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Marketing Bordeaux: Varietals on the Label


Rebel Rose

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Bordeaux winemakers reveal what's in the bottle

Wine lovers may notice something unusual on the labels of new releases from Saint-Emilion, Medoc and other Bordeaux areas this spring. Bottles whose labels in the past displayed little more than a fancy crest and a bunch of French regulatory gobbledygook now reveal something else: what's actually in the wine.

The moves reflect a concerted effort among Bordeaux winemakers -- a group best-known for producing some of the most highly sought after and expensive wines on the planet -- to more fully disclose their varietals. They also reflect an emerging eagerness on the part of French wine producers, which have struggled with declining world-wide market share for years, to reach out to Americans, who are drinking more wine overall -- but generally fewer bottles from France. Indeed, dollar sales of French table wine represent about 11 percent of dollar sales of all the imported table wine sold in U.S. grocery stores, mass merchandisers and liquor stores, according to the research firm ACNielsen. Today, many Americans base their wine-buying decisions on the type of grape in the wine, rather than the vineyard or region.

The article lists about a dozen labels that will be changing to varietal listings this year. Given that the ultra-premiums will not be affected, anyone care to place bets (for virtual M&Ms) on which houses will be switching to or including varietals?

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Mary Baker

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Anything that informs the consumer is bound to help. If "los Fancos" ship quality goods - at a reasonable price their market share should improve. It they don't, it won't.

I will be watching - lets see what develops.

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I'll be disappointed if the labels of classed growth wines, first growth down to cru bourgeois, depart from the classic designs. Most buyers have had to learn what grapes and areas go into an AOC designation, and we have had tolearn the vintage charts, too. A back label with specific details, as in California or Australian wines, might be a good addition. But a popularized front label will defy tradition and re-iterate what has been mandated since 1855.

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I am seeing a number of Classified Growths in the B.C. market appearing with back label information regarding grape varieties. I have no issues with this. If it helps sell Bordeaux great for them. It would be a shame to see the grape varietals on the front label.

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Stephen Bonner

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Bordeaux winemakers reveal what's in the bottle
Wine lovers may notice something unusual on the labels of new releases from Saint-Emilion, Medoc and other Bordeaux areas this spring. Bottles whose labels in the past displayed little more than a fancy crest and a bunch of French regulatory gobbledygook now reveal something else: what's actually in the wine.

The moves reflect a concerted effort among Bordeaux winemakers -- a group best-known for producing some of the most highly sought after and expensive wines on the planet -- to more fully disclose their varietals. They also reflect an emerging eagerness on the part of French wine producers, which have struggled with declining world-wide market share for years, to reach out to Americans, who are drinking more wine overall -- but generally fewer bottles from France. Indeed, dollar sales of French table wine represent about 11 percent of dollar sales of all the imported table wine sold in U.S. grocery stores, mass merchandisers and liquor stores, according to the research firm ACNielsen. Today, many Americans base their wine-buying decisions on the type of grape in the wine, rather than the vineyard or region.

The article lists about a dozen labels that will be changing to varietal listings this year. Given that the ultra-premiums will not be affected, anyone care to place bets (for virtual M&Ms) on which houses will be switching to or including varietals?

There is absolutely no reason not to put the varietal composition of a wine on the label.

Tradition?

Silly--many labels have changed over the years--there is no "label tradition." (eg one time Mouton labels had no artwork on them).

A big reason European wine sales have suffered is precisely because the consumer does not know what is in the bottle.

In fact--many wine geeks and experts would have a hard time offering up the blends of most wines on the market.

If there is one piece of information that will provide some idea of what a wine might taste like it is the varietal used to make the wine.

There is no reason that a consumer should not be able to compare a Syrah from Australia with a wine from the Rhone.

Given that many wine buyers are familiar with Syrah from Australia and the US--France can at least compete by indicating that Syrah is used in many fine wines from the Rhone etc.

With the huge market for Sauvignon Blanc why shouldn't the many fine examples from the Loire be part of the mix?

Maybe someone will offer up a reason for keeping varietal info off of labels that makes sense--I just can't think of a single one.

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There are two reasons that Bordeaux market share is dropping, price and quality. It is possible to get wines of good to superb quality from many sources as compared to 40-50 years ago. The wines don't taste like Bordeaux and can't but the new generation of wine drinkers have not had thier palates formed on traditional European wines. I still purchase some Bordeaux futures but mostly wines from around the globe. The only French Bugundies i have had from recent vintages was a paid tasting of top crus both red and white. Ordered a top White Burgundy that my wife liked and when we tried the first bottle of the case, it did not taste at all like what was served at the tasting. There is no reason to purchase Classified Growths if siutable wine can be had from elsewhere for less money except for the snob factor. The situation is similar to Cuban cigars. Todays Cuban cigar is not better than the top Dominican or Nicarauguan cigar. In fact due to quality control, Cubans are a bad purchase today. But you can't tell that to snobs. -Dick

Edited by budrichard (log)
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