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Florida Jim

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2004 Marquis Phillips, Holly’s Blend:

Mostly verdejo, says the website; and not a bad wine. But is it Martinsancho? Not even remotely in the same league. It starts out clean and crisp when cold but it gets confected fast, soft almost as quickly and eventually muddies out into an over-alcoholic rendition of a grape that Ángel Rodriguez (Martinsancho) has mastered. $12 for this wine or $10 for the real deal; ‘no choice at all.

2002 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Villes Vignes:

A remarkable wine that shows its terroir without edging into herbal scents or flavors and still creates high tones that accent the bright, stony, laser-pure, deep and intense black fruit flavors. From vines in excess of 85 years old; one of the most extraordinary and focused red wines I have tasted. Has decades left in the cellar.

Oh my!

2004 Pazo de Senorans, Albariño:

Half of a bottle put back in the fridge for ten days; still a spicy, gum tree scent and flavor that spreads evenly across the palate and evolves into a spice driven finish. When first opened, delightful; at this stage, damn close. Albariño done right.

2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Fleurie:

Not as strong a showing as the first ten bottles or so but still a fine, balanced Fleurie with miles to go. Time to put these away for awhile, IMO.

And that goes for the 2004 Brun, Cote de Brouilly, too.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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Mea culpa.

I'm told Holly's Blend is verdehlo, the grape of Madeira and that Martinsancho is verdjo, the grape of Rueda. I thought them just different spellings (Portuguese vs. Spanish) of the same word. Hence, the comparison.

Can someone clear this up?

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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