TN: TAC Spring Vendors Sale

[jrufusj]

SPRING 06 TAC VENDOR SALE - Tokyo American Club (3/3/2006)

The semi-annual vendor tasting and sale at TAC. Almost 150 wines open for two hours. No way to taste everything or to anything real justice, but some interesting snapshots. I can't help gravitating toward the Burg or German tables, but I try to use these as an opportunity to try at least a few things I might not otherwise try.

Prices are per bottle in US Dollars for case lots unless indicated otherwise.

• N.V. Bellavista Franciacorta Brut - Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta
  Big and broad but bursting with bubbly goodness. That’s how it looks with an aggressive and large-beaded mousse. That’s how it smells with white plum and a little cherry and some ripe apple and some rocky mineral on the nose. That’s how it tastes with a broad and pleasing mousse allied to more big white stone fruit. Good fruit sweetness, a hint of yeast, and some more mineral make a slightly short finish good while it lasts. A good wine at a good price, this particular disgorgement would probably be a little better hidden away for a couple of years before consumption. ($23.45)
  
• 1996 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
  Good pleasant mousse and a hint of golden richness that telegraphs what is to come. I’ve got no experience with this house, but I’ll be seeking more. Rich bread and baked apple nose with some (clean) leesiness reminds me of Grande Dame. Palate picks up enough citrus and a tiny streak of elegance that it doesn’t topple over. Again, a nice masculine style that could be a ringer in a Grande Dame vertical. Big and rich enough to drink now, but will probably benefit from a little more settling in and development. Nice to discover. ($40.09 at half-case lot)
  
• 1998 Pol Roger Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne, Épernay, Champagne
  Copper and steel. That is, a nice deep copper color and that steely/irony structure that I love in rosé Champagne. This is somewhere between the steely-iron freshness of cold water and the rich blood-tinged iron that sometimes appears. That steeliness combines with light and bright cherry and white plum fruit to produce real pleasure. Bead is nicely small and unusually restrained, but it plays well in this package. I like most wines old, but this one screams to be tried right now. Of course, it will also get better! A winner. ($43.30 at bottle lot)
  
• 1995 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Brut - France, Champagne, Épernay, Champagne
  Nose is still young and tight, but already shows the Churchill punch and size. Typical apple aromas combine with a little more mineral than I am used to in this cuvee. And that’s about it for the nose. Great freshness and tiny bead texture on the palate with some nut and buttery flour that then combine with a little citrus on the finish to stay fresh. Tiny hints of yeastiness and the deep sweet light red fruit is there in wispy imaginary bits but this is still very, very young. Promises to be very good as well, but to evolve much more slowly than some of the more forward ‘95s. Very nice wine at the price. ($92 at bottle lot)
  
• 2002 Egon Müller Riesling QbA - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Saar
  This has that pretty light green-tinged yellow that always makes my mouth water. Well, so does the riverstone and whiteflower and limey peach nose. And so does the very slightly sweet apple-lime and mineral palate. Simpler than the Pradikat wines from this producer, but no less pleasing. Fresh and perfectly balanced between a little pleasing sweetness and a bright acidity. And the finish ain’t shabby either! A bottling done just for the Japanese market, this is labeled simply as MSR Riesling QbA but is all from estate fruit. Not sure what is different from the normal Scharzhoff QbA, but I don’t really care. Back up the truck. ($15.46)
  
• 2003 Schloss Vollrads Riesling QbA Trocken - Germany, Rheingau
  Nicely oily Rheingau riesling appearance leads to some peach and tropical fruit on the nose, along with a slight hint of smoky mineral and the kind of heavy white summer flowers that grow in New Orleans and other old southern coastal towns. On the palate, a little more mineral and a bit of zippy lime acidity join in to give some much needed freshness. This is ’03 and this is Rheingau heavy, but this is also quite good. Kabinett at least and maybe Spätlese for a QbA price. I’d buy this, but only after I’d bought a truckload of the Muller QbA. But that’s reflective of my prejudices more than any clear quality difference. ($15.89)
  
• 2004 Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Gebling - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
  Typical peach and pepper and peas on the nose. Palate picks up some grapefruit and mineral, but there’s a sense of a bit of mushy sweetness that is distracting. Very slight spritzig note helps to counteract. Relatively simple but more persistent than I expected. This cries out for food, but not loudly enough for me to buy more than a bottle to try at a more leisurely pace. ($15.34)
  
• 2002 François Petitjean Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Chablis
  Fairly ripe apple/lemon nose with enough mineral and cool brightness to be interesting. On the palate, seems a little less ripe (to the good) and very typical but not remarkable. Goes down easy and, without seeing the pricetag, I’d like to drink more. But this lacks the concentration and finish to make me want to pay the price and take home a case. Actually, nicely typical of Fourchaume with the riper and rounder nose, plus enough crispness and minerality to say Chablis. It just lacks the concentration of a 1er cru – or even a top notch Chablis AC – and that shouldn’t be an issue in this vintage. ($23.70)
  
• 2003 Michel Coutoux Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
  Nose shows a bit of oak spice straightaway, but this settles quickly to reveal good and detailed slightly smoky apple and citrus fruit plus a nice cool stoniness. There’s a hint of sweetness on the nose that, like the oak, stays just enough out of the way to let the clean smokey fruit and mineral come through. The palate begins the same way with real concentration and weight that still has fairly fresh fruit and a little definition. To this point, a bit oakier/bigger/riper than I would choose, but still very well made. On the finish, the curse of ’03 comes out with a cloying sweetness that just tips this over the top. In another vintage, it might just hug the line without going over. Good in its way, but not my way. ($34.36 at quarter case lot)
  
• 2002 Lucien Le Moine Meursault Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
  Had never tried one of these before, but had heard the name. Based on this one, I’m still not sure what to think. As I got my pour, I heard two people exclaiming loudly (actually lecturing bystanders loudly) about how great a Meursault this is. Then I put my nose in and did a quick recoil. Tasting it confirmed my impressions. Dominated by a very rich but sweaty and dirty-smelling cheesey/leesy/sour-milk note. Thought it might be reduction but this didn’t blow off and the importer said it tasted just right. Not corked either, so I can only imagine vigorous stirring of dirty lees. DNPIM! Get home and do a search to find that these folks are active lees stirrers. Makes sense to me. Would be interested to taste a clean white from them, but suspect it may be OTT. Mama always said it wasn’t nice to play with one's baton too much. ($57.27 at quarter case lot)
  
• 2001 Bruno Clair Marsannay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
  For whatever reason, I have very limited memories from this wine. Couldn’t have made too much of an impression. What I do remember is that – after the frustration of the Le Moine and the Coutoux – this at least had a little rough mineral on the nose roundish nose and a certain leanness and cut on the palate that made me think I was drinking something that would work with food. Also recall that it lacked some polish and concentration, but that it was “real”. For the money, I’d try another bottle to see, but I’d wait for good results before I gambled on the third. I’m afraid I was looking for a white Burg to like at this point – the winetasting equivalent of beer goggles. ($20.75 at bottle lot)
  
• 2003 Jermann Vinnaioli IGT della Venezia Guilia Were Dreams, now it is just wine! - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, IGT della Venezia Guilia
  Deeply colored and deeply scented, with a range of apricot and floral honey and peach that never points to chardonnay. On the palate, some minerals join in and there is (just barely) enough acid to keep it in balance. Deep, darker than expected, and decadently delightful. I don’t want to like this (or any other chard from Italy), but it is comfortable enough doing its own thing that I can’t help but like it. Dammit, my principles are slipping. At this price, it’s also probably just on the buy side of the line but it’s no bargain. I suspect this would show a little better in a more taut vintage. ($40.20)
  
• 2001 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne
  Slightly mushy-muddy texture to nose obscures basic sweet cherry fruit and some cola-ish notes. Simple and sweetish red fruit flavors on the palate. A little disjointed and not particularly typical of the vintage or the region. Just doesn’t do anything for me. Bad bottle??? ($19.84 at bottle lot)
  
• 2001 Faiveley Mercurey Clos des Myglands - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey
  Now this is fun to drink, mainly due to a surprising combination of density and rough edges with pretty purity. The red fruit flavors wrapped in slightly backward tannins and clean earth are nothing unusual, but there’s just a level of detail and grace hiding inside. Like a pretty young lady in a scratchy lumberjack shirt, it’s worth the initial irritation. Three things – a bottle of ’85 Clos des Cortons; Claude Kolm; and Maureen Nelson – encouraged me to revisit the higher end of the Faiveley range. This will encourage me to revisit the more basic wines. Less uptown and less polished on the exterior than a recent Joblot, but with much more pure gritty-pretty typicity inside. Both are strong examples of the Chalonnais, but the Faiveley is more to my taste. Good price too. ($21.64 at bottle lot)
  
• 2001 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
  Time heals most things, but maybe not green tannins. I like most things about this wine. It has a great sappy depth that makes me think it has the fruit and concentration to age out well. It also has a Savigny stony earthiness that I like a lot. Good pure cherry fruit and a slight hint of beetroot round out the pleasantly deep and foursquare package. This is still very young and needs time to work out the tannins in which the whole package is wrapped. If only those tannins didn’t seem a little rough and angular and green, I’d be a lot more confident. This is one of those wines that I’d be afraid to take a big plunge on based on this style of tasting, but that might really start to sing with a good decant and an evening of air. ($34.27 at bottle lot)
  
• 2000 Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
  Another wine of which I have pretty faint memory. The rough sketch is a wine that was bright and clean for the vintage – not soupy or soylike. Clean and pleasantly sourish cherry fruit combines with some earth and underbrush for a reasonably concentrated mix and a decent finish. To be fair, this was late in the tasting and I was hurrying to get through this table. Worth another try at the price. ($35.18 at bottle lot)
  
• 2001 Domaine Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
  I always admired the dedication and attention to detail of the late Denis Mortet, but his wines were not in my preferred style. Thus, I was a little skeptical when I saw his (previously unknown to me) brother’s name on this bottle. Nice surprise and totally different in style! Not devoid of oak or a little easy red berry fruit, but also very nicely balanced and with a hint of the reserve that makes 2001 so appealing. Earth and a wee bit of spice on the finish add interest. Good density and depth, but remaining impression is of a wine that is both earthy and lissome at the same time. On the gentle side for the appellation and year, this is well enough priced that I think it stands out as one of the good value/good quality producers of Gevrey. ($30.67 at bottle lot)
  
• 2001 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Les Orveaux 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
  Certain producers perform reliably for me according to type. My limited experience with Mongeard Mugneret is that the wines are always in balance and nicely typical, but simply lack that little bit of excitement that makes me want to buy the more spendy grands or better premiers crus. There is reasonable concentration and structure to this wine, though it is a little easy for the vintage. Fruit is a mix of red and dark berry fruit and there are the requisite small hints of nascent spice and flowers. The finish is maybe a little weak, but even that’s okay. This just seems to lack that last bit of punch and depth to make it really exciting. ($51.41 at bottle lot)
  
• 2003 Domaine des Vins de Vienne St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
  Cuilleron/Gaillard/Villard join up in 1996 to form a part-grower/part-negociant business. Seven years later, they make a 2003 that I really like. What have I been missing? Should have tried these long ago. This has a sweet but still bright nose that features delightfully simple but pure crushed raspberries. Take your time and sniff hard and you might also find some earth or some herbs, but why work so hard? This smells great so take a sip. Ah!! Same great fruit but with just enough tannin and even a trace of acid to keep it fresh enough to find the slight meatiness and smoky mineral on the finish without too much work. Didn’t look to see what the ABV is, but it certainly never sticks out. Based on this and a few other wines, St. Joseph may have been the big winner in the Rhone 2003 sweepstakes. Great value too. ($17.18 at half-case lot)
  
• 2003 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  The best 2003 CdP I’ve encountered. While this isn’t exactly restrained or lean, it seems to be a good bit throttled back from its neighbors in this vintage. Has the same seductive red berry fruit that I’m finding in more and more wines from the vintage, but without some of the overly dense dark fruit and raisin/prune notes. Big and slightly chunky, this shows a bit of heat on the finish but less than expected. There’s enough leather and hot, stony earth to keep it interesting. A good effort and the first CdP from the vintage I’d consider buying (and the price is right). I also think I might drink this one young while waiting for 98/99/01 to come around. ($30.71)
  
• 2003 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  A step up in ripeness and down in pleasure, but still not completely out of the game despite its very big and evident alcohol structure. A little less of the pretty red berry (though not absent) and a little more of the dark and jammy berry do a fair job of masking the alcohol, but they also seem to mask any earth/herb/leather that might want to come out. Not bad – in fact a good effort for a vintage I really don’t like much – but not up to the usual standard and not one I’m buying. ($35.80 at half-case lot)
  
• 2001 Bois Pertuis Excellence de Bois Pertuis - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Contrôlée
  Sexy! First blush of beautiful pure essence of cassis and raspberry fruit on nose and palate brings to mind a mature Lafleur. I wish that impression could continue to the end. Very ripe fruit with a big dose of new oak threatens to tire (but never completely does, as the fruit does a pretty good job of hiding the oak). I worry whether there is enough structure to hold it up for very long. At the tariff, however, this is really sexy merlot that I would be glad to serve to right bank/Cali fruit lovers. Bernard Magrez has his place. A lot of fun to drink and unashamed to be what it is. Drink now for its sexy youthful beauty. ($40.59)
  
• 2002 Château Fombrauge - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
  A lot tighter and without the plush crushed fruit from the Bois Pertuis. Built with some acid and a little more tannin to have a bit more extended life. Fruit is mor plum and less berry. Currently dominated by its oak and tannins, I’m not sure this has the mid-palate depth to absorb the oak and round out into something I want to drink – especially with food. Stuck in the middle…too newfangled to please my classic palate and not plush enough for me to serve (and enjoy) like the Bois Pertuis. ($53.34)
  
• 1999 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
  Pretty plummy red in the glass, this also has an inviting ripe plum and leather nose. There is the Argiano barrique in the background, but it never really gets in the way. However, this is in a pretty closed place and not much else shows now. On the palate, this shows its youth with a shot of upfront tannin that then spreads across the cheeks. Nice concentration and a full mid-palate, but the fruit seems a little soft. In the finish, the fruit goes muddy and the oak finally intrudes. I’m not the best at judging young Brunello and this sort of tasting doesn’t do young wines justice, but I don’t think this is going anywhere too exciting. Unfair snap verdict is: Ho-hum and lacking verve. ($36.30)
  
• 2000 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Expressive nose featuring dark brambly, briary fruit and plum. There is also a little zinny pepper, but it never seems to be hot despite the 15% alcohol. In the mouth, sweet but not cloying with a little bit of tannic structure running right down the middle of the palate to keep it interesting. Finishes with a little smoky chocolate spice. Don’t want it often but it can be so very good. At the price, however, there are other things I’d rather drink most days. No need to wait on this. ($38.65)
  
• 2000 Ridge Lytton Springs - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
  (From half bottle) Per the label, this clocks in at 0.2% lower in alcohol than the Pagani. Per the palate, it’s a degree or two higher. That’s a shame because there is a pretty mixture of crushed berries and crunchy red fruit along with a bit of spice and more acid and tannic structure than the Pagani has. I’m tempted to put some away hoping it resolves, but experience and instinct tell me that while oak and even big fruit can integrate with time excessive alcohol does not. This is also peppery, but in a totally different way to the Pagani. ($25.13 per the half bottle)
  

Lots of fun, but take these notes as the limited snapshots they are. If wine is a moving picture, this is only one frame. I can't imagine what it would be like if I tried to taste more.

Posted from CellarTracker

Edited March 6, 2006 by jrufusj (log)