as this, i think there is an identity crisis. Nonethelss, lets talk food.

Nyway on to the food. For entree had soft polenta with trippa with a sweetish tomato sauce. It was great. I went to italy last year and really felt like a hit of tradition. The polenta was creamy without resembling a cup full of butter, and the trippa was amongst the most tender I've ever had. For main, gnocci with veal stew. Again, the sauce was quite sweet to taste, not dessert sweet but prob some sugar in there to deal with those out of season tomatoes. The veal was tender and the gnocci was fresh, as gnocci should be! For dessert, chocolate fondant. Not as oooozeing as anticpated, somewhat more cakey. But, it was a welcome twist, and still tasted fantastic with the vanilla icecream.

John Lethlean (the agre head critic) wrote it up during the year as one of the best meals he had eaten during the year. (pan fired lambs brains). I must have lost it somewhere amidst the massive menu. In any case, I'm going this weekend!

If any more q's about it. feel free to ask.

Sorry got uni exams, otherwise, if i get a chance I'll add some more places.

Cheers.

J

[PCL]

Thanks J.

report back after the weekend!

And welcome to eG!!

[J_elias86]

Hey yall,

I'm back. Went on Friday night. Still no brains, must have been taken off the menu anyway, I'lvv give the rundown. It was my Bro's b'day, so a festive night was had. For entree, I had the pan fried whitebait which was bought locally and was a special for the evening. It was crispy, not too salty, and was served on a bed of rocket with an olive oil and lemon dressing. The fish itself had a great crunch too it, and was well complemented by the salad. My brother started with gnocci with veal stew. What I had on the last occassion. The gnocci was once again perfectly light, and well complemented by the stew. + one credit for consistency. My mother was dealt a dainty plate of melted buffala mozzarela on top of an array of herb encrusted mushrooms. For a dish that I thought would be more subtle, suprised me by playing on the wonderful stringiness of the cheese and utilised the mushrooms for quite an intense flavour. My Sister had the highlight of the entrees, fresh angel hair pasta with a fresh tomato sauce laced with crab. I think it also had chilli through it. The sizing was quite large but the actual pasta was well presented and the freshness of the tomato held up suprisingly well for what I would have imagined to be more of summery dish. Nonthless it appeased. My father's entree of leak and lentil soup was solid, but nothing to yell to nonna about.

Mains were interesting. My mother a sister ordered a veal cutlet alla milanese, with tomato salad. The veal was melting tender, crumed perfectly, not over fried. The highlight of the meal. My brother had the melanzane lasange, which was somewhat curisouly poised on the menu in close proximity to a regular lasange. Nevertheless, it was perfectly crumbed on top, perfectly fried and tasted as a lasange should. It came, two pieces of mozarella melted on each slice of eggplant. It was great. My father had a somewhat plain, but fresh whiting. And I was left yearning.

I ordered a penne amatriciana. The sauce on the pasta was fine. My first mouth was consumed with bacon was infused with flavours of garlic and a strong tomato sauce. However, my first mouthful of pasta brought my hopes crashing. What I wanted to authentic italian, turned into traditional melbourne. The pasta was horribly overcooked. I proceeded to give a mouthfull to each family member. They concurred. I sent it back.

Maybe spending a month in Italy has turned me unrealistic. But that Penne was dried pasta. It was not fresh. Should we not expect al dente pasta in Australian italian restaraunts? Even the cheapest of restaraunts in italy were able to deliver perfect al dente. I sent it back so that the chef would realise his error. I was not angry. I just want that sort of thing to improve in melbourne. It is so basic. Yet I cannot ever recall having al dente pasta in a restaraunt. If I was at a local bistro I would not have sent it back. But at a restraunt, named THE ITALIAN, in the CBD. I believe it was justified. (they took it off the bill in case you are wondering).

BTW, stayed for dessert (proof I was not angry). Polenta and almond cake served with mascarpone.

Does anything about thaty not sound rich? I don't think so.

Does anything about that not sound good? I don't think so.

In summary, Fodd was great except for the pasta abberation. Would I go back, that depends if someone can find me al dente pasta. If your planning on going, don't order the dried pastas.

Besides that, everything else was authentic. mumble, growl mumble..

Entree/pasta 19 Mains 27.

Quite good value.

Signing off yall.

J

[PCL]

nice work J. I love festive family dinners. So much food, and you can share.

For al dente pasta, try the following:

- Florentino Cellar Bar, check the board for daily pasta specials

- Il Nostro Barretto, GPO lane, menu changes weekly, and usually one stand out pasta a week, with two selections to pick from

[J_elias86]

Hey PCL,

I tried Il Nostro Baretto today for lunch. Thanks for the hint, it was great.

I had risotto, my brother farfelle and we were both impressed.

This is the exact type of italian, and price range which we yearn for.

Haven't tried Grossi yet, probably next on the cards. (If I can bring myself to walk through the hideous doors). Don't you think melbourne needs more of these!

I reviewed it on my blog f you want to read further.

The day of the expanding man

Many thanks,

J

[PCL]

Nice read. Well done.

A couple of notes however:

The guy who runs the place, Umberto Lallo, is Cafe Cucina alumni. He was their sommelier/accountant. He also co-founded Sud on King St with Giovanni Patane (who puts in a few shitfs a week at IBN) who is also a veteran of Cafe Cucina, right there on the frontline that is Chapel St and then later, Il Bacaro in the City.

We're talking about warhorses who know what they are doing. Signore Terzini has in my opinion left restauranting a little too 'high' of centre, preferring to focus on Sydney type lifestlye and bars and clubs. Whereas these guys, the Cavalieri if you like, soldier on. They do good stuff.

RE: Grossi, forget the fucking doors, go inside, eat, learn, enjoy. And if you mean whether I think Melbourne needs more places like Grossi F, yes, I do. It's old school. It's real. It's fucking fantastic.

When I get back into town, I will give the Italian a go however...

[Shinboners]

RE: Grossi, forget the fucking doors, go inside, eat, learn, enjoy. And if you mean whether I think Melbourne needs more places like Grossi F, yes, I do. It's old school. It's real. It's fucking fantastic.

Yep. And as one of my Italian buddies pointed out, "The Florentino - they give you proper serves, not a plate with nothing on it. If they tried to skimp on the portions, the Italians would riot".

When I get back into town, I will give the Italian a go however...

←

When you get back into town, give me a call. We still have to catch up. Longrain, Shira Nui....whereever.

[J_elias86]

It is amazing how many starting points emanated from cafe e cucina. Have you been to North Bondai Italian? I do believe that Icebergs, is a little, if not a lot too expensive. But my mum went to nth bondai and brought me back a menu. Whilst again, probably costing more than it should, everything is like that in Sydney. It would be interesting to consider what such a restauarant would charge in melbourne. Also, whether or not it would be embraced by the local community. Il Nostro would probably be in the same league as nth bondai, not icebergs. I'm not really sure where icebergs stands.

[PCL]

Never heard of North Bondai, but then again, I'm not a Sydneysider. Maybe some of our Sydney people can elaborate, but you might have to start a new thread... they don't generally look at Melbourne reviews unless it's a 'big name'

Icebergs is expensive, and inconsistent, and has become a bit like what most Sydney places become... enough said. then again, i'm probably being a bit cheeky.

Shin, sorry dude, I kind of left in a hurry. Will let you know... PM you soon!

[J_elias86]

I believe Fratelli Paradiso is in the same mould as North Bondai. But yes, it should be a Sydney thread. BTW, my brother traveled to grossi yesterday and had a late lunch in the cellar bar. He loved it. I'm going there asap.

Cheers.

[PCL]

Go ASAP. If you like offal, and you should the trippa is one of the best in town, if not THE.

[J_elias86]

Went to Grossi Cellar bar today.

Will review for my blog.

In short, Papardelle con salsicce (sauage ragout), my brother had pumpkin ravioli with sage and butter.

Fantastic and simple. Sat at the bar and the atmosphere was really good. Great pasta that was cooked with expertise. I am looking forward to try the main restaurant soon!

Oh yeah, I love offal. Locking in that trippa!! As discussed in that other thread, Offal is so underrated!

Edited July 15, 2006 by J_elias86 (log)

[J_elias86]

The Italian Was reviewed today in THE AGE. 14/20.

Lethlean complained about the selection of fresh pasta instead of dry pasta for his particular meal.

He should be thankful that his was al-dente, mine was overcooked enough to be served to a toothless grandma!

The review is attatched here:

Review of the Italian from epicure

Edited August 8, 2006 by J_elias86 (log)