Dessert Deconstruction

[dejaq]

I have a question for everyone concerning a couple of things I have run into in my travels, these last few years...

Recently I have seen some incredible, I mean absolutely killer stuff out there recently pulled off the four corners of the place we call planet Terra.

The question I propose has more to do with composition vs. continuity, just exactly how concerned are you when you hook some thing together, are you more concerned about aesthetics, (as seems the current defacto trend) or are you thinking of "how does this thing actually eat". What's going on when I run a fork thru this dessert, for some this is a trivial concern, but to others here at ground zero, like Jeff Bubin of Vidalia, it is very much of a concern.

a few years ago, someone noted that my dessert's looked too perfect, almost manufactured, they said what they had in mind was a more "handcrafted custom look" I thought about it and actually, did pull back off and toned it back a bit.

I don't suggest that we follow Amernick's lead, and suggest that everything should "not look exactly perfect", I only state that we are in the biz of compiling a product that most usually, people first eat with their eyes.

My philosophy is simply this-Taste is everything, tricking it out any which way after the fact is the easy part.

I welcome your opinions...

Michael

[Sugarella]

I agree that taste is absolutely everything. There's no point doing it if it's going to end up tasting mediocre. A close second would be the way textures work together and complement one another in any given pastry.

As for being told your work looks too perfect, well, I'm in the same camp, and I say screw other people and what they think. Think of someone's motivation when that's a complaint. There's nothing wrong with doing the very best you can do, all the time. I'm not dumbing down my work for anybody.

[K8memphis]

I like both looks and I think there's room for both. Rustic and Perfect.

But yeah it's gotta taste spectacular.

[docsconz]

I don't think that thee is really anything to argue here. If something looks great but doesn't taste great it belongs on a wall and not on a plate. Nevertheless the best dishes are those that not only taste great but look great too. A little humor or cleverness doesn't hurt either.

[Stephanie Wallace]

I think the basic premise of this debate--that these things are inherently contradictory--is nonsense. It only appears that way because of the difficulty in achieving %100 in all aspects of a dish. Incredible taste, incredible texture, incredible appearance and voila, you have something amazing. Believe that one of these things can only be achieved at the expense of another and you limit yourself whether you are a chef or a consumer.

[dejaq]

Thanks for your comments,

please allow me the opportunity to reflect on a couple of key issues, as per Sugarella's response, well your not going to believe this, the GM asked me last Saturday to actually "tone down half the line" and Americanize it, he seems to feel that our customers are actually intimidated by some of this stuff, LOL not at his comment, but how I played it off, by acting as a good politician and said something to the effect, "you know actually I was going to make that recommendation about three weeks ago"LOL hysterically at this point. The owner and his wife who later "joined" in were discussing you know what Michael just said to me, do you know that he actually thought of what we were going to propose three weeks ago! those Jedi mind tricks, gosh, they only took 43 years to learn, it's truly wonderful to have the ability to "steer" a conversation.

I hope you guys got a kick outta that!

Before this thread gets to far off the beaten path, I think the focus was that from what I have seen Aesthetics matter overwhelmingly, I have seen things that you may very possibly have to cut with a surgical knife (lower lateral cut, to the anterior side of the mediastinum of that Bavarian whatchama call it please...)just to eat...

I think a dessert should, yes:

A. Taste pretty good

B. look hot

C. be eatable, this is subjective folks

D. be balanced. flavors, textures, contrasts, and complimentaries.

E. be original, or proprietary in composition

the clown over at the restaurant that said my stuff looked "manufactured" was looking for more of an in house a la carte look and vibe, In the interest of time on a practical, I simply provided him with a about five items that I thought he would enjoy, they did, he was just looking for something different.

Thanks again, it’s been a tough day and a tougher week at that, I am getting out on a boat and celebrating my Birthday tomorrow, I will try to forget about the amateurs that I (we) have to deal with every single day out there, and enjoy the day with friends and family, everyone have a happy Memorial Day.

Peace,

Michael

[bripastryguy]

Much of what you say rings true mIchael. I pride myself that my food taste as good as it looks, very much into the look. Even was said to be true by SAM CHAMPION OF ABC 7 NY EYEWITNESS NEWS (shameless plug, sorry had to do it) But on the other hand I deal with some mean, I mean meeeen super-critical chefs in Long Islands Country Club Scene and if the shit isnt right on the money, they send you packing and theres 5 other guys right behind you trying for their business. I use the word Artisan when describing my pastry, it is made with the use of molds and shapes but are all finished by hand, in which case I am saying that a Human being did these so if their is a slight (ever so slight) imperfection that his a human signature (maybe thats what gets me restaurant business)

I've also had to tone down the brighter more European stuff and switch to some more "Fun-Lovin" American desserts. So just re-invent classic shit and do that vodoo that you do. My customers are asking for alittle nostalgia " Charlotte Russe" and such.... They even want to call my galettes PIES!!! what to do? We are all artists with many Patrons, we cook for them and how it makes us feel...man, i must be watching to much Top Chef

[JeanneCake]

Thanks again, it’s been a tough day and a tougher week at that, I am getting out on a boat and celebrating my Birthday tomorrow, I will try to forget about the amateurs that I (we) have to deal with every single day out there, and enjoy the day with friends and family, everyone have a happy Memorial Day.

Peace,

Michael 

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Happy Birthday!

[Sugarella]

Happy Birthday.

the GM asked me last Saturday to actually "tone down half the line" and Americanize it, he seems to feel that our customers are actually intimidated by some of this stuff, LOL not at his comment, but how I played it off, by acting as a good politician and said something to the effect, "you know actually I was going to make that recommendation about three weeks ago"

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I don't understand.... they said tone it down and you agreed just like that? Isn't this the place where you just started recently and have been getting things back on track? Is this the same GM who had everything going to hell before? If so, maybe you should remind them that you're the pastry chef, not them. Although it's true you're not the boss and tey get the final word, I would t least expect a little dialogue back and forth before things are changed so easily.

I thought your work looked great when you showed it to us before...is it not selling? In what way are people intimidated by it?? Are the descriptions of each pastry not clear enough for people, or are they just timid to try new things? Are they (the bosses) looking for tamer flavour combinations, or just want things to have a different look?

[dejaq]

Thank you ladies and Gents, most kind,

Just got back in from the Bay, just south of Annapolis, had a great time, Vivienne and Fabricio were the best of hosts, I really do love them both. I think my 6 month old son even had a blast, he seems fascinated by water.

Sugarella, I can't agree with you more, I have to be honest, I like your style, draw a line in the sand, they dare not cross it! If there is one thing that I have learned in 43 years, is that it takes all kinds in life, sometimes a lot of patience having to deal with people that are not native to the food industry, but are in the food industry, if you follow. An Individual may for example, know how to bark orders, but when it comes to administration, really know very little, this has occurred over and over...I take it as I call it, I am the type of person that can size up an individual with in five minutes of meeting them, I am never judgmental, I basically just accept people as they are, with their strengths, and maybe a few weaknesses, we only human...

In the case of the GM, he is originally from Pittsburg, PA, they are used to a whole other ball of wax from there, he is a good guy, he quite simply doesn't know food, at least not at this level. I had to remind his wife of my qualifications, the other day when she pressed an issue, I didn't want to seem rude, just a gentle reminder-Elvis has not left the building just yet.

I am going to be honest also about my work, it is the tomorrow land stuff I have always excelled at,” the next years model" prototype, not quite ready for prime time yet stuff, it’s all me, my vision, my tastes, the "Porru" aesthetic, this whole project is way overkill for Fairfax, just having finished my DC tour at the President's Guest house. It's like taking a twin turbo intercooler behemoth and putting it a school zone, your bound to scare some of the kiddies, and wake up the farm animals.

Do I care, heck no, have I significantly improved things and multiplied sales by a six fold margin, hell yes, does someone who signs my check, have an opinion, yes respectfully, am I a good politician, you better believe it.

bottom line, sometimes in an effort to keep the peace, you have to tow the line...remember what I said about people, they are only human, half the time the ones I deal with quite frankly tax my patience, but I interface with them B/C I have to .

Sugarella,

I think to also answer one of your other questions, there seems to be a lot of ladies out there that come in Oh and Ahhh the stuff but then wonder how many more minutes on the stair master are they going to have to be, to burn those things off, at least that's my impression.

There is another, aspect to this, and it makes sense, at least to me, when is the last time you were in a Lamborghini dealership inquiring about pricing and if you could take her out for a spin, If the product is too intimidating, on the level of a mausoleum, then yes people can be intimidated, my product is going in "that" direction, and there is really not a anything I am prepared to do about it... If you saw what i have developmentally in the pipe, whew, you'll see what I am talking about later...

Michael

[bripastryguy]

happy birthday man!!!!!!!!!!!

[dejaq]

happy birthday man!!!!!!!!!!!

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dude, I am calling you on Tuesday.

[chiantiglace]

I think this subject has been beaten to death. Not in egullet, but in all realities. People have been fighting this since the 80's as I can remember, when plated dessert started going up, up and up.

And no, I don't believe taste is everything. You you have a plate full of tannish-grey food that tastes divine, who will ever know it tastes great? The reason I am asking this is because by laws of gastronomy we eat with our eyes first. They do more for our taste buds than you may realize. Yes if you blindfold someone there taste increases because of the loss of a sense, but people aren't going to let you blindfold them at a table. You need to find a balance in your desserts. Do no sacrifice tast for appearance, but do not neglect the look. Find flavors/textures/temperatures you like and blend them appropriately. Then find a way to appeal to ones vision. It's a psychologic thing. Just when your on the brink of going down the big slope of a rollercoaster, and then pulled off instantaneously without dropping, is the same as eating a work of art with not flavor. But to throw someone right into the drop without giving them a "birds eye view" then they can never really appreciate what they just had. You remember taste when you taste again, if you have an image that stands out, then you can re-attatch that taste.

Strike your guests eyes and tongue, everything matters in the world of pleasure. The better you bring to the table, the more they will appreciate it.

[filipe]

I don't think that thee is really anything to argue here. If something looks great but doesn't taste great it belongs on a wall and not on a plate. Nevertheless the best dishes are those that not only taste great but look great too. A little humor or cleverness doesn't hurt either.

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And what about if something looks great, tastes great... but it's simply VERY HARD to be eaten ?

Example : Pierre Herme's Cherish at the top of the Cake

How do one cut this cake? It's like 25-30cm tall... and with that shape...

[dejaq]

I don't think that thee is really anything to argue here. If something looks great but doesn't taste great it belongs on a wall and not on a plate. Nevertheless the best dishes are those that not only taste great but look great too. A little humor or cleverness doesn't hurt either.

←

And what about if something looks great, tastes great... but it's simply VERY HARD to be eaten ?

Example : Pierre Herme's Cherish at the top of the Cake

How do one cut this cake? It's like 25-30cm tall... and with that shape...

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Oi filipe, Bejos no bubbum do Pierre Herme!

that is a wild signature benchmark cake to be certain, it's the kind of cake that sits in a showcase, and beckens you to do envoke a reaction, similar to the green crystal calling Cal El, to the fortress of solitude, can we refuse? Do I have enough on my line of credit to drop better than 50.00 US dollars on this thing, hmmm, let me think about that, I just ripped thru 1000.00 in the last two days on this recon. mission, and have probably gained 15 pounds... is another PH, masterpiece worth it, empathically yes, no matter how it tastes, or your final impression. extreme sports folks do it for the rush, we Pastry Chef's do it B/C it's there.

by the way, I like your Blog, it's Hot, sexy, better than cooool! I am finishing mine on MySpace and will post it for all to see, it's running in tandem, with two in sync. pilot projects that everyone here at EG is simply going to fall head over heels over.

be patient during our construction dust...

Obrigado,

Michael

[Tweety69bird]

I don't think that thee is really anything to argue here. If something looks great but doesn't taste great it belongs on a wall and not on a plate. Nevertheless the best dishes are those that not only taste great but look great too. A little humor or cleverness doesn't hurt either.

←

And what about if something looks great, tastes great... but it's simply VERY HARD to be eaten ?

Example : Pierre Herme's Cherish at the top of the Cake

How do one cut this cake? It's like 25-30cm tall... and with that shape...

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The cake looks like it's already been scored on the side for serving portions. I would tip it onto it's side and slice away.